Features of light catching

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16.10.2011 14:55, Ekos

For me, as a person who constantly runs away in hard-to-reach places in autonomous conditions, it was very important to find the most compact sources of energy for night fishing. A generator and a canister of gasoline are not an option in such conditions. Still, when you're carrying a heavy backpack, every gram counts. Therefore, after thinking about this case, going through more than a dozen sites, I made such a scheme, which I quite successfully tested this year.
Components of this scheme:
Main part:
1. Lead-acid sealed battery Control Power CP 1218 12 V, 18 Ah, weight 4.65 kg – one of the lightest in its category
2. Digital autoinverter TopOn TOP-VM100A with 12 to 220 V, power at 100 W, the lightest and most compact in its category, weight 100 g. It has a very high efficiency-under 95%, which has been confirmed in practice.
3. Energy-saving lamps, including UV. As practice shows, the UV savings flies well, quite comparable to the Philips DRV with a power of 160 watts. I usually use a 26W Camelion UV lamp.
4. Wires, extension cords, cartridges.
A full charge of this battery is enough for about 7-8 hours of operation at a load of 26 W (I don't remember more precisely, but you can calculate it).
Therefore, in the conditions of autonomous operation, there is a problem with charging it. I solved this problem by using a solar panel. After browsing the Internet and talking to people, I decided on the TCM-30F (12) solar module produced in Zelenograd. It has a rated power of 30 W ±5% and a rated voltage of 12 V. Load current 2 A. Its weight is only about half a kilogram, but it is quite large-590x 430x 3 mm, which creates certain difficulties during transportation in hiking conditions. I wrap it in plastic (for safety reasons) and carry it in my hands in a large package. You can quickly get used to it. And, more importantly, this solar panel is completely sealed (including the terminal box). That is, it is not afraid of moisture, including rain. Although I play it safe, and during even a fine drizzle I bring it into the room (if, of course, I am nearby).
Also, when charging the accumulator with a solar panel, it is strongly recommended to use a solar charge controller in order to avoid failure of the accumulator due to overcharging. I use a Morningstar SHS-6 solar controller rated for up to 6A amperage. It has a mass of only 113 g.
As a result, the whole system generally proved to be very useful when fishing for light on long expeditions in remote mountainous areas, where you can't even get close by car, where there are no power sources, and it is extremely difficult to carry a generator and gasoline. The whole system is quite compact and weighs about 6 kg.
For one good, sunny day, the solar battery charges the battery by 60-70 %. This is enough for 4 – 5 hours of fishing (I usually catch 3-4 hours every night). But there is a drawback - on cloudy and cloudy days, the charge intensity drops by 2 or even three times. Therefore, it is always desirable to have some, at least a small, charge reserve in the accumulator in case of bad weather. Yes, and ONLY lead-acid batteries made using AGM or GEL technologies are recommended for a solar battery.
Another disadvantage of the system is its relative high cost. All this cost me, offhand, about 15 thousand rubles.
There were no failures in this system, in any of its components, even in wet weather. I was afraid that the inverter might have failed due to the frenzied humidity, but it never did.

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01.12.2011 10:05, Garricos

Good evening! Please tell us in more detail-what was the continuation of your experience with this lamp? Is it worth it? (This means exactly as an expedition option in the absence of a generator, car, etc.)?
Or did you find something different and more effective?
Thank you in advance.

Hello! Apologies for the long answer. On this lamp, I have a rather contradictory opinion - on the one hand, the drl is much more efficient in terms of variety and quantity, and on the other hand, something unusual sometimes flies to this lamp that does not fly to others. In terms of the expedition option , what do you mean if you don't have a generator? It is also electric at 220V, or did you mean a gas lamp? About the gas station, I will say that this is not an option - more mosquitoes are flying at it).

There was another option with an uninterruptible power supply, but so far I haven't brought it to mind. But in general, I will say that the lamp shines from it for about 35 minutes. As a hiking option, it is suitable only for short sorties, taking into account the fact that you will take a couple of such batteries, before charging them.

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01.12.2011 23:32, Hierophis

Regarding LEDs - the idea is good, especially in terms of the fact that super-bright LEDs are now available in normal access, in theory such a 10W LED(or assembly) will give a brightness of approx. 1000Lm, and there are options with even greater luminosity at the same power.
According to Wikipedia, this is slightly brighter than the housekeeper at 15W. And at the same time, you don't need a converter either.
From a 6V 4.5 A/h lead battery, in theory, it should shine for at least 2.5 hours, but since the voltage of such LEDs is judging by those. If the battery is 12-14V, then you will need two batteries, and this is already approx. 1.5 kg only batteries, but 5 hours of light at least.. but if you have extra finances, you can buy lithium batteries, in theory it should be more compact.
And butterflies fly not only on UV, and I tried to catch on a split flask from DRL400, I didn't like it - almost nothing flies, the light burns my eyes, and there is practically no visible light, so it's very hard to see who arrived.
The usual 38W housekeeper was much better.

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02.12.2011 11:51, Alexander73

Hello! Apologies for the long answer. On this lamp, I have a rather contradictory opinion - on the one hand, the drl is much more efficient in terms of variety and quantity, and on the other hand, something unusual sometimes flies to this lamp that does not fly to others. In terms of the expedition option , what do you mean if you don't have a generator? It is also electric at 220V, or did you mean a gas lamp? About the gas station, I will say that this is not an option - more mosquitoes are flying at it).

There was another option with an uninterruptible power supply, but so far I haven't brought it to mind. But in general, I will say that the lamp shines from it for about 35 minutes. As a hiking option, it is suitable only for short-term outings, given that you will take a couple of such batteries, having previously charged them.

I was interested in this particular Repti Glo terrarium compact/tube, and by the expedition option I meant the 12V 7ah battery + inverter (and, of course, the lamp, screen)
It is not far forays from the dacha to the forest for 2-3 kilometers (from the dacha)
(according to my calculations, the 15W tube should burn from the battery for 2-3 hours)

02.12.2011 17:24, mikee

LEDs have a significant drawback - a narrow viewing angle/glow. That is, most insects will jump out of the beam or just cross it and fly past.
However, last summer, when I spent the night in the mountains, butterflies flew to my cheap head lamp. But it wasn't the lantern, it was the fact that it was just a nice day last night.

The cone of the light beam is usually 60 or 120 degrees. Powerful LEDs are quite heated, which reduces their reliability and lifetime. Yes, and the efficiency of the light is greatly reduced. And since they are usually run in pulse mode, you also need a converter from DC to AC (square wave with a duty cycle of 1:10) voltage. Otherwise, the headlamps will not eat in a childish

way.This is exactly how they work.

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02.12.2011 23:29, DanMar

1 an ordinary low-power LED from Chinese flashlights eats about three volts and the power is 20 milliamps. It is possible to make a large number of these LEDs and ordinary batteries, for example, if 8 AA batteries: 4 rows in parallel, 2 batteries in series and 40 low-power LEDs. If the LEDs are connected in parallel, the total current is 20mA x 40 = 800mA. The capacity of the AA battery, as far as I understand, is about 1500mA x hour, then 4 x 1500mAh = 6Ah.
How long this damn thing will work, we get: 6000 mAh / 800mA = 7.5 hours (units(amps) cross it out accordingly). True, I don't know how bright this thing will shine , but it should be good, but it's worth remembering that in reality the glow time will be less, plus when the battery voltage drops, the LEDs will shine poorly or stop altogether, since they no longer shine at 1.5 V. This is just a calculation, I'm thinking of installing such a bicycle light.

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02.12.2011 23:48, Hierophis

Oh, good research

Now knowing the current, you can count different options.
Of course, these diodes do not shine like the ones I wrote about above, but in general, let's just say that the "all or nothing" principle is not very good to apply here, I think sometimes something is better than nothing at all. By the way, when I was riding a bicycle, scoops flew on an ordinary incandescent light bulb dim in the headlight so that sometimes it was difficult to go, so as not to swallow the scoop, but then glanvoe-darkness around.
But it is better not to take a battery, but a battery, for fishing on a sortie, in theory, LI-ion and similar ones are best, that is, with smaller dimensions with a larger capacity, such a battery is the size of a mobile phone up to 1.5 A/h and it seems even more(but the cost is acc. growing)at a voltage of 3.3 V-in theory, all these 40 diodes from one such battery will burn for almost 2 hours! And these diodes are not expensive like, about 2 UAH?

03.12.2011 14:54, okoem

okoem, well, you can make some of the diodes shine on the fabric, and some into the distance, because even at a narrow angle, the coverage of the area is still quite large, and from the fabric in general, the maximum scattering+ darkness

I've tried pointing it at the fabric. Efficiency plummets. While the flashlight is on your forehead, they fly. I immediately point it at the fabric - they don't fly.
Ideally, you should make a ball (or cylinder), "pasted" with LEDs, so that the glow is in all directions.
What concerns the glow time, power - choose the LED model, look at the brightness of the glow and calculate the number of diodes corresponding to the glow of some "standard" lamp. From the number of diodes we calculate the power consumption, from the power we calculate the glow time on a specific battery. Something like that...

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03.12.2011 16:18, Hierophis

So probably the uninterruptible power supply has very large losses when acquiring DC to AC voltage.
By the way, with energy-saving light bulbs and in general with modern EPRA from which lumens are lit. lamps have one trick - in them, alternating current from the network is first converted to direct, and then by a built-in inverter to high-frequency alternating.
Thus, the ESR circuit itself is essentially powered by direct current, and the inverter for its operation is needed only to increase the voltage. In theory, if you apply a constant 220V to such a light bulb, it will also light up.
Here the question arises-what is the minimum voltage value from which the generator will start in the EPRA?

You can also use a multiplier instead of a transformer to increase the voltage, the voltage is not very high.