Features of light catching

Everything can be, but even if the battery is to blame - all the same, the uninterruptible power supply is so heavy that it is pointless to drag it, it is much better to assemble a low-power inverter separately!

It will be very long, because if the capacity of the AAA battery is approx. 1A, then this is 100W per hour.

The 25-watt bulb will last for 4 hours. But this is the ideal case. But in reality, this will not be the case at all.Since it will not work in normal mode, the light output will be much less. Thus, as a very, very tentative option, there will be 10 Watts of "light" for 4 hours. But most likely it will be even less, because working at a current equal to a quarter of the capacity, acc. it won't be able to fully release its charge.
IMHO, to get a good efficiency, you need to collect a 300 - 320 Volt battery and connect a light bulb of about 10 Watts to it, no more.

Well, yes, such a kind of battery, as Alexander posted. And so measured a couple of times with a full charge-35 minutes. Then they turned on the usual energy-saving 25 W-also.
Maybe some of it is really spent on conversion.

Some part of it is necessarily spent on conversion, but there is no way to do it without it. And the short operating time is most likely due to the fact that the battery was completely discharged before that. Such an acc. strongly (or very strongly) loses capacity even if it is completely new, not to mention the bu.

Gentlemen, let's take a little look at LEDs and, a little, lamps.
1. First, about ultraviolet light and ultraviolet LEDs. Here is the spectrum of mercury vapors in pricked DRL, which many of us (and I) recognize as the most effective for our entomological purposes. The DRL lamp refers to high-pressure lamps, i.e. you need to look at the third column.
Please note that the wavelength range for ultraviolet light is 230-373 nm and that the proportion of ultraviolet light in the radiation power exceeds 50%.

But the so-called ultraviolet diodes available to ordinary mortals have the main radiation spectrum in the range of 385-420 nm, which is not even ultraviolet, but generally blue/purple visible color (http://www.microelectronica.ru/hb/hb_leds_uv.html, http://www.edison-opto.ru/products/edison/uv.php, http://www.e-neon.ru/catalog/id/2059267). At the same time, the light output of LEDs on average is 15-30 lumens/watt, and for DRL-more than 60.
So, it is not at all a fact that LEDs will be, at least, comparable in fishing efficiency compared to DRL.
2. secondly, we will calculate the energy efficiency of LEDs correctly. The power of available LEDs is 1W, which means that the equivalent of DRL-250 in terms of electrical power is 250 diodes. At the same time, taking into account half the light output (see above), you need 500 LEDs for the same light intensity (without taking into account the spectrum). But the mode of operation of the LEDs is pulsed with a duty cycle of 0.25. This means that on average 500 diodes will consume 1/4 of the rated power, i.e. 125 watts. It turns out that LEDs are twice as efficient in terms of energy. At the same time, you should keep in mind:
- the price of LEDs;
- the need for cooling radiators for LEDs. You can calculate the weight of 500 diodes and the dimensions of the assembly...

I hope I didn't make a mistake in my calculations anywhere

Well, it seems that no one says that LEDs will replace this legendary DRL, personally, I choose a possible amateur monitor lizard, if suddenly there is an opportunity to catch the light at night, which is also questionable. In principle, there are two options - a housekeeper and/or an inverter or a self-made multiplier with a 6V/4.5 A/h battery or a 200V battery at least, but the second option is expensive for me(the cost of such a battery in the north will be under 300 UAH at least, LEDs are good of course, but there is a lot of fuss and cost.

And UV by the way should almost not pass through the unbroken DRL

The operating time of the appliance from the inverter connected to the battery depends on the power consumption of the appliance, the battery capacity and the efficiency of the inverter and is calculated by the formula:

T=12 * C*EFFICIENCY/P,

where T is the operating time (in hours),
12 is the battery voltage (in volts),
C is the battery capacity (in Ah),
P is the load power (in W),
and EFFICIENCY is the efficiency of the inverter (specified in the technical specifications, from 0.85 to 0.95 depending on the quality of the inverter).

For a 26W lamp, a 7Ah battery and an efficiency of 0.9, the operating time will be 2.9 hours. In practice-less, because the battery, generally speaking, also has its own efficiency (usually take 0.8)

Well, it seems that no one says that LEDs will replace this legendary DRL, personally, I choose a possible amateur monitor lizard, if suddenly there is an opportunity to catch the light at night, which is also questionable. In principle, there are two options - a housekeeper and/or an inverter or a self-made multiplier with a 6V/4.5 A/h battery or a 200V battery at least, but the second option is expensive for me(the cost of such a battery in the north will be under 300 UAH at least, LEDs are good of course, but there is a lot of fuss and cost.

And UV by the way should almost not pass through an unbroken DRL

It does not pass (almost), because ordinary glass and a phosphor layer absorb UV. Therefore it flies worse

The DRL lamp refers to high-pressure lamps, i.e. you need to look at the third column.

Mikhail, what kind of medium-and low-pressure lamps are these? Black ligh UV tubes?

Mikhail, what kind of medium-and low-pressure lamps are these? Black ligh UV tubes?

http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%F2%F3%F2%...%EB%E0%EC%EF%E0
But Wikipedia doesn't know anything about average pressure. You know, everything is relative-low, medium, high, ultra-high... The term "black light" itself is not technical, but rather commercial, because such lamps come in a variety of designs. For example, this one: http://www.music-expert.ru/index.php?productID=117582 and this one: http://www.1glass.ru/index.php?productID=881 obviously, they can't be the same in design and operation..

But the mode of operation of the LEDs is pulsed with a duty cycle of 0.25.

By the way, an interesting point - how will insects perceive pulsed light? According to my observations, it flies quite well on a tubular LDS. Somewhere it was written that it flickers with a frequency of 100 Hz (is this flicker not extinguished by phosphor?)
Are they attracted to flickering or just the spectrum?

By the way, an interesting point - how will insects perceive pulsed light? According to my observations, it flies quite well on a tubular LDS. Somewhere it was written that it flickers with a frequency of 100 Hz (is this flicker not extinguished by phosphor?)
Are they attracted to flickering or just the spectrum?

A horseradish knows how it affects a Person does not care at a frequency greater than 50 Hz. Pulse mode allows you to increase, if necessary, the current (one and a half times) for greater brightness due to the cooling cycle and greatly reduce consumption. Actually, all sorts of diode flashlights due to this work so long from finger batteries. If you open it, you will see a simple pulse inverter (generator).
Flickering in phosphor lamps is extinguished, among other things, due to the afterglow of phosphor.

What else can I say, there are LEDs "indicator" and "powerful"("super-bright"),
So the indicator LEDs, which in Chinese flashlights(not all) have a voltage of about three volts and a consumption of ~20mA, and the super-bright ones at the same voltage - 300mA, say that they are at 700mA, power of 1W, 3W and 7W. But what is the light output-? Plus, their cost is rather big, indicator ones sell for 2.50 hryvnia, and powerful ones on the radio market tried to sell me for as much as 20 hryvnia!
For more information, follow these links:
http://led22.ru/ledstat/3HP/3HP.html As far as I remember, the site also presents prices and light characteristics, temperature, etc. There are also LED strips for 12 volts, perhaps they can also be used..

As I already wrote, insects fly to diodes. On the "warhead" of the former installation, I had 6 diodes mounted at my disposal: 3 ordinary light and 3 ultraviolet, and they could be turned on in different combinations. Unfortunately, I haven't found any photos yet.If I do, I'll post them.

Nothing it is not extinguished in full, it is very difficult when the lum is lit. throttle lamps, especially when there is no natural light illumination, are hard for me to stand. And even this "ratsukha" with a capacitor for phase shift in two-lamp lamps does not help much. In modern EPRA, the frequency is very high, so it doesn't flicker.

But a flashlight of 500 INDICATOR LEDs, you can see how much it shines. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkkU0UO3sek

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us...g/titan-lantern
250 lumens LED flashlight, the description states 15 hours of operation...

DanMar, well, this is already quite expensive, what is the upper option that is the lower one. It is possible that buying a 10W super-bright diode will be more profitable, since in order to gain the same brightness of their usual diodes for flashlights, they may need a lot of them.

I have such a question. If I connect the DRL 400 via a 500W incandescent light bulb, how many watts of power will be consumed? 900, 500 or 400?

I have such a question. If I connect the DRL 400 via a 500W incandescent light bulb, how many watts of power will be consumed? 900, 500 or 400?

IMHO, if the lamp limits the current to more than it should be in the normal operation mode of the DRL, then less than 400 watts of energy will be consumed. If this is not enough, then more than 400 watts of power will be consumed, and the DRL will quickly become unusable due to overload.
To accurately answer your question, you must first take an ammeter and measure the current.

I have such a question. If I connect the DRL 400 via a 500W incandescent light bulb, how many watts of power will be consumed? 900, 500 or 400?

The question is not simple. The physics of this case is something like this:
1. in the burning DRL there is a plasma, the electrical resistance of which is close to zero;
2. the current in the DRL is limited in normal mode by a series-connected choke and posistors built into the lamp (one or two in different designs). In practice (tested on DRL-250), the throttle resistance is approximately equal to the resistance of the lamp (posistors), i.e. on the lamp we have a steady-state voltage of about 110-120V3
. You replace the throttle with an incandescent lamp, ideally its resistance should be equal to the resistance of the standard throttle. In this case, the power consumed by the system will be exactly equal to the standard version (this is the answer to the question). In practice, the exact resistance of the lamp can not be selected, especially given the fact that its resistance decreases depending on the temperature, which, in turn, directly depends on the external temperature and the current flowing. And the DRL will work either with a perekal (service life decreases), or poorly ignited;
4. since in both cases we have a sequential switching on of the ballast (throttle or incandescent lamp), the current in it is defined as the voltage divided by the sum of the resistances and, if the DRL is in normal mode, then its specified power (160, 250, 400 W) refers to the entire system as a whole. It is lit with an overshoot, the current and power consumption are higher.
5. There is some significant difference in the" quality " of power consumption for the incandescent and throttle versions. In the first case, we have a purely reactive load and power is the product of current and voltage (P=U*I). In the second case - active-reactive power, because the choke shifts the phase of the current relative to the voltage phase by 90 degrees, while the current is multiplied by the voltage and by the cosine of the phase shift angle (P=U*I*cos). In this case, the current increases inversely proportional to this cosine (I=P/(U*cos). But it is the current that measures your meter and, similarly, the generator loads more strongly. The situation is even worse for generators with digital conversion, because their output voltage is not quite sinusoidal. By the way, DRL manufacturers recommend turning on the throttle lamp in parallel to the system (up to the throttle, right at the outlet of the outlet!) the capacitor. The capacitance shifts the phase of the current by -90 degrees, compensating for the phase shift with a choke. Thus, the value of your win will be equal to the value of the cosine of the compensated phase shift. For those who are interested, I would like to inform you that for the DRL-250 the capacity is 25 UF, for the DRL-400 - 37 UF. Capacitors need nonpolar (electrolytic explode!) and high-voltage ones (>250V). Unfortunately, they are quite large and heavy.
6. by the way, from paragraph 2 there is an interesting conclusion, but not tested by me in practice, that if you power the DRL-ki from a voltage of 110-120V, then you can do without a throttle at all. And native Japanese generators, common on DV, just have such a voltage... And you don't have to think about cosine losses. Would you like to try it?

All of this is a simplification of the real situation, and a number of factors and features of specific electrical networks are not taken into account.

I generally always turned on the DRL through the capacitor only, for the power of 100W 30mkf was enough for me. No overheating, buzzing, or anything else
But if the lamp is connected to 110V in a straight line, then I think it will either not light up, and if it does, it will explode!

I generally always turned on the DRL through the capacitor only, for the power of 100W 30mkf was enough for me. No overheating, buzzing, or anything else
But if the lamp is connected to 110V in a straight line, then I think it will either not light up, and if it does, it will explode!

In the DRL, there is nothing to explode, except for posistors that limit the current. The vnktri quartz burner electrodes may also burn. What does it matter how 110V appears on the DRL, directly or after the throttle?

mikee, are you sure that there are posistors in the power circuit? Posistors are worth mine on fire. I personally saw how a mercury flask explodes if you apply 220 to it on a straight line, in addition, I now have a disassembled flask from the DRL - there are posistors only in the ignition circuit.
The choke limits the current, you yourself wrote that the resistance of the plasma is almost zero, so... there will be bangs

Here is the DRL diagram



This post was edited by Hierophis - 06.12.2011 00: 29

mikee, are you sure that there are posistors in the power circuit? Posistors are worth mine on fire. I personally saw how a mercury flask explodes if you apply 220 to it on a straight line, in addition, I now have a disassembled flask from the DRL - there are posistors only in the ignition circuit.
The choke limits the current, you yourself wrote that the resistance of the plasma is almost zero, so... there will be bangs

Here is the DRL diagram

You're right. And you can't turn on the lamp directly at 110.

Hello everyone!!!
1000 years did not go to the forum... Did not write… I didn't read it...
But not idle...
ugh!!! Accumulated!!!!

After reading "lost time", I got the feeling that we are reinventing the wheel here!
Or maybe in the question of portability, types of lamps, etc., we should start from what has already been created in other countries, go further, and not create artisanal analogues??? =)))
Lighting:
As a rule, three countries act as generators of ideas in the production of so-called Moth Traps, from the designs of which we can feed on ideas:
- USA
-UK
-Czech
Republic 1) It's no secret that the entire trio respects the so-called Mercury Vapour Bulb (hereinafter referred to as MVB)… You will say – "Well DRL'ka and what???" ... And the fact that in the catalogs of such companies as Philips and OSRAM 5-10 variants of this very MVB are offered, which in turn can be the reason for different results, for people who have bought a light bulb, without unnecessary problems named by the seller DRL or DRV… I also note that Philips and OSRAM, as I understand from their catalogs, are working just to reduce UV radiation in this type of lamp, offering new compositions of glasses and phosphors, which is clearly not in our favor… Returning to the study of the descriptions offered on the sites of ent. I didn't find any specific designations for the models included in the MVB lamp kit ... The question involuntarily arises - do I catch/ do you catch???

Pictures:

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- By the way, judging by the many videos from Youtube, using lamps (most likely) with hard UV radiation, the Americans use such a carrier directed at the screen:

Pictures:

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2) All three countries also use fluorescent tubes in their traps in combination with batteries and generators based on the power of the equipment… As a rule, this preference is given to such tubes and their combinations as ACTINIC BULB and BLACKLIGHT / BLACKLIGHT BLUE BULB.

* ACTINIC BULB – Used in marine aquariums, there are many versions:

Pictures:

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* BLACKLIGHT / BLACKLIGHT BLUE BULB-UV long-wave lamps (usually a club theme) (There are also interesting offers of 12v-halogen for cars in this spectrum, which is convenient for battery traps):

Pictures:

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- The offer of the Czechs, with their 8-watt farts on a huge screen for a lot of money, honestly did not inspire me with confidence… Although they gave us something to think about later…

3) The problem of the generator on the hump, apparently worries not only us, dear friends!
On the website http://www.wwb.co.uk A portable LED trap of original design is being sold!!! (What kind of diodes-respectively XS):

Pictures:

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- There are also artisanal options:
* There is a custom option… More on it later…

Pictures:

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The professor came out of the shadows)))) Everyone was drawn to the light,to knowledge.

Now a little bit about your own! =)))
I'll try to solve several problems at once:
1) How to make the screen
2) Make it easier to install the screen
3) The lamp is too dim
4) Reduce the overall weight of the screen
5) Wash / Do not erase the screen
and bring it to your fair trial!

-I chose the four-way scheme offered on the site for myself http://www.entosphinx.cz by slightly modifying it to suit your needs… When assembling, I used aluminum racks for awnings and tents that are freely available in tour equipment stores. (Photos can't be uploaded yet… Schematic drawing below)
I admit that such a screen design is difficult in the initial assembly, but the effort spent is compensated "in the field":
- Installation in any convenient place, without partners and auxiliary items;
- 360-degree coverage:
- Compact when assembled;
Screen material:
Lyrical digression: If you look down at your feet, you can immediately see that this trap, and not only it, produces a light spot on the ground that dims as you move away from the installation. This working area of lighting, I conditionally divide for myself into 3 subzones:
1) "Useful" (including a well – lit lower screen, as well as 2-3 meters around it) - this area is well-lit, convenient for collecting, which is basically what it is intended for.
2) "Intermediate" (Zone that is sufficiently lit) - an area that is still convenient for collecting material, without additional restrictions. lighting conditions.
3) "Parasitic" (poorly lit area, border of light and shadow, dense vegetation, etc.) – The area is problematic for collecting, but very popular among many nocturnal species.
To achieve greater compactness of the above-described areas, to facilitate the collection process, it is possible by reducing the brightness of the lighting, thereby reducing the range/visibility of the installation itself… I offer my compromise on how to make the screen more visible without increasing the wattage of the lamp:
- Once before going to bed, I was smoking on the balcony (10th floor), and I noticed that out of the windows of the surrounding houses with the lights on, the curtained windows were more noticeable from a distance… An association with the trap screen flashed through my head...
- Later, picking up the fragments of a broken DRL flask, I was visited by the idea of how to make the screen reflect UV more strongly from itself...
It is necessary to combine the screen cloth material with phosphor!
And there is such a possibility! - - http://luminofor.ru/index.php/cat/c67_Tkani-i-setki.html
I've always used synthetic grids as a vertical screen, which gives me a few advantages:
1) Weight loss.
2) Ease of collection (Seen through)
3) Easy to wash / dry.
I chose this option for myself - http://luminofor.ru/product_info.php/info/...i---1-m-p-.html
I also advise you to use this material together with BlackLight lamps for a brighter glow...
And about "is it worth erasing the screen cloth":
Actually, it's better not to get dirty… But if necessary, DEFINITELY WASH!!! The opinion that after washing, the fabric will reflect UV worse is outdated (If we are not talking about fabrics with phosphor)... How outdated is the bleach "Whiteness", which really negatively affects the properties and durability of the fabric... Using modern bleachers and powders, the ability of the fabric to reflect UV increases, because UV reflection is one of the principles of modern laundry products (The fabric looks cleaner "glows")…

Pictures:

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There are a couple of considerations about LED...
A couple of weeks ago, I was traveling on the Moscow – Mozhaisk express train, in the car of which this miracle was sold! (see below)
1) Change the standard diodes to UV;
2) We screw it into a standard cartridge;
3) Charge the battery;
4) Run to check its performance...
I haven't tried it myself… This is still only a theory…

Pictures:

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Also, under the LED trap, you can convert a special lamp to UV LED...
As I understand it, these lights are used to search for scorpions in the dark (Scorpions glow in ultraviolet light)

Pictures:

file_5__1_.jpg — (105.96к)

There is another stupid idea with diodes...
1) We take a transparent plastic tube (there is all this in the Chip and Dip store) with an internal diameter equal to the diameter of the pre-prepared LEDs;
2) Using a syringe, fill the tube with a phosphor solution in distilled water;
3) Insert the LEDs from both ends of the tube;
4) Connect the power supply!
It should be something like a fluorescent tube…

Pictures:

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This means that the theory is theoretical, but in practice it looks like this-LEDs of the type that we have in flashlights cost from 2 to 3 UAH, there are narrow-directional and wide-directional, and UV including (as for currency detectors), there are different colors, the prices are the same, the price depends mainly on the brightness, and I asked about powerful LEDs - there is no one on the market, the store sold a single-wire blue color for 25 UAH, when I asked about more powerful ones and the possibility of ordering them, they answered that they say order directly from the Internet, since everyone wants to order, and when they find out the price they don't want to

I bought an LED with a brightness of 30 candellas, for 3 UAH, white. Its rated power is 3.3 V 70mA. By the way, based on these characteristics, 1 W on such diodes will cost 15 UAH, but I don't know how it will be comparable in brightness..

There is also an idea to combine narrow-directional and wide-directional diodes..

This means that the theory is theoretical, but in practice it looks like this-LEDs of the type that we have in flashlights cost from 2 to 3 UAH, there are narrow-directional and wide-directional, and UV including (as for currency detectors), there are different colors, the prices are the same, the price depends mainly on the brightness, and I asked about powerful LEDs - there is no one on the market, the store sold a single-wire blue color for 25 UAH, when I asked about more powerful ones and the possibility of ordering them, they answered that they say order directly from the Internet, since everyone wants to order, and when they find out the price they don't want to

I bought an LED with a brightness of 30 candellas, for 3 UAH, white. Its rated power is 3.3 V 70mA. By the way, based on these characteristics, 1 W on such diodes will cost 15 UAH, but I don't know how it will be comparable in brightness..

There is also an idea to combine narrow-directional and wide-directional diodes..

Theory is theory, but if you want to catch something and then not regret the aimlessly lived years, then take a pricked DRL... Everything else is palliative care. IMHO

Would you also recommend that you buy an outlet for it in the kit
As in the joke-
Chukchi bought a refrigerator in the store. He is asked with bewilderment - why do you need a refrigerator - you always have frosts there?
Chukchi is not a fool, Chukchi will warm up in the refrigerator!
All right, but you don't have electricity there, do you??
Chukchi is not a fool, Chukchi and bought a socket!

Would you also recommend that you buy an outlet for it in the kit
As in the joke-
Chukchi bought a refrigerator in the store. He is asked with bewilderment - why do you need a refrigerator - you always have frosts there?
Chukchi is not a fool, Chukchi will warm up in the refrigerator!
All right, but you don't have electricity there, do you??
Chukchi is not a fool, Chukchi and bought a socket!

He who has ears, let him hear...

And what does the ears have to do with it?
It's just that we've been discussing mostly portable light sources and solutions without using a generator recently. DRL can only be used with the generator.

...30 candellas, for 3 UAH... What's the angle? Just wondering...