Features of light catching

Dear forum participants,
please tell me what kind of throttle is needed for this DRL:
http://www.tehdizain.ru/lampa_philips_hpl_n_250w-si535.html -

throttle for independent-on DRL lamps
or for built-in DRL lamps?

Two types of chokes:
http://www.secoin.ru/bd/drossel/drossel3.html#1

Thank you in advance!

Both are suitable. It is better to take those that are easier, namely "for built-in DRL lamps".

Thank you very much!

Both are suitable. It is better to take those that are easier, namely "for built-in DRL lamps".

The answer depends on the conditions of use of the lamp. The built-in throttle does not have protection from moisture and touching live parts, so it is easier. But when used outdoors and out of shelter from precipitation, it is deadly.

This post was edited by mikee - 21.01.2012 20: 05

The answer depends on the conditions of use of the lamp. The built-in throttle does not have protection from moisture and touching live parts, so it is easier. But when used outdoors and out of shelter from precipitation, it is deadly.

It seems like the water contained in the sediments is distilled, and therefore practically does not conduct current.

It seems like the water contained in the sediments is distilled, and therefore practically does not conduct current.

Well, first of all, have you ever heard of acid rain? This is to the question of distillate from the sky. Secondly, the throttle will not hang in the air, but will lie on the ground or something similar, where the water is even further from distilled. Yes, actually, the answer is already contained in the very existence of choke execution for embedded and independent applications. In practice, a welding transformer (~36V) in wet weather "hits" the current even if you touch it with your hand in rubber boots. And we have 220...

If I know about acid rain, then such extremes are not taken into account, because with such rains the fishing itself loses its meaning. The throttle, of course, does not need to be put in a puddle and you do not need to walk on it with rubber boots either.

Of course, a closed throttle is relatively safer, but you have to pay twice as much weight and almost twice as much money for this.

If I know about acid rain, then such extremes are not taken into account, because with such rains the fishing itself loses its meaning. The throttle, of course, does not need to be put in a puddle and you do not need to walk on it with rubber boots either.

We are talking about the fact that far from pure H2O falls from the sky in any case, acid rain is only an extreme special case. Yes, and chemically pure water is still a conductor (H+ and OH -).

Bad Den, and what kind of throttle do you use, independent or built-in switching?

Bad Den, and what kind of throttle do you use, independent or built-in switching?

I use both, but open only in stationary conditions (in the country), either placing it under the roof, or covering it with a plastic hood. Closed (independent) is distinguished by a cover with rubber seals that covers the terminals, and the body is filled with stearin. The weights do not differ by a factor of 2. And once again-using an open throttle in nature without special safety measures is deadly!

Bad Den, and what kind of throttle do you use, independent or built-in switching?

Independent. By the way, if the built-in one is short, then at least you will have to buy a new one - all savings are covered by vezika

This post was edited by Bad Den - 22.01.2012 00: 56

Independent. By the way, if the built-in one is short, then at least you will have to buy a new one - all savings are covered by vezika

Sorry for the stupid question in the forum
I just misunderstood the throttle specifications - I was confused by the wording "for built-in DRL lamps" - I thought with lack of sleep that this was a characteristic of lamps
But in fact - the throttle, of course. And then everything is clear
Of course, I'll take a safer one.

LED Cree XML (Cree XM-L) 10W (4000K in theory) and energy-saving lamp 15Watt. The LED runs on 3AA batteries in "max mode".
Important! In the photo, the light scattering angle from the LED (120 degrees) is wide, but the lamp has a focused one! The driver swore at the batteries that were discharged.
This is like a version of the lamp =)

Pictures:

IMG_9878.JPG — (599.41к)


IMG_9879.JPG — (636.84к)

LED Cree XML (Cree XM-L) 10W (4000K in theory) and energy-saving lamp 15Watt. The LED runs on 3AA batteries in "max mode".
Important! In the photo, the light scattering angle from the LED (120 degrees) is wide, but the lamp has a focused one! The driver swore at the batteries that were discharged.
This is like a version of the lamp =)

I don't know what's going on.".. So what is the novelty of the idea here?

... LED, as I understand it, as an additional lighting for night fishing, or is it planned that the LED will be a source for attracting insects?
If I'm not mistaken,LEDs do not emit ultraviolet light...or does something fly to the diodes too? ...

Actually, it's flying. In my Moscow region, it often even flew to the head lamp, and next to other light sources behind the fence.

I'm seriously thinking about how, when I go hiking with a backpack, I can try to catch a "Bright Beam" type LED light (so that the maximum lighting angle is) and a few UV tubes (4 W) on batteries-like these: http://www.foroffice.ru/products/description/1351.html
In principle, in the absence of light sources nearby, it seems to me that something can fly in.

The fact is that the LED runs on three AA batteries for up to an hour stably, in max. mode! You can parallelize them three by three even more and achieve a very long work, and it has a very decent brightness, for small lenses or as a miniature lamp is very suitable.

Is this LED very hot? In theory, such diodes have a significant lack of heating, in summer when it is +27 at night, and there are three of them in the case.. At least put the fan on.

You can parallelize them in threes even more

Are you sure that if you parallelize two acc., then the element with a lower voltage will not hook the element with a higher voltage?

Why should there be different voltages? If you follow the main rule - when picking a battery, take batteries of the same capacity, and charge them synchronously, then there are no special restrictions on the type of connection.
But a parallel connection is generally more likely to fail.

And I wonder-do daytime butterflies fly to the light of such lamps at night???If they're flying, what are they?

250 W non-gold-megera, burdock, turnip (summer 2011, Sevastopol)

Why should there be different voltages?

Because we are dealing with real akumms. not with perfect ones.
Just now I measured my acc. extracted from the camera-the difference between the elements is up to 0.048 Volts, the short-circuit current of two parallel-connected elements is respectively 0.1 Amperes.

Because we are dealing with real akumms. not with perfect ones.
Just now I measured my acc. extracted from the camera-the difference between the elements is up to 0.048 Volts, the short-circuit current of two parallel-connected elements is correspondingly 0.1 amperes.

It's okay, the voltage on parallel batteries will always be the same. Of course, the best one (with the maximum voltage) will feed the rest. Unavoidable losses.

That's what I meant.

Pictures:

ledprj.JPG — (65.58к)

It's okay, the voltage on parallel batteries will always be the same. Of course, the best one (with the maximum voltage) will feed the rest. Unavoidable losses.

And why do we need losses from scratch? We want to get the most cost-effective offline source, don't we?

That's what I meant.

As I have already said, to avoid unnecessary losses due to voltage differences, it is better to disconnect your parallel circuits.

I read the topic interestingly.I want to share my observations.Caught at night and in the forest and in the steppe.If the screen has one UV lamp, well, it's not very old, but if it additionally included an energy-saving 30 W lamp, it was excellent .There were days when there was no room on the screen for sitting butterflies. Although the daytime ones didn't arrive. The power supply is naturally from the generator, I had to buy a car to it, Because the trips are far away already. Pb

okoem, come on, what kind of losses are there, there with such a current and voltage, power is released - in nanowatts
With a parallel connection, there is another "ambush" - if the battery suddenly shorts out, it can explode, boil, there will be a reflow, in general, something bad can happen. Although in general this is typical for lead-acid batteries, which have such a thing, I myself have encountered this.

DanMar, in general, the more batteries are used, the more often any "garbage" occurs, and it does not depend on the type of connection, I have 4 nickel metal hybrid batteries in my camera))), so, it was like this: one battery turns out to be a "weak link", and everything sits down because of it, and the whole trouble is that, in principle, it is not necessary to replace it with a new one. Direct Accelerated Obsolescence conspiracy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330609662941
1w LEDs 10 pcs, 30 cents per piece. Almost like indicators on the radio market, only the stream is ten times larger! I think it's best to make a trap on them.

For the new year, I bought a garland of 60 blue LEDs with a solar battery from the Chinese
and hung it on a pine tree in the yard. The third month plows like clockwork. On as it gets dark and lights up until 6am.
When it gets warmer, I'll see if any animals arrive or not. Instead of LEDs, you can use a different light source with a suitable range . For expeditions, I think the very thing, especially the price is only $ 10-20 .

My doubts are gnawing at me...

To protect the screen (3m) and the "chandelier" from rain, I decided to arrange an awning.
There is such a light tent made of Terpaulin (laminated polyethylene cloth), 1.2 kg 3x4 meters, it should be very comfortable and not expensive.
I would also like to put the tent under an awning, under this or under another one.

To save weight, there is an idea to put a tent under one awning next to the screen, at a distance of 1.7 m from the screen, sideways to the light(light from both sides). The distance to the generator is about 10 m.
However, there are doubts about the various insects that will climb into the tent and under the tent, running past. From my last trip to Dosang, I remember how many beetles were on the ground around the screen. However, they were crawling in a certain direction.

Has anyone ever set up a tent in the tropics at this distance from the screen?
How does it feel?

This post was edited by Seneka - 02/27/2012 11: 54

For the new year, I bought a garland of 60 blue LEDs with a solar battery from the Chinese
and hung it on a pine tree in the yard. The third month plows like clockwork. On as it gets dark and lights up until 6am.
When it gets warmer, I'll see if any animals arrive or not. Instead of LEDs, you can use a different light source with a suitable range . For expeditions, I think the very thing, especially the price is only $ 10-20 .

The spectrum of UV diodes is very narrow, almost linear and does not cover the UV range that attracts insects. Cold and daylight diodes should attract more attention, because their range is more smeared and they are much brighter. So you need to combine them.

My doubts are gnawing at me...

To protect the screen (3m) and the "chandelier" from rain, I decided to arrange an awning.
There is such a light tent made of Terpaulin (laminated polyethylene cloth), 1.2 kg 3x4 meters, it should be very comfortable and not expensive.
I would also like to put the tent under an awning, under this or under another one.

To save weight, there is an idea to put a tent under one awning next to the screen, at a distance of 1.7 m from the screen, sideways to the light(light from both sides). The distance to the generator is about 10 m.
However, there are doubts about the various insects that will climb into the tent and under the tent, running past. From my last trip to Dosang, I remember how many beetles were on the ground around the screen. However, they were crawling in a certain direction.

Has anyone ever set up a tent in the tropics at this distance from the screen?
How does it feel?

Peru, 2008. Screen next to tents:



as you can see, the insects didn't bother anyone:


and for protection from rain - umbrella

Peru, yogurt(40%), sandwiches, romance! =)

Who can help you correctly calculate the LED connection diagram?!

1. There is a 20Ah battery, with a rated voltage of 12V, maximum 12.8 V and minimum, for example 11V. (which weighs only 2kg).

2. There are powerful LEDs of 130-140-160 Lum, 1 Wat, 350 mOm, with a minimum, nominal and maximum voltage of 2.7-3.3 (working) -3.7 V, respectively. We connect them in series of 4 pieces.
We get a voltage of 10.8(minimum)-13.2 (working)-14.8 (maximum)
We connect 8 such chains in parallel, we get 32W power and about 4500 Lum (this is almost equivalent to 375 Wat of an incandescent lamp).
It is important that the desired color temperature of these diodes (from 5000-10000K) is obtained between the upper values of 13.2 and 14.8 V voltage. While the battery is capable of providing only minimal voltage, minimal efficiency of LEDs and warmer light, which we do not want.

Therefore, you need a slightly step-up transformer for the entire lamp and a subsequent resistor for each chain of 4 diodes. I.e., the scheme is similar to the one shown in the link, but with differences.
http://avrdevices.ru/zapitvaem-sverhyarkiy-svetodiod-ot-1-5-
or maybe like this
http://nice.artip.ru/shema-svetodiodnogo-fonarya

Such a scheme should discharge the battery more deeply and at the same time the LEDs will not close due to a voltage drop. Such a system should work for about 8 hours, or even more.

You need to calculate the scheme, exact values, and suggest a suitable brand of radio components from the available ones.

This post was edited by Seneka - 02/29/2012 18: 15

We connect them in series of 4 pieces.
....
Therefore, a slightly step-up transformer is needed
....
Such a scheme should discharge the battery more deeply and at the same time the LEDs will not close due to a voltage drop. Such a system should work for about 8 hours, or even more.

With a deep discharge, the battery will quickly come back to kirdyk.
I would go the simpler route. Include 3 diodes in the circuits, and power them through a voltage stabilizer. For example ROLL12 or similar http://www.radio-portal.ru/directorypage/1.../1994-142-12-12

With a deep discharge, the battery will quickly come back to kirdyk.
I would go the simpler route. Include 3 diodes in the circuits, and power them through a voltage stabilizer. For example ROLL12 or similar http://www.radio-portal.ru/directorypage/1.../1994-142-12-12

In this case, we will lose 25% of the brightness, and the corresponding power will be dissipated on the stabilizer in the form of heat. I prefer to leave the spectrum as it turns out(i.e., about 4900K), but I will keep the brightness or power for an extra 2 hours. We need a solution with minimal losses. And these are good batteries, they are not afraid of deep discharge.

This post was edited by Seneka - 02/29/2012 20: 53

Who are these " we " who will lose 25% of the brightness? 8 rows of 4 diodes, and 10 rows of three diodes - the difference is only two diodes.
As for the stabilizer, you need to use a PWM stabilizer.
In general, the problem is from scratch, I would like such
Connect 4 diodes, make 8 rows, connect in a straight line, and everything will be normal. The rated voltage is 13.2, and it turns out approx. 12, there is a loss of course, but I think not so significant that for the sake of this messes with the PWM stabilizer, just the minimum loss is to throw these assemblies of 4 diodes directly to 12V and forget yourself in bliss )))) And think about the fact that in this mode the diodes will last longer.

And listen to more ads, turn it around, repeat like a mantra - " these are good batteries, they are not afraid(they do not obey the laws of physics, in short, like good ones are great, by the way)..", only it is unlikely that something very supernova has appeared, and if this is a lead battery, then whatever it is "good" - close to full discharge, even a single one-this is already an incorrigible defect, will affect the capacity. Lead batteries do not have a clear plus and minus, just made, they can be charged to any polarity, but only once. Then in the future, the discharge should not be less than at least approx. 1.5 V per element, with further discharge, the properties change irreversibly, I don't know what happens there, but of course it happens for the worse
Therefore, you can safely discard a certain percentage of the declared capacity.

In this case, we will lose 25% of the brightness, and the corresponding power will be dissipated on the stabilizer in the form of heat.

The brightness isn't going anywhere. On the contrary, the glow will be stable, the desired voltage is set by you yourself. Something will break on the stabilizer, but the "slightly boosting transformer" will still eat up at least 20%.

Connect 4 diodes, make 8 rows, connect in a straight line, and everything will be normal. The rated voltage is 13.2, and it turns out approx. 12, there is a loss of course, but I think not so significant that for the sake of this messes with the PWM stabilizer, just the minimum loss is to throw these assemblies of 4 diodes directly to 12V and forget yourself in bliss )))) And think about the fact that in this mode the diodes will last longer.

I was going to do this right away, but some(do not ask who "some" are) say that it is absolutely impossible to connect this way, because the current strength is not limited and the diodes will quickly burn out, can you give a link where such a connection is described as safe?

A 4*8 configuration is not the same as a 3*10
voltage difference 12.8 - 3*3.7 = 1.7 V must be compensated within each parallel circuit. The chip mentioned by okoem works on heat dissipation.
You'll just lose power, not reallocate.

Now, if it were possible to connect a fourth 1-1.5 V diode in series, of course with a resistor, then this would be optimal, but only the same LEDs can be connected in series, as far as I know. Or the connection scheme is not trivial.

I have already referred to the battery:
http://www.a123rc.com/goods-468-Excitingly...ATIC+CELLS.html

Such plates need 4 pieces sequentially.

This post was edited by Seneka - 02/29/2012 22: 49