Features of light catching

alex017, well, voposy 1200lm-suitable There are two ways-to direct the flashlight in the direction of the most delicious biotope and place the fabric tangentially on the floor, or place the fabric vertically, shine the flashlight in the direction of the biotope on top, illuminating the fabric with the edges.

I was fishing for lum from my balcony. with a 20W lamp, this is somewhere the same luminous flux, not yet concentrated, and moreover in the vicinity where there are objects with bright light, industrial lights and all that-and everything flew in kilotons

1200 lm honest? Just wondering how many diodes are there. Something unreal.
The fact is that I decided to take a normal, pindosovky lantern and took it such with one diode and its output is 150 lm (I took it to the maximum) Probably weighs a kilogram with four batteries, the truth shines och. strongly. But 1200.......

The norm. there are lumens, there is a 10W diode, and it shines on all 1200
But only with the long-term operation of the problem, there is a real period of less than an hour, although I think they write that three

The norm. there are lumens, there is a 10W diode, and it shines on all 1200
But only with the long-term operation of the problem, there is a real period of less than an hour, although I think they write that three

It is clear: with an overload means. Well, good luck to the person.

Brr, what's with the "overload"? The diode works in terminal mode, you bought a 1W flashlight, that's 150lm, just the batteries run down quickly from 10W, but, here it's a matter of technology - to fasten the battery to this platform, the battery is bigger, only the meaning is
like in the joke
"I'll sell a watch, they're a TV, radio, movie projector and gravitsapa. And it's all on your hand! I buy it! Wait kkkkuda, and the car with batteries???")))

Brr, what's with the "overload"? The diode works in terminal mode, you bought a 1W flashlight, that's 150lm, just the batteries run down quickly from 10W, but, here it's a matter of technology - to fasten the battery to this platform, the battery is bigger, only the meaning is
like in the joke
"I'll sell a watch, they're a TV, radio, movie projector and gravitsapa. And it's all on your hand! I buy it! Wait kkkkuda, and the car with batteries???" )))

Yes, I sinned for the service
life of the diode. P. S. My 3W diode according to the passport, by the way. But in reality, it eats 0.55 A from four D-format batteries (373 in Soviet style). Measured now specifically (old, but working multimeter "Mastech" M890G).

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 26.03.2012 22: 37

Well, so you don't have a super-bright diode, here's a look at the luminous flux for super-bright 1W and 4W
http://www.eltech.spb.ru/news.html?nid=1064

Current of 0.5 A approximately acc. 3W, so it's fine, just a low-brightness diode.

I have a flashlight on a modern sd cree t6 like. I don't remember exactly, but at 1200lm the current should be about 2A (or a little more). Accumulators-standard 18650 at 5000 mah 2 pcs.
Flashlight http://www.ebay.com/itm/270903926810?ssPag...984.m1497.l2649
Batteries http://www.ebay.com/itm/270823715271?ssPag...984.m1497.l2649

It really warms up a lot.

Maybe really poshamanit with these diodes is worth it? Select the matrix from them. Fortunately, "Chip and Dip" is nearby. I'll think about it next year. It warms up a lot - it can be overcome.

You can hang the cooler directly on the flashlight. Shamanism is possible and necessary.....

Well, or build a condo in it...

And what is difficult to power a small fan from a battery?

And what is difficult to power a small fan from a battery?

The body of the lamp is aluminum podi? Itself should dissipate heat well: do not suffer

Yes, I do not suffer, the batteries have not yet come to torment him, only according to reviews, the case heats up in 20 minutes to 50 degrees, which is fraught with damage to the SD. The diving flashlight, you understand that there will be no such heating in the water.

Yes, I do not suffer, the batteries have not yet come to torment him, only according to reviews, the case heats up in 20 minutes to 50 degrees, which is fraught with damage to the SD. The diving flashlight, you understand that there will be no such heating in the water.

Ah, that's it! Well, tagda the problem can be solved by installing it in some container with water, for example, by cutting off the bottle and periodically changing the water in it, this will be much less often than turning it off cherz every 20 minutes.! Well, this should already be done on the spot!

alex017, wow, the "diver's version". There is a stationary inside of the diode on a metal substrate, which transmits heat to the housing, you need to carve an annular radiator made of aluminum, with an outer diameter of about 100 mm, and put it on the housing. Because all sorts of arguments are just an extra fuss.

alex017, wow, the "diver's version". There is a stationary inside of the diode on a metal substrate, which transmits heat to the housing, you need to carve an annular radiator made of aluminum, with an outer diameter of about 100 mm, and put it on the housing. Because all sorts of arguments are just an extra fuss.

I think it will be a little hemorrhoid...

And dragging a generator around is less of a pain in the ass than using scanty batteries and a 40x40 or 50x50mm cooler? Too bad I didn't buy them and they won't have time to arrive....

What does the generator have to do with it?

Some are used for DRL fishing with all the consequences.

Some are used for DRL fishing with all the consequences.

Not some, but almost everyone who does it professionally. So-how best to fly it on them. I'd use it myself if I could. Still, I remain an adherent of gas-discharge sources. And you must write about the effectiveness of LED fishing. Maybe then many people will need to think and reconsider the options as LEDs are certainly easier and their use is much easier.

Good afternoon

Last year I caught butterflies in the light of DRV 250 and DRV160.
It's time to switch to the DRL
Current question:
will the current choke fit on a 125V DRL lamp or not (photo).
As the consultants said, so you still need some kind of zazhyganie mechanism, like tokogo :
http://www.e-senukai.lt//200050587105_2.html
but there he writes that it is intended for llamas made of sodium and metalogologenye so I don't know whether it will work or not

Pictures:

Nuotrauka0199.jpg — (570.33к)

Good afternoon

Last year I caught butterflies in the light of DRV 250 and DRV160.
It's time to switch to the DRL
Current question:
will the current choke fit on a 125V DRL lamp or not (photo).
As the consultants said, so you still need some kind of zazhyganie mechanism, like tokogo :
http://www.e-senukai.lt//200050587105_2.html
but there he writes that it is intended for llamas made of sodium and metalogologenye so I don't know whether it will work or not

Why not? For the DRL to work, you only need a throttle and no "ignition mechanisms".
P.S. Here here there is a description of the lamp and a standard launch scheme.
From myself: the capacitor can be excluded from the circuit.

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 03/29/2012 09: 46

I will definitely write about the result if I still decide to sit at night in an unfamiliar area in a country with unknown animals)))) Do you think there are animals in Turkey that can profit from bipeds, except for the bipeds themselves?

Only my result can not be taken for 100% accuracy, because there is no experience, and this means a lot.

Since I don't collect butterflies,but only take pictures, there is a serious problem that I can't take very good photos at night anyway.
I want to experience a kind of light trap from a tent
Light the lamp inside the tent and lure the butterflies there.Last year, when I hid it from the rain, a lot of butterflies flew inside,only a lot of them sit on the roof from the outside.Probably the blue color of the canvas attracts I think to make a gap on top so that insects crawl inside.
Maybe you should also throw some coca bark inside the tent.so that the scoops have a place to hide.
Can someone else advise you what to do?

Pictures:

DSCN1411.JPG — (309.11к)

I want to experience a kind of light trap from a tent
Light the lamp inside the tent and lure the butterflies there. ... Can someone else advise you what to do?  

Mosquito repellent ointment.

Today, my recently purchased generator was successfully tested with Bad Den. It worked well, holding a 200-watt lamp without straining. I was pleased that it keeps exactly 220 volts, and there is also an output power regulator. If desired, by removing all the covers, the weight of the generator can be reduced to 8-9 kg.

How long was it turned on? How's your fuel consumption?

Turned on for 10 minutes. Just checking. Consumption XS, the instructions say-tank for 4 hours (2.6 liters)

Good afternoon

Last year I caught butterflies in the light of DRV 250 and DRV160.
It's time to switch to the DRL
Current question:
will the current choke fit on a 125V DRL lamp or not (photo).
As the consultants said, so you still need some kind of zazhyganie mechanism, like tokogo :
http://www.e-senukai.lt//200050587105_2.html
but there he writes that it is intended for llamas made of sodium and metalogologenye so I don't know whether it will work or not

This choke is suitable, because it is designed specifically for mercury lamps. You don't need anything else.

Yes, I sinned for the service
life of the diode. P. S. My 3W diode according to the passport, by the way. But in reality, it eats 0.55 A from four D-format batteries (373 in Soviet style). Measured now specifically (old, but working multimeter "Mastech" M890G).

Guys, do you remember that in light sources, LEDs work in pulsed mode? Therefore, you always measure the integrated power and consumption. At the same time, high brightness is achieved by pumping a pulsed current into the LED, which is much higher than the maximum stationary current. With a duty cycle of 10, you can drive the current 10 times more. In the characteristics of LEDs, the maximum pulse current is usually indicated in addition to the nominal one. I vaguely remember that in the infrared LED AL-109 at one time drove a current of 1A in a pulse. And this is when the size of the LED is the size of a pinhead. That's just hard to say how many times the light output increases
So that, Vasily, you can't measure the real current with a multimeter and 0.55 A is the average value...

As far as I understand the UV source in them is a lamp this the type for which quartz tubes are used as ballast, which are actually heated? In fact this is an ordinary LDS tube only without phosphor and the glass is probably different: that's all the difference. It is advisable to insert it into a regular lamp and catch, and quartz tubes, respectively, in the furnace. And it should not be heated.

The radiation source in germicidal lamps is usually the lamps of the DRI series and their imported analogues. Externally, they look like this, i.e. without caps:
The ballast is nichrome resistors in the form of a spiral from an electric stove, but sealed in a glass flask. In any case, I did not come across tubular lamps in household bactericidal lamps.

And this is Linkon the most powerful pocket flashlight in the world! 18000lum, 8 SST-90 LEDs!. To make your mouth water..

And this is Linkon the most powerful pocket flashlight in the world! 18000lum, 8 SST-90 LEDs!. To make your mouth water..

Anti-aircraft searchlight

The radiation source in germicidal lamps is usually the lamps of the DRI series and their imported analogues. Externally, they look like this, i.e. without caps:
The ballast is nichrome resistors in the form of a spiral from an electric stove, but sealed in a glass flask. In any case, I did not come across tubular lamps in household bactericidal lamps.

Michael, I meant something like this. In hospitals, such devices are installed inpatient. C portable just not familiar With the last time I was in the hospital saw enough.
To all: I recommend that you pay attention not to the lamp itself, the link to which I gave, but to the lamps that are used there. Such lamps are suitable for any ordinary lamp.
Here scheme from the same site.

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 01.04.2012 07: 31

By the way, the day before yesterday I checked my lamp, turned it on for 1.5 hours, no heating, until everything is OK!!!

Michael, I meant something like this. In hospitals, such devices are installed inpatient. C portable just not familiar With the last time I was in the hospital saw enough.
To all: I recommend that you pay attention not to the lamp itself, the link to which I gave, but to the lamps that are used there. Such lamps are suitable for any ordinary lamp.
Here scheme from the same site.

You see, I somehow did not meet in everyday life tube lamps with a power of more than 70W. Apparently, this is due to the length of the bit gap. But out of habit, I measure the efficiency of fishing from DRL-250, so I didn't look closely, your lamp is no different from ordinary ceiling and wall lamps, except for a UV lamp instead of DRT. But, at these capacities, both chokes are small and electronic control units are in the range, i.e. everything is greatly facilitated.

Today I got just a terrible thing-a couple of batteries for 10A / h 1.2 V Brand-pure Chinese anonymus Cost ok 7ue per pair, at the cost of orig. ok 17ue ue for a couple.
While checking the real characteristics, the batteries were recharged, in the package.
The matrix from the Chinese flashlight does not light up normally. from this voltage (2.5 V) directly, but I have a 5V/12V converter from a Soviet computer, there is a 5V input, but this is the USSR, so in fact the converter operates in the range of 1.5-7V and produces stable 12V with a midpoint (ie 24V in general) of 10W. Its efficiency is 70%.

But there are also LEDs not only 3.5 V, but also 2.3 V(red and yellow).

So there are two options - either a yellow LED and a straight line, with a resistor, or a white one, but with a 12V driver and a converter. You need to put in the first case probably a 10W diode, in the second 2X3 W super-bright yellow, like there are such.

I also bought an old copper case from a Soviet flashlight for a couple of such batteries for 0.5 ue, which is a pretty good option, since the copper (or brass) of the case will pass for a radiator.

If in reality these batteries will hold at least 6A / h, then the 10W diode should burn for about 1.5 hours, 3W-5 hours

  
But there are also LEDs not only 3.5 V, but also 2.3 V(red and yellow).

So there are two options - either a yellow LED and a straight line, with a resistor, or a white one, but with a 12V driver and a converter. You need to put in the first case probably a 10W diode, in the second 2X3 W super-bright yellow, like there are such.

There is also a boost driver, it is cheap, and it is not a problem to buy one, it seems to cost only 24.00 UAH. But the current is up to 0.7 A! Therefore, For high-power LEDs, you need to knit them in parallel somehow... Where I looked like it is written.

Modern powerful cree LEDs, by the way, give an angle of study up to 130 degrees (XP-E), so it's quite possible to catch, although the LEDs themselves are tiny!
I want to note that the heat sink is not a joke, since the radiator on which there is a red LED with a lens is heated quite noticeably, the XP-E LED is supplied with a current of 1A(about 3 W), and with a 10-watt LED, the radiator must be even larger for the LED to work flawlessly.
And I managed to make a very beautiful and aesthetically pleasing assembly with an LED, a radiator, a lens and a driver.

This post was edited by DanMar - 01.04.2012 20: 23

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IMG_0209.JPG — (374.33к)