Features of light catching

I agree about sd, the Chinese lied a little, but even 1000lm is a lot. The flashlight has an adjustment knob, so you can avoid setting the brightness limit values.

The batteries say 5000mah,


XP-E is not the most advanced, there is already an XT-E. But so that they give a narrow angle, you need optics. With optics, they light up the paper...

This post was edited by alex017 - 01.04.2012 19: 09

The one like on 18650 can't be 5000mAh!! There if already more than 3000mach-lamplighters consider that deception! If I find an article about this where I read it, then I will publish the link here

And HT-E I saw for some reason only royal blue, and white such-no ((

White is the latest generation like the XM-L U2, but in terms of light output, they are almost the same as the T6 (min 300lm at 700mA). I bought these for myself to highlight plants and am waiting for the parcel.

This post was edited by alex017 - 01.04.2012 19: 28

In general, I collected a flashlight right now! As LEDs, I put two sets from a Chinese flashlight, and connected it to 24V, it shines very brightly! Much brighter than before, it is impossible to look, and this is only 8 5mm LEDs with a current of 30mA. The batteries were excellent! They keep a high current for hours, approx. 1A, and with such diodes as I have just installed-they should generally sit down only after 30 hours of continuous illumination

Now I will probably buy two yellow or red ones, but I would like yellow, 3W LEDs, so that there is no converter directly.
Although, I do not know why such brightness? this double Chinese is already blinding. Only perhaps for catching in the light, but in order to look for animals, I think the brightness is not very large, otherwise the animals will run away before we reach it))))))

alexa, your batteries are better, they are supposed to hold 37W per hour, and the dimensions are smaller, and mine are 25W per hour. But considering the price of these, I'm glad I bought them. Moreover, it is on these batteries that you do not need a driver.

Hierophis, it is interesting to see how everything works, and what will arrive, will it arrive at all?) This is for lithium-ion: the capacity in such cells (18650) often does not exceed 2500mAh, even if 3Ah is written... The predominant capacity is mainly at the level of 2Ah.
http://activ.egain.ru/532_42_28_922_148_1206.html

I HAVEN't tried lithium ones yet, but the ancient nickel ones pulled the compressor on batteries for about 12-13h (one 1.2 V 2800mAh battery)

Decided to switch to DRL
I bought Polam LRF 250w,Polam LRF 125w lamps (interestingly, there is no warning on them to not send them directly to the outlet), and Kolorlux 250w.
And it remains to connect the Soviet drosel correctly

Pictures:

01.jpg — (122.63 k)

Decided to switch to DRL
I bought Polam LRF 250w,Polam LRF 125w lamps (interestingly, there is no warning on them to not send them directly to the outlet), and Kolorlux 250w.
And it remains to connect the Soviet drosel correctly

Through the Soviet throttle. And only serial connection (make sure that the lamp power corresponds to the power indicated on the throttle).
Never connect directly to the DRL socket in any case: e...t!

My life is closely connected with lamps)) How many times negligent electricians confused MLKI with DRLkami...... the truth is that the death of drlki from 220V is accompanied by only a small clap, the fitter does not even have time to do it in his pants)))
By the way, I advise UV lovers to use the lamp without the first bulb. It is enough to break the first flask lightly with a thread. The second one works quite normally and for a long time. Get SO MUCH UV that you don't get burned yourself! I don't recommend doing this with small lamps - it's almost an incandescent lamp.

By the way, I advise UV lovers to use the lamp without the first bulb. It is enough to break the first flask lightly with a thread. The second one works quite normally and for a long time. Get SO MUCH UV that you don't get burned yourself!

And this is called here "Crushed DRL" We know....we know the best way to catch the light

I do not understand this conservatism, why drag the throttle with you, when all this replaces the capacitor connect the 400V 10 uf capacitor to the DRL 250 lamp instead of the throttle and everything will be normal

I do not understand this conservatism, why drag the throttle with you, when all this replaces the capacitor connect the 400V 10 UF capacitor to the DRL 250 lamp instead of the throttle and everything will be normal

But I don't.
I always catch fish here (photo).Tied to the house with 150 meters of cable
Drosel will put in front of the extension cords, near the house

Pictures:

001.jpg — (144.61 k)

Well, this method is out of competition, of course!

Arunas, I also only caught out of the house when I caught the light, but of course everything was not so chic for me - outside the city, but in an ordinary apartment building.

But I still used the capacitor, it does not buzz, does not heat up, but for a long time I did not catch it on the DRL, there is nothing particularly interesting compared to the 38W housekeeper.

And in "standby mode", when he was sleeping, he put the housekeeper in a trap

Arunas, I also only caught out of the house when I caught the light, but of course everything was not so chic for me - outside the city, but in an ordinary apartment building.

But I still used the capacitor, it does not buzz, does not heat up, but for a long time I did not catch it on the DRL, there is nothing particularly interesting compared to the 38W housekeeper.

And in "standby mode", when he was asleep, he put the housekeeper in a trap

Roman, and you can be more precise what is the 38W housekeeper (model, parameters)

Arunas, "38W housekeeper" is a common lum-based light bulb on sale here. tubes, but screwed into the holder for incandescent bulbs. I usually buy "Delux", caught on the color temperature is mostly 6000K. In general, this is an analog of lum. 40W tube lamps.

I do not understand this conservatism, why drag the throttle with you, when all this replaces the capacitor connect the 400V 10 UF capacitor to the DRL 250 lamp instead of the throttle and everything will be normal

Can I use the connection diagram?

Can I use the connection diagram?

There is no starting moment, the capacitor is a capacitive resistance, the drosel is an inductive one. I doubt that anyone will try to poke anything in there, the people here are literate, who understands what to do will do it, who does not understand it will not do it.
The capacitor needs a type of MBGO or MBGCH, only it is not paper and metal-paper sealed))) MBGCH can be 250V.

There is no starting moment, the capacitor is a capacitive resistance, the drosel is an inductive one. I doubt that anyone will try to poke anything in there, the people here are literate, who understands what to do will do it, who does not understand it will not do it.
The capacitor needs a type of MBGO or MBGCH, only it is not paper and metal-paper sealed))) MBGCH can be 250V.

The jump is present immediately when connecting (this is the "starting moment"). Well, then, yes, the resistance increases and the AC capacitor is a conductor. Theoretically, it can work (no one has tried it yet). Well, I colloquially said" paper": as I got used to (my education was originally connected with electronics, and I like to sit with a soldering iron since childhood).
P. S. Actually, this is just a knowhow in my opinion risky: starting through a capacitor (read the sixth post from the top from LightOffer).
I strongly do not recommend anyone to take risks.

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 03.04.2012 19: 00

The jump is present immediately when connecting (this is the "starting moment"). Well, then, yes, the resistance increases and the AC capacitor is a conductor. Theoretically, it can work (no one has tried it yet). Well, I colloquially said" paper": as I got used to (my education was originally connected with electronics, and I like to sit with a soldering iron since childhood).
P. S. Actually, this is just a knowhow in my opinion risky: starting through a capacitor (read the sixth post from the top from LightOffer).
I strongly do not recommend anyone to take risks.

The ballast capacitor completely replaces the throttle, as well as the reactance. The essence of maintenance is the same: limit the current on the DRL. The only problem is that the capacitor needs at least 250V, NOT electrolytic. And those have mass-dimensional characteristics worse than that of the throttle.

The ballast capacitor completely replaces the throttle, as well as the reactance. The essence of maintenance is the same: limit the current on the DRL. The only problem is that the capacitor needs at least 250V, NOT electrolytic. And those have mass-dimensional characteristics worse than that of the throttle.

Well, it is clear that the type of codensator should be KBG, MBH, BGT (usually these are used in everyday life to start asynchronous motors). But here's how to calculate the capacity for DRL 250? In my opinion, for any less than the throttle in size and weight will come out. But is it worth experimenting (it seems risky to me)? Something I have not seen in practice anywhere such a way to start DRL.

Well, it is clear that the type of codensator should be KBG, MBH, BGT (usually these are used in everyday life to start asynchronous motors). But here's how to calculate the capacity for DRL 250? In my opinion, for any less than the throttle in size and weight will come out. But is it worth experimenting (it seems risky to me)? Something I have not seen in practice anywhere such a method of launching the DRL.

Did you see it with an incandescent light bulb? Or just read it here? Estimate the capacitance of the capacitor yourself, based on the operating current of the DRL (for -250 something about 3A, it seems) and voltage (~100 V). The resistance is 1 divided by the product of the circular frequency and the capacitance of the capacitor. Then look for the right one in the directory... I somehow climbed up to look for a 10 UF, 250V conder on the Network in order to turn on the throttle in parallel... Found with difficulty, imported and I somehow did not like the dimensions and weight

No dimensions there are not large In fact the 30mkf 250V MBH capacitor has a size of about 4 boxes of matches and probably weighs 100 grams

No dimensions there are not large In fact the 30mkf 250V MBH capacitor has a size of about 4 boxes of matches and probably weighs 100 grams

Absolutely true. I had to take a picture of the sandpaper on my balcony for example: the engine is three-phase (120 watts in my opinion) and I run this case from a single-phase network through the MBGO conder 10 uf 300 v
Judge for yourself about the dimensions.
Yes, and I will add: the capacitor is already manufactured in 1965 and still runs this engine only on the road.

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 05.04.2012 17: 27

Pictures:

c.jpg — (282.15к)

I had to take a picture of the sandpaper on my balcony for example:

is there a spray of dried blood on the wall?

is there a spray of dried blood on the wall?

"Pinotex" is: when the shelf was covered-splashed. Well, it was lazy to wipe it off the tile .

the question may not be quite right here .. I don't know where else to ask him I caught the male today.
. not at the light, but just noticed on the trunk.. but how to find their female? it's not like it's going to come to the light bulb at night..

You couldn't have picked it off today (Erannis defoliaria which), because it flies in the fall. Most likely it is Agriopis of some kind.

Agriopis marginaria (Fabricius, 1776) does she have a female with wings too?


This post was edited by Collector-09.04.2012 12: 42

Agriopis marginaria (Fabricius, 1776) does she have a female with wings too?

C underdeveloped ones.

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 09.04.2012 12: 50

Well, I ask how to catch them..?? now it is not so easy to notice them on the trunks.. and when the leaves bloom at all to find?

Well, I ask how to catch them..?? now it is not so easy to notice them on the trunks.. and when the leaves bloom at all to find?

Well, I just recently found it on the wall of my house.

Well, I ask how to catch them..?? now it is not so easy to notice them on the trunks.. and when the leaves bloom at all to find?

Train your eyesight. And when the leaves open , you can't find them, of course, because they won't be there any more.

In general, wingless females are easiest to look for either when they are just emerging from the pupae (this usually happens in the morning) and sit at the base of the trunks, or later-go at night with a flashlight and carefully examine each trunk for individuals in copula.

and I already go in the morning.. why should I go there at 8 o'clock?

Of course, otherwise the birds will get ahead of you.

Hello!

I finally assembled an electric part for night fishing.
Actually, my light sources are two energy-saving lamps of 15 watts each of cold and warm light and one 18-watt fluorescent ultraviolet tube.
(I know that DRL is better,but for now I will use what is available-the generator is not an option for me yet)
This is all powered by a lead battery via the converter described by okoem in the post
URL #862 . the only thing I had to rewind the transformer (made by an electronics engineer friend) and put a voltmeter to monitor the battery charge( so as not to lose it too much)

But then the question arose - do the savings banks light up the UV tube? Visually, its light is visible much better when they are turned off. moreover, there is no voltage drop when they are connected, the effect is purely visual. That is, even if the included savings banks lying next to the UV are covered with something, its light is visible much better.
Q: Does this affect the UV visibility of insects? Or will they see everything equally with and without savings accounts?

Photos are attached, they show a visual difference in the light.