Features of light catching

And our nights are white...

So it shines like a fluorescent lamp, why can't I see it?)

well, try polovi then on it. This is a rare lamp, very few people catch it. Unsubscribe here later as fishing went.

Well, thank you=) Today I will try to catch, if possible, tomorrow I will catch exactly.

Can you tell me what precautions should be taken when powering the lamp from the car's cigarette lighter via an inverter so that the battery does not run out?

Can you tell me what precautions should be taken when powering the lamp from the car's cigarette lighter via an inverter so that the battery does not run out?

A 100% effective method is not to turn off the engine.

A 100% effective method is not to turn off the engine.

Is it possible in this case to talk about an increase in fuel consumption of the car with an increase in lamp power?

This post was edited by niyaz - 28.06.2012 19: 36

Is it possible in this case to talk about an increase in fuel consumption of the car with an increase in lamp power?

It is unlikely to be a serious cost overrun, compared to the usual work on chlolostyh.
Another thing is that even if the battery is undercharged, there will be no problems with starting the engine))

I would not recommend turning it on in the cigarette lighter, immediately to the battery terminals with crocodiles. The cigarette lighter will burn out. I catch just with the inverter, the engine is not jammed, idle fuel consumption is not high.

There is a regular 250W incandescent lamp.
There is a mercury-free 250W throttle-free lamp.
Explain popularly, if you do not prick anything, should the second one get more than the first one or not?

There is a regular 250W incandescent lamp.
There is a mercury-free 250W throttle-free lamp.
Explain popularly, if you do not prick anything, should the second one get more than the first one or not?

On the second - yes
, hoarfrost has more UV spectrum.

I was told that you all catch only on DRL, please tell me har-ki it, what should I buy in the store?)

(catch at the dacha from the outlet)

This post was edited by Collector - 07/19/2012 11: 12

Well, like I came to a store where they sell all sorts of industrial electrics, and asked for a DRL lamp (for the right number of watts), a throttle to it and a cartridge, a wire for connecting the required length and a plug.
If you catch without a flask, I would advise you to make a protective cover with a slot, so as not to burn.

Well, like I came to a store where they sell all sorts of industrial electrics, and asked for a DRL lamp (for the right number of watts), a throttle to it and a cartridge, a wire for connecting the required length and a plug.
If you catch without a flask, I would advise you to make a protective cover with a slot, so as not to burn.

what's the throttle? a regular cartridge? how many watts? are they sold without a flask?

I was told that you all catch only on DRL, please tell me har-ki it, what should I buy in the store?)

(catch at the dacha from the outlet)

Say-to me DRL-250
Cartridge-E40
Throttle (in the external version-such an iron box measuring 25x10 cm and weighing 4 kg) - this is something without which the lamp will not start. They say that it is replaced by an incandescent light bulb connected in series - in this topic it was.


Without a bulb, they are not sold, you need to carefully break the bulb yourself (or you don't need to - without a bulb, the lamp emits powerful UV radiation, which can burn and burn your eyes)

But in general, it's all chewed, chewed, " shavano and high...but" in this very topic - you just need not be too lazy to read 45 pages.

This post was edited by Bad Den - 07/19/2012 11: 44

Power 150-1000W to choose from, corresponding power choke, wire 2x1. 5mm2, plug (to fit into the socket at home), cartridge in accordance with the selected lamp (ceramic E27 or E40).
You need to buy a couple of lamps, otherwise you may not be able to break the bulb the first time.
No flasks are sold! It is extremely dangerous to look at such a lamp!!!!!!! Inhaling ionized air is extremely dangerous! Make the casing!

What should I do with the throttle?(what is it anyway?)
why remove the flask?

This post was edited by Collector - 07/19/2012 11: 43

Make the casing!

It is already sold with an excellent factory-made casing-outer flask

just don't be too lazy to read 45 pages.

I can't do this in 20 minutes, because I'm going to the store to get this lamp

This post was edited by Collector - 07/19/2012 11: 48

I can't do this in 20 minutes, because I'm going to the store to get this lamp

Too early to run to the store)

I can't do this in 20 minutes, because I'm going to the store to get this lamp

First, learn how to work with the entire DRL. When there are years, insects are piled up on it...

In such stores, the seller usually does not sell barrels of cucumbers, or there is a special consultant, if anything.

I use, having gone through a lot, DRL 250 watts. (better "Phillips") with the corresponding throttle of the same (this is mandatory!) power. The rest of the dispositions were given to you. The whole set, by the way, is now at a minimum of about 1300-1500 rubles.

First, learn how to work with the entire DRL. When there are years, insects are piled up on it...

In such stores, the seller usually does not sell barrels of cucumbers, or there is a special consultant, if anything.

I use, having gone through a lot, DRL 250 watts. (better "Phillips") with the corresponding throttle of the same (this is mandatory!) power. The rest of the dispositions were given to you. The entire set, by the way, is now at a minimum of about 1300-1500 rubles.

well I have wires and there is a cartridge
really the lamp and throttle are 1000r

well I have wires and there is a cartridge
really the lamp and throttle cost 1000r

Yes. And this is economy class.

Recently, a new noiseless throttle for 250 W. bought, about 850 rubles.

The electrical circuit assembly diagram is shown on the throttle, it is the simplest.

Recently, a new noiseless throttle for 250 watts. bought, about 850 rubles.

does he even make a sound?

well I have wires and there is a cartridge
really the lamp and throttle cost 1000r

The cartridge must be E40
For ordinary home incandescent lamps, the cartridge is E27, it will not fit

does he even make a sound?

Chokes, at least the old ones that were designed for use in the factory and in street lamps, had this feature. For some time I used such a throttle from a decommissioned yard lamp - I won't advise anyone, by morning my head is buzzing like after a tank exercise... The ones that are currently on sale, I think, are all silent, well, almost..

This post was edited by Aaata - 07/19/2012 13: 01

well I have wires and there is a cartridge
really the lamp and throttle cost 1000r

If you feel sorry for the money on the throttle, take the DRV lamp, which has a built-in throttle inside. This lamp costs 130-150 rubles. Personally, I did not notice the advantage of DRL over DRV.

I bought



This post was edited by Collector - 07/19/2012 14: 40

can you explain why this iron box is needed?

This post was edited by Collector - 07/19/2012 14: 54

If you feel sorry for the money on the throttle, take the DRV lamp, which has a built-in throttle inside. This lamp costs 130-150 rubles. Personally, I did not notice the advantage of DRL over DRV.

There is still a difference in the catchability of DRL and DRV lamps of the same power. This is especially noticeable in the presence of competitive high-power light sources nearby (for example, the same DRL), as well as in sluggish summers (on unfavorable nights or in spring/autumn). When the flight is excellent, the difference, indeed, may not be so obvious: 10 thousand or 12 thousand insects arrived during the night no longer plays a role and, most likely, our eye will simply not notice such an "insignificant" difference.. Plus "long-range", plus greater species diversity (as a rule).

In the DRV, not the throttle, but the elements of an incandescent lamp (by analogy with a conventional electric bulb turned on in series in a circuit that replaces the throttle). In this connection, it partly has the signs of an incandescent lamp, including undesirable ones for us. This is a shift of the spectrum to the yellow part. And, what is even more unpleasant, like a regular incandescent lamp, it can not be used in the rain (and this is often very catchy conditions) – it will break with the first drops that fall (just have time to dodge so that the splinters do not get into your eyes). DRL also works, as experience shows, in all weather conditions, including in a downpour (with reliable moisture insulation of contacts in the cartridge, of course)

In addition, you can only remove the outer case from the DRL. ( it is well known that you can not prick the DRV).

Therefore, the DRV is more likely a backup option when it is not possible to use the DRL.

This post was edited by Aaata - 07/19/2012 15: 19

can you explain why this iron box is needed?

Then you will read the theory of electrophysics in the circuit. And so more than half of the season has already flown by.

This post was edited by Aaata - 07/19/2012 15: 17

Then you will read the theory of electrophysics in the circuit. And so more than half of the season has already flown by.

I should have said right away how) and then we burned the outlet here with a friend)) but the circuit was assembled and the light bulb works

half a season caught on ilyichevka

There is still a difference in the catchability of DRL and DRV lamps of the same power. This is especially noticeable in the presence of competitive high-power light sources nearby (for example, the same DRL), as well as in sluggish summers (on unfavorable nights or in spring/autumn).

And competitive light sources in populated areas are the same DRLks. Why would they want to fly the Seeker's AWL specifically? Perhaps here, after all, the role of the screen, which better reflects UV light, rather than the poles of power lines, plays a more important role. A DRL or DRV is not important.

In the DRV, not the throttle, but the elements of an incandescent lamp (by analogy with a conventional electric bulb turned on in series in a circuit that replaces the throttle). In this connection, it partly has the signs of an incandescent lamp, including undesirable ones for us.

Why is it not desirable? After all, the greater the spectrum of light available, the better it is probably. Does yellow light repel insects?

And, what is even more unpleasant, like a regular incandescent lamp, it can not be used in the rain (and this is often very catchy conditions) – it will break with the first drops that fall (just have time to dodge so that the splinters do not get into your eyes). DRL also works, as experience shows, in all weather conditions, including in a downpour (with reliable moisture insulation of contacts in the cartridge, of course)

Wow, caught on Drveshki in a heavy downpour and nothing happened to them. Maybe you have an explanation for why the DRV flask should burst from raindrops?

In addition, you can only remove the outer case from the DRL. ( it is well known that you can not prick the DRV).

So it is. But are there any experiments in which a Stab DRL would perform better than a non-stab one in terms of attracting insects?

This post was edited by niyaz - 07/19/2012 17: 03

And competitive light sources in populated areas are the same DRLks. Why would they want to fly the Seeker's AWL specifically? Perhaps here, after all, the role of the screen, which better reflects UV light, rather than the poles of power lines, plays a more important role. A DRL or DRV is not important.
           

Why is it not desirable? After all, the greater the spectrum of light available, the better it is probably. Does yellow light repel insects?
Wow, caught on Drveshki in a heavy downpour and nothing happened to them. Maybe you have an explanation for why the DRV flask should burst from raindrops?
So it is. But are there any experiments in which a Stab DRL would perform better than a non-stab one in terms of attracting insects?

Not "exactly on the catcher's DRL", but also or comparable. While the DRV in such conditions does not get much. I don't argue about the screen value.

Yellow light is unattractive for the vast majority of insects. The greater the shift to the Uv part of the light, the better insects are attracted, which has long been proven. At least look at how the lanterns fly in parks with yellow and white lights – with the same power, the difference is immediately noticeable. The work of G. G. Gornostaev can be used as a basis for "classical" studies and scientific justifications on insect phototaxis.

I have DRV burst, if a little gawked before the rain. And here I read from hunters in the tropics, where they complained about these lamps that died in the rain, because there it is not always easy to buy a replacement and each lamp is worth its weight in gold. If you do not confuse the type of lamps, then, apparently, the DRV also began to be made of resistant glass, like the DRL. And they burst, I think, for the same reason as ordinary electric bulbs: a sharp temperature drop with a fragile material. I am far from solid state physics and can only speculate..

About pricked/non-pricked…This is again a question about the most attractive part of the spectrum. It has long been solved experimentally by many. At one time, it also placed approximately 10-15 m away. simultaneously operating split and intact DRL of the same power and orientation (lamps and screens). I can't vouch for the strict purity of the "experiment", but the stab always accumulated more insects (somewhere up to 20-25%) and the species diversity was more pleasing.

Are you ready to swap your eyes for insects? Wouldn't it be better to be sharper?

I should have said right away how) and then we burned the outlet here with a friend)) but the circuit was assembled and the light bulb works

half a season caught on Ilyichevka

Happy baptism of fire!

Have a good hunt!

Are you ready to swap your eyes for insects? Wouldn't it be better to be sharper?

Safety glasses + sunscreen on the skin (SPF 40 or more) = reliable protection against UF

Are you ready to swap your eyes for insects? Wouldn't it be better to be sharper?

Precautionary measures, as they say here, rule. These include not only the means of protection, but also the irregularity of fishing for split fish, from time to time, "in the hunt", with a focus on something rare. A question of measure... In small doses, UV radiation (UFO) has long been used in medicine. He himself did not fall under the "distribution", but one onlooker who pestered half the night with stories that he "does not take anything" in the morning had to be taken to the hospital for ophthalmology - two days later he returned, but for a week he was afraid to look at any light, even a burning candle.

Yellow light is unattractive for the vast majority of insects. The greater the shift to the Uv part of the light, the better insects are attracted, which has long been proven. At least look at how the lanterns fly in parks with yellow and white lights – with the same power, the difference is immediately noticeable.

But the DRV with the UV part of the spectrum is all right. Lanterns in parks with yellow light - you probably mean DNAT lamps that shine more orange light and are considered environmentally friendly, since they do not attract insects.
By the way, I had to compare DRL ci installed in localities. So, DRLki hung on dark tarred wooden poles poorly attracted insects, regardless of their location, while DRLki on concrete pillars, the light of which fell on a light fence, attracted not comparably better. Hence, it is concluded that the quality of the reflective surface is a crucial factor for insects attracted to light traps.