Features of light catching

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15.09.2012 15:37, Alexander73

I collected a temporary decoy for myself:

What an interesting construction! The grille presumably carries the throttle away from the wall? And CFL over pricked DRL - for what?
My "hospital" looks a lot more prosaic, although it is not on the wall of the house, but on the edge of the plot:

Throttle behind the screen-stands on a brick, and is covered with a cut-off 5-liter bottle planted on metal pins (from rain)
P.S. And about the BL-350 lamp - I used 15W - in the forest, and I can say that you can't do without additional lighting; a little brighter ( and whiter) Repti Glo 10, but also uncomfortable for the eyes.
And if we talk about efficiency, then you can't compare it with the DRL-250!

This post was edited by Alexander73 - 16.09.2012 07: 54

Pictures:

Photo110.jpg — (540.33к)

07.10.2012 8:57, alex017

Despite the fact that it was said a lot here that LEDs are garbage, i.e. they are not very efficient, I still decided on this path, so I bought this charger-a power source with different output voltage on 4 18650 5.5 Ah accumulators 3.6V5V9V12V19V24V 3A/2A Mobile Power USB 18650 Battery Charger+adaptor+connector.

I bought 4pcs solar panel (1.2 w*4) and voltage regulator to accurately set the battery charger voltage described above (input 16.8 V).

I bought a digital one ammeter and voltmeter, to make an indication of what the battery actually gives. They consume 8mA each.

I bought a 12V-220V inverter 200W USB Car Power Inverter Converter Adapter DC 12V to AC 220V Adaptor Convert so that you can turn on, say, a small pump for units of watts (we are not only interested in insects) or a micro-soldering iron if something falls off (and this, alas, happens).
It is bad that such cheap miniature devices are not sold at 24V with a modified sinusoid suitable for powering an electric motor, you will have to buy a powerful 4-10A dc-dc converter to be powered from the output of the 24V 2A power source and converted to 12V to expand the capabilities of the dc-ac converter with 30 (27) Watts when powered The source output is 15V 2A to 48W from the 24V 2A output.

Well, I almost got a power source that works regardless of civilization

Now we plan to buy a 12V 1.5-2A LED driver, a radiator with a cooler from computer equipment and three modern white LEDs, lensing them with 30-degree optics.

The most interesting thing now is how much one set of accumulators will last...

Likes: 2

09.10.2012 15:39, alex017

The light output of the DRL (without a built-in trigger) is about 13klm. Or 50-60lm / w. From the SD in real operating modes, currents of about 1.5 A, you can have 125lm/w (I use these).
DRL shines in all directions, unlike sd. In this case, this is only a plus.
I plan to put a reflector that allows you to direct all the light flow exactly to the screen. If you use a translucent material, you can get a bright spot on both sides, and on the second I plan to hang UV leds or a lamp from a UV sterilizer with a 12V push-button device. As a result, on the reverse side you will get a bright light spot with UV light. Maybe it will be quite catchy in interesting places))

Calculating the operating time for the capacity of accumulators will not give much, because it is not clear how much the converter "eats" in reality, although it is written that the efficiency is 90%, but how to believe the Chinese?!.

09.10.2012 17:06, Hierophis

I bought such a charger - a power source with different output voltage

Well, does it work well?

By the way, it seems like insects initially fly to the light of the lamp, the screen is just for them to land on it, and for some reason I think that many people do not sit on it at all.

In addition, according to one theory of the flight of insects to the light, they fly along the zvolvent to the center of the luminous point due to the fact that the light of the moon or sun comes to the Earth more evenly due to the distance of the light source, and also reflects from the earth's surface, and the rays from the light bulb are sharply reduced to one point.
And only one illuminated screen acc. it will not form a radial structure of rays and figs who will fly to it, that's the theory ))))

20.11.2012 19:19, alex017

Thanks!
Today comes the super-long-awaited universal DC-dc converter 3.7-24V (48W max) powered by 18650 lithium batteries! I almost lost hope of getting it.
A driver for diodes that can operate from such a converter over a wide configurable range of currents and voltages in transit.
It remains to make an effort and order LEDs. That's just in thought: order modern Cree'shki or 20W Chinese LED. The cost of a Chinese CD with a lens is very attractive, but the latter chips have a great return.
There is a problem: the driver without a radiator pulls 15W. How to unsolder the mikrukha and put it on the radiator, I do not know (I do not know how, or rather). From here, I can only plant 3sd and cover it with a common lens. I will order with a margin, maybe I can unsolder the lm from the board and put it on the radiator, so I will put 4 pcs.

This post was edited by alex017 - 19.01.2013 09: 59

21.11.2012 4:52, alex017

This thing weighs almost nothing. Without the 18650 itself-fluff in general.
Ordered on Ibey, accumulators for 5300mah-in the same place .
I have hot-melt glue, the problem is that the lm element, on which you need to put the radiator, is soldered to the signet, I can't tear it off (on another handkerchief burned by my carelessness - for training).
The converter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V...ME:L:OC:US:3160
Driver
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-35V-LM2596-DC-...ME:L:OC:US:3160
Batteries
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=5300m...attery&_sacat=0
It is those that I have 5300mah did not find for some reason.

Today I still bought a lens with отражателемhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221064092469

Diodes (several cree xml u2) will take from the bins.

It remains to decide on the radiator.
Here it would not hurt tips in terms of where to get a high-performance with a powerful 12V cooler with an area of 80x80mm and a price that does not bite. It is required to dissipate about 15W of heat power and that the radiator heating does not exceed 55 degrees.

This post was edited by alex017 - 21.11.2012 19: 37

Likes: 2

21.11.2012 21:28, Hierophis

Today comes the super-long-awaited universal DC-dc converter 3.7-24V (48W max) powered by 18650 lithium batteries!

Of course, I apologize, but judging by the appearance of the parts of this converter, it can give out 48W approximately like this tape recorder

It seems to me that in long-term mode, a stable 10W will give out, approximately like the average consumption of an average laptop.
I recommend that you turn on the load and check what happens.

I have a Soviet converter +5V +24V (12+12-) ok 20W for industrial computers such as DVK, it is the size of two matchboxes, but there is a large ferrite transformer and powerful, you can see field-effect transistors, it probably weighs 100 grams

And here there are two transformers approximately as on 5W pulse charges.
Or is it still a Chinese economic and electrical miracle?

21.11.2012 23:30, Bad Den

This thing weighs almost nothing. Without the 18650 itself-fluff in general.
Ordered on Ibey, accumulators for 5300mah-in the same place .
I have hot-melt glue, the problem is that the lm element, on which you need to put the radiator, is soldered to the signet, I can't tear it off (on another handkerchief burned by my carelessness - for training).
The converter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V...ME:L:OC:US:3160
Driver
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-35V-LM2596-DC-...ME:L:OC:US:3160
Batteries
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=5300m...attery&_sacat=0
It is those that I have 5300mah did not find for some reason.

To hell with diodes, there's a better way

With this converter and high-pressure batteries (6000 It is possible to connect UV tubes (as well as daylight), without a heavy lead battery, which, moreover, they strive to withdraw at the aeroport

22.11.2012 4:55, alex017

I will honestly say that I am going to create a backup power supply system with 400ah accumulators, an inverter and a generator in case of an emergency, which is not clear why (for most)

I bought this converter to be able to connect equipment and leave it for a long time (to support the life of captured marine life). Angry hotel workers sometimes pull the plugs out of the sockets, so I need equipment that works for a very long time on direct current, and it needs to be powered with something.

This converter will prevent a full discharge of the batteries at least, and also charge them decently, i.e. an additional charger, a wide range of voltage changes. I will definitely conduct experiments, how can I do without it? If it doesn't work, I'll just buy a box for the batteries purely for the sake of fishing, but protection against over - discharge would still be needed.

Samsung batteries on the link - 3000 mAh total, and I have 5000 mAh.

Lumens are suitable only as UV sources, and even then-only from a UV sterilizer, there is a lot of UV. It is better not to use ordinary lumens. More than 500lm from the diode is quite realistic to get, even without particularly straining yourself, you can get 1500lm of light in the direction of the forest)) Next to it, you can hang a UV sterilizer lamp, but you will need more batteries.

I have a 90W laptop. I would have been weaker, I would have tried to turn it on from this miniature block, but I'm afraid of burning it.

This post was edited by alex017 - 22.11.2012 19: 31