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Features of light catching

Community and ForumEntomological collectionsFeatures of light catching

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23.11.2012 10:22, okoem

  
Today I still bought a lens with a reflector http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=221064092469

Diodes (several cree xml u2) will take from the bins.

"I'm not sure that such a lens is necessary." Rather, the opposite is true.

Oooh, well then I'm glad! Because my 3-4 diodes will shine like the sun in comparison to this!

They will shine, the question is how long? If your battery is 5 Ah (probably less in reality), and the current of the cree xml u2 diodes is 3 Amps, then the operating time will be about 1.5 hours.

23.11.2012 11:04, alex017

For each consumer - its own icon, i.e. for diodes and a UV lamp-separately.
Diodes to drive at the maximum current of 3A-barbarism. Dam 1.5 A. At this current, the return is 500-something lumens from the diode (I don't remember exactly, I counted it a long time ago), I have a 100W backlight at home on such a CD and such a current.
I'll buy some extra batteries.
It remains to buy a UV lamp and bought a 4 pin compact http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=350518306696.
Convenient to transport! Everything! Now build and test. Yes, but you have to wait at least six months weep.gif

This post was edited by alex017 - 23.11.2012 13: 07
Likes: 1

24.11.2012 20:12, alex017

Today was the first experiment. Through a miniature 200W 12V inverter, I turned on a 9W 220V savings bank. Measured current-0.8 A. It takes only 20 minutes on a full battery charge. Full omno batteries. Damn, what are the good ones?? So the problem surfaced!

11W compact, powered by the EPRA, pulled out of the savings bank, did not light up, there was a prolonged start-up at a current of 2.3 A. 6W ac aquarium pump did not start (here the inverter may be to blame).

It is almost unambiguously clear (99%) that for a purchased UV compact, you need to buy boxes for batteries and power them.

This post was edited by alex017 - 24.11.2012 20: 28

24.11.2012 21:23, Hierophis

If you need to have a really working converter for lum. lamps, then you need to collect something like this
http://radiomaster.com.ua/index.php?newsid=1593

otherwise, all these sold miniature inverters on 200W.. they leave much to be desired. And although you can connect the CFL to this thing directly, it is not economical.
You need to remove all the giblets from the board, leaving only the approval block, you can use the scheme from this article
http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/48302/Energ...LL_chast_1.html

And then it will work with an efficiency of up to 90%, according to the idea smile.gif

25.11.2012 10:11, alex017

I'll build it myself, then I'll have time to grow old.
Yes, often ready-made equipment - G. It'll do for catching insects.
And specifically for this case. A current of 0.8 A on the low side indicates an efficiency of about 0.9.
This particular dc-ac converter was simply purchased earlier and made it possible to load the dc-dc converter and find out the quality of the batteries. Its further use is planned only during testing.

25.11.2012 14:01, alex017

Everything was powered through such an inverter
picture: _________200__.jpg
The current from 9W of the savings bulb is 0.85 A when ignited, up to 0.95 A when ignited, and 0.77 A at steady state (on the low side of 12V). The efficiency is quite high - 0.97!
However, even a super low-power 6W pump does not start. Oh, that's a pity. Well, okay, that's not the point here.
The conclusion from this story is this: there is no point in buying expensive military equipment. Such an inverter and the usual epra for ll or broken out of savings banks-are perfectly combined.

25.11.2012 17:02, okoem

the inverter and the usual epra for ll or broken out of savings banks-are perfectly combined.

Maybe it's easier to buy a 12-volt savings bank?
http://www.multiwood.ru/print/energysaving_lamps.htm?print=1

25.11.2012 17:26, alex017

Personally, I don't like savings accounts in their form. Light inside the lamp... Ordinary lumks are the best, compacts are the best, everything else is G.
I took a compact because it's easier to carry and pack it in a suitcase. If I were fishing in Russia, I would take a linear lamp.

25.11.2012 17:34, Hierophis

Nifiga itself, 5W 12V-15 evrov!

And the inverter that you can see in the picture is an analog of what I have on the link, + probably without high-frequency diodes at the output. Of course, such efficiency is always high. But no motors that require 50 Hz will work from it wink.gif
I would have disassembled it, connected the CFL to it directly and would not have suffered)))

25.11.2012 18:46, alex017

In general, I do not understand the joke of shining CFLs, if only because it is more reasonable to take visible light from diodes! And for that matter, I even have a ready-made non-dimmable dc driver 12V 1A, 4 diodes available, only there is no radiator. Such a 12W light bulb will give a guaranteed 1600lm of light at the output, this is a decent searchlight!
And I also bought a 24vdc inverter epr. Where does it make sense to redo the inverter?!
But to redo it for running engines is a completely different matter!
I repeat that the point of using an inverter is simply the load on the converter.
By the way, you would have doubled up when you saw how its dc-dc converter internals are made: I can't understand how the manufacturer stuffed so many elements into such a volume!
And at a current of about 0.8 A, there is practically no heating.

This post was edited by alex017 - 25.11.2012 18: 47

10.12.2012 16:15, Hierophis

While you're theorizing here, I just did IT wink.gif

I and sipytal are already in different modes smile.gif

This is a DC/DC converter that is regulated in small limits by the output voltage(by selecting the pulse width), made using a slightly modified version of this one
http://radiomaster.com.ua/index.php?newsid=1593
However, changes are only in terms of increasing power and reliability..

The parameters are as follows (based on the IRFZ46N keys used, or from a 400W computer power supply)- maximum long-term power of 300 W, output voltage for connecting CFL 360V(as needed), efficiency of at least 90%.

When the CFL operates at 38 W, the current is 3.7 A at the input, the power consumed by the light bulb is approx. 40 W, and no parts in the diagram are heated at all.

When operating at a power of approx. 250W, the current consumption is approximately 23A.
But I have measured all this from the power source so far, and there the voltage sinks at this current.
At this power, at a room temperature of about +25C, the radiator becomes slightly warm.

Now it remains to zabatat the box, and you can make such a flashlight)))
Likes: 1

10.12.2012 16:41, okoem

While you're theorizing here, I just did IT wink.gif

The new is a well-forgotten old - http://molbiol.ru/forums/index.php?showtop...ndpost&p=826252

10.12.2012 17:04, Hierophis

Yes, the same scheme itself, only I did it based on maximum efficiency and power, when connecting a 38W housekeeper at the output of about 360V, I get it on this scheme.
The same goes for connecting 26W. At XX, approximately 380V.

This is due to the fact that I carefully studied a couple of forums that discussed this scheme, there are already up to hundreds of pages in some placessmile.gif, and took into account all the amendments.
The main thing is a fairly capacious capacitor at the input, a paradox, but it is needed, and a special one at that, with a low inductance. Ordinary ones explode.
I put 9 capacitors with a capacity of 3300mkf from the comp. board from the processor power stabilizer, at the output-I need exactly capacitors from the computer power supply, special pulse ones, I put a pair of 200V 330mkf, the width and frequency of the pulses need to be adjusted for a specific trance, put protection-rc chains to block reverse emissions for reliable operation on XX, wiring on the board on the low side, I made a 2.5 kV mm wire. As a result, if you take it to the maximum, then you can safely connect 400W, and real and not Chinese)))

In general, this is a very good thing, real parameters, high efficiency, some with a very scrupulous measurement was up to 95% at R ok 100W, but this is true with drivers, without them like 90-92% max.
It is advisable not to use a multiplier for high power, but tests were shown with capacitors from the PSU ka kpokazali-250W is normal at a voltage of approx. 260V with a multiplier(connected resistors).

PS
If it is still accepted, describe the cost, I bought parts for 25 hryvnias somewhere, I found the rest at home.

But if you estimate the purchase from scratch, then you probably need to count on 250 UAH, taking into account that you need to buy in a computer repair shop, or approx. 30 pupaars, especially expensive capacitors, exactly what you need, simpler ones are cheaper, but there will be no effect ..
But for 300W converter is also normal smile.gif

This post was edited by Hierophis - 12/10/2012 17: 18
Likes: 1

10.12.2012 18:49, okoem

ka kpokazali tests - 250W normally holds at a voltage of approx. 260V with a multiplier (connected resistors).

The details are clear.
But why do you need such a powerful converter?

10.12.2012 19:10, Hierophis

Well, in general, yes, I plan to use it with a 12V 7Ah battery, in this case, indeed, it makes no sense to take a light bulb larger than 26W.

But, I'm now going to test the connection of DRLki to it, this can be done if you take the output from recess, put an RF capacitor as ballast, and then, if it is possible to connect to a car power source, then why not light up three or four housekeepers on 38W or DRLku in 100-200W mode, and be sure that the converter can withstand this currentsmile.gif
The stock in this case is not particularly smile.giflarge
Likes: 1

10.12.2012 19:41, Hierophis

Ta ))) Power and strength smile.gif

DRL 400 in 40W mode, with a resonant capacitor, etc. from 38W housekeeper.

In fact, from this converter, any LL will light up, and tubular up to 80vtki, just need to switch off acc. choke and res. capacitor.
Likes: 1

10.12.2012 20:26, Hierophis

In general, both tubular lamps and incandescent lamps are lit, of course.
About EFFICIENCY - after setting the current at a voltage of 15V 2.3 A, at the output at a voltage of 370V current 0.09 A, a light bulb at 28W.
34.5 W at the input, 33.5 W at the output!
Likes: 1

11.12.2012 7:03, alex017

Well done! It's cool! Just watch your eyes.

11.12.2012 11:03, Hierophis

Yes, I'm shocked at how people catch this pricked drl, yesterday I turned on 40W mode for 5 minutes, and I tried not to look too hard, so everything in the room was filled with the smell of ozone and my eyes burned for two hours afterwards.
And plants from it die completely for a couple of hours of exposure.
Even DRL in a normal glass shell normally needs to be hung at least 5 m from a person, the retina also burns out from UVC!!!

In general, it is optimal to throw out the internal inverter of the housekeeper and connect only a bulb with a throttle and a capacitor, so efficiency increases and reliability increases, and most importantly - brightness!
I actually did this thing with a secret desire... for catfish fishing ! )) At night, how convenient it is, you turn on the 38W lamp and change the bait and do not steam with a flashlight)

11.12.2012 16:41, alex017

Et you now in shock, and I years 10-12nazad made a craft for the physicist from the technician from the crushed 150w drlok. This craft was in the form of a textolite with a screwed-on cartridge, throttle and fork. The cartridge was fitted with a tinplate structure with a sheet of asbestos inserted inside and a 10x40mm hole made at the arc level.
I only turned on this lamp for a few minutes! Otherwise, it smelled like ozone!
How to catch a 250W lamp I just don't understand! This is a natural nightmare. The street stinks slightly, of course, but ugh...I'm thinking where to put the uv from 18 uv compact....you'll have to cover one side with foil. My eyes are more important))
By the way, did you solder the epra according to the scheme you suggested earlier?
Of course, I will not solder, I have already bought a ready-made epra for 1tr.

This post was edited by alex017 - 12/11/2012 16: 41

11.12.2012 16:55, Hierophis

To connect DRL, tubular LL to this converter, you do not need any EPRA at all, everything is connected directly to recess via an RF choke of the desired rating.

There is a change at the output of 160V 80kHz, from this everything will light up, starting from the bulb from the housekeeper and ending with MG and DNaT smile.gif

11.12.2012 17:13, alex017

Well, I do not catch on the split DRL and carry dozens of kg of accumulators I will not, so I bought a low-power EPRA.
There is also one important factor. This is the time. Every DIY project is too expensive! It makes sense to make it if there are some special requirements or the cost is too high. I, for example, soldered something like a relay controller for precise control and automatic lowering of the level in an aquarium with sensors at several points of the system to protect against various unpleasant accidents. This made sense, because the finished gizmo would be prohibitively expensive and would have a controller, i.e. a microprocessor, which I consider unacceptable in such a technique.

And yet, according to what scheme did you collect it? Write down the wiring of the board here, it will be useful for people (probably).

11.12.2012 17:48, Hierophis

I wrote the link, and Okoyem also did the same thing:
http://radiomaster.com.ua/index.php?newsid=1593
It is not necessary to make a printed circuit board, it is easier to bump parts.

Is DIY too expensive because it takes time? Dooo)))
And hang on the forums - it doesn't take up precious time wink.gif
This scheme is assembled within 3 hours, and the details in the basic version cost a little, this is if there are no skills in radio engineering at all, then yes.

11.12.2012 19:02, alex017

Sps.
Pralno, sitting on the forums for a few minutes-rest. And in between, I water my plantations, take care of the aquarium, collect an LED lamp for it, collect automation and some gadgets, sometimes I don't even reach the computer. I don't do anything else in the evening and on Sat-Sun. Really. Well, there are all sorts of little things-not counting.

15.12.2012 15:31, Hierophis

I bought today another set of parts for the converter, I will make an ultra-compact version based on a transformer from a 150W power supply. About the size of a matchbox. Then I will write what is the difference in efficiency, if everything works.

15.12.2012 18:22, alex017

It's good that at least someone decided to experiment, otherwise everyone is dragging a generator with them, even somehow boring!

16.12.2012 8:05, antlook

Previously, DRL was used to illuminate highways, which were later replaced with more energy-efficient ones with a greenish-yellowish glow spectrum. It was often possible to pick up a variety of insects under the lanterns. Now there is practically none, which is not due to the power of the source, the height of its location above the earth's surface, or even the radiation spectrum. They often simply don't exist!!! It is remembered as a parallel to the mass fishing for an ordinary light bulb for a car headlight with a spread sheet on the hood for convenience of preliminary analysis. As the main factors in this regard, in addition to the presence of the objects themselves, the following are listed in descending order of importance:
the presence of a minimally urbanized landscape;
windlessness, the presence of even a weak wind strongly affects the mobility of photoxene insects, this is also typical for other fishing methods, etc.;
the absence of the moon, the full moon also affects the mass of summer, which, however, can be partially compensated by cloud cover;
the presence of a stronger light source in the vicinity, and flying insects in its direction will still be intercepted by a closer one standing in the way;
it is also important to have an optimal temperature and summer period, which may differ significantly in different species, some species may be noted even in the presence of the first or small frosts;
the location of the trap depends on the terrain, it is still better to take into account the direction of natural migrations of the considered insects in the area.

16.12.2012 11:00, okoem

In general, I agree, but...
According to my observations, on absolutely windless nights, butterflies can almost not fly, instead of them, all sorts of midges fly in countless numbers. At least in the steppe.
On some nights, it can be more or less a good day and under the moon.
Sometimes butterflies try to fly in a strong wind, but they are simply blown away from the screen. Although, I would say that the most unfavorable, even fatal factor is the wind. In addition, it is an unusually cold night for a particular season of the year.
In general, it often happens not to understand what they (babochkamm) lack-it can be warm, wet, cloudy, and quiet, and there is no moon - but there is no summer...

16.12.2012 23:18, Hierophis

Made today's less powerful version, if you do not make a rectifier and a multiplier, then with matchboxes it would work. But it will work that way.
With such a radiator, it works normally up to 50W, then it gets very hot.
Efficiency-input 34W, output 30W, approx. 88%.
By the way, the efficiency very much depends on which chip to insert, they somehow differ both among analogues and among themselves, I myself observed this and read about it. It seems that they write that the Soviet equivalent is the best smile.gif

16.12.2012 23:23, Коллекционер

Will 2e DRLcs work if they are connected to the same throttle?
and how can you safely remove this white bulb from the lamp (because it gives more UV radiation?)

This post was edited by Collector - 12/16/2012 23: 27

17.12.2012 0:23, Hierophis

They will work, but still at the power that the throttle is designed for.
And to remove the flask is simple - to break it. But then you will have to catch with glasses with regular glasses wink.gif

17.12.2012 8:09, Нозима

sell lamp Mercury lamp Osram HBO 100 W / 2 20.5 V 100W SFa for$ 300 in Tashkent if you need call +998901685003

17.12.2012 8:10, alex017

Wow, what's the price for?

17.12.2012 8:56, Aaata

sell lamp mercury lamp Osram HBO 100 W / 2 20,5 V 100W SFa for$ 300 in Tashkent if you need call +998901685003



Wow, what's the price for?

This is probably an opt-in store. The number of cars should be specified.

17.12.2012 10:04, Bad Den

Wow, what's the price for?

Well, it costs about $ 200...

17.12.2012 10:47, alex017

Yes, I did.
But to catch on such an exclusive - in my opinion, it will be fat.
And at home, no one probably keeps equipment with her...

still, it is not clear why the mark-up is 100ue, this is not a small amount at all.

This post was edited by alex017 - 12/17/2012 10: 50

17.12.2012 12:10, Коллекционер

But then you will have to catch in glasses with regular glasses wink.gif

eek.gif

17.12.2012 12:20, gumenuk

I have been using 250-watt throttle-free lamps for several years now.
I was convinced in practice: years do not depend on the lamp. Every year since 2005, it just gets smaller.
The lamp is quite dangerous - I have already tanned and burned my cornea several times. It worked when the lamp was located at a distance of about 2 meters. Therefore, you should be careful and do not stay close for a long time (once more than 3 minutes) (and glasses will not help).

17.12.2012 12:58, Alexandr Zhakov

  
The lamp is quite dangerous - I have already tanned and burned my cornea several times. It worked when the lamp was located at a distance of about 2 meters. Therefore, you should be careful and do not stay close for a long time (once more than 3 minutes) (and glasses will not help).

Are you talking about a car-free (DRV) or a pricked DRL?

17.12.2012 13:15, gumenuk

The lamp is not split, throttle-free (and DRV or DRL - I don't know)

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