Features of light catching

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29.01.2013 20:16, alex017

May. Expensive, with a special counter.
You can do it cheap. With a tester, you measure the current of the connected device and leave the battery to plow to death, then you will find out about the ah.
Another method, however, is based on the experience of using batteries: if a freshly brought battery is charged for say 12 hours, then it will work tolerably, and if it is charged in 1-2 hours, then it is a waste one.
What makes you want to go blue? This is fucking dumb China. Although to advise something here is a finger in the sky. Protruding wires will bend, break, even xs that. You need a collapsible unit where you can disassemble, solder, and so on. Maintainability is a great thing. I don't recommend blue ones.

By the way, you should count on a faulty toggle switch! I'll take palyanik with me....)))

This post was edited by alex017 - 29.01.2013 20: 18

30.01.2013 12:04, alex017

I would like to make a number of assumptions.
1. Charging time is a mystery. What it can be understood only after the purchase.
2. Battery design. It is clear that it is a typesetting system. It is dialed from lithium cells of 3.7 V nominal, 4.2-4.25 V no-load voltage and it is also a charger.
Now imagine the situation. 12.6 V charging voltage indicates a series connection of 3 cells with an idle voltage of 12.6 V, as a result, when measured with a voltmeter, the battery will give 12V, and when used, the voltage will very quickly drop to 3.6-3.7 V.
3. The cut-off voltage, i.e. the minimum is 10.8 V, which means cutting off the load at a voltage of 3.6 V per cell, while the minimum voltage of a lithium battery is up to 2.5 V, i.e. up to this figure, the battery is able to produce a normal current and hold the load, but we are interested in 10.5 V in the case of ready-made devices, because undervoltage protection is triggered at this value.
4. I strongly doubt the effectiveness of these PSUs. Very very much!
The cost of such a device for 12V 10Ah should be about 1.5 hundred green.
5. You can only squeeze the acc to the limit with a homemade device with a cut-off threshold below about 10V.
6. Cheap and simple power supply problem can not be solved and even try is not worth it. You need to think about some expensive and modern traction lithium polymer, by the way explosive, accumulators and sculpt the lamp starter yourself.
7. Practice will show, but I think that the battery I bought is just a worthless toy at the level of 3x 18650 1200mAh batteries with incorrect calculation of AH summation when connected in series instead of writing the real 1000-1200ah, because ah is added up only when connected in parallel.
Hence, the indicated figure in Ah should be divided by 3 for this Chinese guano.

30.01.2013 15:48, Bad Den

I would like to make a number of assumptions.
1. Charging time is a mystery. What it can be understood only after the purchase.
2. Battery design. It is clear that it is a typesetting system. It is dialed from lithium cells of 3.7 V nominal, 4.2-4.25 V no-load voltage and it is also a charger.
Now imagine the situation. 12.6 V charging voltage indicates a series connection of 3 cells with an idle voltage of 12.6 V, as a result, when measured with a voltmeter, the battery will give 12V, and when used, the voltage will very quickly drop to 3.6-3.7 V.
3. The cut-off voltage, i.e. the minimum is 10.8 V, which means cutting off the load at a voltage of 3.6 V per cell, while the minimum voltage of a lithium battery is up to 2.5 V, i.e. up to this figure, the battery is able to produce a normal current and hold the load, but we are interested in 10.5 V in the case of ready-made devices, because undervoltage protection is triggered at this value.
4. I strongly doubt the effectiveness of these PSUs. Very very much!
The cost of such a device for 12V 10Ah should be about 1.5 hundred green.
5. You can only squeeze the acc to the limit with a homemade device with a cut-off threshold below about 10V.
6. Cheap and simple power supply problem can not be solved and even try is not worth it. You need to think about some expensive and modern traction lithium polymer, by the way explosive, accumulators and sculpt the lamp starter yourself.
7. Practice will show, but I think that the battery I bought is just a worthless toy at the level of 3x 18650 1200mAh batteries with incorrect calculation of AH summation when connected in series instead of writing the real 1000-1200ah, because ah is added up only when connected in parallel.
Hence, the indicated figure in Ah should be divided by 3 for this Chinese guano.

I bought this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=170937990572
Let's see what we get

30.01.2013 16:26, alex017

Don't take it, you'll regret it later. So much money going nowhere. Better score now. With the money you spent, you could get a really powerful acc. I wanted one too, but I don't believe them, you know?
How to push so much Ah into such a box? Unreal!!
Look link there is the same frequency response and the dimensions are much larger than 124x79x32.
See further my link to the test of 18650 accumulators. From this test, it is clearly clear that one good 18650 battery fits 2.5 Ah, and such a battery costs well $8 on the market. That is, for the volume occupied by this battery - the limit! Its dimensions are 68 mm long and 18.5 mm in diameter.
In the case of my link purely prikidochno fit one battery in a width of 79 mm and 2 in a height of 32 mm (in reality, there are "barrels", not 18650e, I'm too lazy to look for suitable ones), in the length of 6 batteries. In total, you get 12 pcs or 4 groups of 3 batteries. The capacity of the group is equal to the battery capacity, in total 2. 5x4=10Ah.
Everything seems to fit together. Except for the cost. Why the fuck do Chinese people give you presents?
They will not put there elements with a capacity of 2.5 Ah!!! It's expensive! The cost of the device would be about a hundred ue, but not lower by 2 times, not lower in any way!
But I took an element with a super-good, almost unbearable return for basement Chinks!
Think about it!!

30.01.2013 19:08, alex017

What about the fact that the question should contain 50% of the answer, eh?
Why do I need to search for this image?
DRL
is a regular 55Ah battery. What kind of technology it has in this case is not important at all.
Well, then everything is simple. By the way, does your inverter produce pure sine? Without a pure sine, I would not have tried to turn on the throttle, xs what happens.
However, you can try it.
You are looking for a 50A ammeter, connect it to the power supply circuit of the inverter and measure the no-load current simply from the address)) Then you turn on the load and measure the current consumed by the inverter (on the low side, it is visible). You get the number of amps, for example 30. Divide by the number of ampere hours and you get about 1h 50min. With epra - longer.
Just fuck all these perversions?
The starting current and power are twice as high as the operating parameters.
Own consumption of the inverter is approximately up to 10% of the nominal value.
The power of the inverter must be close to the lamp power, taking into account the start-up.
You're in a car, or you won't be able to carry such a thing.
Buy a generator and don't worry.

The DRV will definitely light up, regardless of the sine and the trigger is not necessary. A sump lamp. On light output-shit. Without the bulb, you can't just light it, and with the bulb, it doesn't make sense.

If you want to use accumulators, switch to modern sources such as LEDs, which eat very little, but give a lot of light, for example, the light output of drv250w and 50W sd is the same, and it will shine for 10-11h. Only need a driver and an inverter for 150-200W. Everything is compact, well, except that the battery is not compact.
Stick to this ll from the UV sterilizer and you will get an analog of drl. Only consume it will be minuscule, again for the night enough.

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