Features of light catching

Everything is known in sranenie.
On Liion, I have already spent an amount of 5 times more than 400-600r.
Meaning and savings? Well, what is the point of launching airplanes into the sky? Also a hobby, though not mine, but expensive to the point of horror. Hobby - that's what a hobby is))
If it was so serious and comprehensive, then I would buy some cool battery or take a generator, put it on a cart and ride a rubber boat like before.
For 600r you can go 4 times to the dining room and eat without frills......

So why this controversy? My task is to test these light sources in the field.
First of all, I have batteries,so why should I buy others for testing?Just to buy something?
Secondly, you yourself write that more or less good Liion should still be searched. And here you don't need to look for anything.
I repeat, I want to check the catchability of light sources first of all. And only then, with at least some positive result, to understand about increasing the capacity and reducing the weight of power sources.

Let's better not argue,everyone's views are different anyway and it's not worth it))

Yes, the main point of that is to argue, to show that you have made an important contribution to the arrow of consumption )))
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otbmf7qnuV4

Here's how I promised, I spread

There are such nuances - the permanent one in case of using only recess must be unsoldered!
All capacitors must be taken at a voltage of at least 1 kV!
They are in the same housekeeper, in fact - we take only the part of the housekeeper that actually lights the lamp.

Well, the picture shows an example, where the converter includes a housekeeper for 26W, LL for 20W, and a soldering iron for 75W, current approx. 9A Radiator cold)

PS
I look here, and on the 47nF capacitor that I used, 250V is written, and I took it from the housekeeper, but this is an exception, usually there at 400V, occasionally at 1kV, in any case, the higher the voltage, the more reliable. But the one that is on 2nF must necessarily be on 1kV!

This post was edited by Hierophis-02/01/2013 22: 32

Well, everything seems to be more or less clear,but still there are a couple of questions.

As for the constant-you seem to have implemented both it and recess? That is, you can not unsolder and put the toggle switch? Trans little from the housekeeper you mean who has the starter in the basement? Should I disassemble it so that the power of the housekeeper corresponds, for example, to the power of the lumitube?

Here is my handkerchief, the trance on it was somehow rewound by a friend, since the native winding did not work, half the rewind gave out about 360 V as it should. Did the rewind affect recess?



And another question,do you have a radiator with a cooler on the side,transistors are planted on it? I have a small radiator -in the photo you can see if it will be enough?

This post was edited by tiger33 - 01.02.2013 23: 07

I have a small radiator -in the photo you can see if it will be enough?

I have a 15 watt lamp perfectly pulled without a radiator.
In general, turn it on and find out if it's enough or not. If it gets hot in a couple of minutes, then it won't be enough.

Well, yes, it will be necessary to buy and gut an 18W energy-saving battery. Or is 20 also suitable?

By the way,if you haven't already written-a good option for terminals on lum tubes is tubular contacts from the power connectors of computer power supplies. They only need to be removed from the plastic,soldered the wire and enclosed exactly along the edge in a heat shrink. I have so poklyucheny lamps in the aquarium lid. Up to 4cm of water, naturally splashes and evaporation, there is no protection in the glass ida. For more than 3 years, the flight is normal.

This post was edited by tiger33 - 01.02.2013 23: 24

Yes, I put a toggle switch to permanently disable it. the bottom line is that when the constant is without load, there is a very high voltage, it can break through the capacitors, and in general, why is this necessary - 360V is constantly idle on the capacitors.

Yes, that "trans" is exactly how you need to take it out, only it's not a trans but a throttle, it has only two pins, and 4 pins - you need to notice where the pins are soldered or call. If you take it from the housekeeper, then everything else is there - both the capacitor on 47 and on 2, everything is soldered there exactly as I drew on the diagram - that is, just take it and use it.
Namely, the trance in the housekeeper is a small ring.
In general, the housekeeper is essentially the same converter as we have, with a throttle and without a constant. So tcho with a slight movement of the soldering iron, the working board from the housekeeper turns into a power supply unit for any number of volts

Your board is perfectly made! And rewind the rules! Trans is a powerful some, under 500W, capacitors - generally evil Look carefully with ettm-they keep the charge for a long time, if tipanet it will not seem enough... A radiator of up to 100W should be enough. I put the cooler so that up to 300W could be on.

tiger33, and there are no options to get the throttle? You can wind about 100 turns of 0.1 mm wire on any rod ferrite, it should be enough. I feel sorry for the housekeeper!
PS
I look, there is a resistor for discharging capacitors adapted I took care of your safety without a resistor, so they keep the charge for a month! Need to solder it)

This post was edited by Hierophis - 02/01/2013 23: 34

Bottom line-we take a break from the side of the trance where there are two legs-we break out/wind up the throttle. If we break out - we call the pins and use those that are connected for soldering. when using both constants and recess, we hang a toggle switch on each one.
Did I get it right?

Bottom line-we take a break from the side of the trance where there are two legs-we break out/wind up the throttle. If we break out - we call the pins and use those that are connected for soldering. Donor-a lamp with a power not lower than that of the connected tube. When using both constants and recess, we hang a toggle switch on each one.
Did I get it right?

This post was edited by tiger33 - 01.02.2013 23: 42

Yes, only-the lamp power is not higher, lower-just possible-just the tube itself will shine dimmer, but higher if you plug in, well, let's say the throttle is from 28W-ki, then the 18W tube will glow with white heat In general, they say that this is permissible - "overclocking lamps", but the service life drops.

And toggle one! I have two, because the second one is 12V turns off, and then the acc is dumb to the wiring. podstoedinyat - can knock inductance I first connect the wiring, then on. big toggle switch.

It is clear, that is, you have one gap on the plus side of the battery,the other on the plus side of the output constant.

And now I would like to hear some explanations: why are so many elements stuffed in the purchased epra 12V, when 3 PCs could have done?
In order to avoid overclocking the lamps?

Everyone forgot the little moment. In such a weak white light, not much will arrive. This applies to both diodes and tubes. Hence, in order not to waste completely wasted nights, you should also use a lamp from the fu-sterilizer.

C1 47pF you have is consistent with the throttle. And on a permanent basis, this does not break the chain? In message 2606, is it not soldered parallel to the throttle?

Roma, can you measure the jump in inrush current and current consumption? I wonder how much the currents correspond to the rated power.

DC-AC converter is it possible to seriously shrink it in size and adapt it to the power of 10-20W for rebuilding a broken ice lamp for esl?

This post was edited by alex017 - 02.02.2013 08: 45

As for weak white light , I will have an 18 W UV tube, plus a strapping of LEDs with a light of at least 100 lm/w.
Even in the city, the SUN was already flying quite well, provided that there were several street lamps and a lot of other light 100 meters from the window.
I looked at the cost of high-quality UV aquarium lamps.....it can certainly be cheaper via eBay ,but I don't want to bother with it. I do not understand there that yes as, especially pa pala is not present.

Do you have a black pipe like this? This is g..
And it catches well on black ones?? Then I imagine kk will be cool to fly on a uv tube from a uv-ster!! Cool!

There are a lot of photo reports about fishing with similar tubes, and not only Russian amateurs.
I understand that UV sterilizers are tougher? Then good luck to your eyes. Of course, I understand that many people here are also caught on stab drl, but I don't need such experiments.
And in general, according to your messages, if you look-others have g..., and you have everything cool, everything is light and energy-intensive....

Yes, I'm afraid of UV, so I'm going to put the UV lamp so that I don't have to look at it, i.e. above the screen.
In the UV sterilizer, the UV is tougher and it is exorbitantly larger, so I think that it is cooler, but what is wrong?
How can these black lamps be WRONG if you can just look at their "light"? Try it, look at the split DRL or welding. Hares will be caught especially large, I have already caught and more than once from welding: a few hours of torrential flow of tears are guaranteed...

Light and energy-intensive-are you talking about lithium batteries?
In general, it is so. Only it's not very easy to buy them.
Today I was in that store in Perm, where we have 18650 batteries.

Prices are impressive!

That's exactly what the prices are impressive for. And about UV-I understand that such a tube can be better, but the difficulties of purchasing it and the high cost in local online stores (from 1500 rubles) somehow repels.
I am a beginner amateur, and therefore I will not immediately throw myself into the abyss. first, a sample with the available equipment.
And then it can turn out as in the field of art, to which I partly belong - a person wanted to learn, say, painting, and decided to immediately buy a sketch book made of walnut and a set of expensive Dutch paints. Only it will not help him to master the skill faster)

And I think that it is not just any result that is important for a beginner, but an encouraging, extremely positive one.
Don't you have a visa card? Sign up for ebay and paypal, buy cheaper!
In extreme cases, I can help in the form of an interest-free intermediary.

This post was edited by alex017 - 02.02.2013 18: 21

As for weak white light , I will have an 18 W UV tube, plus a strapping of LEDs with a light of at least 100 lm/w.

And what can I power the tube from? I was just thinking about her, too.

That's it, the question is gone.

This post was edited by Wave Storm - 02.02.2013 20: 43

Duc a little higher huge correspondence on this subject.....Lots of opportunities. From ready-made options to self-made tools of any degree of complexity.

By the way, I have to admit that I again screwed up with the delivery time!!
I'll have to buy it battery 12V 9ah what was advised here. What cheap charger can I use for it?

With an LED lamp, everything is even easier. It simply clings to the PSU, more correctly-to the driver, the driver - to the battery. The main thing is to know the lamp parameters.

If there is a short-circuit protection, then you can not be afraid...
Last season, I caught it on diodes, connected it to the acc. directly.
[attachmentid()=159095]

okoem, and the LED strip, as I understand it, you had like like this? What kind of battery did you use and how many hours did it last? And the length of the tape was completely all 5 m?

okoem, and the LED strip, as I understand it, you had like like this? What kind of battery did you use and how many hours did it last? And the length of the tape was completely all 5 m?

Yes, the tape is like this, but without moisture protection. For my purposes, this is unnecessary.
The battery is 7.5 A / h. The tape length is 1.3 m. It lasts for 6.5 hours.
But, now I would rather take 2 m of tape, so that there is more brightness and less glow time. 6.5 hours for one evening is overkill.

  
But, now I would rather take 2 m of tape, so that there is more brightness and less glow time. 6.5 hours for one evening is overkill.

Don't butterflies fly all night?

Question to Hierophis

An amateur radio friend said that if you take a change from trance from this board, its frequency will be about 20 kHz, and at this frequency the lamp will quickly die..is he right?

Don't butterflies fly all night?

It happens that all night, but more often only the first few hours.
I don't usually sit up all night.
If there is a good flight, then in 3-4 hours a lot of things will arrive, especially in a brighter light. And if there is no summer, then at least the whole night will shine-there will be no sense. Especially if the light is less bright.

Different species fly at different times. Some at dusk and early in the night, some after midnight, some before dawn. But a significant part also flies all night long.

Different species fly at different times. Some at dusk and early in the night, some after midnight, some before dawn. But a significant part also flies all night long.

Can you give us some examples of species that fly at different times?

This post was edited by niyaz - 02.02.2013 23: 52

Different species fly at different times. Some at dusk and early in the night, some after midnight, some before dawn. But a significant part also flies all night long.

I generally agree. However, in my experience of fishing, it often flies well at the beginning of the night. Later, it gets colder, dew falls and the summer subsides.
But, it happens that it flies all night. But I've never seen it start to fly in the evening and start to fly in the middle of the night. Although, Z. F. Klyuchko writes that this happens.

Can you give us some examples of species that fly at different times?

For example, some dippers fly mostly in the dead of night. And baggies - at dusk and a little at the beginning of the night.

Cocoonworms mostly fly at dusk and early night, Saturnia males at dusk, females after midnight. cuculia after midnight, even after one o'clock, peak at 2-3 o'clock. crested bears and more before dawn. the summer time of females and males of the same species is also different. At night, the temperature can increase even in the dead of night, if the temperature does not fall or rises.

Is it the same in the tropics? Do you need to sit all night or ....?
And at what time to start turning on the lamp?

This post was edited by alex017 - 03.02.2013 07: 15

Question to Hierophis

An amateur radio friend said that if you take a change from trance from this board, its frequency will be about 20 kHz, and at this frequency the lamp will quickly die..is he right?

Come on! Here it's my turn to be surprised
Why does the lamp "die", just the opposite, the higher the frequency, the better!
Well, at least you can read this advertisement
http://energoeffekt-plus.ru/produkcijaiobo...lektronnye-pra/
All e-balasts and housekeepers have a high frequency)

And in this converter, the default is not 20kHz but under 80kHz.

C1 47pF you have is consistent with the throttle. And on a permanent basis, this does not break the chain? In message 2606, is it not soldered parallel to the throttle?

Roma, can you measure the jump in inrush current and current consumption? I wonder how much the currents correspond to the rated power.

DC-AC converter is it possible to seriously shrink it in size and adapt it to the power of 10-20W for rebuilding a broken ice lamp for esl?

In the purchase, but rather in the sale)) 12v ballasts and converters have a lot of parts, as practice shows-mostly so that it was ))) There may even be a microcontroller or a processor assembly, why - well, just cool - a microprocessor in the converter-mom don't grieve!
In general, it seems to have implemented high-speed protection against overloads, short circuits, power supply voltage drop and increase, and so on. Although all this is also present in the chip on which our converters are assembled.

On the constant from the capacitor there is not a single break (tm) Constant then to recess has nothing to do with it, and about the throttle and capacitor I have already written everything above)

The starting current is there, the operating power will be acc. to the choke that will be inserted there.

And you can do anything! This converter can be the size of the floor of a 9v battery, This is if you do it yourself, and if you tear out the converter from the digital camera that the flash is worth-then there is a size of approx. 10X10mm at a power of 15 watts

Soooo, dear, let's talk about the camera in more detail! There's this thing lying around, I thought I'd throw it all away! Even electrocuted once from the conder....

Well, if you are sure that the conder turned on in series at constant does not create a break (not at 20kHz, but when powered by a 12V battery), then I do not even know what to say...need to try, razdolbayu at work tidy start-up from polupotuhshey 100W savings bank.

I have one problem.
Purchased dc-ac outputs about 190V at the output, and I would like 230V. You can fix this by disassembling it and modifying the trance? Or something else?

Is it the same in the tropics? Do you need to sit all night or ....?
And at what time to start turning on the lamp?

Ideally, yes. You need to sit all night, because many insects fly at "their" time. Some before dawn.

The activity of insects and, more generally, arthropods over time is an extremely interesting topic, but I did not deal with it.

Among insects, I am interested in grasshoppers, beetles and cicadas. Butterflies - only for the sake of view 100%.

alex017, what is the permanent capacitor? Is this trolling?
Already everything seems to be painted, and people related to painting understood everything from a couple of sentences, but the leaders of the energy industry are still in doubt)))

About the converter in the photoappart, and about the alteration of the store converter-although I am a supporter of free communication, but this is very much beyond the scope of this topic and pulls on "remote removal of tonsils via the Internet"))) I can only recommend doing self-education on this topic, there is everything on the Internet And in general, since 600re is "free", then in this case it is probably easier to buy
By the way, the converter in the camera, despite its miniature size, is quite a serious thing in terms of electric shock.

I don't want to argue, do you think people are not very smart who put drivers in ordinary flashlights? You can do anything, but everything has pros and cons. The SD must be used with a resistor or driver. There is no other option. If you want to run experiments on your own wallet , please do so.

And in general, soldering 12-220V is not worth it at all. It's easier to buy something ultra cheap on ibei.

And after such messages, from which it is clear that "we already know everything and Abramovich themselves", such questions look like.. strange

This post was edited by Hierophis-03.02.2013 13: 19