Features of light catching

Lamp from uv stera gives uv? Gives. Does the LED give visible white light? Gives. Does one complement the other? Yes. Then what are the problems? Have you caught on a UV lamp and you have accurate information?
Even on the "black" lumki flies the same...

Ster gives 200 nm. Regularly irradiated with 200nm. you will get not just a burn, but a dose, and the risk of cancer.
The optimal wavelength for insects is 300-400nm + visible light. In attractive traps, lamps are placed at 350nm.
Black lumens have a range of more than 400nm.(if I'm not mistaken, 460) are ineffective, only as an additive to conventional lamps.
Caught.

You can protect yourself from the lamp with a piece of foil.
In the pricked drl, the same UV. You shouldn't think that there is something different... Only there this UV is many times more, but there is also visible light.

My lamp is 254nm

So do you think that you should not take this lamp with you? I can not take it in principle, I found another use for it.


I bought a 9W UVA lamp 365nm. Compact 2-pin only. and I need 4x.

By the way, the question is not quite in the subject, but maybe it makes sense to shine on the pryamoptera with such a lamp for a while? Will it be useful for them?

This post was edited by alex017 - 21.03.2013 11: 50

Is something flying?

I caught a lot of small things

What about large erect wings and cicadas?

What about large erect wings and cicadas?

Only caught a Nephilla spider alive during the day-from krupnost

By the way, where are you in Taya?

By the way, where are you in Taya?

Here,
https://maps.google.ru/maps?q=pinnacle+gran...=h&z=16&iwloc=A

we're leaving tomorrow.

Should I give you a motorcycle battery "by inheritance"?
I'll leave it here anyway.

Here,
should I give you a motorcycle battery "by inheritance"?

No, thank you! I'm going somewhere else-Phuket))
How many days were there? Make a photo report soon!

In general, I bought two ultra-bright single-watt white LEDs, 3HPD-1, 130 lumens at 350mA (700mA max), cost $ 1.8 pupaars apiece with a substrate. But the substrate is soldered lousy, you need to view and redo
I turned on a pair in series directly to a freshly charged 6V lead battery, so if you connect it directly to the battery terminals, the parameters are exactly in the average range from the recommended ones-the current is 370mA, but when I connected the headlight from the wiring on the bike, the current dropped due to a drop in the wires, it became ok 310mA.
The radiator is slightly warm during long-term operation at +25C.
Shines of course perfectly! On such a headlight, you can even catch the light)))

So diodes of this type can be connected directly to the lead battery easily.

Sold the same 3W 400lumens, for$ 2.6 with a substrate, but the headlight is 800lumens. this is already too much, oncoming blind will)))))))

And more about LED strips-imho - a waste of money, where diodes work at 20% of the rated power, and the price is very high. Ze those funds that cost a meter of tape, you can buy 9 3W diodes for 400 lumens, make a triangular radiator, put it on the trina side and that's it, 3500 lumens!!

In general, the case is promising, it turns out, consumes 27W, and the luminous flux is like a 38W housekeeper(just that!!!!!). True, at the cost of 7 housekeepers on 38W, if from this side, then the housekeeper wins, for the same funds you can buy 25,000 lumens..

This post was edited by Hierophis - 03/25/2013 20: 46

Roma, you are always looking for America))
You just didn't see how a decent quality laser LED shines.
I saw it. Perhaps it's a pity, because now something bothers me when watching the light of Chinese crafts.
Now I'm making a light in a 6-ton cml u2 grate (I'll drive about 5W). The light will be just killer. True, one detail is missing....so I won't finish it yet. True, you may be lucky and this detail will come tomorrow, although the probability is small.
Probably get rid of the 10W Chinese. It doesn't shine. Bright, but not like the Kree. With cuttera I will order 3khml on one star. What a beast that will be!

And in general, it is not clear why you count the lumens of savings banks?? How are you going to scrape them out?

This post was edited by alex017 - 25.03.2013 20: 38

Well, for the price of these diodes exactly like cree cost, but these cris did not suit me because there is a voltage rating of 2.8 V, without a driver or resistor, you can not plug it into 6V directly.

By the way, it is necessary to measure the luxometer that they give out. But it's still too expensive for general use, everyone was happy with how it shines, but when they found out the price..., and also take into account what you need to do to turn on a light bulb at home instead of a light bulb.. Pribluda (network driver for 50W) costs about 10ue if you buy.
So far, at our price for el. energy, the housekeeper is several times more profitable than diodes, especially since I repair all my housekeepers by 90%.

But if you catch the light, then yes, but it's still expensive To buy a lot of small ones, about thirty single-watt ones.

And manufacturers write lumens on housekeepers. But you also need to measure, now everything is fine

No, I still got a little crazy when calculating, LEDs are only 1.5 times more efficient than a housekeeper, and it will cost like 7 housekeepers. Ta nu nafik, no, well, I agree on the bike, you can put it, since there every watt counts. And so - while not very much with such a cost, potreblyadstvo.

This post was edited by Hierophis - 03/25/2013 20: 48

For light fishing, if I was a super flyaway on this case and caught at least twelve times a year, I would buy a substrate with 3-5sd and catch it. This is the most powerful light. High efficiency. And when catching 1 time to pay OK 1.2-1.4 tr, the hand does not rise. I've been staring at the " buy " button for a long time.
By the way, that's how my Chinese shines.

I thought here yesterday to buy a new camera more powerful or buy the same pair of drivers and a couple of dozen ice and still complete the replacement of light on ice.
Fotik did not buy....

By the way, the light from these diodes is lousy that kapets, from housekeepers compared to incandescent-terrible, but in housekeepers at least some minuscule variation of the spectrum is around the peaks, and in the LED the spectrum is single-peak, as a result, the white diode light is poisonous-caustic of some kind. Dead cold semiconductor light)) And in the end you realize that there is nothing better than warm lamp light

By the way, the light from these diodes is lousy that kapets, from housekeepers compared to incandescent-terrible, but in housekeepers at least some minuscule variation of the spectrum is around the peaks, and in the LED the spectrum is single-peak, as a result, the white diode light is poisonous-caustic of some kind. Dead cold semiconductor light)) And in the end you realize that there is nothing better than a warm lamp light

Well, I think it's true compared to incandescent, but I picked up when I was picking up cree LEDs at the glow temperature, I took a warm white 4000K and was very happy, not like incandescent, but warm and pleasant. I don't think that there is much difference, but the color reproduction with it is already the tenth case. Interestingly, very few people like cold LEDs with a high glow temperature, but they are just sold because they have a higher light output. Especially Chinese No-name .

I bought an Ultrafire brc 18650 3000mah on dx.com

Real 2.5 Ah.
But with the Japanese, of course, do not compare. However, they hold a little better than Trustfire.

Roman, you have not yet held decent quality LEDs in your hands, do not judge.
I, for one, fiercely hate warm tones of light! But I really like the blue-white light. Any white seems warm to me, if without blue.

This post was edited by alex017 - 26.03.2013 20: 39

After all, the course for lithium batteries was initially taken correctly!
Tested Ultracell 3200mah NiMH batteries.
I am sure that, for example, a camera on such devices will live almost forever (by the way, I have long dreamed of buying something decent), but it doesn't make sense to use them for fishing.
The voltage around the rated 12V does not last long, then gradually drops for a long time...the batteries are functional, but there is no stability in the energy output, i.e. the voltage drops, the current also drops, and the brightness of the light source drops.
At a current of 2.6 A on the batteries themselves (pack of 10 pcs) drops about 3.5-3.7 V, as a result, the voltage becomes about 10V total! At a current of about 0.9 A, it drops to about 1.5-1.7 V.

I also bought a fast charger for type AA, AAA: 2500mah charges in 30 minutes.



This post was edited by alex017 - 03.04.2013 18: 43

Today I got and tested 12V Portable 3800mAh Li-ion Rechargeable Battery Pack for Wireless CCTV Camera.

In reality, there are 3 packages with a capacity of 1680mah installed there, which stretched my Chinese 10W LED for about an hour at a current of 0.82-0.90 A, i.e. the maximum capacity is 1Ah. When the voltage dropped to 9.9 V, I took pity on the battery and turned it off.
Charged from a 1.5 A charger 12.6B purchased separately. Actually, I bought a 16.8 V 1.5 A, but the fucking narrow-eye was wrong, motherfucker! I charged the first time and the second about 1.5 h. The batteries (packages) swelled up a little, you can not torment them at a current of 0.9 A!

Probably there is some sense to buy a charging circuit for 3x Liion batteries, batteries for soldering and assemble a normal pack of at least 2ah. in this case.
Oh, that would be schyas those batteries from akka for a laptop for soldering......
The 18650s are out of competition!

This post was edited by alex017 - 06.04.2013 20: 34

alex017, a little swollen??? At a current of 0.9 A? Come on!! In general, a Li-ion battery should operate at a current of 1C in the rated capacity. Horror of some kind, the Chinese rule )) There's a hike inside that big pocket battery from Nokia 900mA Chinese that sell for $ 4 To buy such 3 PCs, it will be the same and much cheaper, and without sending

You're always right, Roma.
But it was necessary to test!
Now about the extension. Acc from Nokia was slightly inflated, both the first original and the two subsequent ones, acc from NTS was slightly plumper, as well as the two subsequent ones, acc from Olympus - the same picture.
Take the battery from nts mini . According to the Chinese, it is 1500 mah. In reality, ot pulls longer than the original one, i.e. there is definitely 1ach. You can collect on them, but it is very expensive.
I ordered it yesterday 18650 for soldering (to reduce the amount that is needed for the box), the charger for three 18560, suitable charger 12.6B I have (a source that will power the charger from the previous link).
As a result, I will collect a normal battery in the same case, so I don't worry, only one thing worries whether everything will come before the trip, until May 14 is very short left.

I ask for advice from those who understand physics here!
There was an idea to try to catch a light lamp for a solarium. From what is written about them on the Internet, it seems that they can be quite suitable for this. These lamps come in two types - low pressure (tube) and high pressure (metal halide). The disadvantage of the former is, in my opinion, their large size. So I was more attracted to the second group. But it was not so easy to find detailed characteristics of them on the web. As a result, I contacted a local company that sells similar things, and they sent me a passport for such a lamp - MA4004OR.
So, what worries me: the lamp power is indicated at 380 watts. It is connected via ballast, its power is 400 watts. Hence the question - what will be the final power consumption of the entire circuit - will it be in the range of 380-400 Watts, or a little more, or will it be about 800 Watts? It is also a little confusing that the lamp voltage is indicated at 135 V, although the seller assures that it operates from a regular 220 V network. But here I would rather believe him, but I would like to understand about the power. The fact is that I plan to connect it to the Honda EU10i generator. Its power rating indicates 900 watts, and the maximum is 1000 watts. At the same time, the time of continuous operation at maximum load is indicated-no more than 30 minutes. The year before last, during a trip to the Caucasus, it had a breakdown - the service said that the electronic control unit burned down, probably due to prolonged overload. Although the biggest thing I connected to it was a 250-watt DRV and a small energy-saving lamp. As a result, the repair cost was slightly cheaper than buying a new generator.
Here is what is written in the passport of the lamp:



Well, in its entirety, if anyone is interested



 LT_400W.pdf

size: 106.4 k
number of downloads: 239








This post was edited by EvgenD-09.04.2013 20: 01

Yes, it will fly on it, of course, and most likely just wonderful, because there is uv-a, which is just interesting to animals (as I was explained above).
The starting power will be approximately 800W, the usual operating power will be 1.25 P or about 500W, i.e. the generator needs 1kW.
Do not fool yourself with volts, the main thing is to connect it correctly to the ballast.
If you want to have less power consumption, then take the epra. Spend decently - how many drops will win.
You shouldn't think too badly about pipes. You're driving, aren't you?" You don't carry a generator on your shoulders, do you? Then what is it about? you shove the tubes in your back and you're on your way. You can also use a weaker generator and catch it on the battery without it at all.

So the main question was - will the generator burn down? It turns out that it shouldn't. And I have nothing against the tubes, just as I have found out so far, they have a maximum power of about 160 Watts, while the length of such a lamp is about a meter. Although, we still need to find out more about the prices, maybe they will eventually turn out to be a good option. And their metal halides start from 400 watts, there is no less.
As for the fact that butterflies should fly quite well to it - I'm almost sure of it. Because it is just designed to emit the so-called "soft" ultraviolet (UVA), which, as they say, is most attractive to insects.

This post was edited by EvgenD-09.04.2013 20: 17

EvgenD, personally, in my opinion, no physics will help here Simply, it is not known what kind of generator and what it can actually do. I would definitely check this bundle of lamp+generator a couple of times near the house, than then it would burn down somewhere on a hike.

In general, the DRL 400 lamp (and this lamp is based on it) takes about 700W, because the throttle efficiency is low, but you can calculate it yourself - the total current in the network is 3.2 A, voltage is 220V, full power= 704W,
Just do not fall into temptation, and multiply 3.2 by 135V ))) This is the working power of the lamp, and also + reactive power and heat dissipation power in the throttle= 270W, it's not for nothing that it is so hot that no one canceled the boiler and Kirgof's equations
El. ballast can save the fathers of Russian democracy from these losses, but I think that the cost of 400W ballast will be soaaay ))

I would generally like to refrain from such experiments - I can't afford to repair the generator again right now. That's why I'm asking. As for the cost of ballast-yes, the company said that a new one for such a lamp would be expensive, but they did not specify how much, but they said that when I decide on the lamp model, it is possible to choose a beushny one.
Well, this is still just a thought, in the end, everything will depend on the ability of the lamp to work with the generator and on the price of the kit.

That's not, expensive, that's what I meant by this

http://www.growlight.ru/shop/svet/group_603/item_178/

but then what they write - up to 50% savings at the same power as with the classic throttle - is well, almost a reality, hardly straight up to 50%, but up to 40%- easily.

And you probably offered a starter+ an old warm tube throttle...

That's not, expensive, that's what I meant by this

http://www.growlight.ru/shop/svet/group_603/item_178/

but then what they write - up to 50% savings at the same power as with the classic throttle - is well, almost a reality, hardly straight up to 50%, but up to 40%- easily.

And you probably offered a starter+ an old warm tube throttle...

Who knows? I'll find out more.
But the technology seems to be better developed for plant lovers than for entomologists. Guesses about what they grow under these lamps, I will keep to myself.

Heh, yes, clearly not radish

EvgenD, personally, in my opinion, no physics will help here Simply, it is not known what kind of generator and what it can actually do. I would definitely check this bundle of lamp+generator a couple of times near the house, than then it would burn down somewhere on a hike.

In general, the DRL 400 lamp (and this lamp is based on it) takes about 700W, because the throttle efficiency is low, but you can calculate it yourself - the total current in the network is 3.2 A, voltage is 220V, full power= 704W,
Just do not fall into temptation, and multiply 3.2 by 135V ))) This is the working power of the lamp, and also + reactive power and heat dissipation power in the throttle= 270W, it's not for nothing that it is so hot that no one canceled the boiler and Kirgof's equations
El. ballast can save the fathers of Russian democracy from these losses, but I think that the cost of 400W ballast will be soaaay ))

When calculating the total power, the "cosine phi" multiplier is forgotten, i.e. the power consumption of the throttle+lamp system will be less. The voltage of 135V is indicated after the throttle, i.e. 220-135=85V is landed on the throttle. As for the rest, the 1kW generator will not pull such a lamp, we tried it. The problem is the inrush current at the time of ignition. Because of this, either the inverter output protection is triggered, or the inverter itself dies. Of course, generators are different with different circuit solutions of the output stage, but they all extremely dislike the active load (chokes, capacitors) and reduce the output power by the same cosine of phi. Not to mention such small things as distortion of the output waveform, which already makes the throttle feel bad.
In short, I don't recommend it. Moreover, such a powerful lamp has a number of disadvantages, starting with the danger of UV radiation and ending with the short flight of insects to the screen... This is interesting when you catch fish in a clearing in the forest.

They don't like Reactive power.
Ballast for 400W mgl is better to take with ibey, if new, the price will be much more interesting than the Russian one.
Fans of plants under lamps grow baobabs, for example, and not radishes. That's for sure. Yes, and in the opu these lamps after the appearance of LEDs.

They don't like Reactive power.
Ballast for 400W mgl is better to take with ibey, if new, the price will be much more interesting than the Russian one.
Fans of plants under lamps grow baobabs, for example, and not radishes. That's for sure. Yes, and in the opu these lamps after the appearance of LEDs.

700 rubles in Moscow. You can find a throttle and cheaper to find, if the control unit. From the USA, we lose a lot on shipment.
LEDs vs DRL? So far, you haven't proved it at all.

I meant LEDs for lighting plants. I don't say anything about fishing.

alex017, that's for sure, something everyone forgets about the fact that "total power" is a case of kraz without any cosines, the good old warm lamp formula Ohms-U*I)))
mikee, you are confused a little, you need to think outside the box, or rather, take into account the incidents of Kos. fi is relevant when the generator "where-then there", and we need to find the active power And when the generator is with us, we need to take into account the FULL power, and it is calculated without any fi. So, in this case, the reactive power will still consume gasoline, taking into account the active power for all 700W
And the inrush current has nothing to do with it, firstly, it can be reduced in a bunch of ways, secondly, it is not great for such lamps, about 2*Inom, and then twice-this is at a very small moment in time, a millisecond there..

They don't like Reactive power.
Ballast for 400W mgl is better to take with ibey, if new, the price will be much more interesting than the Russian one.
Fans of plants under lamps grow baobabs, for example, and not radishes. That's for sure. Yes, and in the opu these lamps after the appearance of LEDs.

And from this mm (e) ibey, will not send a cat in a poke? Ballast for 400W is still not that nibut, I don't think that it will be cheaper than 2000 of your rubles, and if it doesn't work or burns out.. Although, if the money is easy to get, then you can't play roulette))

When calculating the total power, the "cosine phi" multiplier is forgotten, i.e. the power consumption of the throttle+lamp system will be less. The voltage of 135V is indicated after the throttle, i.e. 220-135=85V is landed on the throttle. As for the rest, the 1kW generator will not pull such a lamp, we tried it. The problem is the inrush current at the time of ignition. Because of this, either the inverter output protection is triggered, or the inverter itself dies. Of course, generators are different with different circuit solutions of the output stage, but they all extremely dislike the active load (chokes, capacitors) and reduce the output power by the same cosine of phi. Not to mention such small things as distortion of the output waveform, which already makes the throttle feel bad.
In short, I don't recommend it. Moreover, such a powerful lamp has a number of disadvantages, starting with the danger of UV radiation and ending with the short flight of insects to the screen... This is interesting when you catch fish in a clearing in the forest.

Yes, in my Honda then just the inverter and failed. A friend of mine had a similar breakdown a few years earlier. But I did not connect anything to it except the DRV-250 and a small saving lamp. In general, the case is dark.

Thank you to everyone who spoke out. I won't buy metal halide yet. I'll try to find out more about low-pressure lamps. They are less powerful, though more bulky.

Ballast for 400W mgl is better to take with ibey, if new, the price will be much more interesting than the Russian one.

Are there any examples?

I would generally like to refrain from such experiments - I can't afford to repair the generator again right now. That's why I'm asking. As for the cost of ballast-yes, the company said that a new one for such a lamp would be expensive, but they did not specify how much, but they said that when I decide on the lamp model, it is possible to choose a beushny one.
Well, this is still just a thought, in the end, everything will depend on the ability of the lamp to work with the generator and on the price of the kit.

Buy a Chinese generator for 3000 rubles - if it can withstand such an experiment, then nehay works, but it will not survive - then you do not need to experiment again on Honda.
Although, I have an idea that, perhaps, in the Honda initially the control unit was faulty.

Buy a Chinese generator for 3000 rubles - if it can withstand such an experiment, then nehay works, but it will not survive - then you do not need to experiment again on Honda.
Although, I have an idea that, perhaps, in the Honda initially the control unit was faulty.

Honda was bought in 2006 and until the summer of 2011 there were no problems with it. Maybe an unfortunate combination of circumstances played a role - the carburetor that got clogged up during this time, not very high-quality local gasoline, altitude and a little rarefied air (although I didn't include it above 2600), and maybe something else.

This post was edited by EvgenD - 10.04.2013 19: 28

Dimmable, you can probably choose the power so that the generator does not complain.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-dimmabl...=item33809599f5
Chinese 400W
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400W-220V-METAL-HA...=item5d3ce40bb6
And examples of what you need? I have about 150 purchases from ebay. Poor-quality goods and seller's errors of 5-6%, and even if it were 18650, the figure would be vanishingly small.
About the benefits - our Internet says about 200ue for not understanding what, and ibey for these money-branded or Chinese for 150ue.
The inrush current of a conventional MGL400 with a choke turns off a 6A type D automatic. This is proven by experience, i.e. the current is higher than 6A. On the 150W epra, the inrush current is indicated at 2A, i.e. three-fold (shjas pasmarel). Power factor 0.98.
Generator needs 1.2 kw minimum....
I have already accumulated a large amount of epra 70-150W at home, so I think it can be sold to lovers of catching insects?!))

alex017, that's for sure, something everyone forgets about the fact that "total power" is a case of kraz without any cosines, the good old warm lamp formula Ohms-U*I)))
mikee, you are confused a little, you need to think outside the box, or rather, take into account the incidents of Kos. fi is relevant when the generator "where-then there", and we need to find the active power And when the generator is with us, we need to take into account the FULL power, and it is calculated without any fi. So, in this case, the reactive power will still consume gasoline, taking into account the active power for all 700W
And the inrush current has nothing to do with it, firstly, it can be reduced in a bunch of ways, secondly, it is not great for such lamps, about 2*Inom, and then twice-this is at a very small moment in time, a millisecond there..

"Oh, how many wonderful discoveries the spirit of enlightenment is preparing for us!" First, you will understand what power you measure, because between Watts and Volt-Amperes, the cosine of the phase shift is located. We have a generator in kilowatts, a lamp in Watts, and you suggest talking about the total power measured in VA Now about the starting current. alex017 has already given examples from the characteristics of lamps, and I will add that it is really possible to reduce the inrush current, but you need to take special care of this, and we just usually use the throttle. The throttle from the inrush current of the lamp gives a voltage surge at the output of the generator, from which the output protection can also be triggered.
Well, once again - in practice, the generator with a capacity of 1 kW does not start the DRL-400, included through the throttle. Problems are also observed when the DRL-250 is turned on via a 400W throttle, as well as when the DRL-250 is simultaneously connected via a 250W throttle plus DRV-160.

mikee, if I didn't understand, I would have stayed hungry)))
The generator, just not with us, but with you, not in kilowatts but in boas, or in parrots, because China has its own watts, but the lamp power when designing a power source should worry about the full one, although what reactive power can we talk about if the generator is an inverter?

And since you are already clinging, I will hint at your quote

"but all of them are extremely disliked by the active load (chokes, capacitors)"

read more about active and reactive loads) If this is of course fundamental, because if it is so, for smart words at the entomoforum, then everything is permissible, still very few people will understand what's going on )) But seriously, the throttle is the same active load as a scolopendra butterfly

As for practice, I haven't encountered any modern generators at all, and in view of recent discussions, I was wondering if the generator on which 1kW is written will withstand a load of 1kW at least for 30 minutes, or even won't start with it?
In general, it is very impractical to include a choke in a generator with an inverter output. in the meander conditions, the throttle with its clumsy iron, which does not have time to peremagnetize, actually works as a resistor, as a result, the drl400 from this generator is not something that 700W will eat, but all 1200 probably So electronic ballast is still needed...