Parnassius

Community and Forum → Insects breeding → Parnassius

Andry Shaposhnikov, 30.01.2009 20:21

Hello everyone Friends, who has information on breeding Parnassius(highland)? I would appreciate any information.

Comments

31.01.2009 22:03, Бабочник

hmmmmmm..........All again write. This OK klava klatsat skoka...
Look, I described everything here, and a specialist specified the Parnassus method. I don't remember the exact branch.
Can someone tell me (moder for example)...
Clean-cut types like apollo are generally bred without problems.
*
On khokhlatochny and hollow... depends on which ones. Loxias that is unlikely to be, he generally eats strictly his C. krasnovi
Delfius group on information from one breeder is also problematic in this sense.
Charltonius, avtokrator, ariadne and nordmanni for example eat (normally developing) C. ochroleuca and C. lutea. These two crested birds vegetate all the warm season, too. They sprout without problems after stratification, and grow quickly.
Nordmanni generally normally eats many types of low-mountain tufts. Mnemosyne, glacialis, and stubbendorfi all eat hollow food. Well, this is understandable...

Likes: 1

31.01.2009 22:04, Бабочник

Oh! Found it.......
Breeding generally consists of several cycles:
1. Egg production,
2. Growing caterpillars,
3.Creating conditions for pupae and breeding butterflies,
4.Mating of adults,
as well as wintering is one of the important, and sometimes difficult, links in the cycle.

You can get eggs from butterflies in small cages. For most types, 5-liter transparent plastic mineral water bottles are suitable.
Take a 5-liter plastic bottle, cut off the bottom, turn it over - the cage is ready. Cover the top with a sieve. Place the forage plant inside the cage, passing the stems through the neck and dropping them into a jar of water. On a sieve it is necessary to put twice a day cotton wool moistened with a 10% solution of fructose or honey-nutrition. Fructose is a fruit sugar that is sold in supermarkets and grocery stores. (and change 2-3 times a day for fresh ones!). It is also advisable to spray the entire cage with water from a spray bottle and force-feed the butterflies in the evenings - see the part about manual mating. Put all this household equipment in the sun - they will not be carried in the shade. For pigeons-caudates and podaliriya, it is necessary to put a plant growing in a tub or pot in the cage. Parnassius (but not all) and moths do not need a food plant in the cage. You can simply hang strips of paper inside the cage.

Eggs for breeding should be kept in a closed petri dish (or something like that) with a napkin on the bottom and a leaf of the feed plant. Change the napkin and leaf daily so that they don't get moldy.
For Parnassius, the technology is somewhat different.
With Apollo and other scavengers, the method is simple. Take plastic containers (first the smallest jars) from under margarine "Rama" or similar (now there are all sorts of plastic containers for food on sale), put a napkin and a sprig of a feed plant on the bottom. A very good plant for the entire APOLLO group is Sedum telephium, but you can use any other plant that is readily eaten by caterpillars (they must grow at the same time), for example, I feed all Sedum caucasicum, because it grows in abundance in the surrounding area, and in terms of biomass it is almost like telephium. You can use Radiola rosea, Sedum telephium, Sedum album from the available ones. First, you need to use young twigs with tender leaves - it will be easier for the caterpillars to eat. The stalk can be wrapped with cotton wool soaked in water, and wrapped on top with a piece of plastic bag (only food!) and tie it with a thread - so that the water does not flow out. So the plant will last fresh longer. It is advisable to change the food daily, especially at the first age. Put strips of black paper in the container (you can wrap packs of photo paper) - caterpillars like to warm up on it and grow faster. Above the container, put an incandescent lamp of about 20-40 watts at a distance of about 20 cm. That's all. You don't need to put water in the cage - the caterpillars will drown. Put the croutons (eggs) directly in the container.
If the caterpillars do not come out of the eggs well after wintering, then they can be slightly stimulated by placing the eggs in a container under a lamp on a wet (but without puddles, so as not to drown) napkin: heat, light and humidity changes stimulate the exit. Parnassians in general instantly come out of the eggs as soon as they get into the heat. This is one of the snags of their wintering season.

At the first 2 instars, the caterpillars of most butterfly species are kept in closed containers with ventilation, napkins on the bottom and twigs of a food plant, which are changed daily.
In general, it is best to feed butterfly caterpillars on live plants in pots, and you can also make a sieve bag and put it on the branches of a feed plant right in the garden, and put caterpillars inside the bag. Tie the bag tightly so that ants, spiders and other predators do not eat the caterpillars.
It is possible on bouquets placed in water, but some species will die at the same time from excess water in the leaves, while it is necessary to tightly seal the neck of the bubble or cans so that the caterpillars do not get there and do not sink. Do not put the caterpillars in the open sun in closed cages!

Pupae should be kept in a mesh cage, periodically sprayed from a spray bottle. Hatching butterflies will crawl out on the walls and ceiling of the cage and spread their wings. They dry in butterflies in different ways-depending on the size, from 2 to 12 hours.

Sailboats and saturnii can be paired manually - they have an open general apparatus.
Saturnias don't feed. therefore, it is easier to work with them, but for sailboats, the technology is the same.
The male should be prepared in the cage for 3-4 days. The cage can be an ordinary aquarium, covered from the inside with gauze or tulle (to make it easier to crawl). Warm them with a lamp and feed them well with a 5-10% solution of fructose or honey. To do this, a bowl with a moistened cotton wool of fructose solution is placed in the cage (change daily). It would also be good to feed them additionally, holding the wings and carefully unwinding the proboscis with a pin, submerging it in a drop of solution. Hungry butterflies begin to greedily drink it at the same time. Males should be actively flying and ripe for mating, while females should be as fresh as possible. A female who has lived for 2-3 days may already be unsuitable for mating. Although, if you keep females in the refrigerator at +4C and light humidity, they can remain "suitable" for mating for 2 weeks. Parnassus females are the fastest to fail, while swallowtails and polyxenes last longer. When mating, the male and female are joined by the genitals, while the male's valvae and uncus should be wide open, and then close on the female's abdomen. The male freezes and hangs on to the female. If the couple does not want to mate, then after 2-3 attempts it is necessary to give them a rest. Try changing pairs.
After mating (which in swallowtails and polyxenes lasts 1-2 hours, and in Parnassus almost half a day), the female is put in a cage with fresh food plants, which is placed in the sun or under a lamp. The female must eat well so that her eggs mature. Feed in the same way as males before mating. Most Parnassians do not need a forage plant for laying eggs - they throw them anywhere. For polyxena, you need kirkazon, for swallowtail-dill, fennel and other umbrella plants. Males can be mated again (after a 2-3-day break and feeding), but the percentage of fertilized eggs will decrease. Females need a place to flutter, otherwise the eggs will not mature normally.
The most convenient species for breeding and mating are swallowtail and polyxena.

Wintering pupae and eggs can be carried out in the refrigerator, caterpillars are better in nature.
You can overwinter eggs and pupae in the refrigerator, at -5C (+4-0C is enough for pupae). For this purpose, a freezer is suitable, in which it is not lower than-10C. It is necessary to remove eggs for wintering in October. At first, keep them at +10+7C for 1.5-2 weeks, then the same amount at +5-0C, and only then you can take them to minus. According to the same scheme, but on the contrary, withdraw from wintering. You can put eggs in a plastic tube from under the juice, plugging it with cotton wool. But the best way is in clay baked tubes, tightened with a grid on both sides, the tubes are placed in a plastic container with ventilation and a double bottom. Under falshdno put wet moss-sphagnum. About once every two weeks, the moss is checked and wetted as needed. At the same time, you need to make sure that the eggs do not get into the heat.
Pupae are placed on a layer of moist (not wet) peat or moss-sphagnum, on a napkin inside a plastic container with ventilation. Check the humidity every two weeks.
You can also overwinter eggs and caterpillars in nature. To do this, in the garden, in the shade of the house on the north side, where the snow lies for a long time, a hole about 50 cm deep is torn out. It should be filled up to half with expanded clay or broken bricks in order to avoid getting wet. Put the eggs in a clay baked pot (you can use a flower pot). Tighten it with a fine sieve so that eggs or hatched caterpillars do not get out of the pot (caterpillars easily hatch during thaws). The pot is placed on expanded clay with a sieve sideways. The top of the pit is covered with boards so that moisture does not get inside the pit. When snow falls, you can sprinkle it on top. The main thing is that mold does not get started, so there should be ventilation. According to this scheme, you can overwinter any caterpillars, even pigeons of the 1st age. The scheme in the garden is good because there are no problems with power outages, as in the refrigerator. Plus ventilation is better. Personally, I advise you to divide the eggs into two equal batches, and overwinter according to these two schemes.

Satyrs can be grown (and eggs obtained) on lawn grass sown in pots.
Also see the breeding links:

http://www.butterfly-guide.co.uk/farms/
http://butterflybreeders.org/
http://www.butterflyfarm.co.uk/
http://butterflywebsite.com/articles/showarticle.cfm?ID=27
http://butterflywebsite.com/Articles/const...fm?type=farming
http://www.saturnia.de/index.html#Anfang
http://www.thebutterflysite.com/rearing.shtml
http://www.insectfarm.com.au/catalog2000.htm
http://thenaturestore.com/zz3324.htm
http://www.silkmoths.bizland.com
http://members.aol.com/billsbugz/bfly_info.html
http://www.entomology.swinternet.co.uk
http://www.butterflyexhibitions.org/
http://www.thebutterflyfarm.com/Raising_butterflies.htm
http://www.newzealandbutterflies.org.nz/Ed..._Resources.html
http://www.rearing-butterflies.com/
http://www.kiva.net/~daylight/moth.html
http://www.expandtheworld.com/html/silk_mo...ide_page_1.html
http://www.insectweb.host.sk/rearing/species.htm
http://home.wi.rr.com/monarchraising/page18.htm
http://www.pwbelg.clara.net/trophouse/index.html
http://www.seaza.org/Conference/7th_confer...gile_forest.htm
http://butterflybreeders.com/pages/annualc..._photobutt.html
www.butterflybreeders.org/pages/docs/Bre...Butterflies.txt

http://butterfliesetc.com/handpairbutterflymonarch1.php - manual pairing of Danaus plexxipus (!!!)

This post was edited by Babochnik - 31.01.2009 22: 07

Likes: 5

01.02.2009 14:49, Бабочник

I don't quite understand why there is such a big cage. If you pair nymphalids-it is clear. Parnassians are easily mated by hand. For breeding, cages with a volume of 3 to 5 liters are quite suitable. Females don't need to be milked specifically. If it is normally paired and the food is constantly in the cage, it rushes without problems. However, many crested flowers without a forage plant in the cage will not be carried. And many high-altitude prablas with egg laying in captivity and with a crested bird in a cage. Charltonius, for example, is very problematic in this sense, and the avtokrator goose is still the same.
S. album is not the best plant. Some of the Parnassian genetic lines don't want to eat it, that's all... Grow S. telefium - and you will not know grief. Verified. And its biomass is huge. Propagate best by cuttings, in one season you can make a whole bed.

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