Bottles for fumigating

I answered "Combine". Because I use stains made of plastic, glass. I want to try metal.

for nocturnal butterflies-glass, daytime shower with your own hands, for beetles-plastic. in desperate situations-a jar of horseradish or mustard

I destroyed a lot of different plastic jars with chloroform and ethyl acetate, including very cool ones sent from Germany. I came to the conclusion that only polyethylene or polypropylene (vessels with thick, cloudy flexible walls, for example, containers for freezers) is suitable for plastics. Polystyrene is definitely not suitable (they make all disposable dishes from it) and hard optical plastics (I don't know the name of the polymer). Polystyrene, by the way, even dissolves with gasoline, which turned out to be a very unpleasant surprise for me when washing the butterfly from fat on the table without oilcloth - it stank for a long time and the polishing warped.

The disadvantages of glass in field conditions are clear, but what are the advantages, in addition to transparency? Considering that ethyl acetate does not eat normal plastic.

The disadvantages of glass in field conditions are clear, but what are the advantages, in addition to transparency? Considering that normal plastic does not eat ethyl acetate.

The advantages of glass not only lie in its resistance to corrosion, but also in the fact that the stain is easy to wash out if it becomes dirty. I have several Soviet test tubes with a wall thickness of about 3 mm. These do not break even when falling on asphalt, although they are heavier than plastic ones. I use them mainly for exhusters. And for stains-plastic measuring cups with a diameter of 3-5 cm with screw-on thread lids.
Ethyl acetate "normal" plastic, indeed, does not eat. But over time, such plastic clearly becomes cloudy, and it is not possible to wash it. But for the stain it is not critical.

But over time, such plastic clearly becomes cloudy, and it is not possible to wash it.

Approximately how long after you start using it can you observe this effect?

Approximately how long after you start using it can you observe this effect?

In one season, or even faster. It all depends on the intensity of use and the frequency of recharge.

let's go back to our sheep-who uses this or that type of stain and for what groups
I collect beetles and butterflies:
daytime butterflies - "in hand-to-hand", night butterflies-in "glass with EA"
beetles-in a large stain (a firm or jar of hair dye, sometimes after an injection of ammonia); I collect small things in epindorfs 1.5 with cotton wool soaked in EA at the bottom, of which you can carry quite a lot in your pocket, to split by feed box/pairs/ and so on. och are convenient in urban conditions

But is this transparency really necessary?

So I was just wondering why else people use glass, except for the sake of transparency.

So I was just wondering why else people use glass, except for the sake of transparency.

so the usual situation is the same-caught some beetle and immediately put it in the stain, and then: "hey, friend, look what I caught" and show him the stain, you can clearly see through the glass, but through the muddy plastic - no longer

so the usual situation is the same-caught some beetle and immediately put it in the stain, and then: "hey, friend, look what I caught" and show him the stain, through the glass you can see perfectly, but through the muddy plastic-no longer

So I was just wondering why else people use glass, except for the sake of transparency.

This post was edited by Asar - 08.07.2016 20: 42

So I was just wondering why else people use glass, except for the sake of transparency.

Plastic stains have a drawback. In addition, how they can be exposed to organic solvents, substances that we soak. Eno described this in detail above. Plastic stains tend to crack due to mechanical stress. Simply put, if you accidentally sit down or lie down on a plastic stain, it can crack. This won't work with glass ones.

Plastic can become electrified, then butterflies are smeared on the walls, especially micro
And with the condensate, something is wrong in the plastic more strongly zamokayut.
Transparency, not only to show that the butterfly is slightly frozen, do you see what it is? If you don't have to, you let go right away. More humane.

Plastic stains have a drawback. In addition, how they can be exposed to organic solvents, substances that we soak. Eno described this in detail above. Plastic stains tend to crack due to mechanical stress. Simply put, if you accidentally sit down or lie down on a plastic stain, it can crack. This won't work with glass ones.

I will share my "know-how".
Indeed, plastic containers made of polyethylene or polypropylene (we discard all acrylics because of their instability to solvents) are always initially cloudy. In most cases, this is not critical, except for the desire mentioned by colleagues to consider mining.
But if you really need a transparent plastic container, try to get a preform for making ordinary plastic bottles that are filled with all sorts of drinks. Initially, they look like thick-walled test tubes with a round bottom and an already formed standard neck for a threaded bottle cap. When making bottles, preforms are heated and inflated inside folding molds.
These preforms are made from glass-clear polyethylene terephthalate (PET). The length is different - from somewhere 6 cm to 15 cm, depending on the size of the future bottle. The thickness of the walls is about 2.5-3 mm, so you can not just sit down or lie down on such a test tube, but you can also step on it without fear. You won't be able to break it either. But there are also disadvantages - this is a round bottom (do not put it vertically), as well as a diameter equal to the diameter of the bottle neck. Therefore, nothing large can be inserted there.
Personally, I make them exhusters for small things. Well, if as a stain, then with cyanide pressed in a thin circle (2-3 mm) from a cork stopper + 2-3 circles from a filter press. If such a stain is not overmoistened, then it works for years (certainly not less than two years without recharging). You just need to periodically change the wet accordion from the filter press to a dry one.

I have entomological stains (more than 20 years of practical use) these are small glass jars. In the 90s, they were mayonnaise containers with a tin lid on the thread - then they disappeared (or rather, the mayonnaise container "grew up" somewhat). I began to look for various imports in a small (convenient!) glass containers from various snacks - but it turned out to be expensive (and usually inedible). Now there are very convenient (small but with a very wide throat) jars for mustard. Such a stain has one very big drawback - tin lids are destroyed by ethyl acetate in a couple of years of use. You can break them only if you catch something on the rocks in the mountains.
BUT HERE IS A REALLY PROBLEMATIC THING FOR AN entomologist-field worker-it is impossible to find a container (small with an AIRTIGHT STOPPER !!!) for camping storage and carrying in a pocket/backpack of ethyl acetate. Earlier (80-90-ies) there were small flat thick-walled bubbles for nail polish remover (their plugs held very well, they were thick and made of special plastic - but it was not uncommon to beat!? probably were not hot). Now I'm looking for corvalol bubbles (especially good ones from German!) both the size and a good screw cap and dispenser. But their traffic jams on the third year from the top are destroyed - and to find a suitable dead room... I wonder what the bourgeoisie use for these purposes???
By the way, I do not advise pricking insects with ammonia - it is a very dangerous thing for a catcher (those who have been stabbed with an insulin syringe with ammonia know what they are talking about), ESPECIALLY IF YOU WORK WITH CHILDREN - only alcohol for injecting insects (but it is also problematic - if you prick a night bug).

I also have this problem: ethyl acetate evaporates in three years, and even earlier it largely hydrolyzes under the influence of water vapor absorbed from the air during use. So, apparently, you just need to update it at least once a year, then any medical bottle will do. And if there is a strategic reserve, then store it in a cool dark place in a glass bottle with a rubber wax stopper and open it as rarely as possible. But I don't have that kind of supply.

I usually use cans of "Capelin roe with salmon slices", glass with tin lids, as mordants. The size allows you to stick any of our insects, except, perhaps, Saturnia piri or a large dybka. Their tightness is far from ideal, but for zamora it is quite sufficient.

As for lethal injections, I've always wondered how people manage to keep their scales intact. For example, just touch a scoop with your finger and you will be bald, this is their defense mechanism. In general, some kind of rapid procedure. What is better than staining?

  
BUT HERE IS A REALLY PROBLEMATIC THING FOR AN entomologist-field worker-it is impossible to find a container (small with an AIRTIGHT STOPPER !!!) for camping storage and carrying in a pocket/backpack of ethyl acetate.

I wear ethyl acetate in Weasel bottles

In the field, I carry ethyl acetate in small bottles of nose drops made of white opaque plastic. Such vials of various drugs of different types, not all retain tightness, you need to pick up. Ether is released in drops, very convenient.

EA and / or Weasel, in the field in native FLAT bottles or poured into flat bottles of chlorhexidine.
stores for three years!!!!! nakh... why is this necessary? I bought as much as I needed with a small margin - you see it's running out-I went to any cosmetics store and bought more. you buy pure EA in liters and pour it into a container.
mustard jar for the second year floated! Oh ! The horror!!! "buy two more!" 60 p -of course a blow to the budget. if there is a relative or acquaintance who feeds purees, then this is finally a storehouse
for beetles, I often use cans of hair dye emulsion or whatever it's called, such a thick-walled jar of cloudy plastic with a large pipka. I have no one to brag about, pm white chemical-reactive plastic suits me. I cut off the pipka to leave 1-1. 5 cm, warm it on the gas and press it with pliers - HOORAY!!! you screw on the lid and put it on the jar, if it siphons, then you "solder"it again. you fall asleep with crumbs or sawdust-you fill it with EA or weasel and in the field!!! I often disassemble it after a few weeks, if the jar is airtight, but everything is as good as new, if the jar lets you in, then if there is no time for straightening, I pour fresh weasels. I use such stains recently only for krupnyak, which I tease with amiachk, so that they don't dig much. and small things = warhead charges for beetles-sits in epindorfs 1.5-2 -2.5 ml with a wad of cotton wool moistened with weasel. such an epic is always a ssoboy in your pocket

This post was edited by AGG-13.07.2016 22: 59

All these nail polish remover liquids have recently been used by students in practice for primarizing insects, and recently these " liquids "contain less and less ethyl acetate - a lot of all sorts of impurities from which insects literally"get wet".
I don't understand your pathos about the cost of mustard vessels...

Oleg, no pathos. The issue price is 27 rubles / piece, I just saw it near the house, so I don't see any reason to worry about the loss.

All these nail polish remover liquids have recently been used by students in practice for primarizing insects, and recently these " liquids "contain less and less ethyl acetate - a lot of all sorts of impurities from which insects literally"get wet".

I absolutely agree. I used such liquids for a couple of seasons - they could store production for days without losing flexibility.
This year is a complete out. The impression that you just pour water. Soaks barely, and the moisture is just wild. For eardrums, this is tolerable, but even for flies, it's out of the question - everything sticks together, especially the wings...

We use only HC ethyl acetate for soaking insects - we have abandoned everything else. And for 20 years, what have you not experienced in your practice?

We use only HC ethyl acetate for soaking insects - we have abandoned everything else. And for 20 years, what have you not experienced in your practice?

If I remember correctly, and XF differs from non-XF by 1-2%, then the question is: did we really compare these two options, and is there really a difference for our (entomological) application?

now I sit straightening zion (small elephants covered with colored scales) collected on May 26 of this year in epindorfs of 1.5 mm with a small piece of cotton wool moistened with "weasel". all joints are flexible, the genitals are easily removed and easily cleaned in a drop of water, the color of the integument is restored within 1-2 minutes. pm the question is not in the type of stain or HC DV, but who and for what groups, what uses

No, I haven't done any research comparing ethyl acetate of HCV and non - HCV-for one simple reason. I've never come across HC before - it's just that university chemists use HC as a rule, and first I got it from them. And then as it happened, if you can get it, then this is XCH. I give them a small change tightly-and I give them large ones and prick them with alcohol (I almost refused ammonia). And getting it out is getting harder and more extreme.

In recent years, cans of Moccona coffee have been used as stains: it is cut out, or rather melted with something hot metal, so as not to scratch the fauna with the edges of the cutout, a hole (within 1 cm in diameter) in the plastic tray of the glass lid, through which cotton wool is packed tightly enough into the tray, for better evaporation before stuffing cotton wool is burned with a thick nail holes on the bottom surface of the tray around the main hole; the drug can be dripped on the central hole. Do not squeeze the cotton wool very tightly inside, otherwise it will take excess drugs and any moisture, and the interior of the stain and the material in it will be more moistened. Of course, if the jar is defective (I remember only one case over the years), then the tray may lag behind the glass body of the lid, and the drug will evaporate into such a gap. Entomological goals should be determined immediately, everything is for the good of the cause: we pour coffee immediately after uncorking the jar into a tin can from "Nescafe"(there is less show-off before the guests, but they will not ask for much), and we launch the mocha jar into science, otherwise after repeated kitchen opening and closing the jar, entomology will serve less.

For field storage of medicines, branded plastic cans for chemicals (everything can be found in all kinds of medical equipment, etc.), at least 200 grams in volume, are used for long-range sight; as small containers - for current use - imported pharmacy glass vials with a plastic lid and an internal drip are used (best of all from valocordin or from karmolis), there are covers made of very chemically resistant plastic.

As for HC ethyl acetate, there are not one or two of these gradations, the purest ones are noticeably more expensive, but the use of this purity for our sorrowful cause is zero; the main thing is that ethyl acetate, as it was correctly noted here, decomposes and loses its killing power. Therefore, it is necessary to use small bubbles for the current every-minute drip, and fill them from medium ones, and those from a large bottle (which is extremely rare to open, respectively).

There's another problem with ethyl acetate - some beetles are well prepared for it and sort of neutralize it (I don't know what kind of interior chemistry). Blaps are especially difficult to get rid of: if there are a lot of them stuffed into the container, the beetles will still win, unless you pour the drug in buckets. Do they drink it? Deer beetles in large numbers also require a lot of medicine and still often come to life later. True, this big guy is not too lazy to prick with ammonia when there is at hand. Ground beetles or bronzes in any quantity will be satisfied with a few drops on the stain of a glass volume, if only (especially bronzes) they were kept there until complete peace. Butterflies seem to all hoof from ethyl acetate in approximately the same way.

A. Y. Elez, if possible, please post a photo of your staining device.

This post was edited by Asar - 24.07.2016 17: 25

  A. Y. Elez, if possible, please post a photo of your staining device.

Look at URL #212 in the subforum "Soaking insects" .

People, if you use a stain like Entosphinx (i.e. a vessel with a cork, a cylinder for poison in the cork, which is also plugged with its own cork on top), then how will it be more convenient:
- So that the lower part of the cylinder is completely open (so that it is easier to change the cotton wool if necessary) or in the form of a sieve (so that it holds better)?
— How much better is it to push the cylinder inside (deeper/shallower)?

People, if you use a stain like Entosphinx (i.e. a vessel with a cork, a cylinder for poison in the cork, which is also plugged with its own cork on top), then how will it be more convenient:
- So that the lower part of the cylinder is completely open (so that it is easier to change the cotton wool if necessary) or in the form of a sieve (so that it holds better)?
— How much better is it to push the cylinder inside (deeper/shallower)?

A lot depends on the thickness of the plug and the material of the cylinder.
1. It is better to make the lower part of the cylinder not open, but perforated, and the cotton wool can be changed through the top of the cylinder by removing the plug.
2. The degree of deepening of the lower edge of the cylinder depends on the type of poison (the more volatile, the less the cylinder should protrude at the bottom), as well as on the diameter of the cylinder and the stain itself. In any case, if the plug is thick enough and the cylinder is inserted tightly enough, then everyone can change the degree of deepening of the cylinder at their own discretion.

Or, by the way, yes, I wonder the ratio of the volume of the cylinder and the stain (so that there is enough poison) in the case of using ethyl acetate.

People, if you use a stain like Entosphinx (i.e. a vessel with a cork, a cylinder for poison in the cork, which is also plugged with its own cork on top)

And I thought this tube was for putting small insects in the stain - so as not to open the lid often. And the cotton wool with poison is attached from the inside with a pin to the lid of my car.
Century live-century learn

Ladies and gentlemen, I designed a container for ethyl acetate for staining, in which it can be simply poured - it will evaporate and maintain a high concentration of vapors, you do not need to wet the cotton wool every few openings. An insert with a thread is fixed in the cover of the stainer, and the lid-"inkwell" - is screwed into it from the outside. The lid is designed like an inkwell-non-spill, if you tilt it, nothing spills (if you shake violently , it will splash; for this stupid case, you can put cotton wool or non-fabric in the insert, special sides are provided for this). If you need to add ethyl acetate, you can do this without opening the stain.

Download link, instructions, and images - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4823365

Use only PETG for printing! it is resistant to ethyl acetate, tetrachloroethane, ether. 100% completion rate. Do not print on the conical part of the support cover.

Small interfacial area = low evaporation rate = a lot of extra flutter and reduced humanity

I see that people have been going crazy with these miracle printers lately, trying to figure out how to put this business to good use. Very rarely, someone comes up with things that are really useful and difficult to do in other ways, such as wobblers or lens parts. Most of them print all sorts of crap.

Ladies and gentlemen, Designed a container for ethyl acetate for staining

Report on operational experience.

It is impossible to operate without a laid fleece, purely on evaporation from the lid, which, as always, ENO wrote respectfully and tactfully.

Nevertheless, this device proved to be very convenient! Its advantages:

- always ready-made stain. If you fill the lid-non-spill, then even after a few days with not the most sealed lid in the stain there will be a large concentration of poison vapors

- convenience of updating the poison on the fleece. You can put individuals in an empty, dry stain, close the lid and only then calmly fill it with poison or update it

- convenience of making new stains. You do not need to think about how to get another cotton wool on the next jar. According to the template, I cut out the holes, screwed the device - it's ready. Everything is the same and beautiful.