Mould

A long time ago, I used to dip a beetle on a needle in some organic solvent, preferably toxic and highly volatile , something like methylene chloride, which you can buy freely in any chemical reagent store. However, this method is not suitable for insects covered with down or having easy-to-clean (slightly darkening) drawings on the body.
In principle, you can experiment with butterflies and dripping on them with something solvent, the consequences, however, may be unexpected .

In general, it is recommended to add some fungicides when soaking. For example, thymol or salicylic acid. If the mold has already appeared, I cleaned it with ethyl alcohol, but this is good for beetles and other insects with dense covers. In moths, the hairs come off.
Methodology - on ent. pin a tiny ball of cotton wool. Put it in alcohol and carefully wipe the insect. Mold (if alive) is "burned" and wrapped on cotton wool, which must be changed frequently. You can also clean impaled beetles from dust and dirt. This is how I used to prepare old insect collections (19-early 20th century).20 bb) for exposure.

I do not recognize the use of reagents when soaking/steaming. I collect beetles myself, though, but it's probably more difficult with butterflies.

There is only one recipe: do not use plastic/polyethylene containers, make do with simple glass ones. It has been noticed more than once that insects mold much faster in plastic.

In principle, you can experiment with butterflies by dripping some solvent on them, the consequences, however, can be unexpected .

In fact, butterflies are degreased by immersing them in a solvent (gasoline or acetone) entirely for several days (up to two or three weeks, if necessary). See the topic "The insect has come to terms - what to do".

And about mold:
1. The material collected in the field should be free to dry, so that polyethylene and other sealing is unacceptable. Either moldy or rotten.
2. In very humid climates, the only way to preserve the collected material is to use fungicides (see Juglans for details).
3. I fight mold in the desiccator very simply - I do not give it time to appear, speeding up the process of soaking. For a long time I gave up on the generally accepted recommendations (wet sand, etc.) - I pour hot (40-50 degrees) water into the desiccator almost under the lid, I let a "raft" of foam, open matchboxes on it, in which I spread insects. In less than a day, everything is ready. If not (for example, large butterflies) - before straightening, I inject water into the breast with a thin syringe - in minutes they are saturated. The main thing is not to overdo it, not to get your wings wet.
And beetles can generally be soaked by throwing them into a glass of water. You can also wash it if it's dirty.

For a long time I gave up on the generally accepted recommendations (wet sand, etc.) - I pour hot (40-50 degrees) water into the desiccator almost under the lid, I let a "raft" of foam, open matchboxes on it, in which I spread insects.

You can also put the desiccator on any heat source: in winter-on the battery, in summer on the pipe of the heated towel rail. The softening process is further accelerated.

When soaking, you can avoid the appearance of mold, it is more difficult with a sharp increase in humidity in the place where the collection is stored. Because fungal spores are everywhere. I wrote recommendations just for this case. And reagents when soaking are added to water (sand) and not on insects.

You can in this case slightly "dry" in the open air. I.e. the surface of the wings will dry, and the body will remain soft

I use ordinary vinegar when soaking in a desiccator (of course, glass),
which I add to the water. Mold does not appear, even after a week. Try it, it's easier,
and in addition to insecticides, you can also poison yourself with fungicides; -) drop it.

Thank you, this is an interesting way to try. I have heard, however, that if you overdo it, after being in excessively humid air, and even warm, the scales will be much more erased when straightened. It's true?

This happens if the butterfly is soaked. By the way, this is why I avoid super-accelerating the process (battery-powered desiccator) - you may not be able to keep track.
But more often, the wings literally immediately become " wet " (and the butterfly is still hard), because the butterfly has become reconciled. This can also be understood in a dry state - by the glossy sheen and greasy spot on the envelope of the mattress (or on the bag). If so, the butterfly is removed from the desiccator - and in acetone!

This happens if the butterfly is soaked. By the way, this is why I avoid super-accelerating the process (battery-powered desiccator) - you may not be able to keep track.

Yes, I hadn't thought of that before. However, there was no such problem with beetles

I also heard from an entomologist friend about fighting mold on beetles. Beetles are lowered into a hot (boiling) solution of washing powder. I didn't know exactly how long they keep it and what the powder concentration is. He says that the beetles are soaked and get a spectacular shine . Again, I don't know about butterflies, maybe they are boiled (for degreasing), but I'm afraid.

I wash the desiccator and substrate (most often sand)before soaking I use boiling water and wipe the container with medical alcohol, also add a little alcohol directly to the sand

He says that the beetles are soaked and get a spectacular shine .

This is more harmful than useful - if the beetle is initially matte, but becomes shiny...

I wash the desiccator and substrate (most often sand)before soaking I use boiling water and wipe the container with medical alcohol, and also add a little alcohol directly to the sand

There is no point in sterilizing the desiccator before soaking: the insects themselves are not sterile!
And wet the sand with alcohol... Then the alcohol, in theory, evaporates and works as a fungicide. IMHO there are more reliable fungicides than alcohol vapors in low concentrations.

This is more harmful than useful - if the beetle is initially matte, but becomes shiny...

And it will get a matte gloss

there is also a good old way to kill mold, drop a little phenol.
Mold will not be guaranteed.

Good afternoon, dear ones! I wanted to know who is fighting the formation of mold when soaking insects. The fact is that I was recommended carbolic acid, but if there is a small child in the apartment, this disappears by itself (because of the smell)... I tried cologne, but somehow still not great... Who has any thoughts? I use a standard desiccator of 2-2 liters, 5.

Have you read the previous content of the topic? That's all there is to it!

Actually, I didn't read the entire topic - this message created a topic, and later, apparently, the moderator added my question to the end of the topic that was discussed for a long time... For which I thank him.
The point is different: it mainly contains tips on soaking beetles and the fear of spoiling butterflies... It's understandable. But, still, there may be a way to more or less guarantee the absence of mold when soaking butterflies. It is mold, and not zazhirivaniya, etc. I apologize for my insistence - this is a very painful topic...

But, still, there may be a way to more or less guarantee the absence of mold when soaking butterflies. It is mold, and not zazhirivaniya, etc. I apologize for my insistence - this is a very painful topic...

Phenol. A few crystals in the desiccator, and 99% of the mold problem is solved.

It depends on how long it takes for the mold to appear.. I myself soak it on cotton wool with water, on which there is a blotter. I pour warm water and put it on the battery (I always do this in winter, since there are no other worries with butterflies, the batteries warm up and the air is not as humid as in summer, which means that drying is better, the wings fall less or do not fall at all)

Mold appears approximately on the second day of steaming (i.e. on large specimens-Catocala, etc. - which is especially offensive). I tried to inject a drop of water into the thoracic region a day after the start of steaming, i.e. in a slightly softened butterfly, but I did not notice any special results...

then maybe just try changing the water after the first day?

What's the point of changing the water when the insects are the same?

then maybe just try changing the water after the first day?

Meaning? Mold grows on the material, not in water.

clear.. I really did. What causes mold?

clear.. I really did. What causes mold?

As far as I know, microscopic spores of mold fungi are present almost everywhere, including on insects. In conditions of high temperature and humidity, they germinate.

clear. Then this: on some American website there was such a method: it was almost like ours, only the butterflies were in bags, in a plastic box closed, in COLD water.. So they, of course, soften longer, but in theory they do not become moldy.. You can try to put the usual view for a week or two, see what happens.

I will definitely try it! Only closer to winter - while I catch the light, I try to spread out as much as possible at once, without leaving it for the winter. Thanks for the idea!

  
3. I fight mold in the desiccator very simply - I do not give it time to appear, speeding up the process of soaking. For a long time I gave up on the generally accepted recommendations (wet sand, etc.) - I pour hot (40-50 degrees) water into the desiccator almost under the lid, I let a "raft" of foam, open matchboxes on it, in which I spread insects. In less than a day, everything is ready.

I also tried this method with butterflies, but my wings always got very wet-it was from the concentration of warm steam in the air (it looks like it was dipped in water). And the coloring suffered from this. What is the secret?

I soak butterflies using the same algorithm as Helene wrote.
In a plastic container, I pour hot water with a column of no more than 2 cm and the temperature that the finger can withstand. I wait for the visible steam to disappear, and load the raft with butterflies laid between 2 layers of colored paper. Nothing should touch the container walls. There is, of course, sometimes a situation as described by PhilGri, but very rarely (I pour water or it is too hot). When everything is normal, the amount of steam condensed into water on the inside of the container lid, when it is opened, is not much. I load the container in the evening, and the next evening I spread it out. For medium - sized moths, this is usually sufficient. I finish large ones with hot water. Yes, the foam raft is made of dense material, not loose.

butterflies-
a food container, wet BOILED (I started using just boiling, not calcination this year, it seemed to me more effective, after a couple of "bookmarks" are moldy + a lot of unwanted organic matter is removed by flotation) sand, it has grooves under the chest and a couple of drops of vinegar essence, you can put it on the battery if large butterflies - The next day I straighten it out

beetles-
food container, foam rubber (1-1. 5 cm thick), water for half or 2/3 of the foam rubber, a drop of "fairy", beat, after the foam settles on the foam rubber beetles, so as not to cling with claws-a piece of paper

temporary pencil labels

Phenol. A few crystals in the desiccator, and 99% of the mold problem is solved.

After phenol, insects become brittle.

Depending on where: crushed streptocide is added to the mattresses.
When soaking: the main thing is not to overdo it. You can add r-r of ethyl alcohol (you drink a check and sharply exhale on the material). A joke, of course(I'm talking about chekushka). But 23 has already arrived. Happy holidays, friends!!!

What is the problem?
A little vinegar and you will be happy.

Does white mold affect the quality of beetles, or can it be removed and forgotten about?

Dear colleagues, I'm just freaking out. I have a peacock's eye desiccator for the experiment is almost the third week, and the most interesting thing is not falling apart and there is no mold. I've already kept it with mother-of-pearl seeds in a pile for a week. Well, it seems that all the conditions for the growth of mushrooms, but there is nothing! In short, I prepared an approximate solution: 70% pure alcohol C2H5OH+ 30% water. I want you dear friends to confirm experimentally already at home that this solution suppresses the growth of mold

and how do you soak it in alcohol? there will be no flexibility, and it will also club the mice.

I'm making it easier.

for soaking, water is taken, in which a drop of fairy is added. no mold, no bacteria. after soaking and straightening, the material can even be sequenced (there were precedents, successfully).