Young Fighter Course

But triangular ones are easier to make, including directly in the field, without any gluing. And it also seems to me that in a square bag, the butterfly can move and damage the wings, in a triangular one, it immediately ends up in the corner of the bag.

But triangular ones are easier to make, including directly in the field, without any gluing. And it also seems to me that in a square bag, the butterfly can move and damage the wings, in a triangular one, it immediately ends up in the corner of the bag.

I totally agree. In addition, how can you then remove a dry butterfly from such an envelope without damaging the mustache-legs? Less space for tweezers to operate. And just to see what's in the bag...
For me, it's just triangles.

Yes, I also agree that triangular ones are better.Especially if they need to be prepared several hundred pieces.I agree, and about the field conditions,and the safety of the material, with Anthrenus.And about the extraction, with Andylog.
But thanks for the samples anyway.

It's a matter of taste. The triangle is not convenient for me to unfold and fold. I take out my bag, without looking with tweezers, put the corpse, nothing breaks, nothing gets clogged. And if someone is too lazy to do it, then I'm sorry. As experienced entomologists, use the triangle.

In my opinion, triangular ones are much more convenient than these. And they are made with the help of one ruler. When you need to make 200 pieces in one day, then I don't want to cut and glue it

....why reinvent the wheel?

This post was edited by Zhuk-02/20/2008 22: 10

I am sincerely grateful for your work, if you still have your own developments, know-how of the CU, do not be greedy, share. The general idea here is generally the same for everyone, but in the little things everyone has something interesting.
True, I use triangles myself, they are not only less time-consuming to manufacture, but also the butterfly does not need to be shaken out of it (dragged with tweezers) with the risk of damage. Bent the edges, unfolded, butterfly in the palm of your hand...

This post was edited by entomolog - 02/21/2008 07: 14

In the field, I use similar square envelopes, only factory-made, presented by my foreign entomologist friends. In Europe, Katati, they are in use and are very popular, only, of course, no one glues them there on their own - you can buy them for a penny at entomological fairs... However, looking at me, all my friends-collectors pasted such envelopes from tracing paper and are very happy with them. I use regular triangles to send material.

in principle, the triangles have some disadvantages, for example, when they are made of dense tracing paper, you can accidentally open it not neatly, that the dough will pop out, but that's another question..
Making cocked hats is not difficult, the only thing is tedious, especially marking up and lining up tracing paper.... but to rot them easily and quickly..
but to circle templates, in my opinion, is not very productive??
It takes me a couple of hours to make about 80 packages, as far as I can remember.. And for the summer at least 200-300 is necessary, if you do not travel very far and for a long time..

Making cocked hats is not difficult, the only thing is tedious, especially marking up and lining up tracing paper.... but it is easy and fast to remove them..

But why mark up and line up tracing paper? I take it in rolls, measure out the width of the roll as much as you need (50, 70,90 mm) and cut it off with a stationery knife. The resulting tape is cut crosswise into parts 30-40 mm longer than the width of the tape. Then, by eye, without any alignment, in five movements, I fold the envelope. But sometimes, to show off, I buy Czech ones. )))

Yes, Andrey, I agree with the others, it is quite difficult to make them, and most importantly - it is quite difficult to pull a butterfly out of such a bag, and even without damaging it. But it looks pretty And in general, many entomologists do the same things differently. I, for example, spread out butterflies a little unusually... Maybe I'll even share my know-how with everyone soon...

... Maybe I'll even share my know-how with everyone soon...

Tell me, don't flirt.

This post was edited by entomolog - 02/21/2008 07: 12

There is a certain gemmor, but it is convenient for me personally. During the long winter evenings and nights, I made about 2000 bags. I will score goals in the summer.

Since you've already mentioned unpacking, I can tell my colleagues about my method. For more than a quarter of a century, I have been spreading butterflies on foam tiles not with their scales up, but with their undersides up. In the groove, the pin is stuck not with the tip, but just with the knob, i.e. when the butterfly dries, the pin sticks out with the tip up. However, before sticking the head of the pin into the foam, you need to use another pin to prepare a hole in the foam (going into the foam strictly perpendicular to the surface). This method requires overcoming inertia, but it rewards you with a number of advantages.
First, after the front wing is removed, the rear wing must not be pushed under the front wing, but placed on top of it. This is much more convenient.
Second, the foam plane provides a single plane for all the wings. Of course, this does not correspond to the old rules, according to which the planes of the straightener from the median line (from the gutter) rise at a slight angle to provide a single flat surface for all the wings in the collection in case of sagging wings. This old requirement is ignored in this case, and it was not always observed in practice before. Rather than making corrections in advance for sagging wings (which God knows how it will go, especially since the boxes are stored differently-who has them flat and who has them on their sides), it is better to immediately give a guaranteed plane to all the wings, and then just make sure that the collection is not exposed to sudden changes in humidity.
Third (and this is perhaps the most important thing), with this method, it is not necessary at all to touch the scaly surface with a needle when removing the wings. The wing stretches behind the veins on the underside, which are clearly visible on the underside. Note that the veins are not located strictly in the plane of the wing – and certainly not on the scaly surface-but as if superimposed on the wing from the underside: more precisely, they protrude beyond the plane of the wing on its underside. These protruding veins are easy to push from the side with a pin, and the scaly layer, turned down towards the foam, can not be damaged in this way. And poking a needle into the scaly layer, on which the veins are much less pronounced – means risking the safety of the material.
Fourth, if you spend a long time on a lighted straightener when using transparent materials to fix the wings, the scaly surface may fade, albeit slightly; it is also possible for unclosed areas of the wing in the case of using opaque but narrow strips (for example, paper). With the inverted spread, the scaly layer, of course, cannot fade.
Fifth, the time spent on spreading is much less – primarily due to the ease of removing the wings.
Sixth, fixing the antennae lying on the foam is easier and better.
Seventh, the legs of the insect are turned up on the straightener, and are not located under the body in the gutter, where they can sometimes dry up in a completely undesirable position. The upward-facing legs of a butterfly are much easier to precisely fix in the desired position.

In the mid-1990s, my colleague V. Y. Smirnov (Moscow), who has been using my method for a long time, tried not to make a chute in a foam board, but to use strips of ceiling foam coating cut with a stationery cutter and pasted on the plates in parallel as straightening dies. It is these dies that I have been using for more than ten years in the manufacture of straighteners. Foam ceiling coverings (in 0.5 x 0.5 m slabs) can be purchased at the market or at a hardware store. Actually, the use of this coating is no longer new today; as far as I know, many entomologists-practitioners have come up with this idea in recent years. Between the strips, a distance is left according to the width of the gutter needed: this depends, of course, on the material. But for the abdomen of Saturnia pyri, you need, of course, not only a larger distance between the dies than for the abdomen of Lycaena helle, but also a much deeper gutter; in this case, the gutter can be deepened (since the thickness of the dies is standard, and sticking them in several layers is an extra waste of money) simply using a ruler at an angle with a clerical cutter due to the foam base. The foam coating should be purchased evenly, without any relief patterns, and preferably pure white (I didn't even try to use any other colors). Their decorative surface (with littered edges) should be turned down and it is with it that the die should be glued to the foam board, because if you turn this decorative surface up and spread butterflies on it, the scales can stick to it, since the surface is very smooth. The upper surface of the die should be the one that the ceiling covering is glued to the ceiling. By the way, even on this surface, do not spread those butterflies that are excessively moistened (these should first be slightly ventilated in the air) during steaming or have already become fat; otherwise, you can then get a butterfly image on the foam, and the bald material will have to be thrown away. But normal material straightens out perfectly in this way. After drying the object, it is removed from the straightener, turned over and stuck, as it should be, with the tip of the pin in the bottom of the box.

It is not difficult to ensure a single plane of two strips of ceiling covering: after gluing them to the foam board with PVA glue, turn the straightener over and put it on a clean, smooth surface (I, say, put it on a polished coffee table) and press down on top with something moderately heavy and relatively flat. In a couple of days, the straightener will be ready to work, and the plane will be observed perfectly.

Additional note: when fixing the butterfly on the straightener, make sure that the pin sticking out with its tip up is strictly perpendicular to the surface of the straightener, i.e. the plane of the wings. To do this, it is enough to look at the pin first from the "tail" of the straightener, and then from the side, i.e.-in projections forming a right angle; if in both projections the pin is perpendicular to the line of the straightener,then it is perpendicular to the entire plane. At the end of working with the object (since pin vibrations are unavoidable when fixing the butterfly), it is necessary to finally fix the perpendicular of the pin, fixing this pin with others stuck in the foam next to it and bending the axial pin so that it protrudes strictly perpendicular.

The description is so long because sometimes, as the classic said, a small thing can get crucial. But overcoming the psychological barrier to the apparent complexity of the recipe, overcoming inertia and mastering the proposed method will lead to the fact that in a short time the entomologist will not even think of any other option for spreading butterflies and will only wonder why he worked for so long according to the old habit.

The above method was reported by me to a number of entomologists. They've known about it for a long time.Nikolaev (Khimki), V. Volkov (Moscow) and Kh.Rakhaev (Nalchik), he is known to A. Boldyrev (Mytishchi), V. Vasilenko (Mytishchi) and other comrades. Since there may be a leak of information, it is quite possible that someone knows about my method who I did not personally inform about it.

If my colleagues are interested in the question, I can tell you how to transport straighteners made in the above way on a trip without removing the material that continues to dry from them. Regarding this "know-how" of mine, there was simply no one to leak from yet...

This post was edited by A. J. Elez - 03/17/2008 22: 44

It's an interesting method, but I don't think it's any easier than the traditional one, judging by the description. My know-how is a slightly modified traditional method. But instead of pins that secure the strips of paper that fix the butterfly wings in a certain position, I use scotch tape. Just glue small strips of tape to the ends of these strips (the tape should be good so that it does not peel off from the surface of the straightener), and using tape, and not pins, fix the strips in the desired position. And then-as usual, with the help of a thin pin, I begin to move the wings, spread the butterfly. Then I close the remaining uncovered surface of the wings with a wider strip, also with tape at the ends. I don't know why, but this method is much more convenient for me than with pins and there are no difficulties with it Here is such a modification! By the way, this does not affect the speed of unpacking in any way, at least for me. My hand is full!

P.S. It's time to change the name of the topic, it has already gone far beyond the production of tea bags. Name, for example, "Methods of collecting and preparing butterflies"

This post was edited by Ekos - 22.02.2008 05: 06

Very interesting method! I use the standard straightening method, but I spread some of the material upside down. And such "inverted" instances, indeed, are easier and much faster to straighten out. And special thanks for the attention to detail in the description! It would be interesting to learn about the transportation of straighteners.

Thank you so much for the detailed descriptions!!!
Immediately there was a desire to try, the only problem is that I need to get the material for making straighteners, otherwise I have everything at an angle
If it is not difficult - can you fix the main photo with other pins?? And in general, I would not refuse a photo report
Ekos, can I have a picture from you? And then something weakly represents the process of straightening with scotch ends..

Not.. It's still a little early for me to go hiking, etc. I personally use a method that EVERYONE will find at least dibilny! In general, I catch for example at night, straighten immediately in the morning. Immediately after capture, I put the butterfly in an ordinary small transparent cellophane bag (like there for breakfast), inflate it and tie it. The butterfly DOES NOT BEAT AT ALL, it lives there unbreakable for about a week. Then I will straighten it out after a maximum of 48 hours! The quality of the material is very good, but normal straighteners only appeared this year, however, as well as the DRL 250, so I will probably switch to traditional methods!

to okoem. You can see on the forum my straightened instances, packages do not affect them as they are not affected. It is enough to suggest your own method, and keep the stones for yourself.

As for the bags, then, of course, you should not go into ambitions and quote Nasrudin about yarn and stones. I believe that only colleagues who wish each other well meet on the forum. Therefore, with all due respect to the fact that the material from rectangular bags turns out to be good in the end, we still have the right to be puzzled. I also don't understand what's the point of leaving the cut edges of the tracing paper necessarily inside (!) a teabag. Let's say that the freshest material will survive this (and even then – not the fringe of wings!), and dry material, especially with not very smooth transportation, will not avoid moving and damaging limbs in a bag made according to the library pocket template and does not reproduce the shape of a butterfly (the triangular one just perfectly matches the shape of a butterfly with folded wings and provides its emphasis in any of the corners, besides the thickness of the abdomen preventing excessive movement of the butterfly to the edges of the package). And here the question is not solved by examples of good distribution, because the percentage of marriage is not determined by the best achievements: after all, marriage is more often thrown not on the forum, but in the sewer.

I also have a purely personal objection (it is unlikely to affect many, but just in case I will say it). The presence of glue will ensure the opening of the bag in case of accidental dampness of the material, so, of course, any collector would have to carefully monitor this side of the case. But for me personally, this is unacceptable in any case, because most often in multi-day excursions (as well as in those after which I do not expect to have time to straighten out the material right away) I don't let the material dry, but I transport it in a humid environment and then sometimes store it for months, if not years; of course, this is not an exchange material, but one that is intended for its own distribution. However, colleagues who receive my material not by mail, but directly, from my hands, also prefer such material, because it is dealt with as if it has just been caught. But in a humid environment in a container (I say "in a container" for a colleague from the Crimea; I would say "in a jar" myself), the glues will disperse and the material will mix and may be stained with glue. Theoretically, with excessive humidity, a triangle can also open (this sometimes happens), but the rigidity of the triangle as a whole is higher: I say this because a long time ago I tried once to make bags according to the model proposed now on the forum by a colleague, and I was convinced that a large lid opens very easily in a humid environment, and then logic. And this is despite the fact that my bags were then sealed not from the inside, of course, but from the outside, i.e. the large lid was pressed not only by the force of gluing, but also by the edges themselves bent over it. There is nothing to say about the comparative simplicity of making rectangular and triangular ones. To make stripes and simply bend as necessary, in my opinion, is still easier and faster.

Now - about the unpacking. I agree that this method should be covered in more detail and not leave so much ground for just doubts. Indeed, rotating the material on the pin and swinging it back and forth is very possible. But even with the traditional method, only the pin itself is firmly attached to the base (since it is stuck with a point, and not with a blunt head); the butterfly, unless it is glued at the point of impaling with epoxy, can spin as much as you like. Therefore, the main thing, I think, is not to ensure the peace of mind of the pin (with sufficient skill, anyone can do it himself with pins stuck in a row), but to prevent the butterfly from twirling on the pin and rubbing against the foam with a scaly layer (if this is difficult for amateurs, then I will simply say that we are talking about the dorsal side wings).

I assumed that the material I reported was known to everyone as purely economic, even without any connection with entomology, where they had long ago learned to use it for pasting on the bottom of boxes. Ceiling covering made of foam is smoother than we have with you all that is even indecent to call on the forum. The front side of it is even so smooth that scales can stick to it, which is why I did not recommend using it for anyone who does not want to leave the material with the dorsal side of the wings (it will not go anywhere), but without a scaly layer on it.

But, of course, if you press the wing to the foam with your finger and drag the wing without removing this finger, the butterfly will wipe itself even on the smoothest surface. But this should not be done. When the wing is held by the vein with a pin, it is by no means pressed tightly against the foam, but has, at least half a millimeter, an air gap under it. Try at least the usual way to spread the butterfly upside down (however, this is for some Higgins; for amateurs, I will explain that I am talking about the ventral side), and you will see that such a spread does not affect the scales on the upper side, because you do not scratch the wing closely on the straightener!

So, the problem of wing rotation is solved by preventing the butterfly's body from rotating on the pin (or together with it, it doesn't matter). To do this, if you start with the left (in a real projection when unfolding) front wing, first stick a pin under the base of the butterfly's left rear wing close to its chest (not to the abdomen, which can be bent God knows how!), then the butterfly will not turn when lifting the front wing. Then, having first fixed the front wing with a small strip (I use ordinary paper, I can explain this later) that intersects only its corner (so as not to interfere with future straight longitudinal stripes), I go to the right front wing and do the same with it, keeping track of the straight axial position of the butterfly's body. Only then do I move on to the rear fenders, starting again from the left. To do this, approximately above the middle (width) of the front wing, I pin a strip of paper with the end, and hold the lower end, pierced with a pin, ready with my left hand, and with my right I bring the rear wing to the proper position; once this is done, I cover it with a strip, sticking it with a second pin behind the rear wing. I do the same with the right wing.

Then you can take care of a more perfect plane of the wings, since sometimes (rarely and in a few species) the median cell of the front wing is slightly "bumpy". To do this, as many more strips are pinned to the right and left of the main strips as necessary to provide a plane along the entire wing. To do this, you can even remove the preliminary corner strips from the front wings, when appropriate, and cover the entire butterfly with longitudinal ones. With a fixed copy, this is not at all difficult to do, but it is necessary to take care of the quality, because there are such details (for example, the curling tails of some pigeons or "eyes" (just don't tell me that they are anal!) on the back corner of the wings of machaon or podalirius, which are really not flat at all and which need to be very carefully pressed and "untwisted" into a plane using a pin on which a small piece of paper is pinned, which presses a specific part of the wing. Therefore, when straightening, say, the sub-wings, I always have pins sticking out from both sides next to the rear corners of the rear wings, which are inserted only to press the "eye"stretched into the plane with a piece of paper. Then the eye of the finished butterfly is not wrapped to the bottom of the box and has no wrinkles.

From what has been said, it is clear that you should not be afraid of loading when moving the wings of one side to the wings of the other side, because the contouring pin installed in the butterfly's armpits (please do not find fault with the word) does not allow the butterfly (and its other side, respectively) to stretch after your movement on the original side; and then the wing holds, in turn, the original side; by the way, and when straightening the right front wing, nothing prevents you from sticking another pin to the right of the butterfly (also under the armpits), and you're done. Of course, pins for work need to be used long enough, because otherwise it is sometimes difficult to stick your fingers through the forest of pins (after all, you still need to fix your mustache and press your paws – the latter can be done with a long transverse strip over the entire butterfly). I know people who manage even with my method with pins with a ringlet, but this is too much hassle, because there is sometimes not even half a centimeter of space from ringlet to ringlet, and tweezers are an extra fuss here, working with fingers is more reliable. I personally use the same Czech pins that I use for tattoos (of course, not 000 or 06) as working pins. In general, for fixing, it is optimal to take pins of the common third number, but for accurate fixation of the antennae, sometimes you have to take as much as 00 (especially when the specimen is small and no other pin simply fits between the front wing and the mustache).

Once again, I draw the attention of my comrades that it is not the entire left side that is displayed, and then the entire right side, but first the front wings, then the rear ones! This is important not only as an extra guarantee against the danger of damage to the top of the wings, which was rightly pointed out by a colleague, but also because it allows you to make sure that the front wings form an ideal straight line perpendicular to the axis of the butterfly's body before removing the rear wings.

Regarding the last point about the" advantages " of flat unfolding: I was not talking about abstract advantages, but about advantages in comparison with the traditional method, according to which the wings are fixed at an angle; those who in life everything was flat before, can ignore this point. But the fact that I found like-minded people in this matter, once again says that a flat spread is an advantage, and not a sin. In general, I believe that other colleagues will sooner or later agree that it is time to stop working on this issue.

Hard in training – easy in battle. I thank my friends for their interest in the topic. I will address the question of the transportation method later, since the method is not explained in a nutshell (but again, it is easier to work in accordance with it as a result). And in a large volume, my recommendations will certainly not be digested by anyone at once...

This post was edited by A. J. Elez - 03/17/2008 22: 58

I'm thinking about switching to the "angled"extension. I would like to know your opinions because only judging by them I will choose the method!

2 A. J. Elez
Thank you for your clarification! Your method looks more acceptable in their light. At the expense of fixing from turning the body with a bulaka "under the arm" - a good idea, I think it will be useful for the traditional method.

  
I don't let the material dry, but I transport it in a humid environment and then, sometimes, I store it like this for months, if not years;

This point is very interesting. How do you keep the material moist while traveling, but without mold?

To the last remark. I thought about this more than once, but based on the fact that the butterfly spread out at an angle further behaves depending on humidity fluctuations as God would like (and on the position of the box) and the angle in the end turns out to be still poorly controlled, I decided to give up on this option. And I thought about putting a perfectly flat narrow die in the place of convergence of thin dies to the groove, on which both main ones would fall from the sides, forming a rise to the groove (also, thus, raised by the thickness of the die added in the middle). It is possible and otherwise somehow, this question is not so complicated, but I personally did not need it precisely because I refused the idea of straightening at an angle. And those who adhere to the spread at an angle, of course, can make such an improvement or other that would allow them to spread out their underwear, but with an angle of <180°between the wings.

As for the front side, I took it that you were lucky with the material and possibly the ceiling foam. Or maybe I was unlucky when I straightened out on the front, and I was too hasty with the verdict. It's hard to say. It is even possible that we look at the sheet differently. I'll repeat myself just in case. I call the face the one that looks down at the viewer when facing the ceiling, i.e. the one with the faces slanted (pressed down), forming an obtuse angle. The same side on which the acute angle is formed (and which the coating is glued to the ceiling) and which, due to the compression of the faces, sometimes has a slightly raised millimeter edge, I use as a working side. But, of course, this is primarily a matter of personal experience.

As for keeping the material raw, I can say that my method involves some risk, which can only be negated by careful application of the method. In camping conditions, you can use any glass jar and put bags in it (of course, with already starved or at least sufficiently immobilized butterflies). These cans are covered with ordinary polyethylene lids. But for long-term storage, I would advise using a much more airtight (generally ideal in this sense) container for canning all sorts of vegetable and fruit wonders, with a screw-down metal lid with a rubber layer on the underside. Since in a good race, 900 ml cans will obviously not be enough, I advise you to take larger cans. There are also several liters. You can buy, say, a two-liter jar of canned cucumbers and use it.

Cucumbers, of course, will have to be removed. But by eating cucumbers, save vodka. It is useful for preserving the material. In a jar filled with bags of the material, put a piece of cotton wool soaked in vodka (not something smelly or colorful, but ordinary white-headed). A piece of cotton wool soaked in vodka (but not dripping or dripping) should be the size of, say, a table tennis ball, but in a large jar it can be larger. Put on the bags (which are better to put sideways in the jar, and not pack flat) on top, right under the lid, such a cotton wool, immediately close the lid. On a hike, it is best to pack the jar once and for all, having collected the required amount of material. Of course, then you won't be able to spread out a hundred objects in one sitting, and you'll have to open and close the jar. But, wherever you have to open it, keep in mind that if the material still remains in it, it is necessary to simply add alcohol to the old cotton wool before re-closing, because when opening the humidity remains above the roof, and alcohol vapors evaporate instantly when opening, and if you forgot to add alcohol to the cotton wool, the appearance of mold in the very next few days is inevitable. The essence of the method here is that alcohol protects against decomposition and mold, and water creates humidity, eliminating drying out and subsequent brittleness of the material, which could be provoked by pure alcohol vapors.

There is one additional complication. The material can be carried for days or even weeks, but when you return home, it is better to put it in the refrigerator. If you immediately came home from a one-day race, spit on the alcohol, put a small cotton wool soaked in clean water (to avoid freezing out moisture) in a jar, seal it tightly and put the jar in a quick freeze for meat (if you have a freezer); there at minus 18 degrees, this stuff will be stored better than any mammoth, but in this case, it is not recommended to re-freeze the thawed material, the opened material will have to be straightened out in one sitting (and while you are straightening one, the others must wait right there in a closed jar with wet cotton), because no cotton wool during repeated defrosting will save from the removal of moisture from insects, and in this case they will not become dry, but they will become oak trees.

I would like to point out that you should be careful with pigeons (first of all, blue ones, not brown or red ones, etc.). In general, after such storage, the scales behave like after steaming (although the original flexibility and softness of all the tissues of the object is preserved); this means that in meleager, Corydon, and sometimes Amanda, the scales can "stand up" in whole areas and form large dark gray islands on blue wings. To avoid this, it is necessary (if it is not possible to pack only the rest in the specified way, and straighten the pigeons immediately) to moisten the cotton wool with vodka more loosely. Actually, the moisture of this fleece is not designed to wet the butterflies (they do not enter the jar in dried form anyway), but only to saturate the environment surrounding the butterfly inside the jar, i.e. air and tracing paper bags, so that they cannot take moisture from the butterflies in the balance of humidity. We do not wet the material, but only do not allow it to dry out. Excessive moistening of cotton wool can, for example, cause a slight yellowing of the initially white wings (whiteflies, parnassiuses) or, worse, provoke the fattening of butterflies.

Of course, a lumpy pancake is never excluded, but in general, the method does not require any long habituation. If anyone is afraid of it, I can refer them to the well-known manual of K. K. Fasulati on the field study of terrestrial invertebrates, which, I remember, suggests a method for storing material in its original form in an airtight container for one year; if I'm not mistaken, a tablespoon of xylene is used for one package. But I'm not as good at xylene as I am at cucumbers, I don't even know where to get it, and so far I've never used this method. Yes, and somewhere to get caught today not only with xylenes, but also with a bag of table salt would not like... Until they find out that this is not an Afghan plan or even Putin's plan, the whole vacation will pass... Fasulati once wrote a book in relation to normal working conditions.

P.S. Mark the bags only with an ordinary pencil, preferably a simple one.

This post was edited by A. J. Elez - 02/29/2008 23: 28

At the request of Ripper, I post a photo of the straightener with butterflies straightened according to my method using scotch tape

to Okoem:
traces of scotch tape on the straightener do not remain and therefore the butterfly is not wiped off under the bottom! But the surface of the straightener should be smooth, it should be polished with fine sandpaper. The only thing is that the tape can tear off some wood fibers from the surface of the straightener. But this is easy to fix again with sandpaper

This post was edited by Ekos - 28.02.2008 06: 54

Pictures:

1.JPG — (349.96к)


2.JPG — (186.97 k)

Hello everyone!!!
I see on the photo that first there is a fixation with a thin tape, and then the remaining plane is closed with a wide one. In Penza, entomologists (and there are already 10 of us here) first use transparent tapes cut from files, and secondly fix the entire surface with one tape. to do this, first the tape is fixed on the wings with two pins and presses the wings at the base, and then, when the desired position is given , the tape is superimposed on the rest of the surface and fixed around the perimeter as usual. with this method, there are no extra stripes-prints on the wings of tender species, pigeons of some kind. the downside is that it's less convenient, so you have to make mistakes. It happens that the rear wing is lifted up and does not want to climb under the front one, in this case I fix it with a film separately, and I spread the front one independently on top of this film. If the head of the crusty crackers looks to the side, it can be pierced with pin No. 00... and lock it in the desired position. There are still problems, so that the pin above the butterflies sticks out at a uniform distance, for this purpose, the ballpoint pen rod is taken and the pin is pierced at such a distance from the end face that the pin should rise above the butterfly, then when the butterfly is already on the pin, the upper part of the pin is inserted into the rod until it stops, and. In order to string labels at the same distance , holes of the desired depth are drilled in the plastic. Ksta about the verticality of pins: you can install a panel with ready-made holes in the slot of the straightener instead of foam, to which you can insert pins only strictly perpendicular, and they will be fixed with a spring clip, like a plug in a socket-that's the creative poper!!!! if someone does this, send it to me as a gift, as an inventor... Good luck to all!!!!

tO t00m:
send a photo to the studio! And then so little is clear from the description.

I want to share my own method of packaging materials in the field:Instead of paper bags, I use snap-on plastic bags of small sizes, sometimes I reduce them with a heated steel ruler. I use these bags in the event that I'm going to straighten the material in the nearest time, but if you need to save it for a long time, I put it in triangular bags made of rolled baking paper. Advantage of Plastic bags:
1. I buy at least a hundred at once and do not waste time on manufacturing.
2. Transparency, which you will agree is important.
3. The material remains suitable for straightening for a long time due to the density of the sachet.
Disadvantages:
1. Scales sometimes get knocked down, but this is inherent in packages made of a different material.
2. Flexibility of polyethylene - store in the field or in a solid box.

I want to share my own method of packaging materials in the field:Instead of paper bags, I use snap-on plastic bags of small sizes, sometimes I reduce them with a heated steel ruler. I use these bags in the event that I'm going to straighten the material in the nearest time, but if you need to save it for a long time, I put it in triangular bags made of rolled baking paper. Advantage of Plastic bags:
1. I buy at least a hundred at once and do not waste time on manufacturing.
2. Transparency, which you will agree is important.
3. The material remains suitable for straightening for a long time due to the density of the sachet.
Disadvantages:
1. Scales sometimes get knocked down, but this is inherent in packages made of a different material.
2. Flexibility of polyethylene - store in the field or in a solid box.

It is very strange that so far on our forum no one has heard or talked about a very interesting method of spreading butterflies, namely glass! A. Petrov shared the method. The method is interesting because the butterfly's wings become perfectly smooth, and the butterflies spread out easily. And it seems that in the world of entomology, many people already use this method!
Just a piece of 2 mm glass instead of tracing paper or paper, etc. and a couple of pins to fix the glass.

I also wanted to ask cajarc a personal question:
How do you starve butterflies - do you inject them with a syringe or put them in a stain? Or something else? And then - on cotton wool and then soak, or on a pin and fresh or soak all???? Very interesting!

Is it possible to put triangular bags in the form of photos?As it is done above.

Well, if you are satisfied with such a photo, then here, take it

Pictures:

IMG_1111093.jpg — (1.65мб)

"I also wanted to ask cajarc a personal question:
How do you starve butterflies - do you inject them with a syringe or put them in a stain? Or something else? And then - on cotton wool and then soak, or on a pin and fresh or soak all???? Very interesting!"

Yes, actually, I don't do anything special:
I catch it on the screen in a stain with ethyl acetate. then I immediately put ammonia on the mattresses. I try not to touch live butterflies with my hands at all. After returning home from a trip, I dry everything and store it in containers (I used to store it in the freezer, but now I've given up, because I don't have time to release it for the new season). I spread it out, removing the specimens I'm interested in from the cotton wool.
Since I very rarely catch anything in the places of my permanent residence, fresh specimens are rarely found and almost always by accident. Of course, I straighten them right away.

Dear friend, do you give such valuable advice from the field, or have you already arrived?
I'm interested, you know.

Can I figure out how to roll up such bags?

here

Pictures:

paketos.JPG — (12.87к)

senx!learned!

Hello, dear ones! I'm new to the forum. I have long been fond of insects. Please tell me how to properly dry, soak, prick a beetle (deer, rhinoceros), process. Preferably in pictures and a detailed description.

Thanks!

And hello to you, dear.
Advice like new.
Read the forum - for all the time of its existence, all this has been told and discussed many times.
Option two-read books (Kozlov, Nienburg-your collection, etc.) The best selection is here http://herba.msu.ru/shipunov/school/sch-ru.htm. Search by name works.
No one will tell you from scratch, and even with pictures.
But if you have already mastered the subject, and you have some special problems that are not described in textbooks - here you are welcome.