How to properly dry the caterpillar

especially in old books there are techniques for blowing gooseberries - - - gently squeeze out, and then inflate with warm air... maybe someone can tell you more.

I've been inflating caterpillars for a long time. Now let's tell you something.
1) Put the caterpillar in a stain with ammonia(ammonia) and wait for it to stop moving.
While it is being frozen, we prepare a bunch of napkins, tweezers, nail scissors, a small saucepan and a thin straw from some cereal (for small caterpillars) or a plastic straw from juice(for very large ones).
2) After soaking, we take out the caterpillar. We put it on a newspaper or paper with the bottom side up and make a small incision with scissors just below the anal opening.
Next, we begin to gently press on the caterpillar, making wave movements towards the cut, and everything that is squeezed out is immediately removed with a napkin. What is not removed, cut off with scissors. For the first time, the caterpillar can be crushed, but with experience, everyone will understand with what force it is necessary to press. The main thing is that nothing gets on the skin of the caterpillar, otherwise there will be spots or hairs will stick together. The remains of the insides can be squeezed out by gently pressing the caterpillar on top with something flat (for example, the corner of a ruler). After removing the entrails, we immediately insert a straw into the incision so that it fits tightly into the hole and inside reaches almost the middle of the caterpillar and, holding the tip of the brooch with tweezers, try to inflate it. If it flies off, it is better to choose a wider straw.
We put the pan on the stove and wait for it to heat up.
3) As soon as the pan is heated, we lower the straw with the caterpillar into it and hold the tip of the abdomen with tweezers (if it sits firmly, then you can not hold it), we start blowing into it and keep it inflated. Keep the inflated caterpillar better in the middle of the pan, so that it dries evenly. To check whether the caterpillar is dry or not, you can lightly press it with tweezers: if it is hard in all places, then it has dried, if at least somewhere the covers bend, then we continue to dry. It dries up most slowly near the cut itself. This procedure is very long and requires nerves of steel .
4) Remove the fully dried caterpillar from the pan and let it cool down. Next, cut the straw with scissors, leaving about a centimeter of straw outside. If the caterpillar starts to wobble, then you can carefully glue it with PVA glue at the cut. Then we pierce the straw with a pin and that's it.




This post was edited by Zhuk - 09.10.2008 21: 55

I began to have a little fun setting up dry spiders - from alcohol to absolute alcohol, then to acetone, then we take them out and dry them. Often the abdomen shrinks, but sometimes not. But the color is visible, the color of the "plumage". The material probably has very limited scientific value, but I like it. I stick it on transparent plastic triangles. In this case, the main thing is still not to glue the epigina-at the base of the abdomen of females - an important sign-glue from the bottom of the chest. In the same way, a material made of alcohol is placed, which is generally suitable for dry mounting - even flies, eardrums, beetles, and cicadas are generally excellent.
About guseneits-I read about pumping with silicone sealant - people even posted a comparison of different brands for these purposes-look and find.

Comrade Zhuk described it perfectly. True, it seemed to me that it was necessary to inflate with warm air from the inside, and here it turns out warm STEAM from the outside, but if the color does not suffer, then OK.

Comrade Zhuk described it perfectly. True, it seemed to me that it was necessary to inflate with a warm vrzdukh from the inside, and here it turns out warm STEAM from the outside, but if the color does not suffer, then OK.

No steam, he does not pour water into the pot.

"Semyon Semyonych!"I see! I was also surprised by the words about the pan getting hot... I have a steel connection: pan = something good in it

Comrade Zhuk described it perfectly. True, it seemed to me that it was necessary to inflate with a warm vrzdukh from the inside, and here it turns out warm STEAM from the outside, but if the color does not suffer, then OK.

The pot is empty. It just needs to be pricked so that there is hot air inside and that's it.

Och curious!Thank you Zhuk!

And how long does it take for a poplar hawkmoth goose to cook in a pot?

Well, about 25-30 minutes. Naturally, the better the caterpillar is painted, the faster it will dry out.

I used to dry it in an electric bulb at one time. I cut off the base and inserted a caterpillar on a straw into the hole, and put an alcohol burner under the flask. In place of the bulb, you can use glass from a kerosene lamp.
For inflating caterpillars (large ones like cocoonworms, hawk moth), you can use a small aquarium compressor.

Thank you, really interesting. And the saucepan just doesn't start to stink after 25 minutes ???

And the saucepan just doesn't start to stink after 25 minutes ???

You need a clean saucepan, otherwise you never know what was there... If everything is clean, then it doesn't stink.

I tried to pump it with silicone sealant, the shape is slightly deformed when drying (so it's better to dry) and tried it in a completely wild way, filled it with paraffin through a syringe, the result is super, but the nerves are needed even more sharply than with drying

here with paraffin is ppc.... I couldn't stand it

This post was edited by Zhuk - 21.10.2008 21: 58

I paraffin filled loach hawk moth and unpaired, of course it turned out super... by the way to preserve the blue color it is recommended to wash the skin after squeezing out the intestines and so on not with a strong solution of soli

Please tell me how to dry a small (0.5-5 mm) larva fixed in alcohol so that it does not shrink?
And the second question. If the larva is wrinkled in alcohol, can it be straightened?

Please tell me how to dry a small (0.5-5 mm) larva fixed in alcohol so that it does not shrink?
And the second question. If the larva is wrinkled in alcohol, can it be straightened?

I think after alcohol everything is always wrinkled, even very hard-bodied larvae after a while a little wrinkled.
And it is impossible to straighten the larva that has become stiffened in alcohol, it simply breaks in half...

I once waved a net on an alder tree,as a large caterpillar of some kind of Ribbon caught in the net, a large one with a structure like an alder twig.
In general, I cut it from the bottom from the head to the bottom, then pulled out all the limbs and it decreased by 2 times, lost color like spiders...In short, I stuffed it with cotton wool for 10-15 minutes ,after two weeks I took it out for a look and threw it in the trash, it became one brown shade and winced...

Thank you very much to Zhuk, and then I was completely out of tune

compare the progress, and only in less than a month, even if I can already
[attachmentid ()=117611] [attachmentid()=117612] [attachmentid()=117613]

In general, in my experience...

You don't need to cut anything. If the caterpillar is naked, or in sparse hairs, you can simply roll it with a pencil, everything will pop up by itself. Start at about 1/10 of the anal opening, then further and finally from the head to the very end. Then drive in the straw, if there is a fragment of the intestine-well, firstly, because it is better to stick to the straw, and secondly, you can tie a thread directly behind the intestine, the back pair of pseudopods will remain intact. You can dry it not in a pot, but just over the tile, the main thing is to turn all the time with different sides to the heat.

Difficulties arise with hairy and very hairy caterpillars. They have all the beauty peeled off when rolling. Then you have to hold your head in a fork of two pins and mercilessly tear the insides with thin tweezers with long ends. True, when inflated, some caterpillars will still lose all their beauty - the caterpillars of volnyanok, for example, which have four dense brushes on the back. When blowing them stretches like an accordion and it turns out byaka. I still haven't decided what to do with this problem.

Spiders can be dried in the same way as caterpillars, but the belly will still shrink slightly when dried. It will be about 10% smaller than the original. If the spider is small, you can do something else. Cut off the belly and just roll it on paper, which is heated from the bottom with tiles. The paper should darken from the heat, but, of course, it is not necessary to bring it to a fire. In this case, the uppermost layers of fabrics will dry and harden first, they will keep their shape. Shrinkage is insignificant, deformations occur, but rarely.

In the same way, you can inflate abscesses-T-shirts, but grasshoppers will no longer work - the covers are elastic, the belly swells like a balloon. However, in the case of larvae, this may not seem like a big problem.

Tracks:



Spiders:





Inflated tank top and deracantha larva:

So in the same way you can inflate abscesses-T-shirts

You mean you need to cut off the belly?

No, why? Right in the ass, like a caterpillar. Only spiders have to have their bellies cut off.

There's another ambush. In some species, the cuticle itself is translucent, and the color and pattern are created by the underlying tissues. For example, this is the theme of spiders-"krestovikov". When squeezed out, if you overdo it, the bryuzo will become dirty-translucent, and if you don't overdo it and leave some of the "material" inside, it will begin to deform when drying. In short, a double-edged sword.

and I do this:
on a small rectangle of PVC foam with pins(B) I attach an insect, a spider, insert a straw and fix it near the entrance to the abdomen with wire(P) right through the "plates" and twist it tightly from the bottom,the result is satisfactory,although I first dried the spider a little over the fire,and then dried it in the freezer,the result is excellent(no shrinkage,no damage,no loss of color), but T-shirts over the fire with zhurilisya elytra
here are two schemes and results

Pictures:

P1010945.JPG — (297.84к)


P1010946.JPG — (311.3к)


P1010948.JPG — (289.98к)


P1010949.JPG — (292.84к)


P1010950.JPG — (286.72к)


P1010951.JPG — (282.08к)


P1010952.JPG — (287.26к)

In general, in my experience...

You don't need to cut anything. If the caterpillar is naked, or in sparse hairs, you can simply roll it with a pencil, everything will pop up by itself. Start at about 1/10 of the anal opening, then further and finally from the head to the very end. Then drive in the straw, if there is a fragment of the intestine-well, firstly, because it is better to stick to the straw, and secondly, you can tie a thread directly behind the intestine, the back pair of pseudopods will remain intact. You can dry it not in a pot, but just over the tile, the main thing is to turn all the time with different sides to the heat.

Difficulties arise with hairy and very hairy caterpillars. They have all the beauty peeled off when rolling. Then you have to hold your head in a fork of two pins and mercilessly tear the insides with thin tweezers with long ends. True, when inflated, some caterpillars will still lose all their beauty - the caterpillars of volnyanok, for example, which have four dense brushes on the back. When blowing them stretches like an accordion and it turns out byaka. I still haven't decided what to do with this problem.

I roll the cap from the needle of the syringe.carefully and smoothly everything turns
out to be tied with a thin wire.and it is not afraid of fire and reusable
I recently found a solution - I put the caterpillar between two layers of napkins and roll it through them.the skin does not get dirty and turns out quite neatly.another problem with particularly shaggy ones..from the heat, long hairs turn from straight to curly and sometimes change color
otherwise, I completely agree

+ to everything, some caterpillars after inflating ,or rather during the process, change color, I recently dried a harpy, so it turned from green to reddish and some others also change color, I don't know how to deal with this, who knows?

This post was edited by Collector - 01.09.2011 21: 33

What should I do with the color?

At the expense of color, I heard that you can use mounting foam (but only professional, which is slightly inflated and white). First you need to gut it, then blow the foam into any container, then after 3-4 minutes type it into a syringe and blow it, for example, into a caterpillar. If you do this, the size will increase after full inflating by about 20%, after which you can already dry. I did it myself, but they said that in most cases the color is preserved. Who has already done this, please let us know.

for example, I have some geese " changed color immediately after evisceration (for example: the white harpy changed from green to red, and the poplar.brazhn. almost instantly it turned black)

A few days ago, in Germany, we discussed how to preserve the color of caterpillars and dragonflies...
The advice was: "minus 60 degrees." Said: "EXPENSIVE, but reliable"...
I think that for Russians, expensive is not a problem... Where can I get this refrigerator???
Well, with God!

Pictures:

DSC08110.JPG — (2.27мб)

well, in a regular freezer they are saved, but what now, the freezer tracks to score?

A few days ago, in Germany, we discussed how to preserve the color of caterpillars and dragonflies...
The advice was: "minus 60 degrees." Said: "EXPENSIVE, but reliable"...
I think that for Russians, expensive is not a problem... Where can I get this refrigerator???
Well, with God!

To ensure -60, you need to write technical specifications, order development in St. Petersburg, based on very multi-layered Peltier elements. This is expensive, the device will be very voracious, heavy and voluminous.

From what is currently on the market, the best is made in Russia
http://www.gardi.ru/arctic20m.php
and other models in this series.
It seems to me that there are just multi-layered elements, but without fanaticism.

It provides a temperature difference relative to the street, 34 degrees in minus or plus.

That is, at +25 overboard, the camera will be -9

You can also carry liquid nitrogen with you, but it evaporates quickly and the thermos is heavy. First freeze with nitrogen, then place the material in this refrigerator and cover with frozen cold accumulators. But this may not work, because the efficiency of the refrigerator will drop due to exceeding the threshold temperature difference. It would be more correct to cool the external surface, then the efficiency will increase, but this is impossible due to design features. We need a special design.

I think you have enough resources for a few days.

Stationary cryostats that provide the required temperature of -60 and below will not be suitable for you, because they are large - http://www.pribor.ru/k_ob/192.html
Or will they fit?

A traditional compressor freon freezer can provide good freezing even at +25.
You can search this way -
http://gradalyans.ru/holodilniki/holodilni...tic-rpf-50.html
To transport it, you will need a minibus, an additional fan to cool the radiator, and a generator to power it.
In this case, cold accumulators can be placed in the chamber, this will improve the stability of freezing.

Or you can bring the material alive and let the Germans freeze it in a cryostat.

This post was edited by Seneka - 12.10.2011 11: 20

When drying in acetone, the color disappears in the same way as during normal drying?

all) I learned ) here article by the way) I wrote


This post was edited by Collector - 27.04.2012 18: 35

A little nagging.

Comic sans in the design of the site-movetone.
And also "finger movements".
And spermatozoa floating out of the hotplate
By the way, if the caterpillar is completely dry, it rustles if you move a pin over it.

A little nagging.

Comic sans in the design of the site-movetone.
And also "finger movements".
And spermatozoa floating out of the hotplate
By the way, if the caterpillar is completely dry, it rustles if you move a pin over it.

what is movetone?

I don't know how else to describe finger movements
"spermatozoa" et teplo))

Bad tone. In this case, it is not a mistake, but something that spoils the overall appearance. Comic sans was often used by novice web designers and eventually became something of a detector of a poorly designed site with primitive content.

"Movements" with your finger, not "movements"

aa)
and comic Sans I specially made everywhere, I like it, so rounded, beautiful

The collector! Good job! If only 4.5% of us did this (or that) like you, it would be super. And don't pay attention to Bianor, "it" is not worthy of this," it " is the opposite of what was said to you at the beginning, continue in this spirit, and everything will be OK...