Pest control of insects collections

I think that the following information will be relevant for those who have the material stored at home (that is, the classic methods of protection by etching are not very suitable for obvious reasons).
The general point is this: the best way to protect yourself is with a condom
Boxes - both with a tattoo and with mattresses - I put in a plastic bag (attention: no damage! better a new one). For large tattoo boxes, garbage bags that are sold in the form of rolls are very well suited. I tie the package in a knot - and that's it, the leather eater will not pass!
To prevent the enemy from attacking the straighteners, you have to turn around a little. You can't put them in bags: air must pass through so that it dries. I came up with the idea to sew from a light but dense cotton fabric (such as laboratory napkins) covers in the form of a "tube" of such a diameter that the straightener passes freely with the pins stuck in. We spread out the insects, carefully push the straightener into the cover, and tighten the open ends of the cover with a bank elastic band. Now the material can be dried even for weeks, even for months - not only will the leatherworm not get there, but the dust will not settle!
I guessed that the leather-eater would not think to drill a napkin, remembering the Soviet housewives-how they wrapped their strategic stocks of clothes in the closet in sheets And checked it - from personal experience (3 years).

I don't do collecting, but at the request of a friend, I collected the material. I store it in a non-straightened form on sintepon mattresses in a hermetically sealed box. No one can get in there, but beetles show up sometimes, and they'll probably pop up when you dry them out. And they use something like dichlorvos, naphthalene, etc., too, I would not, if these are entomological boxes, they are unlikely to be sealed. With bags for garbage-it's just wonderful! I also use them for a long time to isolate something from the external environment.

This post was edited by sealor - 09/20/2005 19: 41

Why don't you want to use insecticide? Now on sale are completely odorless(if this is the problem).The proposed method is certainly reliable,but in my opinion, it is more pleasant when just the boxes are worth it

My boxes are very tightly closed and I carefully apply dichlorvos 2-3 times a year on the walls of the boxes, so far everything is fine.

There is a problem with household insecticides: most of them are not really insecticides, but repellents. Moreover, the manufacturer usually does not report this. If any antimoli is marked "harmless to humans and pets" - most likely, there is a repellent. And the repellent is like this: for many years, a skin-eater may not visit, and then he will take it and climb. I myself used plant repellents (wormwood) for a long time with this result: for five years everything is OK, and in one beautiful day hello to you, have eaten
Actually working insecticides are not so much smelly as harmful to health with prolonged contact, and are suitable for museums, not for apartments.
As for the tightly closed boxes , there is another ambush. When opening and closing, an air wave is created. Delicate butterflies like moths can break their wings (it was).
Boxes in bags are unsightly, and getting them out for work is a chore, I agree. But is there an equally reliable alternative?

This post was edited by Helene - 09/21/2005 13: 25

How do I protect myself from pests? Extremely simple!
Duct tape. Boxes in winter on the balcony. And that's it!

How do I protect myself from pests? Extremely simple!
Duct tape. Boxes in winter on the balcony. And that's it!

Scotch tape is the same principle as bags, but more aesthetically pleasing. But the boxes are a pity! The adhesive tape gradually corrodes the varnish, and if the box is covered with paper...
Low temperatures don't always kill the skin-eater, because there are more than one species, and some species can go into diapause. And after coming out of diapause, they have sooooo vital energy! In addition, for straightened butterflies, this method is not suitable at all: from the temperature and humidity difference, the wings warp.

Ruslan Mishustin on his website insect-hunter recommends putting pieces of dog-cat flea collars in boxes.
And the most valuable material can be stored in the freezer. True, the freezer is of course only suitable for boxes of non-straightened insects.
"Enemies" produce such paper leaves (I saw them at Yu. I. Budashkin) - you put them in a box and no one eats anything. But where to get them (leaves)?
Personally, I use mothballs. True, I don't have a special collection, so I have a lot of experience too. I collect material for others and usually don't keep it for a long time myself.

This post was edited by okoem - 09.01.2006 09: 03

2okoem: Naphthalene is also a repellent, not an insecticide (experts enlightened). If there is no leatherhead, it will scare you away. And if you already have it, it will wait for the material to finish. Moreover, naphthalene is very harmful to humans. So throw out the outdated tool.
But what really works from the old tools is dichlorvos. It's an insecticide. As far as I know, this is the only way to save the infected rasp (not counting freezing, which is not always guaranteed). Just spray directly on the straightener or on impaled insects (if the insects are fragile, like butterflies , then keep the canister not too close, so that the air jet does not break off the wings). Unlike modern long-lasting aerosols, dichlorvos does not leave an oily film after drying - this is the trick.

To Helene
Apparently you came across a good dichlorvos. in fact, it just leaves oily streaks (try to spray on white paper...), because the active substance in it is dissolved in some of the petroleum products. Yes, and when it gets on the foam-dichlorvos "eats" it. Now you can just get rid of kozheedov promoroziv material. I guarantee that at -30, which are currently standing, everything will come up during the night (12 hours or more). Our collections do not include native species (such as the museum type), but rather more exotic ones - motley, Polish, etc. For You. "I have a job on leatherworms-pests of museum collections. If you are interested, I can send you an email version. just tell me where to send it.

Well, then I can offer bromomethyl as an insecticide. Gas without color and smell (for smell, chloropicrin is added to it), poisons everyone, from insects to mammals, leaves no traces. However, there are nuances - it is very toxic (military toxic substance of the 1st class of danger), and roads.

To Bad Den
What a joker you are! You would also suggest phosgene or CS.
But seriously, Brommetil really poisons everyone well, but after processing the collection and the room, you need to ventilate for a month!

And you go on vacation

Aha, and during this time, such hordes of leatherworms will run together, and you will have to poison them again and again!

Ventilate... no problem at all
A gas mask on your head, open windows, a couple of floor fans - you can be in the room in a day
But phosgene is not, it is more capricious, if it does not work properly, you can set a fire

And apart from jokes - I just pack boxes tightly in cellophane, you can also stick a Raptor plate or other similar Fumitox in the box. So far (3x spitting over the left shoulder) no one has been eaten.

And "D" - we will have EVERYTHING! I mean, DRIVE WITH YOUR HANDS.....

No, I am a Dzanat only when I write the name of a guest in my home."D " is then written. For my dichlorvos

Consonant!:)
Show me the estimate?

For particularly interested persons, please write to the soap.

People, stop flooding! Dzanat - you are a provocateur.

To Helene
Apparently you came across a good dichlorvos. in fact, it just leaves oily streaks (try to spray on white paper...), because the active substance in it is dissolved in some of the petroleum products.
Yes, and when it gets on the foam-dichlorvos "eats" it.

I've had to spray butterflies - no trace of them... and you were sure you had dichlorvos, not a raid or something like that? Or maybe dichlorvos now also has a prolonged version? Although it is possible that oil products of different degrees of purification can be used to dissolve the active principle. If we recall the spread of organoleptic properties of Russian products such as kefir... anything can happen...
Styrofoam-yes, it dissolves. Therefore, the foam should not be sprayed.

For You. "I have a job on leatherworms-pests of museum collections. If you are interested, I can send you an email version. just tell me where to send it.

Interesting. If it is small , I have soap in my profile.

Can you spray dichlorvos? Especially, by the way, the protection of butterflies is relevant while it is drying on the straightener. The box is tightly closed - that's all, and on the straightening machine without any protection for two or more weeks... What should I do?

I did this, and everything worked out fine: the oil product evaporated without a trace, the skin eaters died. True, the wings were a little warped, for the sake of aesthetics, I had to re-wet someone. Kozheed, by the way, laid eggs on butterflies on rasprovilka.
After this episode, I came up with the idea to protect the straighteners themselves. In principle, I started this topic with this, but now I'll repeat: I spent a fair amount of time and sewed (with a sewing machine) a cover in the form of a tube made of cotton cloth like laboratory napkins for each straightening. The straightener freely enters together with the pins, and is tightened on both sides with bank elastic bands. I haven't heard of anyone else doing this, I've come up with it myself now and they don't visit, ugh, ugh, and you can dry the butterflies longer - they don't get dusty
And dichlorvos is still an extreme measure, so Elizar says that it can be some kind of fig...

And dichlorvos is still an extreme measure, so Elizar says that it can be some kind of fig...

Do you still have a can of that one?" It would be possible to compare the marking, maybe the manufacturers are different, etc.

Do you still have a can of that one?" It would be possible to compare the marking, maybe the manufacturers are different, etc.

It seems to have been preserved. When I get home , I'll take a look.

I have JSC "Arnest" Stavropol Territory, Nevinnomyssk, Kombinatskaya str., 6
Composition: alcohol, isobutane, propane, butane, PPB synergist, dimethyl sulfoxide, permethrin, cypermethrin, tetramethrin, corrosion inhibitor.
But I spray only on the walls of the box, I think this is enough.

About Dichlorvos.
A friend sprayed it in a box, next to the butterflies.
Whether it still got a little on them, or from fumes, but the fact that some of the wings appeared dark spots In addition, to complete unreadability blurred label on one of the copies. The styrofoam seems to be intact, but I didn't look closely.
It would be exactly "Dichlorvos".
I read the composition - a bunch of some chemistry, the names of the components of course do not remember, but the smell is not the same as it was in the old Soviet "Dichlorvos", and flavored.
In general, it is obvious that dichlorvos is different from dichlorvos.

About Dichlorvos.
A friend sprayed it in a box, next to the butterflies..............
I read the composition - a bunch of some chemistry, the names of the components of course do not remember, but the smell is not the same as it was in the old Soviet "Dichlorvos", and flavored.
In general, it is obvious that dichlorvos is different from dichlorvos.

Clear... So, and our began to improve all sorts of additives That look normal dichlorvos will not remain
Look at your own, I confess, I forgot (the caterpillars distracted). But I remembered that there was also an Arnest company, like Guest D.
And the foam had to melt anyway: apparently it just didn't hit.

I agree! The problem of saving content is a PROBLEM with a capital letter.
Naphthalene, dichlorvos and other aerosols are not suitable (aggressive, toxic to the entomologist, not aesthetic). At our institute, a powder of some kind of pyrethroid is actively used. the result is there, but they say that pyrethroids are the way to lung cancer.
Personally, I use it myself-sealed bags + annual freezing of hermetically packed mattresses (so that there is no condensation). Freezing boxes with pins is not recommended. I have so once butterflies wings poopuskali.
At one time I tried crystal camphor, but I refused - they say it's bad for the heart. To neutralize already infected material, I even used a microwave oven in a gentle mode (the main thing is not to forget to pull out the pin). But I don't recommend doing this for valuable copies. Sometimes it was necessary to remove the copy from the pin and wash it in boiling water. It helped 100%. Of course, it is only suitable for some beetles.
But first of all, you need to practice TIGHTNESS. Vacuum boxes should be implemented. They say Fins use them....
Yes, and often shake up the collection. Bark beetles do not like to be disturbed often.

And with dichlorvos, it is also necessary to be literate, why do the labels indicate that they are damaged by fumigation? They shouldn't.
Everyone has long been used to mothballs - "bark beetles".

Vacuum boxes should be implemented. They say the Fins use them....

I don't understand... Vacuum - how is it???!!!
Even when the lid of the box is very tightly fitted, it happens that when opening, a vacuum is created... small moth and micro wings fly!

Well of course the leatherheads
And about vacuum boxes, I heard there is such a miracle: a sealed plastic box with a built-in valve. I closed it, carefully pumped out the air with a special pump, and that's it: the enemy will not pass!!! I wanted to open it: I opened the valve a little and everything is fine...
But, I repeat, I only heard about these boxes, I didn't hold them in my hands.

This post was edited by scarabee - 02/26/2006 08: 58

I agree! The problem of saving content is a PROBLEM with a capital letter.
Naphthalene, dichlorvos and other aerosols are not suitable (aggressive, toxic to the entomologist, not aesthetic). At our institute, a powder of some kind of pyrethroid is actively used. the result is there, but they say that pyrethroids are the way to lung cancer.
Personally, I use it myself-sealed bags + annual freezing of hermetically packed mattresses (so that there is no condensation). Freezing boxes with pins is not recommended. I have so once butterflies wings poopuskali.
At one time I tried crystal camphor, but I refused - they say it's bad for the heart. To neutralize already infected material, I even used a microwave oven in a gentle mode (the main thing is not to forget to pull out the pin). But I don't recommend doing this for valuable copies. Sometimes it was necessary to remove the copy from the pin and wash it in boiling water. It helped 100%. Of course, it is only suitable for some beetles.
But first of all, you need to practice TIGHTNESS. Vacuum boxes should be implemented. They say Fins use them....
Yes, and often shake up the collection. Bark beetles do not like to be disturbed often.

I support the author, described close to my experiences :-). Your experience - regular inspection, freezing (freezer, 18 degrees of frost for a couple of weeks-from kozheedov and hay eaters like saved). Pyrethroids, and especially organophosphate poisons - yesterday. If you want to work with chemistry - I advise you to pay attention to neonicotinoids etc. new (based on imidacloprid, acetamiprid etc) - preparations for protecting plants from INSECTS ( i.e., not from ticks too) - Mospilan, Confidor, Aktara and analogues, including Russian ones. In plant protection, they STILL clearly rule, they do not have a smell, taste and special color: -))). Less dangerous for humans.

2okoem: Naphthalene is also a repellent, not an insecticide (experts enlightened). If there is no leatherhead, it will scare you away. And if you already have it, it will wait for the material to finish. Moreover, naphthalene is very harmful to humans. So throw out the outdated tool.
But what really works from the old tools is dichlorvos. It's an insecticide. As far as I know, this is the only way to save the infected rasp (not counting freezing, which is not always guaranteed). Just spray directly on the straightener or on impaled insects (if the insects are fragile, like butterflies , then keep the canister not too close, so that the air jet does not break off the wings). Unlike modern long-lasting aerosols, dichlorvos does not leave an oily film after drying - this is the trick.

Almost right.
Only here naphthalene is not even a repellent, but a camouflage, i.e. with its smell it simply "clogs" the natural smell of dry insects. To actually protect your collections, you had to create a maximum concentration, which is far from safe. After all, naphthalene is a toxic substance for warm-blooded animals. That is why it is now practically not sold openly.

In order not just to "hide" insects behind a gas curtain, but to really protect them, it is better to use paradichlorobenzene. By the way, on its basis, the well-known drug "Antimol"is made. Although this one smells like bitter almonds (although it has nothing to do with cyanides), it still kills not only imagos, but also larvae.

To protect the collection without an unpleasant smell, you can use contact poisons based on pyrethroids rather than fumigants. Warm-blooded animals are not very sensitive to them, but they are very effective against insects. However, recently there have been lines that are resistant even to such specific poisons.

The use of dichlorvos (as well as other aerosols) can cause problems with safety due to the presence of insufficiently purified solvents (usually kerosene).

PS By the way, instead of fabric bags, I can suggest using a "Spunboard". Convenient, cheap and efficient.

I have been etching boxes and mattresses with Raptor (blue) spray for crawling insects for several years now. So far, the effect is quite good. It is practically odorless.

I spray aerosol insecticides on the inner walls of the cabinet where the boxes are located. A very good method is to wet a thick wad of cotton wool with formalin and put it on a small saucer in a cabinet with boxes. My methods are only suitable for those who keep collections in closets with sliding doors.

Please tell me who has experience. There is a thermal cabinet, if you try to fry the boxes in which the leatherworm started up in it. What is the optimal temperature and how long should the cabinet be kept at this temperature?

I would not recommend sprinkling boxes with the material-I used to do this before and droplets of this stuff accumulated on the beetles. Now I pin a matchbox with cotton wool inside in each box and once every three months I open this box and put ordinary dichlorvos in it.
With mattresses, I do the same - a sealed bag + mattresses + a matchbox with dichlorophos cotton wool. I hadn't seen a leatherworm in five years, although I did occasionally come across houses - but I only found larvae under the baseboards.

The previous message is mine, I didn't log in right away...