Features of light catching

Well, first of all, the throttle diagram is shown. We connect them sequentially.

By the way, are halogen lamps not suitable for this purpose?
(if anything, I didn't catch the light)

Halos, I understand, are good if there are no other light sources around. In general, insects are attracted to UV and apparently, all other things being equal, they fly to the light source, the UV radiation from which is stronger.

P. S. I didn't catch the light on purpose, just if there was such an opportunity (insects flew around the lamp), then I didn't miss it

This post was edited by Bad Den - 05/31/2006 12: 52

Found us in Nizhny Novgorod, where you can buy DRL and all the gadgets for it, all the fun (cartridge, throttle, lamp) - 502 rubles.

2 Morozzz
By the way, what kind of UV protection glasses do you recommend? I also wear regular glasses, how much do they protect from UV?

A few more??. How can you protect yourself when using DRL from the fact that it does not set fire to something around? How close is the minimum distance from it to hang the screen so that it does not burn through?
Does it (split DRL) emit only in UV, or in the visible spectrum too? Don't you need another 1 ordinary light bulb to illuminate the screen, so as not to shy away in the dark?

And what kind of wire to use with it (0.75 is the cross-section? in cm or in mm?)?

This post was edited by Bad Den - 05/31/2006 14: 16

I agree with the latter: often with the use of UV, you can't see anything around you except the screen.. and many do not fly to the screen, but sit next to and around it.. if the usual one is lit nearby, it eclipses the uv.. what to do? I must say right away that it is not possible to use two sources.

A "normal" lamp cannot obscure UV. Why is she overshadowing him?

to Morozzz
and those who are on an armored car-I clarify my request: through a converter from a low-voltage source, and not from the 220 network. The power on the lamp is not important, the main thing is to work in the arc discharge mode, and not smoldering.

to andr_mich: Sorry, I don't know.

to Bad Den: and regular glass protects against UV. But very bright. You need good dark glasses with a high degree of protection, some kind of cap with a visor, the lamp is hung at a height of about 2.5 m
.the 0.75 wire is quite suitable, I use this one.
Cartridge for DRL-250-E40
The lamp will not burn through anything. It is hung like any other at a distance of 50-70 cm from the screen. But here's the catch - hang the lamp above the screen and don't look directly at it, and the screen should be at your height.
NO ADDITIONAL LIGHT BULB is REQUIRED for illumination. The split DRL gives a VERY bright white blinding light!

andr_mih
Please specify what "via converter" means? There are different types of converters. There is a converter -12 - > ~220 as a special case, I think many people thought about this. There are frequency converters that can be turned on directly.

 
to Bad Den: and regular glass protects against UV. But very bright. You need good dark glasses with a high degree of protection, some kind of cap with a visor, the lamp is hung at a height of about 2.5 m.

The cap, yes, I've already thought of it
And the fact that glasses with photochromic glasses ("chameleons"), a large "piano will not play"? Just the design of "dark+regular glasses" is not very reliable, dark glasses fall off when moving. I just can't wear dark glasses, I can't see any further than my nose

Butterflies, even the most restless ones, will sooner or later still settle somewhere nearby, just on the screen. the height is quite suitable: the screen is at the optimal distance, the eyes are exposed to much less impact (if you hang the lamp in front of your eyes, directly in front of the screen, then you still have to look at it - that's how I caught the bunny), If the lamp is high enough, then you can see it from afar.
Wire 0.75 cm.
About glasses: dark, not dark-the main thing is to protect from UV.
A cap with a visor, a hat are needed for additional protection of the eyes and face skin. After the night of May 14, I was like after a week in the south.
Please don't look directly at the lamp. Otherwise, in the morning the eyes will tear, and in another four hours-the tear will be even stronger.
You can be cured (if you have seen enough) in a day or two. I instilled actovegin with inocaine in my eyes, put tea compresses on my eyes. Derinat dripped into my nose. After all, in addition to keratoconjunctivitis, there was also rhinitis - snot flowed.
Now, here, I learned from experience and the weekend before last I fished safely.

to sealor
Well, of course, frequency, and not 12 > 220V 50Hz with an efficiency of 70 % or lower. Feeding such a fool from an autonomous source through a 50-Hertz converter and even through a standard throttle weighing up to 5 kg is an unacceptable luxury. The best RF converters for low-pressure LDS power supply have an efficiency of up to 95%, but there the ignition scheme is fundamentally different.

I wonder if anyone has ever tried to catch a BMW xenon headlight in the field? It consumes about 35 watts, and shines on all 100. By the way, finding a diagram for it is also a problem.

The throttle for DRL does not weigh 5 kg, something about 400 grams, as far as I understand

Do you know how much a xenon headlight costs, especially for BMW?
DRL will be much more profitable

Between LDS( lum. lamps) DRV and DRL do not have a big difference, all lamps are gas-discharge, only they differ in the gas pressure in the flask and, accordingly, the power consumption. From the pulse converter, the DRL will also light up, only the power will be the same as the converter is designed for, no higher. Instead of a choke, you can use a capacitor if through a conventional network. 10mkf at 220v gives the DRL400 bulb a power of approx. 100W.

As for the throttle, it depends on what power. For the DRL400, the throttle does not weigh 5, but approx. 3kg exactly! But it is not necessary to light it at all 400W! Then the animals will just sit around, the screen will not fly

Wire 0.75 cm.

The wire needs a cross-section of 0.5 or 0.75 mm2. If you take 0.75 cm2, it will be a vein as thick as the little finger.

to sealor
To feed such a fool from an autonomous source through a 50-hertz converter and even through a regular throttle weighing up to 5 kg is an unacceptable luxury.
I wonder if anyone has ever tried to catch a BMW xenon headlight in the field? It consumes about 35 watts, and shines on all 100. By the way, finding a diagram for it is also a problem.

I use a 12v-220v converter, 375 watts + DRV 250. The battery lasts for four hours, then you have to start the engine for 30-40 minutes (without turning off the lamp). True, not everywhere you can catch, if you do not drive up closer.
I tried on the headlights (I have xenon), it flies much worse than on the lamp. It shines low and in one direction.

That's just it! And if there is no car, but only a small battery in the backpack - how often will it have to be recharged
And the headlight should be removed, the glass cap - to the side and hang on a tree, hang a sheet-maybe it will be no worse to fly, and it's safe for the eyes.

Colleagues, why does no one use a portable portable generator like all normal people?

Because a portable portable generator requires fuel, not particularly light and not exactly cheap, yes.

As for the throttle, it depends on what power. For the DRL400, the throttle does not weigh 5, but approx. 3kg exactly!

I looked at it now - for the DRL250, the throttle weighs 2.7 kg. (closed)

Colleagues, why does no one use a portable portable generator like all normal people?

Quite portable and portable costs 900 euros. And for 200 it weighs 20 kg. I catch it two or three times a year (for several nights). There's nowhere to store it either. That's why we don't keep it-p.

to entomolog@mail.ru: sorry, exactly mm

This weekend I tried out this method of collecting: At the dacha in the attic, I opened the window and fitted a lamp there. Almost everything flew in there. He himself was on the street under the windows and caught what was flying nearby. At 2 o'clock in the morning, I got up, closed the window, calmly gathered everyone I needed.
Both effective and safe for the eyes.

And all night I suffered from mosquitoes, midges and the rest

Everything, lamp, throttle and cartridge purchased
And in this regard, new questions have arisen - how to connect the throttle? (I understand that "consistently", but I'm in electrical engineering moreover, understand little-little )
A diagram is drawn on it (see Fig.), but I still don't understand why to connect the wire from pin 2 and the second wire (pin 2, it seems, is not involved; in any case, nothing goes from it to the throttle, at first glance). By the way, electricians recommended using a 1.5 mm2 wire for a 250 W DRL

As I understand it, everything is great if there is a power source. I'm interested in this kind of thing. What can you really do with night fishing in conditions of complete lack of greenery and a two-week hike? Dial ten halogen flashlights

Of course, the wire is better than 1.5 if you connect the DRL, so it is more reliable. And the middle contact is obviously ground. If this is the case, then if there is no certainty that the "second wire" is not a phase, then it is dangerous to connect it! You just need to turn on the throttle winding, the lamp, and the remaining two ends in series in the socket.
You can not turn on the lamp directly or short-circuit it, otherwise it may break.

Nilson:
I read once in an article, and now a friend confirmed that you can make a lantern from LEDs, they eat a little, but they shine well, fishing is also going on, although I don't know how strong it is, so everyone has enough!

Nilson:
I read once in an article, and now a friend confirmed that you can make a lantern from LEDs, they eat a little, but they shine well, fishing is also going on, although I don't know how strong it is, so everyone has enough!

Yes, so, I think - it's easier for me to buy a dozen Chinese LEDs and batteries for them. I can't take any device weighing more than 5 kg with me...

Of course, the wire is better than 1.5 if you connect the DRL, so it is more reliable. And the middle contact is obviously ground.

No, the ground connection is drawn separately there.
I don't remember exactly the whole scheme right now, but I'll post a drawing later.

I can't take any device weighing more than 5 kg with me...

Why?

Why?

It's simple-weight is very critical. You often have to wander around with tourists: there, passes to the border zone, entrances, a common room - all this is easier in a group, not to mention the fact that you don't want to go to Central Asia or Ossetia alone. It turns out a semi-sports trip, where even spoons with holes. A backpack weighing more than 30 kg is hard for my body to digest, which is exactly how much it goes on an average two-week hike (this is after some of the cargo is already hidden in the drop).

It's simple-weight is very critical. You often have to wander around with tourists: there, passes to the border zone, entrances, a common room - all this is easier in a group, not to mention the fact that you don't want to go to Central Asia or Ossetia alone. It turns out a semi-sports trip, where even spoons with holes. A backpack weighing more than 30 kg is hard for my body to digest, which is exactly how much it goes on an average two-week hike (this is after some of the cargo is already hidden in the drop).

I see...
The average car battery weighs just 20-25 kilograms If several people" united by one idea " go, then you can divide the luggage: 1 carries things, the second-the battery...

P. S. I was offered about a year ago to buy quite cheap (about 1000 rubles) battery toli from the tank, toli from the BMP-2, almost new-now I think, maybe in vain refused?

I looked at the pictures, so it's just a three-pin terminal block, you need to connect only to those contacts from which the wires go away.
My scheme doesn't differ much from yours:

Pictures:

drl.gif — (6.99к)

I looked at the pictures, so it's just a three-pin terminal block, you need to connect only to those contacts from which the wires go away.
My scheme doesn't differ much from yours:

By the way, what pictures are they on?
On my fingers - there are 2 wires in the cable, I connect 1 wire without breaking it to the lamp, and I cut the second one and connect it to the throttle contacts?
If you connect it incorrectly, what can burn out first, the throttle or the lamp?

This post was edited by Bad Den - 06.06.2006 14: 22

The pictures are from Google, but I haven't seen DRL400 of various modifications, there are some like this. where the terminal block is three-pin, and there are where two.

No, not much wrong, the" first " wire of the cable to the lamp(to the first contact pad of the toron), from the second contact pad of the cartridge wire to the first wire of the throttle, and the "second" wire of the throttle to the second wire of the cable. That's how.

If you do not connect it correctly, there are several options - either only the cable will burn, or the lamp will burn. There is little chance of burning the throttle if it is initially good.

If the throttle is turned over (so that the "second" contact becomes the "first" one), nothing fundamentally changes?

No, it won't change. In the household network, single-phase current and alternating current.

Yeah... got it...
Also, to be sure - a search line from Google (for photos of drossell DRL) Which one did you use?