Features of light catching

Imperceptibly, a spammer with an ad for electric breadcrumbs slipped through.

Thank you.

Can anyone provide links to similar studies? Thank you in advance.

I tried to insert a file, but it doesn't work.

The post was edited by kovyl - 26.06.2020 11: 52

Friends, please advise me.
I feed a 250 W DRL lamp and a 125 W beater from one 1 kW generator (I don't start it at the same time). I place the mallet above the screen on a mast made of a fishing rod.
Both chokes (sealed) during operation, they heat up very much (you can't take the case with your hand), but there have never been any problems with the 250-watt throttle, but the 125-watt throttle is the second one that has been burned out recently. After 2-4 hours of operation, it starts to smoke and fails.
Wiring to both lamps of the same cross-section, never frayed and does not spark (checked), insulated very reliably. With an electrician, I always prefer to overdo it, taking into account the dew and possible rain. The mallet is normal, new.
I don't know what's going on. Just passed the service life? It's strange, because I've had a 250W choke for many years.

This post was edited by PhilGri-30.06.2020 01: 30

The fact that the throttles are heated is not a crime, the permissible temperature on them is up to 120C (+ another 65-75C before the accident), although usually significantly less. If the lamp confidently lights up and does not go out, and the throttle quickly fails, then the picture looks like the throttle on the 125 W lamp does not cope with compensating for the increasing current when the lamp heats up. This may be due to several reasons:
1) insufficient cross-section of a rather long wire from it to the lamp on the mast. Put a wire with a cross-section of one conductor of at least 2.5 square mm.
2) the beater can't be more powerful than 125W? It sounds silly, but it's worth checking out. I do not exclude that the beater from the DRV can also be ignited by this scheme. For example, the DRV 500 does not split works from the lamp for the DRL 400. Or some kind of defect in the beater, leading to an increase in current. It is worth checking the installation on a standard 125W DRL. And at the same time all your contacts. Although poor contact would rather lead to a non-start or unstable lamp burning.
3) poor throttle cooling conditions. I hang the throttle by the standard hook on the screen frame, since the screen design allows it. At the same time, the length of the wire to the lamp is reduced. But in any case, do not cover with anything and put it in an open, blown place (on a plank).
4) large ripples (frequency fluctuations) of current from a non-inverter generator. This affects the amount of throttle reactance. A similar phenomenon is possible on an inverter generator, if after the lamps come out to stable burning, you switch it to economy mode, but the power is barely enough (at 1 kW of nominal value, you will have about this, especially if there is still some small consumer. I use the system 2X125W DRL + 2X26W CFL + camp CFL up to 20 W + charging different devices and 18655 batteries powered by a 1kW Kipor, and from experience I had to abandon the economy mode for all consumers for the sake of stability).
I also recommend reducing the length of the extension cord from the generator to the screen and using a cross-section of at least 2.5 square mm in all supply wires.
Perhaps, to moderate the frequency fluctuations, installing a capacitor in the circuit can help, as on some PRA industrial DRL lamps (where it is mainly used for energy saving). But I'm not sure about that.
5) poor throttle quality initially. For example, the throttles of the manufacturer Galad, let's just say, are very different, as luck would have it. I myself use IP54 protected independent chokes made by CATZ-Kadoshkino 1I125DRL44-003UHL1. The oldest of them is 6 or 7 years old, no problems were noted, although they are regularly transported in cars under harsh conditions, off-road and with a lot of cargo.
I haven't had anything to do with beaters for a long time, instead of them, if necessary, I use DRL UV (Sylvania HSW). But I remember that they are generally capricious. When I used them, I turned them off periodically, after a maximum of 1-2 hours of continuous operation, and turned them on after cooling down (after 15-20 minutes). If you still have a normal lamp, this is not a problem. At the same time, you can work with the screen without interference.

Thanks for the answer!
1. The wire to the DRL 250 is exactly the same cross-section and only slightly shorter. But I'll try to take a thicker one.
2. Exactly everything is in order. The beater was extracted by me personally from the 125W DRL. Yes, the lamp would not start or would burn unstable. But it burns steadily and always starts.
3. The throttle just stays on the ground. Cooling is not hindered by anything.
4.Generator is good, inverter: Honda EU 10 i. There are no other consumers. Only two DRLs. Moreover, I feed them without any problems from the PATRIOT GP 1000i generator with a nominal value of 700 watts. The main thing is not to light it at the same time.

The fact that the throttles are heated is not a crime, the permissible temperature on them is up to 120C (+ another 65-75C before the accident), although usually significantly less. If the lamp confidently lights up and does not go out, and the throttle quickly fails, then the picture looks like the throttle on the 125 W lamp does not cope with compensating for the increasing current when the lamp heats up. This may be due to several reasons:
1) insufficient cross-section of a rather long wire from it to the lamp on the mast. Put a wire with a cross-section of one conductor of at least 2.5 square mm.
2) the beater can't be more powerful than 125W? It sounds silly, but it's worth checking out. I do not exclude that the beater from the DRV can also be ignited by this scheme. For example, the DRV 500 does not split works from the lamp for the DRL 400. Or some kind of defect in the beater, leading to an increase in current. It is worth checking the installation on a standard 125W DRL. And at the same time all your contacts. Although poor contact would rather lead to a non-start or unstable lamp burning.
3) poor throttle cooling conditions. I hang the throttle by the standard hook on the screen frame, since the screen design allows it. At the same time, the length of the wire to the lamp is reduced. But in any case, do not cover with anything and put it in an open, blown place (on a plank).
4) large ripples (frequency fluctuations) of current from a non-inverter generator. This affects the amount of throttle reactance. A similar phenomenon is possible on an inverter generator, if after the lamps come out to stable burning, you switch it to economy mode, but the power is barely enough (at 1 kW of nominal value, you will have about this, especially if there is still some small consumer. I use the system 2X125W DRL + 2X26W CFL + camp CFL up to 20 W + charging different devices and 18655 batteries powered by a 1kW Kipor, and from experience I had to abandon the economy mode for all consumers for the sake of stability).
I also recommend reducing the length of the extension cord from the generator to the screen and using a cross-section of at least 2.5 square mm in all supply wires.
Perhaps, to moderate the frequency fluctuations, installing a capacitor in the circuit can help, as on some PRA industrial DRL lamps (where it is mainly used for energy saving). But I'm not sure about that.
5) poor throttle quality initially. For example, the throttles of the manufacturer Galad, let's just say, are very different, as luck would have it. I myself use IP54 protected independent chokes made by CATZ-Kadoshkino 1I125DRL44-003UHL1. The oldest of them is 6 or 7 years old, no problems were noted, although they are regularly transported in cars under harsh conditions, off-road and with a lot of cargo.
I haven't had anything to do with beaters for a long time, instead of them, if necessary, I use DRL UV (Sylvania HSW). But I remember that they are generally capricious. When I used them, I turned them off periodically, after a maximum of 1-2 hours of continuous operation, and turned them on after cooling down (after 15-20 minutes). If you still have a normal lamp, this is not a problem. At the same time, you can work with the screen without interference.

I have a stupid newbie question - how is it technically better to shoot butterflies from the screen? With flying, everything is clear - with a net, hook it and take it out. How about from the screen? With your fingers, tweezers? Or just cover it with a stain? does this not bother the" neighbors"? And most of the nocturnal ones have a gentle edge, they will beat each other in the stain - a lot of stains at once? or directly from the screen to the needle?

Well, not with fingers or tweezers for the wings exactly. I caught soft-furred butterflies (mostly scoops, it's easier with other families) with a loaded stain. But you need to have two of them - one individual for catching and mating, the other-collective for mating. And IMHO it is better if the first will be with chloroform, and the second-with ethyl acetate.

Some of them, according to them, manage to prick with ammonia without knocking down the scales, but these are some superhumans

zooropa-depends on the seed. Some in the stain. Some who are quite infantile can be immediately stabbed. Large ones, sometimes, and tweezers first.
On the Polish forum shared the method of instant freezing with liquefied gas. I once made a repost in this topic with a translation into Russian.

Homemade stain. At the bottom - cosmetic cotton pads, which are soaked with ethylacetam. On the lid is a circle made of isolon (lining for entomological boxes), in which you can stick pins with already impaled butterflies for mating.
In the Moscow region, I have enough two such stains to take everything I need from the screen. I attached a short loop to each of them to hang it on my arm. He gathered butterflies in one, let go, and immediately grabbed the other.

I have a stupid newbie question - how is it technically better to shoot butterflies from the screen? With flying, everything is clear - with a net, hook it and take it out. How about from the screen? With your fingers, tweezers? Or just cover it with a stain? does this not bother the" neighbors"? And most of the nocturnal ones have a gentle edge, they will beat each other in the stain - a lot of stains at once? or directly from the screen to the needle?

This post was edited by PhilGri - 07.07.2020 21: 44

Two iron crosses with bolts or screws reminded me of the inscription in minibuses "a place for hitting the head" And under ethyl acetate there will be more than one of these blows.

1) I read in this topic that the split DRL shines exceptionally bright. My unintentional mallet shone with a dull, dead light. I caught it 4 times - and it was very sad, very few people visited my screen. And a few days ago, at 2 o'clock in the morning, in the fog, I was pulling someone interesting out of the net, and behind my back the lamp flashed with a blinding bright light. Then it went out again. And the throttle on the contrary-caught fire :/ I tried to touch it once before and it burned my finger.



2) I bought a galad protected throttle and a philips lamp to replace it. After two hours of operation, the hand keeps its temperature. It's a crazy day, all flickering in the air and near the ground, butterflies themselves climbing into the net propped up against the wall. Caught with this setup for two nights, the second began to fly bedstraw hawk moth! When I saw him for the first time in a panic, I started randomly waving the net, caught him, pricked him with ammonia and almost started dancing with joy! Then came more and more, flying in pairs. I caught 5 pieces in total, then photographed them, then took pictures with them, then just waved them off



3) I have a screen made of a piece of vapor protection, most of the scoops do not sit down, I do not stop flapping my wings crawl on it and fly up to the lamp or down to hide somewhere. I think it's too slippery, I'll change it to a cloth. I also stretch the screen a meter away from the wall of the house, next to a table, buckets of all sorts, boards-many of them fly straight there and hide. I think we need to make a frame and put the screen in an open place..

4) I read in this topic how someone pricked a sitting butterfly. I decided to try to kill metalloid gamma, sitting peacefully on the wall, and I did it! He repeated this maneuver twice, stabbing her sideways in the chest area, grabbing a drop of ammonia hanging from a needle. Before that, I got my hands on large butterflies, then smaller ones. Even pyadenits tried to prick :D In general, now I kill much less often through staining, mainly through prick

 
2) Caught with this setup for two nights, the second began to fly bedstraw hawk moth! When I saw him for the first time in a panic, I started randomly waving the net, caught him, pricked him with ammonia and almost started dancing with joy! Then came more and more, flying in pairs. I caught 5 pieces in total, then photographed them, then took pictures with them, then just waved them off

Andrey, do you have a picture of this hawk moth from above? Something, a faint white streak on the pronotum, suggests a Hawk Moth (Hyles chuvilini). If so ,then it's not a sin to start dancing the truth.

1. Bedstraw hawk moth (Hyles galli)


2. Chuvilina's hawk moth (Hyles chuvilini)

1) I read in this topic that the split DRL shines exceptionally bright. My unintentional mallet shone with a dull, dead light. I caught it 4 times - and it was very sad, very few people visited my screen.

A burnt-out DRL shines dimly purple. It's amazing that someone flew in.
It is always better to catch in a stain or net, and then prick. Your version sometimes leads to disastrous results and usually on a unique instance.

Andrey, do you have a picture of this hawk moth from above? Something, a faint white streak on the pronotum, suggests a Hawk Moth (Hyles chuvilini). If so ,then it's not a sin to start dancing the truth.

Michael, thank you for the tip! There is a photo, I do not know what this stroke is, perhaps something stuck on the mustache, bedstraw. But now I will invite everyone to a closer acquaintance!

By the way, do the bears arrive closer to the morning? I have two specimens,
Arctia flavia (Yellowish Bear) found in a plastic bucket under a yellow lid and Arctia saja (Kaya Bear) stuck to something sticky, both found by chance during the day, not seen at night.

A burnt-out DRL shines dimly purple. It's amazing that someone flew in.
It is always better to catch in a stain or net, and then prick. Your version sometimes leads to disastrous results, and usually on a unique instance.

I began to suspect this, when even in good weather few people showed up, I pricked not just like that, but covered it with a net so that there was nowhere to run. It was an experiment-whether it works or not, in general, I first catch with a net and then prick in it.

This post was edited by zooropa - 03.08.2020 19: 02

Pictures:

IMG_20200802_161038.jpg — (288.93к)


IMG_20200731_012519.jpg — (118.32к)

I amuse people with my troubles...

How I did LepiLED
Under the impression of LepiLED (gunnarbrehm.de/en/contact.html However, now the page in English is not available there) I decided to do something similar (a toad strangled me to pay 400 euros, and the opportunity to get a relatively light and compact light source for night filming on trips seemed very interesting), since I found the article Gunnar Brehm "A" on researchgate new LED lamp for the collection of nocturnal Lepidoptera and a spectral comparison of light-trapping lamps " (researchgate.net/publication/ 316439794_A_new_LED_lamp_for_the_collection_of_nocturnal_Lepidoptera_and_a_spectral_comparison_of_li
ght-trapping_lamps) with a description of the design of the first version of the lamp and the results of its tests in Europe and North America.
I decided to start from the design of the second version of the lamp, which is made on the basis of marine navigation lamps (k2wlights.de/en/Navigationslichter.html). However, it was not possible to make the same compact case due to various limitations that arise during the design of the lamp, mainly related to the dimensions of the available electronic components.
ps. Now, when I looked at the links, it turned out that the images of lamps that I have gunnarbrehm.de, what do you have k2wlights.de they have changed since the beginning of the year. Those lamps, photos of which I used when developing drawings of the case, were with a more bulky radiator.

Electronic components
The article says that 8 three-watt LEDs were used for the first version of the lamp: 4 UV (SSC Viosys UV CUN66A1B, 365 nm), 2 blue (Cree XP-E2 Royal Blue, 450 nm), 1 green (Cree XP-E2 Green) and 1 cool white (Cree XP -L V6 Cool White). For the second version, more expensive Nichia diodes are used, but I decided to make do with the kit for the first version with a small modification. Diodes ordered on the site led-tech.de the most expensive, as expected, were UV diodes. I chose the option on a star-type board with a diameter of 20 mm, so it is more convenient to fix the diodes on the radiator case. After some reflection, I decided to replace 1 UV diode with a blue one, so that when working with the screen I would not shine ultraviolet light into my eye, so I ordered 3 UV diodes, 3 blue, 1 green and 1 white.
It was not possible to find the driver (current source for diodes) listed in the article on sale - and this turned out to be the main reason for the increase in the size of the case: the compartment with electronic stuffing had to be moved to the lower part of the lamp, outside the glass, and made it high enough. Don't repeat my mistake in choosing a driver: as a person who is far from electronics, I drew information about the power supply and connection of diodes on the Internet, but in articles about choosing a driver I did not find a single mention that drivers are step-down (input voltage is higher than output), boost (input voltage is lower than output) and boost-down (they are guided by the parameters of the power source and loads and do everything themselves). Therefore, the first driver (selected for the parameters of the input (5 V) and output voltage (26 V), the set current through the diode circuit (350 mA) and the dimensions to fit the electronic stuffing inside the glass case) chose a step-down, which did not suit due to the choice of a powerbank as a power source.
So I had to order another driver of the desired type on the site ledsupply.com (model boostpuck 04015-d-e-350, ledsupply.com/led-drivers/boostpuck-dc-boost-led-driver).

Power supply
The Xiaomi mi powerbank 3 pro powerbank (20 Ah capacity) was chosen as a mobile power source as a fairly capacious and inexpensive option.

The
base around which the lamp body was designed was a borosilicate glass cylinder. I started from the dimensions of such a cylinder, indicated on the site gunnarbrehm.de, i.e. 60 mm diameter, 60 mm height, 3 mm wall thickness. For a long time I was looking for a place to get such a cylinder (or a plexiglass one, as in the first version of the lamp), because we had the maximum that you could buy - a three-meter pipe without cutting and for a sad money. In the end, I found an option on Aliexpress - 5 cylinders 60x60x2. 8 mm (aliexpress.ru/item/32952596895.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.196d6269Hlh1pT).
Next, the question arose with the radiator and the base for installing diodes. The article for the lamp of the first version used a tricky square profile with internal ribs Fischer Elektronik LAM 31005, but I did not find it for reasonable money, so I decided to start from the design of the second version of the lamp. From what I understood while studying her photos , the diodes are mounted on a square cross-section rod made of aluminum alloy 30x30 mm, which is inserted (or is part of) the upper cover and the continuation of which (which) is actually a passive radiator in the form of a stack of 4 (in cheaper models - 2) rather thick ribs with a diameter of about 60 mm.
At first, I thought to make the whole structure as simple as possible from the point of view of manufacturing, i.e. the radiator, the upper cover, the base for installing diodes, the lower cover, the electronics compartment and its cover are separate parts, and the radiator itself is much larger in diameter than the original (100 mm vs. 60), because I was confused the temperature given for the radiator of the original lamp is up to 55 degrees with an ambient temperature of 22 degrees, which seemed too much.
I did not find a normal method for calculating the area of a passive radiator, and the empirical dependences gave quite a large spread over the required area, but in general, assuming that an area of 50 sq. cm is needed to dissipate 1 W of heat, and based on the total power dissipation of 12 W diodes (with a margin of 15 W), I estimated that the diameter of the radiator 70 mm is enough for the eyes (the total area turned out to be about 1000 sq. cm).
Also, after some thought, I decided to minimize the number of connections from the base for installing diodes to the radiator itself, and redid the upper part of the case into a single part of a rather complex shape.






I found a turner on the site profi.ru, the body parts were turned out of aluminum alloy D16T on a CNC machine, if anyone needs it, the master promised to save the program for the machine, so it will be possible to repeat it.
On the upper surface of the radiator, a hole is drilled with a M8*1.25 thread for screwing in the screw ring (to hang the lamp by something).




I ordered a turner just in case a compartment for electronics in two versions, but the height of the first one, i.e. 30 mm, was enough. Specification of the thread parameters and wall thickness on the aluminum cylinder (electronics compartment housing) was made already in the course of work, I do not know the exact parameters.

Assembly
Diodes on boards of the "star" type glued on a heat-resistant sealant-gasket shaper with copper DoneDeal 6729 (6731 is also suitable, sold in auto stores) - something in between thermal paste and hot glue - two pieces per face: in the upper row 3 UV and blue diodes, in the lower row - 2 blue, green and white, with white on the same side as UV, and blue and green on the opposite side (it is assumed that white and UV shine on the screen).
The diodes are connected by soldering in series, as connecting wires I used a bundle of wires purchased from chipdip with "papa"-"mama" connectors for mounting on arduino boards (chipdip.ru/product/bbj-40pin-mf-20cm) (connectors cut off). I left two wires from the beginning and end of the diode circuit with " mom " connectors for connecting them to the driver. I closed two control pins on the driver with "mom" connectors without wires, they are not needed in this case.



In the driver datasheet, for the case of long wires from the current source, it is recommended to install a 35 V, 220 UF capacitor between the supply wires (chipdip.ru/product0/9000313083); the thickness of the legs of the capacitor turned out to be suitable for fixing wires from arduino in the "mother" connector, so I used them (in case of replacing the capacitor).
Since the powerbank is the power source, I considered it reasonable to use the usb cable as the source of the connector and connecting wires to the driver. However, after reading that the powerbank Xiaomi mi powerbank 3 pro can not only be charged from the usb-c connector, but also charge through it, I missed the cable and put usb-a " mom " at the entrance to the lamp. So the lamp did not work (I had to buy a usb - a cord " dad " - " dad " (chipdip.ru/product/pl1394) and use the appropriate connector on the powerbank).
At the usb-a "dad"-"mom" cable (found in the desk drawer), I cut the connector from the "dad" side, put the "mom" connectors on the red (+) and black (-) wires (such as chipdip.ru/product/bls-1, I didn't buy them on purpose, I cut them off from the arduino cable); also to wires soldered two wires with connectors " mom " to connect the capacitor.
In the lower cover of the electronics compartment, I installed a metal hermetic lead for wires in the hole (chipdip.ru/product/pg-m-9), through which I passed a cut of the usb cable with a connector for powerbank connection.
Since I originally planned to put a switch to turn off the UV diodes, I left 2 holes in the upper cover of the electronics compartment to separate the wires from the upper (UV) and lower (rest) groups of diodes, but then I decided not to complicate the design and assembled the diodes in one circuit. Accordingly, the second wire from the diode circuit had to be wrapped 180 degrees around the base to install the diodes. In a good way, it was necessary to make a wider hole in the upper cover of the electronics compartment (6 mm instead of 4), but on one side. Also, now I would not cut the thread in the hole of this cover - when assembling it, it does not always fit exactly on the base for the diodes.

Results
I finally assembled the lamp by the end of August, but for various reasons, I haven't been able to check it in the field yet. According to the results of turning on the lamp for 1 and 1.5 hours on the balcony, it turned out that the radiator does not heat up to the temperature felt by touch during this time, i.e. the radiator could be made more compact in diameter and with fewer ribs. I would also drill 4 full-height discharge holes in the base for installing the diodes to make the weight of the entire structure less.




At the first switch-on, no one came to the light (overcast, rather strong wind, temperature about 8 degrees, 15th floor, as a screen - a sheet hanging on the balcony, one section of the window is open).
During the second switch-on on September 23 (clear sky with a slight cloud cover, temperature about 12 degrees, almost calm, no screen, 15th floor, one section of the window is open, the balcony overlooks the houses, road and ponds below), Xestia c-nigrum flew to the lamp, 6 large red riders, 5 golden eyes, several bedbugs (Miridae), several dozen bellbirds of different species, cicadas, aphids.
The powerbank charge indicator still shows 4 dots after 2.5 hours of lamp operation (i.e. it has not dropped below 75 %).
I agree that the output for the money and effort spent is frankly weak , we need to check in normal time and normal conditions, but I hope this will happen next season...

Total
lamp dimensions: diameter 70 mm, height 150 mm
Lamp weight 715 g
Weight of complete assembly (lamp, wire, suspension ring, powerbank) 1155 g

Price, rub. - 19500 (excluding delivery of diodes and drivers from the USA and Germany, this will add about 5000),
including:
Powerbank 2600
diodes: 4300 (UV) + 1600 (blue) + 300 (green) + 230 (white)
driver 1400
glass cylinders (5 pieces) 1500
case manufacturing 9000
wires and other small things:
dondeal 250
cable hermovod 230
cable with connectors male-female 450
capacitor 35 V 220 UF 18
usb - a cable male-to-male 1.5 m 210

This post was edited by NakaRB - 24.09.2020 23: 05

Wow!!!
The price of the lamp (without taking into account the power source, but with "delivery from the USA and Germany") 240 euros came out, a little cheaper than the original, but how much work)
There are UV diodes 4-5dollar 3W, they shine about 20% worse than the "firm" ones, their efficiency is slightly lower, and the price is twice as low, and they are sold anywhere.
And most importantly, this is the inclusion in series of a variety of diodes with different characteristics "and what, so it was possible" (c)
There is no sense from these prices and high efficiency, if the diodes are not in the modes.
Yes, and IMHO poverbank would not have pulled 24W if all the diodes were in the modes, and so, the lamp came out 9watt (26*0.350), who will see such power from the balcony) DRL 125 and that is not enough..

Depends on where and when. I now have enough light 60 W bulbs Ilyich through the window for a fucking variety of dustpans on the walls of the kitchen. Until mid-July, I still tried to take a picture of each type, but then so many of them were flooded with daily updates that I began to feed them without any proceedings. But I'm pretty sure that some faunal discoveries could have been made on that huge amount of material, but I don't get any credit for it. For example, the same ni-that yante ni-that yantina in any case is indicated as not very ordinary vna beast, and to me they flew into the window of 50 pieces exactly in three months. And how many kcal... But the right butterfly faunist, as a true artist, must suffer: night, street, lantern, pharmacy-op, and there is no human field, generator, DRL. But preferably more than once a month

This post was edited by ENO-09/25/2020 12: 27

Wow!!!
The price of the lamp (without taking into account the power source, but with "delivery from the USA and Germany") 240 euros came out, a little cheaper than the original, but how much work)

Well, I was interested in trying to build something like this myself. Moreover, during self-isolation, it was necessary to distract yourself from sad thoughts

Just diodes are all absolutely different, they have different activation voltage and resp. current-voltage characteristics.
It is naive to assume that this power of 9W is evenly distributed over all 8 diodes, in reality some (those with low voltage) oil almost to full, and the rest, especially UV, work at 10% of power.

And again, I repeat - what is the use of these ultra-expensive UV diodes, if they are just because they are expensive because they have good efficiency in their nominal value, and here they probably do not work at all, measure the voltage on them with a tester)

And in general, all this is simply solved, it is all powered from one large 3.7 V battery, and the diodes are entered into the mode by resistors, the losses will of course be higher, but the full power on the diodes and no drivers from Germany, for the money that is paid for delivery, you can buy two banks as a link to 3.7 V 37Ah and shine a 25W flashlight for 7 hours in a row and don't care about the loss
https://elob.com.ua/p268656503-litij-ionnyj...kumulyator.html

And about the heating and durability - you have a radiator like on a pot from a moped, this will quite cope with 25W, if of course the diodes are not glued but screwed as it should be on screws and thermal paste, again, why such a grandiose radiator, for 9W the lid from a tin can is enough

Just diodes are all absolutely different, they have different activation voltage and resp. current-voltage characteristics.
It is naive to assume that this power of 9W is evenly distributed over all 8 diodes, in reality some (those with low voltage) oil almost to full, and the rest, especially UV, work at 10% of power.

And again, I repeat - what is the use of these ultra-expensive UV diodes, if they are just because they are expensive because they have good efficiency in their nominal value, and here they probably do not work at all, measure the voltage on them with a tester)

And in general, all this is simply solved, it is all powered from one large 3.7 V battery, and the diodes are entered into the mode by resistors, the losses will of course be higher, but the full power on the diodes and no drivers from Germany, for the money that is paid for delivery, you can buy two banks as a link to 3.7 V 37Ah and shine a 25W flashlight for 7 hours in a row and don't care about the loss
https://elob.com.ua/p268656503-litij-ionnyj...kumulyator.html

Well, I don't know, everywhere I read about the design of LED lamps, the main current was indicated, not voltage... With the voltage there, everything is fine, from 2.9 (white) to 3.6 (UV) V, everything is as it should be according to the specification.

And about the heating and durability - you have a radiator like on a pot from a moped, this will quite cope with 25W, if of course the diodes are not glued but screwed as it should be on screws and thermal paste, again, why such a grandiose radiator, for 9W there is enough and a lid from a tin can

Here I agree, I'm a moron. But I already wrote that I was guided by this image of the lamp

for which the radiator heating was specified to 55 degrees, which somewhat strained me, so I went a little too far ... Well, but there is a margin in case the current rises to the upper limit of the nominal value...

  
This energy is used for peaceful purposes - for example, to carve a helicoid on projection lenses. It's really sad there without a turner.

If you have a drawing or original part - any whim for your money

Plus 5 kopecks to all doubts about the design:
1. when the LEDs are turned on sequentially, if one burns out, then none will shine;
2. the type of glass is not mentioned. If it's not quartz glass, then almost all UV light will be cut off.

mikee, I don't agree:

1. If these are megafirm diodes, then with the expected operating mode, at least one will burn out by the very old age of the designcore.
2. UV-A normally passes through ordinary glass.

Plus 5 kopecks to all doubts about the design:
1. when the LEDs are turned on sequentially, if one burns out, then none will shine;

It is difficult to argue here, but in order for the diode not to burn out, it just needs to be properly fed and well cooled

mikee, I don't agree:

1. If these are megafirm diodes, then with the expected operating mode, at least one will burn out by the very old age of the designcore.

The probability of failure increases exponentially relative to the number of elements in the serial circuit. And the average life time, usually declared by the manufacturer, is the average temperature in the hospital. Personally, I would not want to go to the Far East or to the mountains of Kyrgyzstan and suddenly be left without a fishing device and the ability to quickly repair or replace it. Namely, for long-distance trips, such miniature options are especially relevant.

2. UV-A normally passes through ordinary glass.

I agree, but even 10% for small light fluxes is significant:


But the author mentioned a type of glass - borosilicate. The spectral characteristic is a bandpass filter with a short wavelength cutoff just in the region of 365 nm that we are interested in.

This post was edited by mikee - 27.09.2020 22: 15

I also made myself a 12 V LED UV lamp. But only for use in the event of a sudden generator failure. I tried to catch it a couple of times, but it doesn't fly well. Maybe somewhere. in the tropics and it would be nice
10W LEDs from Aliexpress, I don't know how "UV"they are. The entire device cost a little less than 5 thousand rubles.

This post was edited by kovyl - 28.09.2020 13: 17

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The presence of UV in the spectrum is easily checked by the fluorescence of all sorts of special paints, which are very common. In the event of the absence of these at home, as well as scorpions, here is a loyfhak: human gums should fluoresce scarlet

So I had to order another driver of the desired type on the site ledsupply.com (model boostpuck 04015-d-e-350, ledsupply.com/led-drivers/boostpuck-dc-boost-led-driver).

Power supply
The Xiaomi mi powerbank 3 pro powerbank (20 Ah capacity) was chosen as a mobile power source as a fairly capacious and inexpensive option.

It is more efficient to take an accumulator for aircraft models/quadrics with an xt60 connector and a meanwell driver of some kind suitable. Efficiency will be much better than with paverbank.

It is more efficient to take an accumulator for aircraft models/quadrics with an xt60 connector and a meanwell driver of some kind suitable. Efficiency will be better in any case than with paverbank.

Well, I don't know about efficiency, but I couldn't find a model aircraft battery for at least 15 Ah (we believe that 20 Ah in the Xiaomi powerbank is "Chinese") for sane money... Moreover, poverbank can also be useful for its direct function.

Well, I don't know about efficiency, but I couldn't find a model aircraft battery for at least 15 Ah (we believe that 20 Ah in the Xiaomi powerbank is "Chinese") for sane money... Moreover, poverbank can also be useful for its direct function.

https://aliexpress.ru/item/32963563253.html

Xiaomi claims 74 Wh accumulators (2000 mAh*3.7 V), but 5 V is already 12600 mAh (63 Wh), i.e. the efficiency is already 0.85

There are 6 18650 cans of ~ 3300 mAh inside, i.e. the analog is 6s*3300 mAh

Somehow it's not Comme il faut just to warm the air, although you can't save money right at times...

This post was edited by Mogwaika - 10/27/2020 17: 05

Colleagues, how glad I am to see your exercises with electricity, we managed to get along like this, I remember even once a bear from the Primorskaya taiga came out to look at it, and the tailed ones flew so that in the neighboring garden these handsome hawkmoth birds trampled all the potatoes and tomatoes and by the way they were allowed to go with it on all flights to all airports. And its first use, for me, took place in Gosmalyany in 1986, when Sasha Danchenko took it with him and we were afraid for the wiring in the school and the outlet, but everything went well ... otherwise there would have been nowhere to sleep

This post was edited by chuvilin - 27.10.2020 19: 16

Pictures:

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Colleagues, how glad I am to see your exercises with electricity, we managed to do this, I remember even once a bear from the Primorskaya taiga came out to look at it, and the tailed ones flew so that in the neighboring garden these handsome hawk moth trampled all the potatoes and tomatoes and by the way they were allowed to go with it on all flights to all airports

This one is harder to get from the battery to work.

This one is harder to get from the battery to work.

Yes, not easy

Colleagues, how glad I am to see your exercises with electricity, we managed to get along like this, I remember even once a bear from the Primorskaya taiga came out to look at it, and the tailed ones flew so that in the neighboring garden these handsome hawkmoth birds trampled all the potatoes and tomatoes and by the way they were allowed to go with it on all flights to all airports. And its first use, for me, took place in Gosmalyany in 1986, when Sasha Danchenko took it with him and we were afraid for the wiring in the school and the outlet, but everything went well ... otherwise there would have been nowhere to sleep

This is an old, good household quartz grinder, if I'm not mistaken?! Well, or part of it.

Colleagues, I am so glad to see your exercises with electricity, we were able to do this,

Yes, Alexander, you didn't take care of yourself at all then! This is a hard ultraviolet light, and not all sorts of glasses will help with this.. It looks terrifying, and Pearl probably looks like a joke.

Accidentally stumbled upon such an ad. I don't need it, especially at this price, but maybe someone will be interested to know that there is such a know-how alternative to black light, it's a pity that it is so low-power.