Features of light catching

Never caught the light, but after reading a few pages of the forum, I decided to try it. I bought a DRL 250 lamp, a throttle to it, a wire, a screen made of white fabric. The DRL also emits an ultraviolet spector (the main radiation is cut off by the internal coating of the lamp). The instructions for the lamp say that the safe distance from the lamp is 4 m. In this regard, I have an amateur question. How is the safe collection of incoming insects carried out? Go to the screen in safety glasses, turn off the lamp when approaching the screen and turn on the forehead foparik, or...? How do you do this?

Interestingly, if phosphor and glass absorb almost all ultraviolet light, then why even protect against it when working with non-gold DRL?

4 meters, this is the technical requirements for the installation of these lamps. If the bulb of the lamp is intact:, then you need to take into account that it is very hot and hang it so that you do not accidentally attach it; and try not to look, protective glasses are welcome, but this is like a mask for coronavirus.
With more than 30 years of experience working with DRL, I once found myself under a lamp with a cracked bulb. They shone on the estate of the reserve, with limits on energy consumption, so they shone one lamp for two, the lamp was not mine. After that, they both wore black glasses for a week and the skin peeled off their faces.

Interestingly, if phosphor and glass absorb almost all ultraviolet light, then why even protect against it when working with non-gold DRL?

Probably in case of a crack in the flask. The lamp continues to check, and the UV climbs through the crack.

Probably in case of a crack in the flask. The lamp continues to check, and the UV climbs through the crack.

Here's how, I see.

Somewhere before I read that to work with pricked DRL, you need to use sunscreen and safety glasses. It certainly sounds promising...
Yes, I once saw UV protection glasses in a foreign entomological equipment store. I wonder if they even help?

Never when there was no desire to work with pricked DRL, too hard UV, a lot of safety requirements, any failure to comply with serious damage to health, it's like working with venomous snakes.
The most common trouble when fishing on any light source is getting insects in the ears, then problems with extraction, sometimes it comes to ENT rooms. Protection - either earplugs, or a banal piece of cotton wool in the ear, cheap and reliable.

Djon Thanks for the clarification! As I understand it, you need to stand at some distance from the lamp. it is advisable to wear safety glasses made of glass. When collecting insects, approach the screen with the lamp on, quickly collect them in the stain, and also quickly leave. Did I get it right?

  Djon Thanks for the clarification! As I understand it, you need to stand at some distance from the lamp. it is advisable to wear safety glasses made of glass. When collecting insects, approach the screen with the lamp on, quickly collect them in the stain, and also quickly leave. Did I get it right?

All my life I worked quietly under DRL and even more DRV (it can not have cracks in the flask, the tungsten spiral will immediately burn out). Glasses put on after 40, began to appear farsightedness (binocular more sad eyes). Glasses are not superfluous, they also protect you from midges, but not mandatory equipment. A baseball cap with a large visor, so that the lamp does not dazzle with bright light. And good fishing.

Djon, thank you. I'll probably try it tomorrow or the day after.

The instructions for the lamp say that the safe distance from the lamp is 4 m. In this regard, I have an amateur question. How is the safe collection of incoming insects carried out? Go to the screen in safety glasses, turn off the lamp when approaching the screen and turn on the forehead foparik, or...? How do you do this?

For the first years, when using the DRL 250, I wore sunglasses with ultra-violet protection with a slight darkening. It wasn't very comfortable. Now I wear sports glasses with yellow lenses. They are much more convenient. Again, you need them to be UV protected. I personally find it difficult to work without glasses during the active summer of butterflies. Ask around at sports stores. In St. Petersburg, this good should be enough.

Any sunglasses, and even simple ones, also absorb a fair amount of UV. Now they actively advertise polarized glasses for drivers-I bought them on Alik for 1.20 euros (alas, there are no such prices there anymore!), I think they will fit quite well.
And as for insects in my ears-probably a lot depends on the ears, I've never had such problems, although what only did not sit on my head (once even a bear came). Well, yes, probably earplugs are very much in the subject, although there are times when you hear the prey, but do not see it.

Roman1963, yes I was thinking about eye protection. Unfortunately, the glasses I wear are not glass, but plastic, and it does not protect against UV light. So I'm thinking of using a mask for scuba diving. There are quite thick windows, plus-the face will be almost completely covered.
Thanks for the tip

If the lamp is not broken, and new, then no protective measures are needed. Over time, the phosphor disappears, it is immediately visible on the lamp, the white color sometimes becomes transparent, UV passes more, however, because the outer bulb is glass, then eye protection is not needed. However, I had a case with one Ukrainian lamp, when I burned my eyes with a non-gold lamp. The lamp, by the way, is excellent, insects perli only on the way and you do not need to prick. It's a pity I didn't know about this beforehand, then I wouldn't have burned my eyes. But during the 30-year experience of almost daily fishing from April to November, this was only once. Russian DRL lamps work the worst, so it is better to use phillips or osram.
When fishing for a split lamp, I put a bandana on my head in such a way that only my eyes, on which I have glasses, remain open. If there is no bandana, then a hat or cap and sunscreen 70 and above on all exposed areas of the head and neck, most of all on the nose, it burns first of all Glass glasses are mandatory. It is better to hang the lamp at a height of 4-5 meters, on the screen itself for illumination energy-saving devices with a power of 50 watts work perfectly.

Hello everybody! I have a question for the owners of petal screens. This screen is essentially a narrow tent. The upper arc is bent at a certain angle there, isn't it? Did someone make such a screen themselves? Where did the arcs come from? And then on OLX some fiberglass, as I look.

Hello everybody! I have a question for the owners of petal screens. This screen is essentially a narrow tent. The upper arc is bent at a certain angle there, isn't it? Did someone make such a screen themselves? Where did the arcs come from? And then on OLX some fiberglass, as I look.

I made the screen myself, I took the arcs from a tent bought in Galmart for 999r, it was enough for the season. Then I took the arcs from the tent that my friend gave me because it was only suitable for spare parts, and the arcs were just intact.

Hello everybody! I have a question for the owners of petal screens. This screen is essentially a narrow tent. The upper arc is bent at a certain angle there, isn't it? Did someone make such a screen themselves? Where did the arcs come from? And then on OLX some fiberglass, as I look.

If the question is only in arcs, then whole arcs and individual sections are sold in stores selling tourist equipment, specifically tents and accessories for them. There are quite a few types of arc sections. The main difference is plastic or duralumin, the second is much more expensive. Each has several diameters and wall thicknesses. There is an elastic band inside these tubes, which also has its own specifics. In tourist shops it is cool, but prices are exorbitant, you can't take it in fabrics, there are elastic bands for underpants, skirts, dresses. They fall into disrepair very quickly. The best elastic band in hardware stores. Price and quality are out of competition. If you do it yourself, then there is a very subtle moment with plugs at the ends very difficult to find on sale. It's easier to buy a dead tent from someone with intact, unrepaired arcs. It will be cheaper than buying new arcs. But not very old, arcs over time (plastic) become unusable, lose the quality of elasticity, and begin to delaminate. Then you can change individual sections. Factory traps of this type are quite high and there are large-diameter duralumin arcs, which are thinner in tents. The length of the tent arcs is somewhat less than in such traps. But by reducing the area of the bottom of the makeshift trap, the height increases.

I made the screen myself, I took the arcs from a tent bought in Galmart for 999r, it was enough for the season. Then I took the arcs from the tent that my friend gave me because it was only suitable for spare parts, and the arcs were just intact.

If the question is only in arcs, then whole arcs and individual sections are sold in stores selling tourist equipment, specifically tents and accessories for them. There are quite a few types of arc sections. The main difference is plastic or duralumin, the second is much more expensive. Each has several diameters and wall thicknesses. There is an elastic band inside these tubes, which also has its own specifics. In tourist shops it is cool, but prices are exorbitant, you can't take it in fabrics, there are elastic bands for underpants, skirts, dresses. They fall into disrepair very quickly. The best elastic band in hardware stores. Price and quality are out of competition. If you do it yourself, then there is a very subtle moment with plugs at the ends very difficult to find on sale. It's easier to buy a dead tent from someone with intact, unrepaired arcs. It will be cheaper than buying new arcs. But not very old, arcs over time (plastic) become unusable, lose the quality of elasticity, and begin to delaminate. Then you can change individual sections. Factory traps of this type are quite high and there are large-diameter duralumin arcs, which are thinner in tents. The length of the tent arcs is somewhat less than in such traps. But by reducing the area of the bottom of the makeshift trap, the height increases.

Thanks! Perhaps, now I am more concerned with the question that since the bend of the upper section is larger compared to a regular tent, which is not high, but wide, is it necessary to bend it additionally? Will it break? Yes, I want duralumin arches.

Here at the screen that is on naturaliste.ru for sale, one section is curved:
http://naturaliste.ru/mi

This post was edited by Wave Storm - 05/11/2020 10: 55

Thanks! Perhaps, now I am more concerned with the question that since the bend of the upper section is larger compared to a regular tent, which is not high, but wide, is it necessary to bend it additionally? Will it break? Yes, I want duralumin arches.

Here at the screen that is on naturaliste.ru for sale, one section is curved:
http://naturaliste.ru/mi

Arcs need to be assembled from separate sections. The higher the screen, the more sections it should have (so it will be wider). If the top point of the arc is about 170 cm high (with a screen width of about 150 cm), then the arc should be about 390 cm long. Based on this, you need to choose the number of sections (they can be different in length).

It is better to take segments up to 40 cm, since if you plan to fly with it by plane, it will be problematic to take it in hand luggage, only in luggage. But this is so, observation.

I looked at the naturalist, indeed the central arc is curved. This is probably justified in mass production. There really thick arcs and straight lines will not withstand such deformation. But when making a single trap, make the bottom slightly larger, this will increase the consumption of fabric on the screen and bottom and lengthen the arcs. But all sections of the arcs will be the same, buy a couple more spare ones and you will have eternal arcs. By the way, they are also available on Ali, cheaper, I won't say anything about the quality.

The length of individual arcs is usually one for each tube diameter and a large 60-70 cm. That would be possible to replace the arc section in any tent. Therefore, the finished arc will be cheaper than making up sections, besides the elastic band is inserted and the end caps, which I did not find on the Internet.

The length of individual arcs is usually one for each tube diameter and a large 60-70 cm. That would be possible to replace the arc section in any tent. Therefore, the finished arc will be cheaper than making up sections, besides the elastic band is inserted and the end caps, which I did not find on the Internet.

It cannot be that the sections of tent arches are the same length for all tent structures. I personally have three sets of arcs with different segment sizes, unfortunately the photo is not attached. Plugs in general are also not a problem, even nuts are suitable for our purposes, pick up with a large diameter, so that it does not slip into the arc, and tie an elastic band to it.

It cannot be that the sections of tent arches are the same length for all tent structures. I personally have three sets of arcs with different segment sizes,

Everything is correct, that's why the sections of one large length are sold, and for each tent the extra ones are cut off. Universal ones. It's plastic. I only have duralumin in arcs, it hasn't broken yet, so I didn't buy sections.

Plugs in general are also not a problem, even nuts are suitable for our purposes, pick up with a large diameter, so that it does not slip into the arc, and tie an elastic band to it.

For 100 bucks arcs and a nut on the end, it's somehow not camilfo.

For 100 bucks arcs and a nut on the end, it's somehow not camilfo.

Well, now for 100 bucks you can take two tents

The question is about duralumin arches, they are so average for a tent standing, maybe cheaper in Russia.
Here is found on Ali on 10 bucks Doug. If you take something longer, one section is immediately removed for stock.

#Aliexpress 244.52 UAH 25%OFF/8,5 / 11 mm Alloy tent for Camping, 1 pc., Alloy tent, 3,6 m/4 m/4,4 m, Tent accessories
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BT9bKy

The question is about duralumin arches, they are so average for a tent standing, maybe cheaper in Russia.
Here is found on Ali on 10 bucks Doug. If you take something longer, one section is immediately removed for stock.

#Aliexpress 244.52 UAH 25%OFF/8,5 / 11 mm Alloy tent for Camping, 1 pc., Alloy tent, 3,6 m/4 m/4,4 m, Tent accessories
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BT9bKy

This is for 1-2 local tents, it is better to take for 3-4 local
I took these (set of 2 arcs): https://aliexpress.ru/item/32797577394.html

sdi, finally comparative testing data, not the religious mantras of the Holy Spirit's witnesses sect, thank you. They don't really match up with mine, but that's not normal. In nature, there is a complex set of factors, you can not take everything into account, but they affect. Although one can still be taken into account: DRL you have 250W, and the searchlight, as I understand it, is 100W.

DRL is a good lamp (unlike DRV), but it has a lot of nuances that make it difficult to use, which the LED spotlight does not have.

I've been catching the light for years. I know a lot of light sources in practice, both I myself was a luminary, and I observed them from my colleagues. I will focus on DRL and DRV, since these are the most commonly used light sources. In principle, this is the same light source, with certain design differences. On the Internet, everything about them is described in detail, you can Google it. I'm talking about the practice of fishing. I used DRL 70, 125, 250, 400, and DRV 160 and 250 (I got the first one in the early 80's). These lamps have the same type of flasks, differing only in size, in total, these lamps have 4 sizes. The difference in the luminous intensity of the DRV is 30-50% less (not twice) at the same power. But you need to remember that the resource of the DRV is an order of magnitude less than that of the DRL, which also drops by the same 30% during long-term operation. It is impossible to distinguish between already burning lamps of the same size. Sometimes DRL of different manufacturers differ significantly, both in the strength of the glow and in the visible spectrum, respectively, and in the"catchability". Apparently, this is due to the quality and composition of the glass of the bulb and phosphor, as well as the service life of the lamp. DRV is much more gentle, at the first large drops of rain, explodes, does not like shaking. But more versatile, especially the 250 with an E27 base. DRL is preferable for stationary use. On expeditions, everyone decides for themselves. For many years now, on expeditions, we have been simultaneously shining from both sides of the DRL and DRV screens, 250 apiece, with varying success.
DRV is preferable when connected from batteries, via an inverter.
As for the discussion above about the Led floodlight, I have a pair of portable 50-watt ones at work. We use it for site lighting. The most efficient light per watt of power. But this is a searchlight, almost nothing flies on it, but it can fly on the surface on which it shines, but here it is not the searchlight itself, but the surface that reflects it. And accordingly, there is more light from a searchlight than from a lamp, even with a reflector. But entomologists catch on a light source, a screen for easy collection of insects.
Therefore, it is not correct to offer a searchlight to attract insects. It is simply not effective in the field.

Sometimes DRL of different manufacturers differ significantly, both in the strength of the glow and in the visible spectrum, respectively, and in the"catchability". Apparently, this is due to the quality and composition of the glass of the bulb and phosphor, as well as the service life of the lamp. DRV is much more gentle, at the first large drops of rain, explodes, does not like shaking. But more versatile, especially the 250 with an E27 base. DRL is preferable for stationary use.

I checked different versions of the DRL 250 (which I use). There were also Philipses and Osrams. On the recommendation of konung, three years ago I switched to the DRL 250 Sylvania. I agree with him, this is the best option, and I will recommend it to those who have not tried it yet. Probably everyone who catches at night has encountered the problem of "rain" or"downpour". I have it every third time, especially in the mountains. Here's what DRV users do in this situation: Lamps are sometimes shaken by the first drops. Moreover, everyone here probably knows from their own experience that in the first hours of rain is caught very cool. Why, sometimes on the second and third days of continuous precipitation, amazing specimens arrive. Yes, of course, the intensity of summer is noticeably decreasing. I only write about my experience in my region. Perhaps things are different somewhere.
I understand that everyone has different opportunities. Someone rides an SUV with a pair of generators, putting them in different biotopes, and even simultaneously uses UV traps (by the way, they can sometimes fly a different species composition than on DRL!), and someone on a bicycle, with a battery, or just catches from an outlet. Any method is respected and understood. The question is what to aim for ideally. In my opinion, this is still: generator + throttle + DRL + uv traps

A black screen for collecting insects would be just as convenient as a white one

Why are these conclusions?

There are also omnidirectional versions of LED illuminators. The question is not this, but is the UV stub that does not cut off the DRL glass so important to attract insects, or is brute force (i.e., luminous flux power) more important?

So there were already a lot of works on this topic. According to my personal observations, I will say that in our conditions it is best to fly on the DRL lamp.

These conclusions follow from Djon's statement:

And that such insect traps really work?

What are they? In general, light traps really work, but not for all species. The screen with the data collector attached to it is much more efficient and versatile. In addition, it provides a guarantee against fraying butterflies.

I once saw a documentary film where they collected a catch from a huge stationary light trap-a funnel built on the dacha plot of some bourgeois. The catch was impressive: hawkmoth, ursa major...

Meanwhile, we have started to fly small-by-small to the light (in the first days since March) and the statistics that some people need so much have appeared:

June 5:
DRL-1 "midge"
LED searchlight - 3 "midges"
DNaT bolt.

June 7:
DNaT-1 "midge"
DRL-about 5 "midges"
LED spotlight: about 10 "midges" and 1 large scoop. Moreover, out of three nearby spotlights, almost all the insects chose the one that highlighted the DPR flag as a screen.

This is all shortly after sunset, even before the stars appear. Then it flew more powerful, but I was already at home and caught the 12W analog LB through the window.

The post was edited INO-08.06.2020 13: 20

June 6, Moscow region, kolotaya DRL, approximately 50 hawkmoth, five common species-linden, small and medium wine, pine, oculate; common dipper, lyubritsip, fuliginosa, lutea in quantity; approximately 15 species of crested moth, moth and scoop-a lot. From an interesting kukulia gnafili, zero, just came out. Almost everything is fresh, there were almost no butterflies the day before, but after one warm day, both in terms of quantity and assortment, the night came almost back to normal. There were no proserpines yet, and no blind people or aspen hawks yet. In general, on the peat bog, the butterfly, although with a delay, but came out. I thought everything was dead.
But on the outskirts of Moscow so far nothing has flown

Today's evening statistics: DRL-120 (per eye) - bolt, DRL-250 (per eye) - two "midges", 100W LED spotlights (exactly): a bunch of gold-eyes and worlds. All within a 15-meter radius of each other.

But there was a nuance! Passing an unusual route, I found several awesome bright LED spotlights of a different design (and power, probably 500 watts each). So, unexpectedly, there were only 2-3 times more animals on them than on the road lighting boards hanging next to them, so the model of diodes still matters! Although there are no differences to the eye.

In general, by midnight, I was crazy: scoops and moths are crammed through the crack of the loosely closed window to the kitchen and let's dance around the 75-watt Ilyich light bulb.
This means that a picture of a" black " screen out of context is about nothing.

The message was edited INO-09.06.2020 01: 37

So now special insect traps are being sold, like here https://saoz.ru/catalog/lovushki_dlya_nasekomykh/ I bought it and no problems.

Can anyone explain why they use green light sources in devices like this?:
https://www.watdon.co.uk/acatalog/E7485-Goo...n-gemlight.html
Does green light also attract insects well?

Somewhere posted, probably in this topic, research on the attractiveness of light lengths for butterflies, one of the peaks on the green, when they make prefabricated LEDs insert LEDs with attractive lengths, one of them is green.

Somewhere posted, probably in this topic, research on the attractiveness of light lengths for butterflies, one of the peaks on the green, when they make prefabricated LEDs insert LEDs with attractive lengths, one of them is green.

Thank you.

Can anyone provide links to similar studies? Thank you in advance.