Features of light catching

In addition to the previous post, I want to add that it would be great to have a full canopy over the screen, and even better a house with a large terrace, where you can sit in a comfortable chair, with a glass of cognac and a cigar... Sorry for the verbal fornication, I was dreaming.

No protection from rain and wind resistance, but as a stationary fishing spot is very even.
Good afternoon, Alexander! As for wind resistance, I can say that the structure is quite stable. The continuation of the racks are pointed pins driven into the ground. I did not test the design in hurricane-force winds, the screen can easily withstand 7-8 meters per second. But you can safely walk around without fear of getting caught. I didn't install rain protection based on the weather. It is not tied to the lamp in any way and, like the lamp block, snaps onto the pipe separately if necessary. The structure is completely disassembled in 2 minutes, assembled in 4-5 minutes without tools. The top of the lamp blocks are waterproof, as are the network connectors. Of course, it is very bad that the pipes are solid and have a large length-2.5 meters with pins, but they are easily transported on the trunk. A light prefabricated structure is still in development, but the wheel also did not immediately appear.

I would certainly like to see it with rain protection, this is usually the most interesting thing, how to adjust it. Well, to drive the pins without tools to the desired depth is still a task, conceived not real.

If you protect the entire structure from rain, the easiest way is to use a piece of plastic film on stretch marks. If not in a bare field, then finding places to attach the ends of stretch marks usually does not take much time - neighboring trees. If you only need to protect the lamps - an ordinary folding umbrella, which can be fixed with strays from, for example, a laboratory tripod, is not difficult at all, especially to not very thick tubes.

Good evening to All! In a week, I'll get to the rain protection panel and put up a photo. Actually, the protection from rain of a single lamp does not save the screen and canopy from getting wet. I get really freaked out when I see butterflies leaving dirty footprints on the fabric. And the caught material leaves much to be desired. In mordants, wet butterflies stick to the walls, and how to deal with this?

Thanks! I wouldn't have thought a big guy would fall through such a small hole.
I just made a hole with a diameter of 6.6 cm, but divided in two by one pair of blades.
Don't you think it's too big? Like if it's too big, they'll fly out through it back to the light?

I have one, only it is not divided by partitions, the diameter of the hole through which the butterflies fall is 45 mm, so even Artemis's peacock eyes also fall into this funnel, so it's a very productive thing! And most importantly, it is possible to catch the morning views. Usually I sit at the screen, collect until 2 am, then go to bed and turn on the trap until 5 am, the catch is very different! There is a lot in the trap that is not present in the catch at the screen. Well, it's easier for fans of small things to calmly disassemble the micra at home than to look at it at the screen. Something like this...

Thanks! I wouldn't have thought a big guy would fall through such a small hole.
I just made a hole with a diameter of 6.6 cm, but divided in two by one pair of blades.
Don't you think it's too big? Like if it's too big, they'll fly out through it back to the light?

They will fly out, but not much and a trifle, I also sometimes fly out, I watched standing next to them, but rarely, of course small ones, but on the second approach, they mostly fall again and already with the ends. An important disadvantage of the large opening is that ethyl acetate evaporates faster through it, and in the morning butterflies will start beating inside the container, and there will be a porridge of scales! Also, so as not to fly out, I buried a plastic pipe in the hole (I took a gray plastic pipe from the drains in the household. store), flush with the bottom of the funnel, and going deep into the container for 7-10 cm, that's when it's already problematic to get back even to the scoops.

This post was edited by Alexanor - 19.02.2019 22: 13

An important disadvantage of the large opening is that ethyl acetate evaporates faster through it, and in the morning butterflies will start beating inside the container, and there will be a porridge of scales! Also, so as not to fly out, I buried a plastic pipe in the hole (I took a gray plastic pipe from the drains in the household. store), flush with the bottom of the funnel, and going deep into the container for 7-10 cm, that's when it's already problematic to get back even to the scoops.

With a pipe - a cool idea!
If it's not a secret-from experience-how much does EA spend per night in such a trap?

I think 20-30 ml., but I have a small container, the volume of 6 liters

Thank you.
I will have no ethyl acetate trapped at all. I don't want to kill everyone indiscriminately. I'll put some egg cartons in there, so that they can snuggle up and sit quietly until morning. All videos about traps show this method. I use a large bucket as a container - there is a lot of space there.

They will fly out, but not much and a trifle, I also sometimes fly out, I watched standing next to them, but rarely, of course small ones, but on the second approach, they mostly fall again and already with the ends. An important disadvantage of the large opening is that ethyl acetate evaporates faster through it, and in the morning butterflies will start beating inside the container, and there will be a porridge of scales! Also, so as not to fly out, I buried a plastic pipe in the hole (I took a gray plastic pipe from the drains in the household. store), flush with the bottom of the funnel, and going deep into the container for 7-10 cm, that's when it's already problematic to get back even to the scoops.

This post was edited by PhilGri - 02/20/2019 13: 58

Believe me, if you want at least some quality, then you will have to use ether, no one will sit there quietly until the morning, you will get butterflies with transparent wings, they beat and touch each other there. I've been through this before.

Similarly! About five years ago, I also tried to use a similar type of trap, without poison. But, apparently, the excessive abundance of all kinds of water bodies in our region forced us to abandon this type of material collection - by morning there was a shapeless porridge in the traps, consisting of 90 percent of all kinds of caddis flies and small water lovers, who in the dark did not want to calm down and sit still. To choose from this mass of anything worthwhile was simply unrealistic! Without enough EA supplies , just a screen and bait! But this is my opinion.

And how do you technically put EA in a container so that it evaporates there? Some kind of leaky container with EA-soaked cotton wool?

Believe me, if you want at least some quality, then you will have to use ether, no one will sit there quietly until the morning, you will get butterflies with transparent wings, they beat and touch each other there. I've been through this before.

I think 20-30 ml., but I have a small container, the volume of 6 liters

Nda-a-a-a.... On a 12-liter vessel, yes, if you also catch regularly.... it turns out that you need to dohrena!!!!

Nda-a-a-a.... On a 12-liter vessel, yes, if you also catch regularly.... it turns out that you need to dohrena!!!!

There is no point in a 12-liter pot! I repeat, 6-8 liters per eye, I use square Oceanik containers for 6 and 8 liters. In them, just at the bottom, the egg mold fits very comfortably, cut to the desired size.

Well, what about LED traps?

Pictures:

x_e88ca059.jpg — (62.74к)

Colleagues! I decided to assemble a small garland (5-6 pcs) of 10W UV LEDs 12V for connecting to the car battery (as a backup option). How exactly they will be connected (in series or in parallel - it doesn't matter, as long as they shine). Please suggest the best choice and connection scheme. I found 2 more or less suitable options.
Here's one with the driver:
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/10W-UV-led-u...sAbTest=ae803_3
And here it is without a driver:
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping...sAbTest=ae803_3
In the first version, as I understand it, there is a separate driver (just a board without a case) that can be soldered to the LED plate. But the driver parameters seem to allow you to connect several LEDs to it?
In the second case, you will still have to purchase a driver? If so, with what parameters?
I made a ring illuminator from an LED strip. But everything was simple there - I cut everything into separate parts and connected sections of 3 series-connected SD cards with resistors in parallel with wires. And here something I don't understand...

This is a kit I bought in Moscow. Lamp MGL 70W, EPRA and cartridge for this lamp.

I wonder if you can make a mallet out of it, because the UV in its spectrum should be very small.

Good afternoon, Gray Coleopter! The spectrum of such lamps is very similar to the spectrum of non-split DRL. In a lamp with a color temperature of 4200K , it is the same, but with a temperature of 6000K, the UV is stronger. The outer bulb is a filter that cuts off the hard part of the UV, but not all of it. Therefore, the lamps are installed in an additional protective glass cap. Various spectrum-forming additives are pumped under very high pressure between the burner and the flask. In addition, this volume serves as a "thermos" that maintains the operating temperature of the burner. The lamp shines incredibly bright. This is the brightest light source of the existing types of lamps. A split lamp is unlikely to work, but it definitely won't shine that way. If you compared a split DRL and a non-split DRL, you could see that the non-split DRL shines more brightly. Between the burner and the flask, energy is redistributed from the UV to the visible spectrum, so visually the unsharp flask shines brighter. And in the case, since no one connected such lamps, we will have to wait for an "investigative" experiment.

So for a lamp, it is not so much brightness in the visible spectrum that is important, but in the UV range. By the way, the crushed DRL-250 also shines very brightly.
I am also curious - at what minimum power of UV radiation (for certainty, let's take the spectrum of about 365nm), the attractiveness for insects begins to decrease significantly?

This post was edited by kovyl - 02/25/2019 11: 45

Another interesting thing is that at what minimum power of UV radiation (for certainty, let's take the spectrum of about 365nm), the attractiveness for insects begins to significantly decrease?

It's a small matter - to measure the brightness of UV radiation, and compare it with the DRL. There must be such devices, I think. Well, or indirectly - by the brightness of the glow of some UV-sensitive phosphor (for example, scorpion cuticles ).

Well, there are probably instruments. They probably look like a cast-iron bridge )
I'm thinking about a backup option based on LEDs. Since they are also not cheap, in thought: will 50W be enough for more or less normal fishing or not?
Based on empirical observations, I think that should be enough. If 100W incandescent bulbs sometimes fly well, then 50W UV should?
To test this hypothesis, it would be possible to simply somehow reduce the radiation power of a conventional DRL to 50 W (relatively speaking, remove part of the light flux by dimming, for example). Or am I wrong?

..I wonder if these UV glasses will help? I glued ordinary glass lenses on top[

I'm thinking about a backup option based on LEDs.

"There is such a party!"
http://www.gunnarbrehm.de/en/contact.html

Everything is good, except for the price.

..I wonder if these UV glasses will help? I glued ordinary glass lenses on top

https://www.220-volt.ru/catalog/zashchitnye...__3865201401#h1

 
Everything is good, except for the price.

Yes, the price is absolutely inhumane for us, ordinary Russians
Therefore, I am considering a homemade version, which would provide an acceptable catch in case of problems with the generator and a regular DRL.

This post was edited by kovyl - 02/25/2019 12: 31

Hello! who can say anything about the fubag bs 1000i generator ? In terms of compactness, it's a great thing. But in terms of durability and other parameters, I didn't find any information.

Hello! who can say anything about the fubag bs 1000i generator ? In terms of compactness, it's a great thing. But in terms of durability and other parameters, I didn't find any information.

High fuel consumption, 2 times more than the Kipor, 3 times more than the Honda.

High fuel consumption, 2 times more than the Kipor, 3 times more than the Honda.

Well, in terms of size and weight, the smallest, and this is a priority than consumption. Just considered the option of a generator with manual removal/on a bicycle.

Good afternoon, Gray Coleopter! The spectrum of such lamps is very similar to the spectrum of non-split DRL. In a lamp with a color temperature of 4200K , it is the same, but with a temperature of 6000K, the UV is stronger. The outer bulb is a filter that cuts off the hard part of the UV, but not all of it. Therefore, the lamps are installed in an additional protective glass cap. Various spectrum-forming additives are pumped under very high pressure between the burner and the flask. In addition, this volume serves as a "thermos" that maintains the operating temperature of the burner. The lamp shines incredibly bright. This is the brightest light source of the existing types of lamps. A split lamp is unlikely to work, but it definitely won't shine that way. If you compared a split DRL and a non-split DRL, you could see that the non-split DRL shines more brightly. Between the burner and the flask, energy is redistributed from the UV to the visible spectrum, so visually the unsharp flask shines brighter. And in the case, since no one connected such lamps, we will have to wait for an "investigative" experiment.

We are waiting for a report on the application, it will be interesting, the lamp with EPRA is of course very compact, and the power consumption is acceptable, I myself catch from the car + inverter, I don't want to listen to the generator rattling. With the inverter, I think it will be the most, it remains to hear how it will fly.

If you protect the entire structure from rain, the easiest way is to use a piece of plastic film on stretch marks. If not in a bare field, then finding places to attach the ends of stretch marks usually does not take much time - neighboring trees. If you only need to protect the lamps - an ordinary folding umbrella, which can be fixed with strays from, for example, a laboratory tripod, is not difficult at all, especially to not very thick tubes.

Perhaps someone will be interested in this option of protection from rain during night fishing. In Siberia, especially in the mountains (Sayan Mountains, Kuznetsk Alatau), rain is almost inevitable. How many times I had to break off from the fishing point because of "unexpected" rain. Last year, I built this structure out of aluminum tubes (any hardware store) and a cheap Chinese awning (6 by 4 m) (height 3m 20 cm). As you can see in the photo, the screen under it rises normally. Installing all this nonsense takes an extra 10-15 minutes. There are no trees in the mountains at a decent height, so everything is on tripwires with pegs. When the pegs are difficult to drive in (there are only stones around), I tie the tripwires to heavy stones. Such a device takes up little space, but you can't take it away on a bicycle, unfortunately-you need a car.
As already mentioned on the forum, it sometimes flies very well in the rain. The main thing is that there is no wind and cold. The photo shows that the rain is quite heavy. Sometimes it just turned into a downpour. But the butterflies went as they should! This is June 30, 2018 Western Sayan, Abakan ridge, altitude 1234 m. P.S. Sorry for the quality of the photo. I know it's terrible. I did it by phone, in total darkness in the rain, to somehow remember the biotope.

Pictures:

IMG_20180630_215746.jpg — (5mb)

Aluminum tubes, as I understand it, are also three meters long? You can't take them on a plane ((((

Aluminum tubes, as I understand it, are also three meters long? You can't take them on a plane((((

No, of course not))) They are 1 meter each. Everything is folded and assembled according to the principle of tents or old fishing rods. Again, it doesn't take up much space. You can make it yourself, without argon welding. I picked up tubes of different diameters that fit well into each other. Anyone can make it without any skills and tools. A hammer and a hand hacksaw for metal were enough..

I attached the spectral lamps MGL (HQI-TS) and DRL (HQL) for comparison. MGL - in the left column. From top to bottom, increase the color temperature to 3000K, 4200K, 6500K. Accordingly, we can see how an increase in the color temperature affects the increase in the UV fraction. In the lower-right corner is the DRL spectrum. Compared to MGL, the UV level is lower. Judging by the manufacturer's annotation (OSRAM), the lamps are designed for CLOSED doors.! lamps, precisely because the increased level of UV.

Good evening to all! I decided to buy myself a headlamp. Please share who uses what kind of lamp, and then I understand that the usual battery-powered "Chinese" clearly do not reach the desired level. Thank you in advance for your advice!

Good evening to all! I decided to buy myself a headlamp. Please share who uses what kind of lamp, and then I understand that the usual battery-powered "Chinese" clearly do not reach the desired level. Thank you in advance for your advice!

I have a regular "Navigator" on 19 LEDs. 4 modes-1-7-19 diodes, +flashing (it is superfluous). Instead of batteries - batteries-enough for the night, but always in stock a spare charged kit.

I attached the MGL spectral lamps...

Dear Butterflynet, Please attach a larger picture, otherwise not everything can be made out.
As for the lantern, it also depends on the budget. On the forum fonarevka can give qualified advice.

This post was edited by kovyl - 27.02.2019 07: 55

In order to highlight the screen, see who is rustling in the grass and assemble the screen, I use a Chinese headpiece on ordinary batteries. And that's it, I don't even bother. IMHO.

Good evening to all! I decided to buy myself a headlamp. Please share who uses what kind of lamp, and then I understand that the usual battery-powered "Chinese" clearly do not reach the desired level. Thank you in advance for your advice!

I use the "Siberian Pathfinder" with three modes and a built-in battery, which is usually enough for 2, and sometimes 3 night fishing for 4-7 hours each. True, I turn on the flashlight only when necessary (sometimes, however, forgetting about it for about 30 minutes))). It seems to me that this is a secondary detail. It is much more important what kind of lamp, screen, generator (if it is of course the same). But any flashlight will do, and as a rule, the more you pay, the more you get..

Very satisfied: https://fenix-russia.ru/fonar-fenix-hp15ue/

Good evening to all! I decided to buy myself a headlamp. Please share who uses what kind of lamp, and then I understand that the usual battery-powered "Chinese" clearly do not reach the desired level. Thank you in advance for your advice!

The question is very individual, for what purposes do you need a flashlight? So I'll tell you how I solved the question.
I have two headbands. For light in the" comfort zone " of 1-3 m, in the dark, it provides comfort during any work, food, reading, etc. After a long run, I decided on Petzl hna two LEDs. A lot of Chinese imitations are an order of magnitude, or even two cheaper, but... Mine for many years, never turned on itself, the operating time from three AAA batteries is 90 hours in maximum mode and 180 in economy. There are no situations where it doesn't shine. But under the screen it is bad to work with it, weak light.
To work near the screen and catch butterflies away from the screen or without the screen on baits and on flowers or swarming, I use a Chinese powerful LED on a 18650 battery or two similar ones. Everything is fine, but recommendations: immediately change the batteries that you bought with a flashlight, there is a demo version (do not believe what is written on them, there is a capacity of 0, X apmer/hours) for an hour is not enough. Take batteries only with over-discharge protection, powerful LEDs, quickly kill batteries, and if you accidentally turn on 100%+, you can burn the diode. Branded powerful headsets cost a little less than a generator, probably good.
A head lamp with a built-in battery can fail when you need to discharge, and you need to remove and recharge, and when traveling, the generator works at night, when you need a flashlight, and when to charge?
I don't recommend anything, I shared my experience.