Features of light catching

Hi all, I wanted to ask you who used plant lamps as a light trap source

Just wondering: why? Stick the heater in the refrigerator and see who's who?

They have a very specific spectrum, they are designed for very specific tasks. Even now, almost no one flies to my luminaries on florariums standing by the window, and even more so to a table lamp with white diodes...

I tried to catch on an LED lantern by the river and in its light it was clearly visible how sometimes butterflies flew past and wanted to sneeze at the light. At the same time, there was a mercury lamp on the garden plot and it flew well there. By the way, this lantern, despite its fairly bright 360-degree light, does not fly anywhere. However, a question for professionals, the river can not interfere with fishing? Is it pointless to catch there, or does it make sense to change the lamp to a Sylvania lamp?
As for protection from rain, I have a small umbrella made of polyethylene glued to the lamp above the cartridge by a cord of electrical tape. It covers the cartridge and the top of the lamp is transparent and does not allow water to pass through. Sockets if they are on the street put on a brick and cover with a basin. Even a downpour doesn't bother you. When I was fishing with an accumulator, I simply stuffed all the giblets into 2 large polyethylene garbage bags and slightly tightened the ties.
And more. I saw in the themes a lot of screens made of completely transparent grids. Are they made like this for ease of transport or do they work better than thick cotton fabric?

The river does not particularly interfere, unless of course there is a mass summer of caddisflies, mayflies or other aquatic life. As for the fabric for the screen, this is a matter of habit, transparent fabric is pleasant because you can see insects sitting on it from both sides.

I tried to catch on an LED lantern by the river and in its light it was clearly visible how sometimes butterflies flew past and wanted to sneeze at the light. At the same time, there was a mercury lamp on the garden plot and it flew well there. By the way, this lantern, despite its fairly bright 360-degree light, does not fly anywhere. However, a question for professionals, the river can not interfere with fishing? Is it pointless to catch there, or does it make sense to change the lamp to a Sylvania lamp?
As for protection from rain, I have a small umbrella made of polyethylene glued to the lamp above the cartridge by a cord of electrical tape. It covers the cartridge and the top of the lamp is transparent and does not allow water to pass through. Sockets if they are on the street put on a brick and cover with a basin. Even a downpour doesn't bother you. When I was fishing with an accumulator, I simply stuffed all the giblets into 2 large polyethylene garbage bags and slightly tightened the ties.
And more. I saw in the themes a lot of screens made of completely transparent grids. Are they made like this for ease of transport or do they work better than thick cotton fabric?

Of course, a low-power LED lamp is incomparable to a DRL lamp neither in light output nor in spectrum - any DRL is better, since it is much more powerful and the spectrum is wider, and powerful LED spotlights are expensive. Compare light streams (the distance of attraction is usually directly proportional to the flow):
Cree T6 LED 10W (in a good lamp) - up to 300 lm
LED floodlight 220V 10W - 900lm
LED floodlight 220V 50W - 4500lm
DRL 125W-about 6000lm
DRL 250W-about 13000lm
DRL 400W - about 24000lm

Fabric with perforations is desirable or necessary in windy weather, otherwise it will tear down the screen. There are areas where such weather is the norm. The area of the perforation should be larger, the stronger the wind, and also depends on the design of the screen, its size and method of attachment. In low-wind weather, an ordinary white sheet is suitable. From fabrics with perforations, in my experience, if you shine with a fraction of UV (special lamp or just DRL), it is best to use a special UV-reflecting stretch fabric, or a non-woven perforated covering material such as Spunbond of high density (from 45-60 g / sq. m) - it is cheap, you can change it when dirty, but it gets dirty there are fewer fabrics, and I also use it on under-screen canvases, or synthetic curtain fabrics with small openings. Grids with large cell sizes are inconvenient for some groups, especially small ones, and generally do not highlight themselves well, but they are suitable for many butterflies or large beetles.

any DRL is better

DRL, of course, is "better", but 10 kg of the generator, plus fuel and lubricants to it and other shmurdyak - not always.

For a hospital or car trip, the calculation is the same, but not everywhere you can drive, and not everywhere/always it makes sense to put such a serious light. Such "material" may arrive that you can't take it away...

Therefore, the question of lanterns - yes, small, dead and weak-is still relevant.

I tried to catch on an LED lantern by the river and in its light it was clearly visible how sometimes butterflies flew past and wanted to sneeze at the light.

When fishing on the DRL-250, many butterflies also fly by. However, I spent a couple of years fishing for diode white light and came to the conclusion that it flies much worse on diodes than on CFLs. Therefore, I abandoned the diodes and went back to CFL. I mean autonomous fishing from the battery. A stationary catch on DRL-250.

Please tell me who knows if there are 12v UV lamps? Attempts to climb on the Internet did not give any results. Thank you in advance!

And what is the most important wavelength in the spectrum? The Chinese can easily find and UV or just cold white. And then it will turn out as with light for plants, that all these red-blue lamps work about the same as white ones with an equivalent luminous flux, but they are cheaper.

And then it will turn out as with light for plants, that all these red-blue lamps work about the same as a white one with an equivalent luminous flux.,

You're wrong. "Red-blue" lamps for plants work noticeably better.

You're wrong. "Red-blue" lamps for plants work noticeably better.

I would not like to argue on this topic, if there are differences there, then they are not big (with the exception of lighting up separately with red or blue to stimulate fruiting/flowering, etc.), the question about insects is more important. Does lighting with a different spectrum have a negative effect (for example, the red band scares them away, but attracts UV and green lines like DRL), or is it just the UV of a certain wavelength in the spectrum that is important?

And what is the most important wavelength in the spectrum? The Chinese can easily find and UV or just cold white. And then it will turn out as with light for plants, that all these red-blue lamps work about the same as white ones with an equivalent luminous flux, but they are cheaper.

Specialized UV lamps for attracting insects have a maximum radiation at a wavelength of, if I remember correctly, 365 nm. Catching on a split DRL, which has a much wider glow spectrum and covers all UV ranges (A, B, C), shows that other wavelengths at least do not repel insects.

365 nm is just the most expensive, and here is the dilemma, does it make sense to take 365 several times more expensive than 390 or an order of magnitude more expensive than plain white?
DRL also has a strong green band, so can it be that strong green attracts better than weak UV?

Does lighting with a different spectrum have a negative effect (for example, the red band scares them away, but attracts UV and green lines like DRL), or is it just the UV of a certain wavelength in the spectrum that is important?

Different types of butterflies are attracted by a different spectrum. Some species do not fly to the light at all. Moreover, the light scares them away. This is from personal observations.

Well, this is probably an offtopic discussion of species that do not fly to the light in this topic...
I want to understand where to direct my efforts, buy several COB matrices of the desired spectrum and a ready-made driver, or develop an electronic ballast circuit in order to light the DRL from the battery, without inverters at 50 Hz and heavy chokes.

Or did no one really do this and there is a wide field for experiments and writing dissertations on the topic of spectral preferences of different species?

Well, this is probably an offtopic discussion of species that do not fly to the light in this topic...
or develop an electronic ballast circuit in order to ignite the DRL from the battery, without inverters at 50 Hz and heavy chokes.

Here's what I managed to find, but I haven't been able to implement" in metal " yet.
http://molbiol.ru/forums/index.php?showtop...dpost&p=1695349

I somehow didn't really understand this scheme right away. I was looking away IRS2573D

This post was edited by Mogwaika - 24.10.2018 22: 00

I was looking away IRS2573D

This, I take it, is a microchip? So around it, there's still a bunch of things to unsolder)
For me, this is no less incomprehensible than the scheme that I found

In your diagram, half of the binding is the same. Yes, this is a lot of time for wiring and debugging, and even on a chip taken out of production. This is all of course interesting and exciting, but I would like to understand how much it makes sense.

Maybe someone here tried to catch on white or UV LED assemblies of high power, maybe they fly no worse, eh?

I didn't do this hobby for 10 years, but then science took a step forward, the lights became more accessible and the batteries more capacious, I thought I should prepare for the winter and fish away from places where the outlet is available in the summer.

This post was edited by Mogwaika - 10/25/2018 00: 39

In your diagram, half of the binding is the same. Yes, this is a lot of time for wiring and debugging, and even on a chip taken out of production. This is all of course interesting and exciting, but I would like to understand how much it makes sense.

Discontinued is which one? In theory, there should be an analog, so to speak, of the next generation.
In the scheme that I found, unfortunately, there is no clear recipe that you need to solder to light the DRL-250...

This is the one I sent you. For some reason, their new "analog" is very different in functionality.
I'm afraid your scheme requires fine-tuning for each type of lamp. Yes, and to be honest, I did not fully understand whether it will work from direct current.

This is the one I sent you. For some reason, their new "analog" is very different in functionality.
I'm afraid your scheme requires fine-tuning for each type of lamp. Yes, and to be honest, I did not fully understand whether it will work from direct current.

What is the new analog?

I think it's not a matter of fine tuning, but that some components with unknown characteristics are used. And it makes sense to power the DRL from the battery, it will not last for a long time.

Their newer chip from the same topic is IRS2453D https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-IRS2...153567ac42f2814 if it tells you something.

Well, if you use a fatter lithium battery, it should shine for several hours. I usually had three hours to keep my eyes open, and then I wanted to go to sleep and fly less.

If you have an outlet, then there is probably no problem in the efficiency and the usual throttle.

If you have an outlet, then there is probably no problem in the efficiency and the usual throttle.

A normal throttle is 3-4 kilograms of easily digestible meat in your luggage, which is sometimes very critical, and even suspicious of the airport's aviation security service.
They also don't like batteries in their luggage, by the way. It is for the purpose of fishing in distant countries that I am thinking about assembling a lightweight EPRA.

A normal throttle is 3-4 kilograms of easily digestible meat in your luggage, which is sometimes very critical, and even suspicious of the airport's aviation security service.
They also don't like batteries in their luggage, by the way. It is for the purpose of fishing in distant countries that I am thinking about assembling a lightweight EPRA.

Again, it seems that you can consistently run the DRL through a powerful incandescent lamp.

This post was edited by Mogwaika - 26.10.2018 11: 30

Here, by the way, in just field conditions, in the absence of visible light sources within a radius of several kilometers, any lamp, including 20W, will do. Even the DRL flask does not need to be pricked. If you do not want to drag and connect the throttle, then there is a throttle-free DRV for this (although if you split it, the arc will cover). If there are lanterns nearby, and "windows have an unquenchable light", then only UV or split DRL with all precautions taken.

As for the wavelength, you need to search, but about the power, it is known for sure that the most attractive power of a UV source is 250 watts. Gornostaev has something about it somewhere.
However, you can catch and so (in a completely wild area): use two DRL/DRV lamps of different power (for example, 150 and 300 W), turn them on alternately, first the more powerful one, then the less powerful one. The principle of the method is as follows: some insects rush directly to the light source, some-sit down a little further away. When you turn on another lamp, they fly to the screen. I used it myself, the method is effective and well described.
As for the sale of lamps that do not require a fixed connection, you can dig through sites with entomological equipment or find special fluorescent lamps in specialized stores.

Hi friends, I'm new to the forum and I'm not quite sure where the email will end up. In any case, I kind of want to ask experts on the topic-does anyone know about the attractiveness of long-wave ultraviolet light in relation to codling moth (Cydia Pomonella) ? I use a 15 watt Philips actinic lamp with a peak radiation of 365 nm for a long night and nothing.... A bunch of all sorts of otherworldly insects, but Cydia Pomonella is not rushing, for the life of you. The LEDs work with the same result...

http://www.lepiforum.de/2_forum_2017.pl?gp...d=read;id=11415

does anyone know about the attractiveness of long-wavelength ultraviolet light in relation to codling moth (Cydia Pomonella)?

I won't say anything about Cydia Pomonella, but in general, leafhoppers are active in the morning and evening. At night, they are not active and therefore it is not promising to collect them in the light. Some species arrive, of course, but this is a drop in the bucket.

I don't agree about leafmakers. They are quite active at night. Another thing is that not all species. C. pomonella flies perfectly to the light (collected on DRL-250).

I don't agree about leafmakers. They are quite active at night. Another thing is that not all species. C. pomonella flies perfectly to the light (collected on DRL-250).

Please share your observations of the nocturnal activity of leafmakers.
Excellent flights - how many flights per night?

Please share your observations of the nocturnal activity of leafmakers.
Excellent flights - how many flights per night?

Leaf wrappers generally fly well into the light, but there are indeed species that fly poorly or very poorly into the light (only those on which the lamp was placed ) ) I can only think of a few types. And this applies to all kinds of light sources from petromax to DRL. Cydia fly well into the light.

Has anyone tried germicides? Looked at this site http://uv-product.com/uv-lamps Who the fuck knows if you should get involved, but how?

Gentlemen, has anyone tried metal halide lamps for our business? Tell us if you had any experience!

Gentlemen, comrades, boyars... who have considerable experience in night fishing, I would very much like to hear your highly respected opinion on the adaptations from the last two posts of this topic

Gentlemen, comrades, boyars... who have considerable experience in night fishing, I would very much like to hear your highly respected opinion on the adaptations from the last two posts on this topic

I didn't catch them myself, but they're supposed to fly well. Only the eyes need to be protected.

I didn't catch them myself, but they're supposed to fly well. Only the eyes need to be protected.

Behind your back-that's understandable! It's just that I've never been an electrician, I catch it mainly from a car-through an inverter. On a regular lamp-not impressive. I tried on the UV-savings bank-better, but still, I smell-not the same! Especially when the bait is not far away and there is something to compare it with. I want something more catchy, but without any frills for skilled hands, such as chopped DRL.

Behind your back-that's understandable! It's just that I've never been an electrician, I catch it mainly from a car-through an inverter. On a regular lamp-not impressive. I tried on the UV-savings bank-better, but still, I smell-not the same! Especially when the bait is not far away and there is something to compare it with. I want something more catchy, but without any frills for skilled hands, such as chopped DRL.

If you are traveling on a vehicle, try to catch on a split DRL powered by a generator. The best solution, in my opinion.

If you are traveling on a vehicle, try to catch on a split DRL powered by a generator. The best solution, in my opinion.

The point is that you really don't want to mess with homemade products, especially if they can be replaced with something suitable, but not made by hand. From my experience - the most catchy was the device (now I don't remember its name) from the distant Soviet past - for quartz movement, but it was turned off by a timer after either 15 or 30 minutes. But it was coming at him!!!!!

The point is that you really don't want to mess with homemade products, especially if they can be replaced with something suitable, but not made by hand. From my experience - the most catchy was the device (now I don't remember its name) from the distant Soviet past - for quartz movement, but it was turned off by a timer after either 15 or 30 minutes. But it was coming at him!!!!!

Well, a crushed DRL is a minimum of "collective farming", but it flies very well on it.
But it's up to you, of course.

Well, a crushed DRL is a minimum of "collective farming", but it flies very well on it.
But it's up to you, of course.

So I would like to know the opinion of a respected community regarding those strays that are on the site I specified.
I myself am a collective farmer, but I am very wary of "collective farming", especially in electricity. There is quite a rich, but very non-positive experience.

I caught almost all types of lamps, there is no single recipe, it depends on the area, time of year, weather. Generally speaking, a stab drl is the most effective, followed by a non-stab drl. There is nothing complicated in splitting the AWL. If you do not want to work on the flask for half an hour with a file, then the easiest way is to wrap the Phillips drl in a rag, hold it in a vise and tighten it to a characteristic sound In the field, wrap the drl in a rag and use a hammer