Features of light catching

I caught almost all types of lamps, there is no single recipe, it depends on the area, time of year, weather. Generally speaking, a stab drl is the most effective, followed by a non-stab drl. There is nothing complicated in splitting the AWL. If you do not want to work on the flask for half an hour with a file, then the easiest way is to wrap the Phillips drl in a rag, hold it in a vise and tighten it to a characteristic sound In the field, wrap the drl in a rag and use a hammer

I wrap it with tape instead of a rag - fragments never hit the flask

I never use a "mallet" and I don't recommend it to you. You can't collect all the butterflies, and it's expensive to treat your eyes now, and there's no guarantee that you won't "irradiate" the locals, because they don't know what's burning. I always use either DRV-160 or DRL-400 in the country, as a hospital. But this year, a colleague yuzal "black" UV-ku. And it flew well together with the DRV-160. As for the bactericides, I think we should try, I don't think that everything flies straight on them like "manna from heaven"

On a non-punctured DRL, it also flies very much. However, for theoretical reasons, there should be a maximum catch for chipped fish, since the content of UV radiation emitted by it is the highest. To protect my eyes, I use two lamps - a split lamp and a whole lamp. I removed it from the screen, connected the stab, moved away, waited, came over, disconnected it. I don't turn it off at all. The light is crushed well, just awesome, I don't even know what to compare it with. Both DRL-250 lamps. By the way, my screen is in one plane, so recently I even used three or two integers on both sides of the screen and pounding above it. Why on both sides - so you can better see what is happening on the other side, if one lamp, then glare and reflections from the screen will prevent you from seeing boogers on the unlit side.

This post was edited by kovyl - 12/28/2018 10: 39

The point is that you really don't want to mess with homemade products, especially if they can be replaced with something suitable, but not made by hand. From my experience - the most catchy was the device (now I don't remember its name) from the distant Soviet past - for quartz movement, but it was turned off by a timer after either 15 or 30 minutes. But it was coming at him!!!!!

Yes, it flies on germicidal and quartz lamps. And no worse than a stab DRL. The only problem is that if you use a ready-made device like the old
Soviet-Baltic one, in which there are two heaters instead of a throttle, the light turns out to be directed. And so, the crushed DRL is essentially a bactericidal lamp.

Has anyone tried germicides? Looked at this site http://uv-product.com/uv-lamps Who the fuck knows if you should get involved, but how?

I tried to catch on a bactericide back in my Yunnatian youth. The result is negative.

Yes, it flies on germicidal and quartz lamps. And no worse than a stab DRL. The only problem is that if you use a ready-made device like the old
Soviet-Baltic one, in which there are two heaters instead of a throttle, the light turns out to be directed. And so, the crushed DRL is essentially a bactericidal lamp.

No, a stab DRL is not an effective germicidal lamp. The spectrum of the bactericide is much narrower.

I tried to catch on a bactericide back in my Yunnatian youth. The result is negative.

I caught a little more adult age and more catchy lamp has not yet met. The same UV savings banks did not stand nearby. Just make a reservation that DRV and DRL did not use. But there were also floodlights in use, the same thing-not the same.

Still, I think we should try. Question to experts-just make a reservation that I'm in electrical engineering - I've never been to Copenhagen at all - if I have an AVS 12/220V IN-1000W car inverter, then what can I hang on it, from what's in the picture (there are different capacities there). But, optimally?

Pictures:

_____.png — (302.33к)

Where are you going to connect the inverter?

No matter where to connect the inverter, it is clear that on the terminals of the accumulator when the engine is running. But 254 nm!!!! The mallet is resting, which is a much tougher uv than hers. No, of course, at this wavelength, there may be some minimum power from the beater, but not so much! And most importantly, insects did not give up this wavelength. But the eyes, skin and plants will come full kindyk Do not want to prick, catch on the usual drl phillips and there will be much more happiness!

No matter where to connect the inverter, it is clear that on the terminals of the accumulator when the engine is running. But 254 nm!!!! The mallet is resting, which is a much tougher uv than hers. No, of course, at this wavelength, there may be some minimum power from the beater, but not so much! And most importantly, insects did not give up this wavelength. But the eyes, skin and plants will come full kindyk Do not want to prick, catch on the usual drl phillips and there will be much more happiness!

Always connected via a cigarette lighter. Why do I have to go through the terminals? And what power to take DRLku under such an inverter? Do not consider it boring, but I studied the entire forum and so I didn't understand anything-I need some kind of pribludy varganit under it? Or can I take it ready-made? Well I'm afraid of all sorts of electrical frills

I, in turn, tried out a lot of lamps and structures for catching insects in the light. I have to disagree with the opinion about UV safety lamps (it flies very well, especially in self-driving cars).
I had a negative experience (in terms of the number of traps caught) on THREE types of traps with germicidal lamps. I agree that the wavelength of 254 nm, and everything up to 350 nm, is not interesting for insects at all. The wavelength that attracts insects is from 350 to 370 nm (this is proven by trial and error).
Don't bother with these germicides. If you want from the inverter, then use UV housekeepers or Sylvania Blacklight 350 UV lamps, or their analogues, which give UV radiation in the range of 315 and 400 nm (maximum at 352 nm). I use them in self-driving exercises or as auxiliary to the DRL (the result is excellent).
I would put germicidal lamps in terms of efficiency immediately after incandescent lamps (insects also fly on them in the dark and in the entrances).
Well, it's up to you to decide.

.... Sylvania Blacklight 350 .....

I looked at these Sylvania Blacklight 350 - "controlled from the RF PRA or starter ignition". Ambush - not just screwed-turned on!

Yes, we also use Sylvanias in light traps or as an additional supplement to the drl. But the main one on the screen is still drl, whether it's broken or not, it's still drl. Better with a power of 250 watts. Phillips or Osram firms, you don't need to take Russian ones, they fly noticeably worse. Accordingly, the throttle under the DRL with a power of 250. Cartridge E40. Wires. I do not advise using a cigarette lighter, the starting current of this lamp is huge, the cigarette lighter wiring is not adapted to such a load. Yes, Sylvania burns through EPRA, but what are the problems? Immediately, along with the lamp, you buy EPRA, better with a reserve, so that later when it dies, you don't have to look for a new one, but they will die from bad Chinese two-stroke engines or in heavy rain not infrequently. But using Sylvania on the screen without drl is very boring

Yes, we also use Sylvanias in light traps or as an additional supplement to the drl. But the main one on the screen is still drl, whether it's broken or not, it's still drl. Better with a power of 250 watts. Phillips or Osram firms, you don't need to take Russian ones, they fly noticeably worse. Accordingly, the throttle under the DRL with a power of 250. Cartridge E40. Wires. I do not advise using a cigarette lighter, the starting current of this lamp is huge, the cigarette lighter wiring is not adapted to such a load. Yes, Sylvania burns through EPRA, but what are the problems? Immediately, along with the lamp, you buy EPRA, better with a reserve, so that later when it dies, you don't have to look for a new one, but they will die from bad Chinese two-stroke engines or in heavy rain not infrequently. But using Sylvania on the screen without drl is very boring

I agree about the cigarette lighter. Do they really fly better on imported ones? Are there other wavelengths? In my opinion, it depends more on the night. It happens that they fly quite well on an incandescent lamp. But of course, you can't compare it with the DRL.
If there is a car, I would rather buy a generator for the lamp. That's why I asked where to connect the inverter.

This post was edited by kovyl - 12/29/2018 10: 30

If there is a car, I would rather buy a generator for the lamp. That's why I asked where to connect the inverter.

We have such an abandoned territory that you can easily drive up to almost any hot spot on an ordinary Field. And the chainsaw and hatchet work wonders when preparing the point for catching ! And there is already a field+inverter+lamp. I don't mess with the generator it's an expensive pleasure + I don't see much point for the UV housekeeper
I understand that after all, almost everyone is leaning towards the good old DRL, well, or DRV. I am inclined to the latter - it is still connected directly, and my fishing spots do not suffer from extraneous light sources at all. More from uninvited guests like curious foxes and raccoon dogs.
And questions arise due to the fact that progress, after all, does not stand still, and, perhaps, something more compact, safe and convenient has already appeared. Well, and also less energy-consuming.

This post was edited by major65-29.12.2018 13: 05

And there is already a field+inverter+lamp. I don't mess with the generator it's an expensive pleasure

Repair of the niva cooling system covered with a copper basin will still be more expensive later than the cost of the generator.

Repair of the niva cooling system covered with a copper basin will still be more expensive later than the cost of the generator.

And from what fright should it be covered ? This is the first thing. And secondly-I'll take a replacement one, while the first one is being repaired . And, thirdly, Niva - at the expense of a greedy owner, and the generator-from its own, not so big salary.

Hello Dear Forumchane! I wish you a Happy New Year. I wish you All great Catches, vivid Impressions and unforgettable Trips. I'm on the forum for the first time. I read the section three times before venturing to ask any questions that interest me, as well as share with you my thoughts on some ways to catch butterflies. A little bit about yourself. I live in the Belgorod region. I really started collecting butterflies two years ago. This is an amateur goal. In two seasons, he spread one and a half thousand lepidoptera, mostly nocturnal. Caught on a combination of pricked and whole DRL, as well as different LL with a UV component. The topic of lightening light sources and reducing energy consumption is still relevant today. After carefully studying the characteristics of various types of lamps, I drew attention to the MGL lamps. These lamps have almost twice the luminous flux compared to DRL (70sh-6000 lumens, against 125sh-6200 lumens of DRL). In addition, the lamps have different color temperatures, which allows you to conduct experiments to attract different species. The lamps are compact, connected from the EPRA.

In continuation of the previous post, I ask you to express your opinion on the use of MGL lamps. At the same time, about the use of the method of alternating DRL lamps. I turn on two 125w bulbs. Thus, I simulate a 250w lamp (in terms of total light flow, the replacement is almost equivalent). After half an hour, I turn off one lamp. After 15-20 minutes, I turn it back on. The cycles are repeated. This way I get a number of advantages. I reduce starting loads, weight and dimensions of throttles, lamps and spare parts (IDENTICAL LAMPS allow you to simplify the configuration, creating an increased degree of safety).dear sirs. Please do not hesitate to express your opinion. Without offense, I will listen to any of your opinions and corrections. Looking forward to it! Thank YOU so much in advance.

In continuation of the previous post, I ask you to express your opinion on the use of MGL lamps. At the same time, about the use of the method of alternating DRL lamps. I turn on two 125w bulbs. Thus, I simulate a 250w lamp (in terms of total light flow, the replacement is almost equivalent). After half an hour, I turn off one lamp. After 15-20 minutes, I turn it back on. The cycles are repeated. This way I get a number of advantages. I reduce starting loads, weight and dimensions of throttles, lamps and spare parts (IDENTICAL LAMPS allow you to simplify the configuration, creating an increased degree of safety).dear sirs. Please do not hesitate to express your opinion. Without offense, I will listen to any of your opinions and corrections. Looking forward to it! Thank YOU very much in advance.

Have you compared the "catchability" of these lamps with DRL? Which models were used and with which EPRA?

And questions arise due to the fact that progress, after all, does not stand still, and, perhaps, something more compact, safe and convenient has already appeared. Well, and also less energy-consuming.

From a modern and energy-efficient one, I would recommend here: https://ru.aliexpress.com/store/product/Fre...1807145331.html
In combination with ordinary white ones, so that you can see it with human eyes.
However, the DRL and generator are all cheaper.
You can stick it in the cigarette lighter if there is a proper fuse that will burn out before the wiring, although there is a stupid connector there, it can heat up and catch fire itself.

The thing is, I haven't done such an experiment yet. I want to experiment in the new season. I looked after soffit lamps from OSRAM, PHILIPS, etc. Metal halide lamps 70-150w under the RX7s cartridge. Lamps are similar in appearance to PRK lamps. The color characteristics are similar to the DRL. The hard uf is cut off, as in the DRL by an external bulb. The spectra of lamps with different color temperatures differ, but yf is sufficient in all lamps. Unfortunately, there are a lot of disadvantages! High price (the production technology is very complex, all products are only developed cap. countries). Sensitivity to voltage and, as a result, the possibility of an explosion. Compliance with the polarity when connecting and, like conventional halogen lamps, sensitivity to dirty hands. But the benefits are obvious. 150W MGL with a luminous flux of 12000-14000 lm consumes together with the native EPRA, 160W. The EPRA weighs approximately 150 grams. DRL 250W has the same luminous flux, but consumes about 400w with PRA, and the throttle weighs 2 kg. Total: relative efficiency=2.5. I hope that the listed problems in the operation of these lamps are completely surmountable. Detailed information on lamps can be found on the website of the shop 220 store of the VDL company. Thank you for your interest in my suggestion.

  
I understand that after all, almost everyone is leaning towards the good old DRL, well, or DRV. I am inclined to the latter - it is still connected directly, and my fishing spots do not suffer from extraneous light sources at all.

DRV uses a lot of electricity in heat, if I understand correctly.

The thing is, I haven't done such an experiment yet. I want to experiment in the new season. I looked after soffit lamps from OSRAM, PHILIPS, etc. Metal halide lamps 70-150w under the RX7s cartridge. Lamps are similar in appearance to PRK lamps. The color characteristics are similar to the DRL. The hard uf is cut off, as in the DRL by an external bulb. The spectra of lamps with different color temperatures differ, but yf is sufficient in all lamps. Unfortunately, there are a lot of disadvantages! High price (the production technology is very complex, all products are only developed cap. countries). Sensitivity to voltage and, as a result, the possibility of an explosion. Compliance with the polarity when connecting and, like conventional halogen lamps, sensitivity to dirty hands. But the benefits are obvious. 150W MGL with a luminous flux of 12000-14000 lm consumes together with the native EPRA, 160W. The EPRA weighs approximately 150 grams. DRL 250W has the same luminous flux, but consumes about 400w with PRA, and the throttle weighs 2 kg. Total: relative efficiency=2.5. I hope that the listed problems in the operation of these lamps are completely surmountable. Detailed information on lamps can be found on the website of the shop 220 store of the VDL company. Thank you for your interest in my suggestion.

You can give me the exact link, better. And so there seems to be usually everything in the inner flask, and not in the outer one, not?

And from what fright should it be covered ? This is the first thing. And secondly-I'll take a replacement one, while the first one is being repaired . And, thirdly, Niva - at the expense of a greedy owner, and the generator-from its own, not so large salary .

Does the owner pay for the catch, or do you drive his car to the left?

You can give me the exact link, better. And so there seems to be usually everything in the inner flask, and not in the outer one, no?

info@shop220.ru Dear Mogwaika, MGL-mercury-quartz lamps, similar in principle to DRL. They also have an internal burner and an external flask. They differ from DRL in the composition of light-emitting additives instead of phosphor.

Does the owner pay for the catch, or do you drive his car to the left?

Just six-legged owner is afraid to horror! Why-to the left?! This is both a hobby and part of the job

info@shop220.ru Dear Mogwaika, MGL-mercury-quartz lamps, similar in principle to DRL. They also have an internal burner and an external flask. They differ from DRL in the composition of light-emitting additives instead of phosphor.

Then maybe it makes sense to use a bundle of DRL and a suitable ESR in terms of power?
I looked at the site - there are MGL lamps with E27 and E40 sockets on sale, why did you decide to stop at the RX7s cartridge?

It seems-here is an interesting thing, but again-you need a throttle :

Pictures:

____Sylvania_HSW_250W_E40_Blacklight.png — (181.19к)

Well, or such, but already DRV-throttle-free .

Pictures:

____Sylvania_HSBW_160W_E27_Blacklight_______________.png — (177.05к)

Then maybe it makes sense to use a bundle of DRL and a suitable ESR in terms of power?
I looked at the site - there are MGL lamps with E27 and E40 sockets on sale, why did you decide to stop at the RX7s cartridge?

Dear Bad Den! Judging by the information read on the forum, some participants raised the issue of using EPRA for AWACS navigation systems. Unfortunately, after my long search, as well as the search of other participants, the result is negative. None of the world's leading companies has been able to create EPRA for DRL lamps over the decades of their production. EPRA for MGL and DNAT lamps are not suitable for starting parameters. I think that the result when connecting will be either deplorable or very deplorable. Regarding the choice of lamps for RX7s or E27 (E40). I consider this issue from the point of view of the design in one lamp body and EPRA. Otherwise, there is no fundamental difference. In addition, a fairly efficient but powerful light source allows you to use rechargeable batteries.

I consider this issue from the point of view of the design in one lamp body and EPRA.

Can I give you an example of such a lamp?

Well, or such, but already DRV-throttle-free .

Such lamps have already been discussed on the forum. It's a Wood-paned lamp. Skips only yf-c. I used this one. In terms of catchability, the same DRL, but several times more expensive. It needs additional illumination. After it burst from the rain, there was a burner left, which I still use. I don't buy this lamp anymore.

Can I give you an example of such a lamp?

I will display a photo of a similar design with CFLs. But I can do it one of these days. Unfortunately, Family and holiday duties rule!

Such lamps have already been discussed on the forum. It's a Wood-paned lamp. Skips only yf-c. I used this one. In terms of catchability, the same DRL, but several times more expensive. It needs additional illumination. After it burst from the rain, there was a burner left, which I still use. I don't buy this lamp anymore.

With a price-yes-ambush! Illumination is not the main problem?! There are also headlamps, and ordinary DRV in this case. There are also cases when the lack of a bright glow is just a plus when fishing.
Ah, yes, we usually have more rainy nights than lunar ones (the outgoing year is an exception) and I always protect all used lamps from precipitation in advance with a protective cap made from the top of a 5-6-liter plastic bottle.

This post was edited by major65 - 12/30/2018 17: 08

Then maybe it makes sense to use a bundle of DRL and a suitable ESR in terms of power?
I looked at the site - there are MGL lamps with E27 and E40 sockets on sale, why did you decide to stop at the RX7s cartridge?

Having doubted the correctness of the choice of cartridge, I checked my thoughts on this matter. The horizontal arrangement and minimal dimensions of the lamp allow you to reliably protect it from careless handling. In addition, the price of these lamps is lower than the equivalent power, but with different sockets. With such plinths, there is a line of ceramic lamps-more expensive, but what is good for a Russian is death for a German. The yf level of such lamps is really lower, so you should not mess with them.

Such lamps have already been discussed on the forum. It's a Wood-paned lamp. Skips only yf-c. I used this one. In terms of catchability, the same DRL, but several times more expensive. It needs additional illumination. After it burst from the rain, there was a burner left, which I still use. I don't buy this lamp anymore.

And what's the point of filtering visible light if some species don't like it?

I always protect all used lamps from precipitation in advance with a protective cap made from the top of a 5-6-liter plastic bottle.

Can't swim? I had a fever from DRL-ki hoo-hoo. I made a thin stainless steel cap and reflector.

Can't swim? I had a fever from DRL-ki hoo-hoo. I made a thin stainless steel cap and reflector.

It will not float, as I have only used UV-savings so far. Hluhoman, damn it! So far, there were enough of them, but, as always, the appetite comes during fishing. And I already want to try something more advanced.