Soil traps

When preparing for the installation, first of all, you need to decide in advance how many traps you will set.
I personally put 600-800 traps per point
Depending on the region, it takes from 1 to 3 days
At the trap point there are from 8 to 11 days
The route is drawn during installation beacons are placed on
turns ( The main thing is to lay your route on the point
so as to cover all stations of this point )
And the sweat shed in this case always pays off more than enough
Prozba to believe me and my 20 years of experience in this difficult dele

The sweat you shed on this case can not but cause respect *)

Despite the fact that I was previously limited to 20 points per point )

When preparing for the installation, first of all, you need to decide in advance how many traps you will set.
I personally put 600-800 traps per point
Depending on the region, it takes from 1 to 3 days
At the trap point there are from 8 to 11 days
The route is drawn during installation beacons are placed on
turns ( The main thing is to lay your route on the point
so as to cover all stations of this point )
And the sweat shed in this case always pays
off you can trust me and my 20 years of experience in this difficult task with a vengeance

Why are there so many traps? How many traps are there on average per station?

It depends on what is meant by "point". If this is a specific clearing or edge of 100 meters in size, 30-40 traps will suffice (unless, of course, you set the goal of commercial total fishing). If you understand the entire area around the base as a point, where the trapper can get on foot, then there should be much more traps, although 600-800 in my opinion is still too much, you often have to walk and go far, it can be problematic to drag so many traps on yourself. In such cases, I limit myself to a hundred. I mark traps with pieces of colored polythene tied to bushes; if there are none, I stick sticks in them. If you set traps in some monotonous spaces (swamps, steppe, etc.), it is convenient to mark the beginning and end of the line with a point on the GPS, this greatly facilitates the process of their subsequent detection. And yet, I think I put traps-it is absolutely necessary to remove, we must not allow that there would be lost traps, in vain ruined beetles do not do honor to the entomologist.

Since I try not to take large series, I put about five traps per station, about three stations per trip. Usually the catch is quite enough to make an impression about the fauna and not spend hours going around and catching animals from glasses, and then store duplicates on mattresses for years. Last year in Adygea, for example, a forest edge, wet swampy places in a beech forest, dry oak forest were selected. That is, in total, about 15 traps, each with at least three large (carabid) or several dozen small beetles. The distance between the glasses is five or ten meters. You check at least once every two days. If nothing attacked at all - there is no point in waiting for something more, it is more logical to choose another place, and if the density is high-one night catch is enough for the eyes. Well, this is according to my humble collector's understanding.

This post was edited by Nilson - 05/21/2008 13: 28

If you need to quickly identify the main species composition, 5 traps per station is not enough. In this case, I usually put 20 traps on the station ( 2 lines of 10 traps each). This usually allows you to identify the main species present in a few days.

It also depends on the bait. We with Anthrenus, om put in the park for fauna research. It is served with vinegar. I - 8 with strong beer (but really worked 6). We chose it twice. The first time (a week after the production), he had 20 species of Carabidae, I had 8. But the next time - I got almost all the "missing" species, and Anthrenus,and (according to him) even had few background ones (compared to the first time).

5-7 is enough for a station. It is better to arrange more stations to get the overall picture. You can't set more than 50 traps per day(usually even less).And then this is at the maximum calculation. After all, you also need to put sticks with lids. Otherwise, we have in the West of Ukraine pozalivaet instantly all the traps. .I mark the place by tying pieces of polyethylene to trees or bushes. By summer, the area is so overgrown that you won't find any traps later.
Fixative: 50% vinegar 9%, 50% beer, + salt to taste.

This post was edited by rpanin - 05/21/2008 16: 07

And I have on Rublyovka Dorcadion for 2 hours put 120 traps With a brew, but without a lid. It was already dark...

And I have on Rublyovka Dorcadion for 2 hours put 120 traps With a brew, but without a lid. It was already dark...

And why put such a number on Rublyovka? What did he want to catch?

And I have on Rublyovka Dorcadion for 2 hours put 120 traps With a brew, but without a lid. It was already dark...

You can also bet more .Just the result ?
It is necessary to approach this process creatively. Sometimes it takes an excruciatingly long time to think about where and how much to put traps , and whether it's worth putting them at all(depending on the perspective of the area). And then not to forget the place.

10-20 traps are enough for broken places. Both for yourself and for the exchange is enough. Put more - put the local population of beetles (Carabus besseri, Carabus estreicheri, Carabus (Hygrocarabus) variolosus) on the verge of extinction. After all, many species live on plots from 1 to several hectares.

This post was edited by rpanin - 05/21/2008 17: 08

The most interesting thing that is found there is Nebria gyllenhali And so-you never know

In general, there is some untruth here, but I don't remember exactly how it was..
In about an hour, 60-80 traps were set, and the next day the rest were set.

We wanted to catch it:
for Dorcadion, all our usual species were a novelty - they wanted to catch granulatus, nemoralis, coriaceus, maybe something else, for example hortensis (well, it's clear that it's not there) and other species, including all small beetles.
I was also interested in nemoralis, which I never had, as well as coriaceus, because coriaceus is a subspecies of rugifer, and the nominative is larger and more beautiful
We also caught interesting leistus, I've already forgotten what the species is called-with a black head. and other beetles, many of them interesting to Dorcadion, and some to me. Even Dina's had it
Well, and of course, nebria Gyllenhaal crawled into the glasses, although not so much-just a little more

, as well as coriaceuses, because coriaceuses are a subspecies of rugifer, and the nominative is larger and more beautiful

Something I didn't understand. Who is bigger and prettier?

coriaceus ssp. coriaceus is bigger and prettier than coriaceus ssp. rugifer

Leistus terminatus is

I don't know, it usually takes me about half a day to set up a hundred traps, including finding a place to install them, although I usually don't put lids on the bowl, but the traps themselves are a little more complicated than usual: I don't pour the bait directly into the glass, but put it in a penicillin bubble with cotton wool, and usually use wine vinegar. I put the filled bottle in a glass. Advantages: beetles stay alive, you can not take mass species that are not needed; bait is saved. Disadvantages: it is rare that small beetles are eaten by larger ones, but this happens infrequently; traps have to be checked every 3-5 days.

coriaceus ssp. coriaceus is larger and prettier than coriaceus ssp. rugifer

The question is debatable, of course, and a matter of taste, but our Carpathian is much larger (up to 43mm), with a black lacquer gloss and well-sculpted elytra.

Comrades, there is a question about the time of setting traps. What can you recommend regarding bonuses? That is, when are the main seasons, and when does it make no sense to put them at all? What are the differences in this respect for forest species in comparison with steppe ones (if we have them at all)? Again, does it make sense to put it in parks and forests if there is no rain for a long time?
Recently, I put several traps with vinegar in the forest park - only 1 cancellatus and a lot of small ground beetles of the same species came running to those that were at the flooded point, in the rest (in the thickets, on the edges) almost no one at all. Therefore, the question arose - maybe they have already run away, and it was necessary to put it earlier, or just a shitty forest park, or it should be put away from the city?...

Maybe a forest park.. Or maybe it's better to try wine or mash instead of vinegar in the same place - and then see what happens.. And the weather.. yes, anything can affect here, although it is unlikely to affect the karabuses much. Another 1 factor - the number of traps, maybe a little, or maybe a small variety of places where you put.. For example, in one clearing of 40x40 meters in one place I didn't come across anything, in another a couple of chlenius, in the third granulatus and convexus, etc. Put just on different edges, and in the middle of the clearing, for meat.

Maybe a forest park.. Or maybe it's better to try wine or mash instead of vinegar in the same place - and then see what happens.. And the weather.. yes, anything can affect here, although it is unlikely to affect the karabuses much. Another 1 factor - the number of traps, maybe a little, or maybe a small variety of places where you put.. For example, in one clearing of 40x40 meters in one place I didn't come across anything, in another a couple of chlenius, in the third granulatus and convexus, etc. I just put it on different edges, and in the middle of the clearing, on meat.

Yes, I also put on different points, only 1 per point is probably not enough... Although, with a normal number of beetles, they would definitely come running. About 10 years ago, if you go out for a walk on a warm evening , it was difficult not to step on a glabratus, an auropunctatum or an investigator. And now - how extinct. With braga, too, I bet - a crowd of dead eaters, spiders, millipedes, in general, anyone but ground beetles came

what to say.. good times

So it turns out that there is a discussion on baits, but no one can say anything about the seasonality of ground beetle traps, or does not want to

So it turns out that there is a discussion on baits, but no one can say anything about the seasonality of ground beetle traps, or does not want to

Don't worry, Swansson. The fact is that in order to calculate a specific species, you need to know its biology. Some carbuses are active during the day, while others are active at night. Some species are forest, others are meadow or steppe. An important role is played by the evening and night temperatures at the time of fishing, the type and humidity of the biotope, anthropogenic load, etc., etc. In practice, the greatest catchability is found in the "border" areas of the area (plains) - the border of forests, clearings, and shrubby thickets. By season-most species of the genus show maximum activity in the spring (breeding) and autumn (pre-winter) time. I can give you one example : out of 20 traps ( 10 in a row, with a distance between the rows of 10 m) dug in a subalpine meadow in the Altai, 5 Carabus regalis were caught in the first row overnight, and about 35 in the second. Therefore, no one will name the finished recipe. Try it out, experiment, and over time, many things will become clearer.

So it turns out that there is a discussion on baits, but no one can say anything about the seasonality of ground beetle traps, or does not want to

It is better to start fishing the steppe from the end of April . Forest areas-from mid-May.But everything is very relative.

as it seems to me, summer time is bolesh for megodontuses, morphokarabuses, Karabus S. p. Springtime for such species as bessarabicus (they seem to give one generation) Spring with autumn - glabratus, Pachystus, Procerus.. Something like..
We have forests-convexus, excellens, canciatus, ulrichi, coriaceus, etc., steppes-besseri, scabriusculus.. bogs - granulatus..
however, anything can get caught anywhere!!!!!! This should not be forgotten and therefore it is necessary to put everywhere and a lot.

We have a dead season in the region - July: species with the spring peak of reproduction have already moved away, and with the autumn one they have not yet hatched from pupae. Although there are exceptions here... In general, in my opinion, there are 2 main fishing seasons: In spring and early summer, it is better to catch species that mate and lay eggs in spring (canyatus, menetriyoshi, nitens), and from mid-August to the end of September, species with the autumn peak of reproduction (hortensis, glabratus) are caught. Although, as I have already written, there are many exceptions to these rules, imago carabuses can live for a long time, experiencing their season, although such old men are often worn out by life and do not represent much collection interest.

as it seems to me, summer time is bolesh for megodontuses, morphokarabuses, Karabus S. p. Springtime for such species as bessarabicus (they seem to give one generation) Spring with autumn - glabratus, Pachystus, Procerus.. Something like..
We have forests-convexus, excellens, canciatus, ulrichi, coriaceus, etc., steppes-besseri, scabriusculus.. bogs - granulatus..
however, anything can get caught anywhere!!!!!! This should not be forgotten and therefore it is necessary to put everywhere and a lot.

I am very impressed with your latest report on traps. Share the recipe for cooking sivukha.

a bag of yeast for 3 liters of warm water + sugar a couple of tablespoons and a teaspoon of salt. +fermentation night.
in general, I have already written to technigu many times, but I learned from Dorkadion, for which he has respect!

a bag of yeast for 3 liters of warm water + sugar a couple of tablespoons and a teaspoon of salt. +fermentation night.
in general, I have already written to technigu many times, and I learned from Dorkadion, for which respect is due to him!

That is, no plant material is needed? And what kind of yeast, dry or pressed?

plant material? No, if you don't need grass, then go back to the topic about mermaids
Yeast of any kind - both packaged bulk and fresh are equally suitable perfectly.

Please share your experience. What fixing (preserving) liquid is better to use in soil traps if they are checked every 20 days (salt solution, 5% formalin or something else). Thank you in advance.

I have been using the following composition for many years for soil traps (AGO):

60% of the volume: ethyl alcohol 70%: (you can, if not, replace with vodka, moonshine);
20% - acetic acid (ocet) 70%; 20% - glycerin (preferably thick, undiluted) Mix the mixture well, shake it before use.

The effect of the first two components is clear. Glycerin provides the following: 1).accelerates freezing (clogs the respiratory pores), even when alcohol and vinegar are completely exhausted; 2).slows down the evaporation of alcohol and vinegar, as well as the weathering of their smell; 3).envelops the material, does not allow mold to develop; 4).slows down rotting, because it is heavier and gradually settles at the bottom of the trap, dragging most of the material with it, where it is "preserved" almost without air access; 5).preserves the "waxy softness" of the material when it is removed, as well as some plasticity of the joints even in the collection after several years (while maintaining the given shape), reducing the risk of breakdowns; 6) quickly discourages animals who want to profit from the contents of the trap (strong laxative !)
7).eliminates the need to add/replace the mixture every few days; 8).allows you to dramatically increase the exposure and check traps after a few weeks/months (I specifically left them for up to 4-5 months - almost everything in the lower, glycerol layer turned out to be in good condition).

In addition, glycerin does not require special removal, because gradually, however, it evaporates (well, maybe squeeze on a napkin); hairs and bristles of carabid, staphylinid and scarabeid do not suffer. Sold freely in pharmacies.

The above ratio of components is approximate and can be changed. For example, if it is known that a long/ultra-long exposure will be required, it makes sense to increase the proportion of glycerol. Naturally, the amount of mixture in the trap is also the same (in such cases, I pour up to 1/3 of the height).

According to Dorcadion, in Siberia, karabuses are quite good for beer, and salt is used for preservation. According to Zamotailov, in the Caucasus, sauces are better suited to vinegar, which is a preservative (10% r-r and a little salt), and beer is much worse. Although I doubt that the beer just doesn't live up to the traps

interesting as a brew.. On it I have everywhere the best goes )
in kachesvte canned food-salt.. But probably you can also pour glycerin.

WHAT IS BETTER IN CRIMEA

everything goes to brazhku everywhere the cheapest fastest and most convenient option)

WHAT IS BETTER IN CRIMEA?

I used a lot of things in the Crimea for soil baits. From canned sprats and tulki in tomato sauce to beer, vinegar and AGO mix (see just above). Everything goes well, but after canned fish, the carabuses are very dirty, oiled (but there are a lot of staphylins and sylphs) and you need to choose in the next 2-3 days, otherwise everything will rot. The cleanest and longest-lasting material in AGO.

This post was edited by Aaata - 18.04.2009 18: 37

In general, it is not clear why, for example, in the Crimea they should go for something better, and in the Caucasus they should either go for something worse, or prefer something else. Collected on soil traps with baits in all these regions and did not notice much difference. (probably because I don't drink beer )