Insects fumigating

It is ridiculous to start a debate about the better way to kill an insect.They spread the damn spores, whose chemical is better...In extreme cases-smother with your fingers!(it concerns butterflies).

Taler You are wrong. In disputes are born not only mushrooms but also the truth!
Sharing your experience is very important.

Yes, of course...But somehow to impose this or that preporat on a person,and he has been used to doing his own for years, is not quite serious.We've already got to the specific poisons that will kill a little man, not just a bug.I don't say anything about cyanide.

Yes, of course...But somehow to impose this or that preporat on a person,and he has been used to doing his own for years, is not quite serious.We've already got to the specific poisons that will kill a little man, not just a bug.I don't say anything about cyanide.

Yes, it is clear that if an insect is simply nailed to the wall, then you can smoke it in the stain...
But if you work with the material, then this is a matter of principle and a lot of people do not know how to properly destroy the object.

For several years, I used the old and proven method to avoid the use of staining: insects are pricked on pins immediately after they are caught.
By the way, this method was used by most classics of the 18th and first half of the 19th centuries.

{I used to do this at first, too - but when my weevils (and they are the most tenacious of beetles by morale) moved impaled for weeks , I began to think about humanity. And I didn't really want to wait for a long time }
Sorry, I didn't log in right away.

Friends, I do not put such a problem as stain and poison.
Why argue?
For example, the requirements for the container are standard: tightness, resistance to reagents, suitable dimensions.
Poisons. There is nothing unambiguous and can not be. Different insects - different poisons.
If a large moth on the screen is ammonia, you can also put it in an ethyl acetate stain with a small amount of poison and immobilize it, then add it.
If there is a moth or some other trifle , then cyanide in gypsum is optimal. Dry, fast, and atraumatic. Especially - a green moth or other green butterfly.
Pestrianka (Zygaena) in cyanide will not die, it is better, of course, ethyl acetate.
For those who don't have ethyl acetate, check the hardware store for a solvent based on it or based on butyl acetate.
If the poison does not work, as in the case of weevils. If possible, then put it in the freezer.
The most important thing is that the copy does not deteriorate after contact with poison. After all, it will be a pity for you and you will not exchange it later.

insects are pricked on pins immediately after they are caught.

And if you do not prick them, but stick them on dies, then the beetles will live for months.

If the poison does not work, as in the case of weevils. If possible, then put it in the freezer.

In my experience, the freezer has almost no effect on some weevils.

In my experience, the freezer has almost no effect on some weevils.

try the thermostat (+65) or the oven
And ethyl acetate grobt everything indiscriminately and weevils are no exception. As for their survivability, it is not for nothing that they are used as an indicator of the quality of fumigation in elevators and holds.

In my experience, the freezer has almost no effect on some weevils.

It depends on what time it is.

And how much time will it take to kill an ordinary cabbage in ethyl acetate?

Worked with various volatile substances. Initially with diethyl ether - too reactive. Then with ethyl acetate - the best option. I dabbled with chloroform - something in between, it has a T kip. higher than ethyl acetate. A friend at one time stubbornly starved dichlorvos-he said it was very convenient. Then he had to "re-catch" a lot of insects... But there is still a question - who to starve. If you have dolgash, or bark beetles - here you need to work powerfully, so that later they are not chosen from cotton wool for peremarivanie. And in some groups, you need to look at the internal structure of the edeagus sac - here you need a soft mode. I think an hour and a half will be enough for cabbage soup.

Cabbage is steamed in alcohol for 20 minutes. Well, for 30 exactly!

In the hands of compresses in half a second.

RippeR - +1!

Once there was a mention that sawdust is impregnated with ethyl acetate, which is placed in a stain, beetles are thrown there, and in this form they can be stored for a long time without losing flexibility. The question is-any sawdust or only hardwoods?

In general, it makes little sense to starve daytime butterflies.. clicked and done)

In general, it makes little sense to starve daytime butterflies.. clicked and done)

.. and the butterfly can stay alive for up to several days, which makes it possible to get to the stationary straightener and not suffer from soaking. Night, by the way, can also be pressed down.

Well, they are usually fat moths with fluffy breasts... push down the fluff will fly off. I usually inject them with something that puts them in a coma instantly.

Once there was a mention that sawdust is impregnated with ethyl acetate, which is placed in a stain, beetles are thrown there, and in this form they can be stored for a long time without losing flexibility. The question is-any sawdust or only hardwoods?

Sawdust of hardwoods, because softwood sawdust contains resin. And best of all, cork crumbs.

best of all finely chopped foam or plastic A very beautiful jelly is obtained

It turns out that not only chemistry can be used to freeze, but also gas!
Here, at the Polish comrades ' house,
http://www.entomo.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=289
I read an unusual technique. For those who don't read Polish, I'll give you a translation below. I translate as much as possible verbatim:
------------------
The propane-butane can consists of the following elements: a can, a screw-down lid, a rubber gasket on the inner surface of the lid is used to seal the can, a bicycle nipple mounted in the lid from the can, so, so that when the jar is closed, it protrudes out, well, all this is airtight. The bottom of the jar can be laid out with a sponge, it keeps the cold and soft quite well. The main thing is to let a portion of gas from a canister for refueling lighters - such as those sold at kiosks-into the jar through this nipple. Their standard end is perfect for a bicycle nipple. Well, maybe not perfect, but it fits.
The carbonation procedure is as follows: just take the butterfly in the jar from the screen, close the lid tightly so that it is airtight, and then fill the jar with gas, as if you were filling a lighter. Of course, without exaggeration - a one-time portion of gas directly on the butterfly-so somewhere around a second. Effect: if it hits directly on the butterfly, it will become wet in the same second. From gas. Gas in the liquid state. I can't really remember what the temperature of the liquid gas is-100 degrees in my opinion. At the moment when we spray gas on the butterfly for about a second, it becomes a butterfly-instantly frozen. After a second, he doesn't move. There are none that are not affected by this - you need to give a little more to the hawk moth, but the effect is the same. They become frozen like Santa Claus. After opening the jar, a little frost appears... but do not worry, the gas quickly disappears leaving a clean butterfly. Sometimes some people move a little more after that - a small correction settles the matter. The positive thing is that in such a jar there is no damage to the butterfly - this is the most technical of all possible. And a very important thing is that this technique does not require keeping a butterfly in this very jar, in which we place another one - when applying a portion of gas, we keep the client there for at most a minute, so that he freezes through, and then open the jar, wait until the butterfly freezes from the bottom and the gas evaporates from it, and transfer the butterfly - on cotton wool, it is also not damaged.
If someone would improve this, would be very grateful for suggestions regarding this.

This is how much gas you need to spend, and time for a hundred butterflies? Although, undoubtedly, the material should turn out perfect

This is how much gas you need to spend, and time for a hundred butterflies? Although, of course, the material should be perfect

I think that it can be optimized.

First, take the smallest hermetically sealed glass jar available on the market. I've personally seen about 50 ml. Or maybe from pharmacies to pick up something, pharmacies are even smaller.
Secondly, stock up on five or maybe twenty-five such jars. Not necessarily with converted lids, because you can only prepare jars, and one lid is enough.
Third, you can put several butterflies in one jar at the same time.

This will save both time and gas.

update

Why did I ask - everyone spends 5 minutes in alcohol during the day! Only once the vinegar lay for 10 minutes! In theory, alcohol is better IMHO kanesh!

Why did I ask - everyone spends 5 minutes in alcohol during the day! Only once the vinegar lay for 10 minutes! In theory, alcohol is better IMHO kanesh!

Hm... I personally have never tried alcohol. But it seems that somewhere here on the forum they wrote that alcohol does not work on butterflies...?
Something is wrong here, otherwise why do people bother with ethyl acetate?

As far as I understand, this is due to the fact that after alcohol butterflies become stale.... But if they are spread out within ~ 24 hours after morki, then IMHO everything will be OK! There's no catch here! I love butterflies so much for 3 years now! About beetles XS!

I used alcohol when I forgot to take ethyl acetate. Alcohol dries the insect very much, after it it was difficult for me personally to straighten it. But the material contaminated with ethyl acetate remains soft for a very long time, especially in the stain. So the choice is yours.

Well...
All the moderators were scared! )))
I want to ask you something...
How you collect... Well, small FLUFFY scoop for example!!!
There are ways to kill so as not to spoil???
Or does everything come with experience so to speak???

I usually cover all the moths with a 0.7-1 liter jar and while the butterfly, having taken off, is looking for a way out of it, I close the neck with my palm, transfer it to the stain (2-3-liter jar), where I release the copy. Thus, the butterfly is not padded or damaged. Moreover, this way you can quickly catch the butterflies that have arrived.

previous message is mine.

to Konung:
I did this...
Someone even advised me to cover it with an opaque container... Like they're so much calmer... All exactly fluff and "HORNS" rarely remain in place...

Well...
All the moderators were scared! )))
I want to ask you something...
How you collect... Well, small FLUFFY scoop for example!!!
There are ways to kill so as not to spoil???
Or does everything come with experience so to speak???

The king is doing the right thing.
You can also cover it with the stain itself. I have a can of baby food adapted for the stain, a piece of felt fitted to the size is inserted into the lid from the inside. The advantage of felt is that it holds moisture well.
In short, a butterfly sat down (not necessarily a scoop, delicate thin moth and micra are also better to catch), cover it with a stain and try to raise the bottom of the stain up so that the butterfly does not jump out. Quickly close the lid. Next, we wait for the butterfly to become immobile. After that, it can be removed from the stain and pricked with ammonia and placed in a box or on a mattress.

to americanecz: Than morim?

In a stain with ethyl acetate... There's still deha left...
I poke fun with a 10% ammonia solution from the pharmacy...

Yes, large butterflies sitting quietly on the screen can be pinned immediately in the pronotum. Then ammonia.

Well, we are not talking about large ones now...
There are no problems with them just...
Or a pin... Or if the syringe is fresh, you can use it...

When fishing near the screen, I use a regular jar with a screw-down lid as a stain (for example, those from under canned cucumbers that have a wider bottom). It is convenient that you can always buy at the place where you arrived. Get some food, too.
At the bottom I put a dense circle of cotton wool cut out along the bottom of the jar. Then I cut out a circle from whatman or non-thick cardboard, again according to the diameter of the jar (so as not to hang out freely in it), and attach a thick cotton wool cut out according to the diameter of the circle to this circle with a stapler.
In the bank it turns out: below is cotton wool, on which I pour ethyl acetate; then a partition made of watman, and on top again cotton wool. What is convenient: butterflies do not get wet, because ethyl acetate in the worst case slightly impregnates the watman, and the top layer of cotton wool does not get wet. And butterflies, when they get into the jar, do not burrow into all the "cracks". And when adding ethyl acetate, the top layer of cotton wool is simply lifted with tweezers along with a circle of whatman paper, and ethyl acetate is added.
When removing the butterfly from the screen, I open the lid slightly and push the butterfly inside (I drive it from the net into the stain in the same way). At the same time, I do the same with large ones (for example, C. fraxini). I don't touch anyone with my hands, even through the gauze net.

The butterfly, once in a jar that has free space, usually runs along the walls until it falls asleep, and does not crawl between the layers of newspaper and tual.. papers that many people use to fill the staining space. Therefore, usually the butterfly retains a decent appearance (although there are always exceptions).
Then I will definitely finish everyone off with ammonia.
At the same time, up to a dozen butterflies are collected in the stain (although I try not to bring them to a large pile). I try to make all this construction in such a way that when the can is turned upside down, only butterflies would fall out, and not all of them together.
Tufts and backs usually suffer when transported on "layers" with too dense packaging.