Insects fumigating

What kind of stains? For most beetles, really probika with alcohol is suitable. And for butterflies-ether (ethyl acetate), chloroform, cyanide, gasoline at the very least. Instead of ether, you can use almost any solvent, nail polish remover, or acetone.
And if you find "pure alcohol", well, at least 90 percent - you will be very lucky!

This post was edited by Nilson - 05/12/2006 08: 26

Well, I won't have any problems with pure alcohol! 50 two-liter bottles are worth it!
It's a butterfly stain.

This post was edited by Tyomochin - 05/12/2006 16: 39

The best household steamer after ethyl acetate is "Triple Cologne". You won't believe it, but he just saved me in the Caucasus when my bottle of ether broke. It doesn't evaporate so quickly, but it doesn't change color (I can't vouch for all the types, of course, but I checked on all the main units, on many types). It is especially effective for straight-winged birds, and sometimes acts even faster on locusts than ethyl acetate. With storage, again, there are no problems. And available.

Try solvent #647. Light smell, the base, if I'm not mistaken-butyl acetate, does not tan, does not change color (except for green moths).
Personally tested in comparison with solvents of other numbers.

Try chloroform or carbon tetrachloride. Light, pleasant smell, not dangerous to health, etc. Personally tested.

Try chloroform or carbon tetrachloride. Light, pleasant smell, not dangerous to health, etc. Personally tested.

It's pretty hard to get hold of.

I found an interesting way to make poison for stains and traps from paraffin impregnated with ethyl acetate http://www.astro.helsinki.fi/~kahanpaa/wax/
the entire cycle is illustrated here

This post was edited by Proctos - 27.05.2006 17: 44

Pictures:
  wax.jpg — (29.95к) 27.05.2006 — 10.06.2006

Dichloroethane. What do you think about using it in staining? The smell is pleasant, quite poisonous for animals, and it is sold freely here..

Does it have to have tires? Or not?

The Proctos image suggested some thoughts: if you take ethyl acetate, melt waxes and put such a liquid on the bottom of the stain - how much will such a stain hold (permanent opening and closing) and how quickly will it kill insects? Otherwise, if you throw a lot of insects, they can break off their legs and tendrils until they suffocate.. ethyl acetate itself acts quickly, but it does not last long - it quickly erodes

What kind of stains? For most beetles, really probika with alcohol is suitable. And for butterflies-ether (ethyl acetate), chloroform, cyanide, gasoline at the very least. Instead of ether, you can use almost any solvent, nail polish remover, or acetone.
And if you find "pure alcohol", well, at least 90 percent - you will be very lucky!

I mainly collect fairly large diptera, so my technique is not useful for everyone. Matchbox-fareva! Does not get wet, light, etc. Info can be written directly on it (what's inside). I also put the flowers of the plants on which the etc instance is collected there. Then-in a brand-new (without holes) plastic bag (the cheapest, you can take a lot with you). In the same place-cotton wool with acetone. You can just splash it if there is no cotton wool. All. This is the lightest stain in the world :- ) Polyethylene acetone does not pass through. Then the boxes are taken out, the material lies neatly in them, dead, according to the ranking. We take it out and immediately prick it, because mattresses for diptera are contraindicated. The method is orphan, but concise.

Does acetone not corrode polyethylene?

Does acetone not corrode polyethylene?

No.

And what do you do with the info on the box?
Does acetone not dissolve inscriptions with a simple pen?

a pencil will do better. You can take a small "core", in the field it is more convenient.

I have another method: I take an elongated jar, put the paper chopped with a potato there, put beetles and spray ~ 0.2-0.3 ml of ethyl acetate there. When hiking between different points, you can periodically dump them on mattresses.

And what do you do with the info on the box?
Does acetone not dissolve inscriptions with a simple pen?

The fact is that I labeled my boxes a long time ago, I covered them with all sorts of different numbers and letters, such as "K-2", "346", "SBU", etc. Because of the acetone on the cardboard, the letters are slightly blurred, but only if you splash acetone directly on them : -), of course they don't make any significant difference. Pencil (graphite), of course, is as stable as possible (see" Kolyma stories " by Shalamov), but it draws poorly, and it is not visible as well as ordinary ink. The labels are applied randomly, but once and for all. Therefore, in the field diary, only the number (code) of the box is entered with the characteristics of the area, altitude of the n.o. m., biotope, pollinated plant, etc., and on the temporary label I write only the number. Temporary labels are replaced during on-site processing. I think so many people do. Stains with a pile of material in bulk - this is another matter. This is already an exhausterwork.

By the way, about soaking - if suddenly there was no chloroform or ethyl acetate in the field, you can use bird cherry leaves - they contain cyanides in a fairly high concentration. If you knead a few leaves and throw them in the stain, the nosegays will quickly get soaked.

Ethyl acetate, for example, makes straight-winged birds turn red like crayfish. And in general, this is not a drug, but a poison. Dichloroethane is easy to buy at any radio market or radio goods store in Moscow. And if you can use it with caution for soaking insects, then it is highly not recommended for gluing plexiglass cages without an extractor hood. Dichloroethane poisoning can cause damage to the eyes, kidneys, liver, rectal cancer and other "charms". It turns out that chloroform and carbon tetrachloride can be obtained here:
http://www.chimmed.ru/catalogue/?reactives
But the minimum packing is 1.6 kg and there seems to be a limit on the minimum order amount. In addition, you need an application from the organization and a certificate from the drug dispensary stating that you are not registered. But they perfectly dissolve plexiglass and work with them easily and pleasantly 8)

I wonder if you can throw mothballs in the jar and throw insects?

I wonder if you can throw mothballs in the jar and throw insects?

But nothing
Naphthalene - "reppelent, not insecticide"(c) someone here on the forum

I wonder if you can throw mothballs in the jar and throw insects?

In general, in the absence of everything else, you can also use naphthalene. But it's a very long wait, of course. For butterflies, of course, will not work. I've sometimes used it for small beetles that take a long time to carry around. In general, I don't recommend it.

I was just joking, there's no need to start a debate about

Thank you to everyone who answered! I tried out alcohol. Everything is cool, except that it takes 5-10 minutes to catch butterflies! And so it goes

People! Carbon tetrachloride, just like dichloroethane and chloroform, is a dangerous thing. CHU and dichloroethane are toxic in themselves, and phosgene is added to chloroform when standing, especially in the light and with water. He is unpleasant, this phosgene :-)

In general, I don't see any problem in more or less large cities to find everything you want. A lot of offices sell reagents, and buying ethyl acetate or something else for cash should not cause much difficulty.

Ethyl acetate is not very toxic, but from chloroform I once really got sick, disassembling an insufficiently ventilated light trap (the smell was weak-weak).
IMHO, ethyl acetate is good for butterflies: the insects they kill are soft, easily soaked and straightened. Chloroform makes them stiff; in addition, they usually die in a state of convulsions, like milks from striznin: the wings bend down, the belly of the shovel is lifted up... It's hard to straighten it out later. But soaking with chloroform is very fast, so it is indispensable for a light trap: butterflies immediately fall and do not fight. Alcohol has a bad feature: tendency to form condensation in the stain. And the best replacement for ethyl acetate is IMHO acetone.

chloroform when standing, especially in the light and with water gives phosgene. He is unpleasant, this phosgene :-)

Ugh! Is that true?
In the last year I bought some g***yuchiy chloroform: he woolen wicks in svetolovushka corroded... Just like old chloroform. So what is it, is there an admixture of phosgene in it?!
Now the leftovers are in the toilet in a dark bottle, with a rubber glove on top of the bottle... by the way, everything turned black, I was going to replace it here. Or maybe, since this is the case, throw it out?

This post was edited by Helene - 06/28/2006 14: 32

Ugh! Is that true?

The absolute truth! :-). As a chemist I tell you (and here is the link to the topic http://www.ezi.ru/1/86/851.htm). It still has a nasty smell, and it becomes yellowish in color. Once you sniff it, you will never forget :-) On the other hand, it is unlikely that you will be seriously poisoned with such phosgene.

Helene, throw it out of harm's way, it's still a combat weapon...

Try chloroform or carbon tetrachloride. Light, pleasant smell, not dangerous to health, etc. Personally tested.

Caution!!!
Eel tetrachloride is very toxic. Don't even sniff it.

Good sulfur ether, as it does not change the color of the pigments. But it is very volatile and not convenient at high temperatures (it can even break the bottle if it is made of glass. Therefore, you should never fill the container under the throat).

As for chloroform, it is more convenient than sulfur ether, since it is not so volatile. But it has its drawbacks. Rubber and even polyethylene gaskets and covers of stains or exhusters can swell. Even worse, the joints of the legs and wings are often tanned until it is impossible to straighten the insect removed from the stain, and some pigments (for example, yellow) can change color from orange to red depending on the time of soaking.

Butyl-or amyl acetate (also known as pear essence) is a slightly evaporating liquid with a pleasant smell of Duchess sweets (by the way, this is what they smell like). It is most convenient for collecting beetles in " wet " stains (a bubble filled with sawdust soaked in a fixative). Plus-maintaining or even increasing the mobility of the joints, regardless of the time of soaking (as long as it does not completely evaporate). The more readily available ethyl acetate has a sharper smell and greater volatility. But it's also quite suitable.

Ideal in all respects (excluding safety) - potassium cyanide. Convenient and very durable - one charge of the stain can last for a couple of years (if it is closed). Actually, it is not he who is blighting, but the released hydrocyanic acid and ammonia. However, sometimes with excessive humidity in the stain, too high a concentration of ammonia can play a bad joke - yellow colors will turn reddish.

All this has been proven over decades of practice. Other substances, including alcohol, gasoline, benzene, and various technical solvents, are only used as a last resort.

By the way, collecting alcohol also has its own nuances. Do not use "pure", i.e. 95-96% alcohol, everything will be irrevocably tanned, and soft tissues will shrink sharply. It is best to use a 70% solution of ethyl alcohol, and for soft objects, it does not hurt to add a little glycerin. During subsequent disassembly, everything assembled will have to be carried out through absolute alcohol and acetone or xylene to remove water and degrease (if there are no special preparations).

I found an interesting way to make poison for stains and traps from paraffin impregnated with ethyl acetate http://www.astro.helsinki.fi/~kahanpaa/wax/
the entire cycle is illustrated here

There is another simple way to get rid of the constant dripping of poison in the stain.
The usual rubber stopper from the penicillin bubble is thrown into the chloroform. After an hour or two, it swells strongly there, saturating the liquid. This cork is pinned with a thick pin or a nail with a polyethylene washer (so that it does not come off, as the swollen cork becomes very soft) to the inner side of the cork plug of the stain, which is useful to fill with "harmonicas" from filter paper.
Just enough to do, but enough for a day even in the heat.

I last year perfectly zamarivala solution of ammonia, but not "pharmacy", and a lot more concentrated, I do not know the concentration. But everything was soiled perfectly and the color did not change. Now it's over. and where to get it, I don't know

I last year perfectly zamarivala solution of ammonia, but not "pharmacy", and a lot more concentrated, I do not know the concentration. But everything was soiled perfectly and the color did not change. Now it's over. I don't know where to get it

I used to use ammonia, but now I don't. Once I have chervonets L. dispar completely discolored...

For all those who have problems with the purchase or transportation (now in airplanes, control over the transported liquids is strengthened) of all kinds of substances for soaking, I can recommend the NAIL POLISH REMOVER tested in the past season (from women's nails, of course). This is such a mixture of ethyl acetate and all sorts of emollient additives of pale pink color. It works gently, does not tanned joints and does not break the color. And it costs a penny in almost any perfume or cosmetics department.

What about Morit? All right?

Normally, I used it all summer instead of ethyl acetate. When exposed to the wings of butterflies, the color of the latter does not change after drying.

Almost all collectors of the late 19th and early 20th centuries were poisoned with castati cyanides. Everything in the ZINE of this time was killed by them. But chemistry does not stand still!
Better ethyl acetate (for beetles, at least) there is nothing!
Many reagents kill, but you also need to MOUNT the killed animal.
Have you ever encountered a problem of this kind: we soaked the winter material collected in the summer, we are going to stick it on the dies and the legs do not bend as they should. My muscles are stiff! And the genitals to prepare and endophallus inflate?
So ethyl acetate kills and makes the material flexible - and the limbs bend and the endophallus is blown out. By the way, it is better to put a morilochka in your sleeping bag in the field at night - in the heat so that the material is there. And it costs very reasonably-3 years ago I gave about 30 US rubles for a liter of BDA Ethyl Acetate - and now I have more than half of this stuff left!

You can make an injection of ammonia and the result is instant.

!
Better than ethyl acetate (for beetles, at least) there is nothing!
Many reagents kill, but you also need to MOUNT the killed animal.

I wholeheartedly agree that working on genitals with 19th-century Zinovite beetles is sheer hard labor. Yes, modern "cyanide tanks" are no better..

Hi!

Normally, I used it all summer instead of ethyl acetate. When exposed to the wings of butterflies, the color of the latter does not change after drying.

A "normal" nail polish remover is ethyl acetate+dye.
Not normal: the same + more acetone.
So there is nothing surprising in this.