Insects fumigating

no, it does not spoil because chitin, like plastic, has the property of preserving its shape.The main thing is not to overdo it, in a prative case, you risk leaving all the contents of the butterfly on the shelf

Plastic??? You're gutting the wrong chava. It depends on where. Chest yes, there is a strong chitin in butterflies, and especially in beetles (yes, actually beetles are always stuffed in the right elytra, as we all know). But the belly of butterflies is a very capricious thing. For example, in moths, the abdomen sometimes dries up very much when spreading.

This post was edited by Dr. Niko - 05/20/2010 16: 48

So I'm talking about thorax, don't push your belly

And it always seemed to me that when squeezing a good quality material does not work...

looking at how to squeeze, with opyvtom and trichopteryxov learned to straighten

That's where the question crept up. In recent days, at one of our dipter teleconferences (sorry for the outdated term), the inapplicability of ethyl acetate for soaking murmur flies is discussed - it is said to "eat out" the yellow color. I can't decide for myself - for the last 15 years I've been smearing it with acetone, for the last year or two with ethyl acetate, but I haven't really looked closely myself. Yes, and the groups that I work with-without a pronounced clear "babbling" color (black and yellow stripes). Who has any observations? Does ethyl acetate change the color of insects (and if so, which groups)?

Good evening.
Tell me, colleagues, whether it is possible to mordicate pereponov (os) with ethyl acetate. (I read the topic, but didn't find anything about it).
I always used to use tetrachloride, but now the healing spring has dried up.
Thank you.

Personally, I recommend EA to everyone except lepidoptera, and then only because I don't catch them, so far no one has complained. You can safely starve the EA OS, nothing will happen to them

Dear friends, I ask for your help and advice. I haven't caught butterflies before, I don't have any experience. The problem is as follows. When I take it out of the stain, the butterflies already look like this (see photo). The back is worn. How do you deal with this and what am I doing wrong? Stain - a coffee jar with a tight lid, cotton pads soaked in nail polish remover and a couple of pieces of soft paper at the bottom. After 10-15 minutes, I try to take out the butterflies, their appearance is already spoiled, to put it mildly. Tell me, how to properly starve? Or is the problem something else?

Pictures:

34.JPG — (61.85к)

Dear friends, I ask for your help and advice. I haven't caught butterflies before, I don't have any experience. The problem is as follows. When I take it out of the stain, the butterflies already look like this (see photo). The back is worn. How do you deal with this and what am I doing wrong? Stain - a coffee jar with a tight lid, cotton pads soaked in nail polish remover and a couple of pieces of soft paper at the bottom. After 10-15 minutes, I try to take out the butterflies, their appearance is already spoiled, to put it mildly. Tell me, how to properly starve? Or is the problem something else?

One stain - one butterfly. there shouldn't be anything in the stain. It is advisable to attach the soporific liquid to the lid.

One stain - one butterfly.

how many stains do you need at night?? Let's say I have an average catch of about 400 butterflies (including micros) in one night... As a stain, it is better to use 3-4 two-or three-liter cans with crumpled strips of paper inside (filter paper, napkins, toilet paper, newspapers in the end). As a soaking liquid, it is advisable to use something fast-acting-ether, pure ethyl acetate. Then the butterflies won't get hurt. It is better not to starve large ones, but immediately prick them with ammonia from a syringe in the chest.

3-4 pieces if using chloroform, and 5-6 if using ethyl acetate. Small size stains 200-500 ml. After euthanasia, the butterfly is placed in a large stain or pricked with ammonia and tattooed.

In continuation of the topic photo stains. I also use the following ones:



Macon coffee stain. Very convenient in the lid is cut out a small hole and stuffed to capacity with cotton wool.



Another photo of the stain...

This post was edited by Black Coleopter-03.07.2010 22: 07

I usually work with diaries, and I don't use stains.
But what about the hawk moth, you can't do without staining right there?

Butterflies with a thick belly are soaked by injection with ammonia.

Where do I get it? Was there something handy in mind

He killed a hawk moth with gasoline. It seems to have turned out quite well, the color did not change, the truth is a little harsh, but it's even more convenient!

Where do I get it? Was there something handy in mind

At any pharmacy, without a prescription (an aqueous solution of ammonia is)

OK, we'll buy it later. Is it suitable for daytime use? And then some tenacious pancake, move on raspavilkah..

OK, we'll buy it later. Is it suitable for daytime use? And then some tenacious pancake, move on raspavilkah..

Of course it will. Although daytime ones are best killed by squeezing the breast.

OK, we'll buy it later. Is it suitable for daytime use? And then some tenacious pancake, move on raspavilkah..

Suitable, just prick carefully and take an insulin syringe (single-tube, thin and with a thin needle)

Of course it will. Although daytime ones are best killed by squeezing the breast.

Well, I would say this is not for everyone such a focus passes. For large admirals, swallowtails, etc. squeezing blocks them for 10 minutes, then they crawl and break out of the hands quite strongly. Recompressing doesn't help.

I think it's unnecessary to prick diaries, it's easier to make a stain.

For soaking butterflies, you can use a combined version.
Briefly in a chloroform stain. Butterflies quickly become immobilized and, accordingly, rub much less.
Then in a container with ethyl acetate.
If you overexpose the fees in chloroform, the muscles "tan" and then there are problems when straightening (especially small things).

Guys, tell me what the problem is.

I washed a huge bindweed hawk moth in a gasoline stain, and it was so persistent that I had to keep it there for 45 minutes. Except that his whole belly and hind wings are swollen with fat. Because of what?

The bindweed hawk moth should not have been doused with gasoline at all.Only ethyl acetate or ammonia solution should be used for this purpose.
Such a large hawk moth as a bindweed,I generally would not recommend to mortize in a molrilka.You just need to stab him in the chest with a syringe drop of ammonia solution (sold in pharmacies).The hawk moth will die instantly, without any scuffs or other damage.

After gasoline, you can hardly straighten it out.Gasoline very much hardens the body of a butterfly.In fact, she got fat from the fact that you starved her with gasoline.

Nooo, there was nothing else at hand. Yes, and the wine hawk moth suffered such a stain perfectly! I didn't know that there would be such problems with this.

"Such a large hawk moth as the bindweed,I generally would not recommend to starve in a molrilka.You just need to stab him in the chest with a syringe drop of ammonia solution (sold in pharmacies).The hawk moth will die instantly, without any scuffs or other damage."

And he already died without injuries (except for obesity). And I don't know about you, but it's a little scary to look at such a monster, and even to take it in my hands, I'm afraid of such a strong and big one. How to prick it?

Very simple.I just took a hypodermic needle and gave it a shot.But you shouldn't be afraid of him.No matter how strong and scary it may seem, the bindweed hawk moth is a gentle and harmless creature.

It's not that simple. He's in the bank. Maybe I can prick through the net, but for some reason I can't overcome my fear. My hands are shaking terribly, and my heart is breaking out. I like hawkmoth very much, but I can't get in touch with them with my hands, but it's a matter of time, I'll get used to it.

"But you shouldn't be afraid of him.No matter how strong and scary it may seem, the bindweed hawk moth is a gentle and harmless creature. "

Yes, the fear is almost meaningless. I'm probably afraid that it will fly out of my hands.
And everyone to whom I showed this butterfly - shied away in horror

It's not that simple. He's in the bank. Maybe I can prick through the net, but for some reason I can't overcome my fear. My hands are shaking terribly, and my heart is breaking out. I like hawkmoth very much, but I can't get in touch with them with my hands, but it's a matter of time, I'll get used to it.

"But you shouldn't be afraid of him.No matter how strong and scary it may seem, the bindweed hawk moth is a gentle and harmless creature. "

Yes, the fear is almost meaningless. I'm probably afraid that it will fly out of my hands.
And everyone to whom I showed this butterfly-shied away in horror

God! Well, how much can I do? Single-tube syringe, 10% ammonia solution, one injection... The price of the issue is a penny, everything you need is in the nearest pharmacy. No problems at all. All this has been written here for a long time and it is not clear why the rest of the flame? Catch a butterfly with a net, press it down, make an injection of ammonia... Everything, no one moves, put in a bag (day) or on the mattress(night). Then straighten it out.

I've never worked on diaries (only miscellaneous ones). Guys, can you tell me how to kill small gentle bulavousyh-fatheads, pigeons, small nymphalids, etc. Does it make sense to first podmarivat, and then tease? Don't hurt me -- I didn't find any similar information, chesna-chesna

he pinned down all the pigeons ' breasts with his fingers.

Dear forumchane!
I have a dilettante question. If in the absence of ethyl acetate,
kill the beetles with cold, i.e. put them in the freezer for 3-4 hours.
How this will affect further soaking and straightening.
(this may have already been discussed, but I didn't find it on the forum)
Thank you in advance.

according to the idea in any way, in my opinion it is even easier to prick them until they are thawed out, since the shape is stable and does not push through, but sometimes it reduces the ligaments and spreading the paws causes trouble.
Otherwise, everything is fine...Oh, yes! the main disadvantage is to bring insects but at home unharmed and in containers and not on yourself

That's not what I meant. I meant that after freezing, postpone the beetles for an indefinite period (on mattresses) and spread them out in six months or a year. An "authoritative person" told me that too much (even an extra 2-3 drops of ethyl acetate) makes soaking difficult and makes straightening impossible. As they are told, ethyl acetate (or other poison) should be enough to make the beetle die slowly, within 2-3 days, then it can persist for quite a long time and then easily soaked. The cold, like too much ethyl acetate, kills quite quickly, and this affects the processing of beetles in the future.
If anyone noticed, indeed, after killing the beetles, rigor mortis occurs and straightening is difficult, and the next day or two days later the legs unbend without problems. Maybe something didn't reach me (because of the Babilon translation), but I realized that the "face" was trying to explain to me that if the beetle dies slowly, it will pass the stage of rigor mortis. It's a bit of a mess. Is it possible?

Went to the forum as a guest. I forgot that the computer. rebooted, did not notice, apologies

Went to the forum as a guest. I forgot that the computer. rebooted, did not notice, I apologize

Freezing alive is undesirable. The beetles are getting a little dubey. Dead ones can be kept in the freezer for at least a year.

The amount of ethyl acetate to kill is irrelevant. The main thing is that the beetle at least three days was in the stain, then it moves away from rigor mortis .

Industrial applications

Rigor mortis plays an important role in meat technology, ensuring the tenderness of meat. When the carcass is rapidly cooled after slaughter to -3 °C...-10 °C, cold contraction of muscle fibers develops, as a result of which the consistency of meat becomes rigid, water, vitamins and biologically significant elements are lost. In this regard, it is customary to freeze meat 10 hours after slaughter, with the formation of rigor mortis[4].
http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rigor mortis

This post was edited by rpanin - 02/28/2011 18: 03

Being in the stain, or after freezing, the beetle somehow departs from rigor mortis. I don't want to engage in trolling, but I need to say something intelligible to the "authoritative person". Is there a big difference between ethyl acetate and freezing in the sense of further (in the future) processing of beetles? I did an experiment. I took a bronze fish from last year's catch (killed by frost), dipped it in boiling water (not in boiling water, but brought the water to a boil and turned it off) for 2-3 seconds. Straightens without any problems. Can I do this?

Being in the stain, or after freezing, the beetle somehow departs from rigor mortis. I don't want to engage in trolling, but I need to say something intelligible to the "authoritative person". Is there a big difference between ethyl acetate and freezing in the sense of further (in the future) processing of beetles? I did an experiment. I took a bronze fish from last year's catch (killed by frost), dipped it in boiling water (not in boiling water, but brought the water to a boil and turned it off) for 2-3 seconds. Straightens without any problems. Can I do this?

Great! Endophallus can no longer be blown out, or it will be blown out with great difficulty.
IT IS ESPECIALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO BRING WATER WITH BEETLES TO A BOIL.

Thanks for that too!

I wouldn't say that ethyl turns the beetle oaky. Too much with ethyl is fraught with subsequent fragility of the beetle, i.e. in the future, when straightened, it easily crumbles. I speak confidently, because I have a lot of experience working with small things-bugs less than 1 cm in size.
It is ideal to use a jar of sawdust from trees that do not contain resinous substances, for example, birch sawdust. In a stain with a volume of 50-100 ml, just drop a few drops of ethyl. It is advisable to keep the beetle in the stain for at least 12 hours (from 12 to 24 hours). Then transfer them to the mattresses. Regardless of the shelf life on mattresses, when soaked, the beetles become soft and easily spread out.
The fragility of the beetles indicates that they were overexposed in ethyl, or "floated"in it

  
The amount of ethyl acetate to kill is irrelevant. The main thing is that the beetle at least three days was in the stain, then it moves away from rigor mortis .

There is one circumstance that I personally had to deal with: beetles that have a "non-metallic" color (yellow, red, etc.), bright (for example, red) pigment spots-stripes (some barbels, leaf eaters, gravediggers, floaters, etc.) with a relatively long stay in the stain changed color - "brown", faded... For such "colored" ones, the faster they are soaked and the less exposed to ethyl acetate, the more likely they are to retain their lifetime color.

Kosuge Takeda, a well-known Ebay merchant, uses sulphur dioxide to kill beetles.
Thanks to this, they completely preserve the natural color of the covers and remain fresh for a very long time. I repeatedly received parcels from him with material that was individually packed in sealed plastic bags, where it was freely laid on cotton mattresses, not pressed with cellophane. You get a beetle out of such a package - a specific smell hits your nose and creates a complete illusion that it has just been frozen (and the parcel was sent for at least 2 weeks). You can straighten it right away. The truth dries much longer than when it is saturated with ethyl.