Insects fumigating

I join, exceptions are wasps and grasshoppers with colors like red, yellow and maybe bright green, after a day of staining they fade and lose saturation, they IMHO require an injection of ammonia and water!!! rasp, he caught in June ratchet, aster, OBL, with bright crimson wings, and as a result-without color,finally..

in my experience, ammonia discolors green pigments. Dragonflies, too. There is an option to stab, and in general-the best option, but it is better-through the mouth into the head ganglion, and without an excess of ammonia.
It is better to straighten any material right away -quality! - if there was such a possibility)
What I wish everyone))

This post was edited by CosMosk-02.08.2013 01: 26

That's right, but it's not an easy task to keep the bright colors of dragonflies,and you probably won't be able to do it the first time,for example,starting ones,so you'll have to train on local banals...

That's right, but it's not an easy task to keep the bright colors of dragonflies,and you probably won't be able to do it the first time,for example,starting ones,so you'll have to train on local banals...

I read that to preserve yellow spots in Cheirotonus, sulfur oxide is used in the form of gas.
But it is difficult and it is poisonous.

I read that to preserve yellow spots in Cheirotonus, sulfur oxide is used in the form of gas.
But it's complicated and it's toxic.

And what is complex zamarivayte sulfur dioxide and all.

This post was edited by Black Coleopter - 06/29/2014 21: 25

And what is complex zamarivayte sulfur dioxide and all.

Maybe nothing complicated, but for me, as it turned out, it's a problem to freeze with acetate.
I caught Oryctes nasicornis, decided to add to the collection, took out acetate, wetted cotton wool and threw it into the box with the beetle.
after 40 minutes, he lay upside down with his paws and did not move, I straightened him out for 20 minutes, I was tormented so that everything was even, the beetle did not move 1 segment all this time. And now, after 2 days, I want to see how it dries up, and he got rid of the needles and turns somersaults in the box.

This post was edited by Zunimassa - 30.06.2014 02: 43

Maybe nothing complicated, but for me, as it turned out, it's a problem to freeze with acetate.
I caught Oryctes nasicornis, decided to add to the collection, took out acetate, wetted cotton wool and threw it into the box with the beetle.
after 40 minutes, he lay upside down with his paws and did not move, I straightened him out for 20 minutes, I was tormented so that everything was even, the beetle did not move 1 segment all this time. And now, after 2 days, I want to see how it dries up, and he got rid of the needles and turns somersaults in the box.

Such large beetles need to be kept in EA pairs for at least a day , during which time it will definitely die and not get pumped.

A light injection of ammonia and in a couple of seconds a large beetle was killed on the spot

A light shot of ammonia and in a couple of seconds a large beetle is killed outright

By the way, an injection of ethyl acetate gives a similar effect

By the way, an injection of ethyl acetate gives a similar effect

I can't say anything about this, because I haven't tried it myself, but it seems that at the beginning of this topic someone said that this "doesn't work"

A light shot of ammonia and in a couple of seconds a large beetle is killed outright

And after that, does it do a good job???

And after that, does it do a good job???

perfectly straighten, as well as large butterflies. this method is also good if you are dealing with "aggressive" beetles = those that can damage others in the stain (carabuses, barbels, etc.). you prick and without fear throw it into the general stain and no bitten sawyere / nog

Such large beetles should be kept in EA pairs for at least a day , during which time it will definitely die and not get numb .

from practice, I noticed that even small "plates" (aphodia, ontophagus...) it takes a lot more time in the stain than other beetles. on the other hand, in order for beetles (even slender ones) to spread normally, it is better to keep them for a day. from a good sealed stain filled with EA, I took out Bembidion's in six months and straightened them out as if they were just starved, and if the stain siphons, then the next day the bronze will harden in it. It was based on personal experience that I wrote negative reviews about stains and traffic jams on lepstor

This post was edited by AGG-30.06.2014 20: 27

AGG: Where and how much to inject???

Tetrachloroethane. Very good agent for killing insects.

that is, even a beetle that has already been killed should be kept in acetate vapors for a day so that it retains its plasticity for the future?

from practice, I noticed that even small "plates" (aphodia, ontophagus...) it takes a lot more time in the stain than other beetles.

According to my observations, the record holders are elephants and black heifers.

that is, even a beetle that has already been killed should be kept in acetate vapors for a day so that it retains its plasticity for the future?

you can straighten it right away (in a couple of minutes it's better to make sure it's irrevocable), or you can throw it in the stain-it won't get any worse - it all depends on the circumstances

According to my observations, the record holders are elephants and black heifers.

some large elephants are "tough guys", I haven't seen such a thing in black chicks

This post was edited by AGG-01.07.2014 17: 08

AGG: Where and how much to inject???

I prick under the back basin in the joint of the hrr and abdomen so that the needle stops in the center of the prsp. volume...a few points on insulin, but you will understand for yourself when a large and frisky beetle is prizhuh

This post was edited by AGG-01.07.2014 17: 10

such a question and no one tried to soak carbon dioxide because it is heavier than air and should not come out of the stain and without oxygen the insect will not last for a long time for a few minutes

such a question and no one tried to soak carbon dioxide because it is heavier than air and should not come out of the stain and without oxygen the insect will not last for a long time just a few minutes

difusion, gas flows when opening a stain.
and it will be easier to mine and fill banks than to drop a drop of ether?

   difusion, gas flows when opening a stain.
and it will be easier to mine and fill banks than to drop a drop of ether?

but there should be no color change and gas is now used everywhere in the food industry even if water with gas is sold in siphons gas is immediately driven into the water on the spot

Dmitry Ivainin: What nonsense!!! How do you see it in practice? In the hands of a mayonnaise jar-stain, and behind the back of a heavy cylinder of carbon dioxide?
PS It's easier to fart in the stain.

Dmitry Ivainin: What nonsense!!! How do you see it in practice? In the hands of a mayonnaise jar-stain, and behind the back of a heavy cylinder of carbon dioxide?
PS It's easier to fart in the stain.

sori is to blame somehow I forgot about the weight of the balloon which in the min complexion is less than 6 kg this is if only when stationary fishing for light is suitable I just wanted to hear the opinion of those who tried

suitable for stationary light fishing

It doesn't even fit here. Just imagine a good year, and you run from the screen to the stain, or rather to the "stain installation". So a good copy will not be missed for long.

So apparently the use of carbon dioxide came from using it as bait in light traps. It was a stationary installation with an artificial light source, a fan for suction and a container into which carbon dioxide was supplied. Distribution was in America and in Russia more elegant variants were used.

When soaking different groups, you really have to use different methods.
For example, the forgotten described method of thermal soaking gives good results and is absolutely harmless for mass collections of small insects with hard covers. In general, it is reduced to placing in a dense container filled with two-thirds of the collected material, equipped with a hermetically sealed stopper, heated in the sun or even just in a pocket. The effect is achieved not by heating, but as a result of the rapid release of moisture from insects under the influence of temperature, death occurs from the rupture of the trachea. After that, the plug is replaced with cotton wool for ventilation and moisture removal, or the material is transferred to mattresses.

I want to suggest this design of staining, although, maybe, this is already new.
As you can see, the base is a slightly holed CD box. Actually, all manufacturing is reduced to piercing and turning/stripping with emery.

Advantages, in my opinion:
1) There is no (or almost no) contact of insects with EA - since cotton wool (or other material) with EA is placed in a perforated tube with a hole at one end, which is plugged with a cork.
2)" Reloading "(or primary" charging") with ethyl acetate is carried out by carefully pouring it into a tube with cotton wool, in principle it is not necessary to stir and sort through anything.
3) EA does not cause swelling of the polymer material of the box (I judge, however, only by the boxes from which I made it).
4) Weighs almost nothing.

Disadvantages:
1) Two corks with strings, but I think that this does not really interfere.
2) If you suddenly need to get something out of the stain, you need to unscrew the lid - that is, all the accumulated concentration of EA is lost (it's not difficult to accumulate it, it's a pity to pour it) and, of course, if the material is frisky and still worn, then, as they say, who is very good at what. Or try using tweezers to reach through the round entrance without unscrewing the lid. As for backlashes, in my opinion, due to the strong evaporation of EA, their effect on the concentration is negligible.
3) A relatively small hole for laying insects.
4) Suitable, of course, not for all groups of insects.

The entrance hole.
First, I scratched the circle with a measuring compass, then with a heated awl I made holes along its entire length, the middle moved away, and then I sanded it to a round shape.

A tube.
With a heated awl, I poked holes - everything is simple.

Traffic jams.
With a knife and emery, I gave the desired shape to each cork, I personally had everything very tightly fitted - no hint of EA evaporation and material scuttling. Both plugs sat inside about 4 millimeters. Then the awl went in from one side, came out from the other, and then with a thick needle with a thick thread inserted, I made a knot, which I fixed with a plaster.

On the side of the lid, I made two holes for prying threads.

To be honest, I haven't tested this stain in the field. Therefore, how all this will behave in the heat or in the wet - I can not say. I just suggest such a design option, which you can optimize for your needs if you want.




This post was edited by Dr. Niko - 11.04.2015 17: 40

I want to suggest this design of staining, although, maybe, this is already new.

In my opinion, this is an unnecessarily complicated construction. In addition, the huge consumption of ethyl acetate is obvious due to the gap between the parts of the stain.
I use as a stain a transparent plastic bottle of condensed milk 0.5 l. The bottle is washed, the sticker is removed, a piece of absorbent material is glued to the underside of the cork - the stain is ready!
The advantages are the same, plus more:
- Easy to manufacture
- Excellent tightness.

Well, once there was a discussion of adapted containers for staining - in my opinion, there is nothing better than a can of Mocha coffee (I already wrote about this here): http://molbiol.ru/forums/index.php?showtop...dpost&p=1051532

A hole is cut in the plastic bottom of the stopper, a test tube with cotton wool is inserted - voila . The volume of the jar is selected according to your needs - they are available for sale in different ways.

Well, once there was a discussion of adapted containers for staining - in my opinion, there is nothing better than a can of Mocha coffee

A good option, but I don't really like it, because unlike plastic, such a stain can break and it is relatively heavy. On sale you can find plastic jars of similar dimensions.
http://kvartacosmetic.ru/katalog/49

A good option, but I don't really like it, because unlike plastic, such a stain can break and it is relatively heavy. On sale you can find plastic jars of similar dimensions.
http://kvartacosmetic.ru/katalog/49

I agree-the glass is heavier, and this is a disadvantage. And the danger of breaking is always there - with me, by the way, this was in Turkey, in Bodrum-wrote right here .
But I'm just more used to glass. In addition, it seems to me that the plastic is more "fogging up", condenses. In short, it's a matter of habit.

okoem, Dmitrich
Unjustified complexity-I agree, but the idea is to use a NON-bottled version. No glue or sticking, the cotton wool is well fixed in the tube. I won't argue about EA.
As they say-my business to offer.

This post was edited by Dr. Niko - 11.04.2015 20: 24

Well, then, and my three kopecks. I apologize in advance for the many letters.
For me (bugs, work more often in the field than in the hospital, intensive collection with limited time, frequent change of points, constant readiness for collection, often undesirable to attract attention), a successful ethyl acetate stain should be:
1) unbreakable, that is, completely;
2) resistant to deformations and structural breakdowns, the action of EA, alcohol, bio-contamination;
3) compact in accordance with the volume (fit into the pockets of clothes and do not interfere with movement, mini-stain - in any, the largest - in the largest, this is usually my side pockets of trousers- cargo);
4) securely and hermetically sealed (not only does it not open accidentally, but also does not "pop" out of your pocket where it is not necessary at all, for example, in crowded places, when contacting officials, etc.);
5) provides easy transfer of material for separate collection in different
locations. 6) maximum "long-playing" from one filling station-from here it is desirable to have an optimal volume (not too large), with a minimum loading hole and refueling without opening;
7) without the possibility of direct contact of beetles with the EA carrier to avoid damage to the material;
8) standardized refueling standards to save EA and again to avoid damage to sensitive species. Standards, of course, may be different for ordinary and particularly resistant species, for quick and gentle soaking, etc., but the point is that it is desirable to clearly understand how much EA to add to achieve the desired effect, which is difficult to remember with different types of stains;
9) easy to clean and maintainable;
10) with all this inexpensive, from non-deficient standard parts that are clear where to get now and in the future, and not particularly time-consuming in execution.
As you can easily see, the previously mentioned constructions do not meet all these requirements. Ideologically, the closest thing to the design I use is the stain from Dr. Niko, but my design, in my opinion, is more technologically advanced, more convenient and more reliable.
So, first, the standard stain.
Description.
It is made on the basis of a standard jar of chemical reagents with a capacity of 125 ml, the upper part of a standard 15 ml falcon with a screw cap (the lower part is cut off) and part of a standard 1 cc insulin syringe (part of the body with the needle, needle cap and plunger are removed). The jar can be any size, if the size of the lid allows you to place the parts of the stain. All parts made of polyethylene / polypropylene are standard, completely inert to EA and bio-contamination, easy to clean and replace. For the past 2 years, I have not lost any falcon caps or filling device caps, but since I always have both falcons and syringes with me (and 1 set is always stored in a special field vest pocket and a stain wallet), this is not a problem.
Using.
Normally, beetles are introduced into the stain through the falcon cap (inner diameter 13.5 mm), while EA is almost not lost. Larger beetles can be placed by unscrewing the lid (inner diameter 33mm), but for systematic collection of beetles of this size, I use a stainer of a similar design, but larger (500ml, 750ml) with a 50ml falcon loading tube or even larger (1000ml). Filling of the stain is made through the tube from the syringe when the cap is removed. Standard refueling of 0.2 ml of EA ensures the work of the stain (small up to 20 mm, not particularly resistant beetles, which do not need to be soaked super-fast) usually for 3-4 hours (3 refueling per light day). When changing the point or filling in the stain, especially if the beetles are already frozen, only the jar is changed (the label is glued to it and the standard lid is screwed on), if necessary, you can partially refuel the stain, and separate the material in the replaceable jar with a cotton swab and add cotton wool with EA on top for steaming (usually I try to leave the material in EA pairs, although at least for 10 hours, if possible-for a day). Standard cans of both 125ml and 250ml with the same neck are suitable (only the dose of EA should be increased by 1.5 times). On trips with frequent change of points, I usually take 4 stain lids and 3-4 cans of each volume (125 and 250 ml) from the standard ones, and a larger volume-according to the situation, but you can do with a smaller amount. All analysis of the material takes place at a convenient time in a convenient place.
Production:
A hole is drilled in the lid of the jar with a diameter slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the falcon flask, then by rotating the model knife or conical file inserted into the hole, it is carefully trimmed in a circle so that the falcon can be inserted with considerable effort (very tightly). The inserted falcon is cut approximately along the bottom section of the jar lid. Similarly, a hole for a syringe is made with a standard piston cap (but without a piston), the syringe is inserted and cut approximately along the neck of the jar. It is important to perform the initial marking of the centers of the holes on the inside of the lid so that both devices fit without interfering with each other and opening and closing the jar. The trim of the syringe is tightly filled with cotton wool. Actually, that's all. No glue or complicated tools are needed. At first, I drilled the syringe with small holes (0.8 mm) to improve the evaporation of EA, but it works fine as it is. For perfect tightness, you can replace part of the syringe with a cut-off test tube with a threaded cap (see below about the mini-stain), and melt the perimeter of the holes in the assembled form with a soldering iron with a wire nozzle on. Such "stains 007" do not flow at all and do not smell anything, I use them for crowded places.

This post was edited by Barnaba - 12.04.2015 00: 41

Pictures:

St125_1.jpg — (179.62к)


St125_2.jpg — (151.57к)


St125_3.jpg — (323.87к)

The mini-stainer is designed according to the same principle, but due to its small size (it should be hidden in a clenched fist if necessary, and if it is found to mow under the medicine bottle-partly a joke), it has not yet been possible to place an external refueling device made from standard parts in the lid (I'm working on it). Therefore, it is refilled when opened, in a layer of cotton wool, tightly stuffed with one piece in the space of the lid (with proper refueling, it never falls out). But since the stain does not leak at all, refueling lasts for a long time, usually before emptying to fill. It is emptied into a 50ml falcon tank, where it enters almost without a gap. The volume of the stain is 25ml, the diameter of the loading hole is 8mm. This makes it easy to collect, including not the smallest beetles, and empty the container of one of the types of exhusters I use (with a respiratory or pneumomechanical drive) into the stain.
It is made of a bottle of Efferalgan tablets, from the lid of which the desiccant is removed, and a cut-off eppendorff tube with a threaded lid. The hole is adjusted as tightly as possible. For additional sealing before final installation, a layer of 100% neutral silicone sealant is applied to the tube and the edges of the hole (acidic is not sufficiently resistant to EA). The excess is removed after polymerization (1 day). The sealant does not adhere to surfaces, but serves as a sealing gasket. Cotton wool is replaced from time to time with fresh ones.
I have three such stains, and one of them is always with me .

Pictures:

mini_1.jpg — (233.5к)


mini_2.jpg — (193.99к)


mini_3.jpg — (234.74к)


mini_4.jpg — (241.03к)


mini_5.jpg — (208к)

 
As you can see, the base is a slightly holed CD box.

You can replace it with a food storage container.

This post was edited by Black Coleopter - 12.04.2015 10: 21

Well, once there was a discussion of adapted containers for staining - in my opinion, there is nothing better than a can of Mocha coffee (I already wrote about this here): http://molbiol.ru/forums/index.php?showtop...dpost&p=1051532
A hole is cut in the plastic bottom of the stopper, a test tube with cotton wool is inserted - voila . The volume of the jar is selected according to your needs - they are available for sale in different ways.

I join you and also recommend it to everyone.
I've been using them on your advice for several years now in polythene clearing through (in my version, a sharpened thin-walled metal tube) holes are made, then cotton wool is laid and ethyl acetate is dripped. A wonderful thing: ea pairs actually hold for a long time and it's not a pity to break (there is a stock, and I like to drink coffee)

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 12.04.2015 16: 01

Well, then, and my three kopecks.

Thank you, interesting and technically written! In general, I was close to your design, but I was tempted by the presence of a" ready-made " tube without the need to solder. As a result, it must be admitted that tightness suffers, since there are, of course, backlashes.

   I join you and also recommend it to everyone.
I've been using them on your advice for several years now in polythene clearing through (in my version, a sharpened thin-walled metal tube) holes are made, then cotton wool is laid and ethyl acetate is dripped. A wonderful thing: ea pairs actually hold for a long time and it's not a pity to break (there is a stock, and I like to drink coffee)

Vasily, I don't think there will be a consensus here, because someone prefers to completely open the lid of the stain to load insects, and someone prefers to unscrew the lid of the tube soldered into the lid

 
Vasily, I don't think there will be a consensus here, because someone prefers to completely open the lid of the stain to load insects, and someone prefers to unscrew the lid of the tube soldered into the lid

Nikolai, of course, there will be no consensus, because here Kakhdy offers his own solutions.
It's just that this design has one very significant advantage: it is practically airtight and the concentration of EA vapors sufficient for soaking insects can be kept for quite a long time (two days with confidence, and then I fill it up). That is, if a short-term trip (up to a day or two) ethyl acetate with you is not even necessary.
This is what it looks like in my version:

The syringe lying below is a kind of device for refueling if there is no desire to pick up polyethylene once again. The nozzle of the syringe is carefully re-drilled with a drill so that the polyethylene tube of an ordinary ballpoint pen rod fits end-to-end.
Here it is important to choose a syringe in which the piston is not rubber, but entirely polyethylene (the rubber piston is extremely unstable to ethyl acetate and quickly becomes unusable):

This design has proven itself very well in my subjective opinion.

This post was edited by vasiliy-feoktistov - 12.04.2015 19: 35

sori is to blame somehow I forgot about the weight of the balloon which in the min complexion is less than 6 kg this is if only when stationary fishing for light is suitable I just wanted to hear the opinion of those who tried it  

Not only did they try it, but they also managed quite without a balloon. Carbon dioxide can also be obtained by chemical means without any weightlifting.
Many, probably, have not already caught the Soviet dry " pop " in paper bags? You pour this powder (and it's just a mixture of citric acid and baking soda) into a glass, pour water from the tap - and here's a soda for you!

Approximately on this principle, the following stain works (see the link):

SPHECOS-23 – July-1992 – p.11
http://entomology.si.edu/Hymenoptera/Sphec...%20Dec-1991.pdf

PS You just need to remember that most insects, unlike warm-blooded ones, do not die from carbon dioxide, but simply fall asleep. Reversible, of course. Therefore, carbon dioxide stains are used not by killer collectors, but by scientists who need to observe live (revived) insects in comfortable laboratory conditions.

Not only did they try it, but they also managed quite without a balloon. Carbon dioxide can also be obtained by chemical means without any weightlifting.
Many, probably, have not already caught the Soviet dry " pop " in paper bags? You pour this powder (and it's just a mixture of citric acid and baking soda) into a glass, pour water from the tap - and here's a soda for you!

Approximately on this principle, the following stain works (see the link):

SPHECOS-23 – July-1992 – p.11
http://entomology.si.edu/Hymenoptera/Sphec...%20Dec-1991.pdf

PS You just need to remember that most insects, unlike warm-blooded ones, do not die from carbon dioxide, but simply fall asleep. Reversible, of course. Therefore, carbon dioxide stains are used not by killer collectors, but by scientists who need to observe live (revived) insects in comfortable laboratory conditions.

The link doesn't work...