Insects fumigating

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Likes: 1

05.10.2015 0:58, ИНО

AVA, thanks for the link, made a similar device, and it took only 15 minutes:

Naturally, I didn't have tartaric acid. as, however, and lemon. I took the vinegar. At the bottom of the bottle, he poured a teaspoon of soda. Vinegar was collected and injected with a 5-cc syringe, it took more than three servings. You will need to buy a 20 cc one. Otherwise, everything is convenient and efficient. True, along with carbon dioxide, acetic acid vapors are sublimated, which is felt by the characteristic smell. There are some concerns about how they might affect the wasp's health. Therefore, in the first experiment, the exposure was made short - 2 minutes. After that, for about the same period of time, the female Polistes gallicus, taken out into the air, arrived in a immobilized state, although not completely-it clung to the substrate with its paws, and did not react to touch. I came out of the anesthesia as fast as I could get it in the jar. But, in principle, in these two minutes it would be possible to mark a dozen operating systems, and, most importantly,in the field. I now have just such a task, I want to mark all the young queens remaining on the nests, so that in the spring I can see how far they will move away from their parent nests when laying my own. It remains only to figure out how to safely drive a dozen wasps into one syringe. But I have already made a device for this, and if it works, I will show it as well.

Likes: 1

07.10.2015 16:41, ИНО

Final version of my [s]bulbulator [s] WITH 2-narcotizer:

The 5-cc vinegar syringe, as promised, was replaced with a 20-cc one. Cotton wool was eliminated (as wasps got their feet entangled in these fibers) and replaced with a pharmacy jar for analyzing feces (unused, unlike everything else). The choice is for this vessel, as it fits snugly into the cylinder of a 20 cc syringe. Holes are made in the bottom with an awl. From the cylinder of another 20-cc syringe, the finger stops were cut off and a funnel cut out of a liter PET bottle was put on (it also fit perfectly). To seal the bottle, two stoppers are made from segments of raspberry stalks.

Working procedure:

1. We collect a full 20-cc syringe (the one that was not cut) of table vinegar. Probably, if you have it, you can take vinegar essence, then the syringe will need a smaller volume. Hermetically close the outlet channel (in my case, the cap from an insulin syringe is used for this), Pour 2-3 teaspoons of baking soda into the bottle. It is better to take it in excess - this way acetic acid will fly less.

2. We roll off the os and drive it into the container (the cut-off cylinder of the syringe). The funnel helps a lot. Then we plug it with a jar for analysis.

3. We move away from the crowd of people, so that no one, looking at the subsequent procedures, does not think up something unkind. And then recently, a granny threatened to call the police because I was photographing something inside the frame pipes of the clothes dryers in her yard. If I had started manipulating the device described above in front of her, I think I would have taken it for chemical weapons.

4. Remove the traffic jams. We connect our container with wasps and a syringe with vinegar to the bottle. Unscrew the lid of the test jar so that carbon dioxide can freely displace the air. Pour in the vinegar. For one time, 5 - 7 ml is enough.

5. Wasps freeze within a minute (gallicuses noticeably dominate faster) After that, if the active bubbling in the bottle is over, we tighten the lid of the jar for analysis and wait another minute.

6. We take out the jar for analysis. We pour out the os on some flat, clean surface, carry out the necessary manipulations (in my case, marking with paint). We have 1-2 minutes to do this, so we will proceed carefully, but quickly.

7. Let the wasps air out for 5-10 minutes. Applies only to my case and is made for safe drying of the paint. In other cases, this may not be necessary.

8.We catch the wasps again (they still haven't fully recovered and can't fly, so it's easy), take them to the place of capture and release them.

9. Upon returning, remove the rubber stopper and rinse the bottle. The solid product of the reaction - sodium acetate - is easily soluble, so there are no difficulties with this.

If the nests are located away from the eyes of strangers, then points 3 and 8 should be omitted, carrying out all manipulations in one place. In this case, immediately after recovering from anesthesia, the wasps can be gently driven back to the nest with a brush.

20 ml of vinegar is enough for 3-4 uses of the system, if you plan more, you need to take an additional container with it, and immediately fill up more soda.

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Likes: 7

28.02.2016 14:20, AGG

and who are you going to starve there? It's like another invention of the bicycle

avoid beetles in large sawdust=small shavings of aspen / linden abundantly moistened with weasel and no one has lost a hair and when drying, all the scales regain their original appearance. I haven't seen any normal firm stains since 2000

. cork lids-SHIT! (see reviews on entomone) krupnyak podkalivayu amiachkom and there. I straighten it out whenever possible. the main thing is that the lid is hermetically sealed. those stains that "podspuskayut" sometimes pour weasels or ea. I have a fruit bowl full of fees of the 12th year and everything is as if I was

disappointed in modern stains, and the old ones have fallen into disrepair

I use cans of oxidizer for hair dye - I cut off the pipir, and then I melt it on gas and press it with pliers

This post was edited by AGG - 02/28/2016 14: 34

28.02.2016 16:30, ИНО

Drinkers with a gypsum bottom have a place to be, but gypsum is usually walled up with cyanide (or some other highly toxic byaka, I forgot what it's called). The bottom line is that such a stain works without recharging for months. I haven't seen it personally, but I've heard it from reliable sources. And with ethyl acetate, if you are afraid of getting wet (you never know, maybe there are some exotic insects that have pigments dissolved in it), there is nothing easier than a fleece attached to the lid and a bag (pocket) where the stain is placed only vertically. The container itself is not a problem to find, any polyethylene or polypropylene sealed jar will do, even chloroform will not dissolve it.

This post was edited by ENO - 02/28/2016 16: 32

29.02.2016 1:28, ИНО

In the pockets of my jacket (there are 4 of them), large oblong cans will become quite vertical (if only you don't move around in a plastic way). True, I usually have only one stain, the rest of the "patronage cells" are occupied by other equipment. It is also quite possible to choose a backpack with many small pockets, if necessary, adding additional foam partitions to the design. But this is for the case when you need a lot of stains and none of them is allowed to contact the material with ethyl acetate-soaked cotton wool, that is, a completely unrealistic and paranoid option. IMHO for beetles, excluding a few particularly tender groups, it is quite possible to do with one roomy stain. In case of meeting with particularly large and aggressive specimens, it is fashionable to grab several separate small containers, where to put them alive, without any zamora. Alternative: one big stain and lots of leaky jars sneaking into the living room. In general, everyone goes crazy in their own way, to whom it is convenient. Moreover, beetles are the most trouble-free squad in this regard.

29.02.2016 21:56, ИНО

I mean, turn each individual container into a stain? Too much hemorrhoids. And what do the racehorses nibble at each other in a common jar? I once had such an experience with carabuses, but I don't remember with steeds. In general, with beetles simply in the sense that they can damage each other only purposefully, insects with more delicate integuments often do this accidentally, in attempts to get out of the stain. In general, the concentration of vapors should be such that the insect falls asleep as quickly as possible. The less it twitches, the less it injures itself and its neighbors, and, accordingly, the more you can stuff any difference into one stain. In this regard, chloroform is out of competition, but it has other unpleasant side effects.

This post was edited by ENO - 02/29/2016 21: 57

01.03.2016 23:09, ИНО

Chloroform almost instantly has an anesthetic effect on insects, that is, they immediately fall asleep and do not flutter. Ethyl acetate (and even more so acetone alcohol, etc.), on the contrary, first irritate the insect, leading to frenzied motor activity and only then it freezes. On the other hand, chloroform tans quite noticeably, and can also have an unpredictable effect on some pigments, for example, many locusts turn red like crayfish when they are lured by it. With ethyl acetate, there are no such unpleasant phenomena. I think the ideal option would be a combination of rapid anesthesia with chloroform followed by evaporation with ethyl acetate, but this is too hemorrhagic for me, both in terms of extracting substances and in terms of using them in the field. I've only been using ethyl acetate for the last couple of years. Even for the full picture, you should probably try diethyl (sulfur) ether, I remember at uni they temporarily anesthetized drosophila. Flies fell asleep quickly and did not twitch (as from chloroform, both of these substances, unlike ethyl acetate, were previously used to anesthetize people). But I can't imagine how larger insects will behave. Also, sulfur ether is very volatile, fire-and explosive. In theory, it should be sold in auto shops as a liquid before the engine starts quickly, but I never asked.

Likes: 1

02.03.2016 0:40, Victor Titov

Even for the full picture, you should probably try diethyl (sulfur) ether, I remember at uni they temporarily anesthetized drosophila. Flies fell asleep quickly and did not twitch (as from chloroform, both of these substances, unlike ethyl acetate, were previously used to anesthetize people). But I can't imagine how larger insects will behave.

In the old days (70-80 years of the last century) I only used it, since ethyl acetate was not available to me then, and I did not set myself the task of using it then. And the so-called "ether for anesthesia", also known as sulfur ether, could be obtained without problems both in the hospital and from a friend of the medical examiner. What should I say? "Morit" quickly, but tans and strongly affects the color change. In short, when the "ethyl acetate era" came for me, I, as they say, felt the difference.

Likes: 1