Insects fumigating

We turned back to the topic. In general, this is how I understood the answer. You CAN't freeze beetles, let alone put them in boiling water, but if you really want to, you can. I got ethyl acetate, the problem is solved, there will be no more stupid questions. I am very grateful for your advice. Thank you.

We turned back to the topic. In general, this is how I understood the answer. You CAN't freeze beetles, let alone put them in boiling water, but if you really want to, you can. I got ethyl acetate, the problem is solved, there will be no more stupid questions. I am very grateful for your advice. Thank you.

We turned back to the topic.

And now on the topic. All beetles and other insects were always killed only in this way. I didn't find any special shortcomings in it - only after removing them from the freezer - they should be allowed to "thaw" in room conditions, otherwise it will be difficult to straighten the legs of the beetle - because of the stiffened muscles.
I also noticed that after long-term storage in" frosty " conditions for several months - there is such a phenomenon that the copies became, as it seemed to me, too "brittle and fragile" or something.

I often use frost myself. Both for butterflies and beetles. Beetles sometimes have difficulties with spreading their legs. I didn't see any problems with butterflies. It is very convenient especially in the summer when there are a lot of fees, if you do not have time to lay out everything, pack and arrange it.I have a large freezer of 1.8 m. 3-4 containers there are occupied only by insects. Insects can only dry out a little if they are there for more than a couple of months, especially the antennae and thin legs.

Prastite please.Here I was substituted....after the butterflies were frozen, mold was formed during storage.Soooo sorry about that.What did you need to dry in the light?

I'll share my experience. Perhaps someone will find it useful.
On multi-day trips around our region, I use "canned food"to store beetles. Sealed plastic wide-necked containers (bottles) from under all kinds of drinks and household chemicals (perfumes, rinses, etc.) where I transfer the material from the stains after the day's collection. So that the material does not fight-I lay the tual tightly. paper lightly moistened with ethyl acetate solvent. We have problems with EA, so I use nail polish remover in our stains. And for "canned food" - what is cheaper (solvent 646, 647).
Result.
The material remains "fresh". That is, it practically does not dry out. And this is taking into account our air humidity (10-20%) and heat. Especially critical in the desert.
The packaging is compact and not particularly afraid of shaking and shifting, which is important in conditions of off-road car travel.
Upon returning from a 3-7-day trip, I sort the material and put it in small, hermetically sealed plastic bags. We sell them in all markets in thousands and in different sizes. Next, I put the bags in ice cream containers and put them in the freezer. Some items are stored for several months, and some materials are stored for more than a year. There are no problems with straightening. After thawing, the material is as freshly caught-mobile and naturally colored. If you compare it with spreading out after dry storage, then the freezer is out of competition. This is true for beetles, butterflies, and elephants. I don't know the rest.
Now about the disadvantages of this method.
Not all bags are airtight and therefore, if stored for a long time, they still dry out. Especially small instances. I partially solve the problem like this: pencil labels (ordinary office paper of any size ~2x2 cm), which I always put together with the material in bags, before closing, I dip them in ordinary water. In such bags, the evaporation of water from the container slows down due to the high humidity inside.
After getting out of the freezer, I keep the bag for several hours at room temperature. Because of the wet label, a miniature model of the humidifying chamber is obtained. In addition to beetles, the method also works for small butterflies (pigeons). But you need to make sure that when closing the bag, the wet label does not come into contact with the wings. This is easily achieved when using a slightly larger sachet and straight hands.
There are also not very significant disadvantages: large storage sizes compared to mattresses, a limit on space in the freezer, painstaking work on laying and labeling. The rest - only advantages.
Good luck!

Tell me how to starve red ladybirds that they would not darken . Harmonia axyridis succinea remained as it was alive , and Coccinella septempunctata caught 6 pieces and all turned dark in a couple of days

To Sebastes: About sulfur dioxide, even Pavlovich wrote:

Now, however, under the conditions of the time you are experiencing, you will often not have to find any of the listed tools. Then brimstone will serve you. Sulfur in pieces is very easy to find — it is sold in drugstores and general stores, and, in addition, it is often found in markets and bazaars, even in remote provinces, where it is taken for homemade matches (sulfur lamps lit in the morning about the "heat"stored in the stove under the ash). Prepare the sulfur paper: take a filter paper or pass paper, dissolve a piece of sulfur, the size of a piece of sawn sugar, in a sardine tin or a piece of tin bent like a box on the stove and soak the paper with this molten sulfur. For this purpose, a large flat tin can is convenient, in which you can dip rectangular pieces of paper. Dry the soaked paper like laundry on a stretched thread. Cut the finished paper with scissors into squares (about square). cm) and store in a box. For soaking, these squares will have to be burned inside the stain.

And if ammonia is added to the stain instead of Ethyl acetate(for butterflies) and why???

A question for experienced entomologists - how many injections does 40 ml of ammonia bubble last?
It is not clear how much you need to buy ammonia for the season.

It costs a penny, take a dozen bubbles.

And if ammonia is added to the stain instead of Ethyl acetate(for butterflies) and why???

Poisons can have different effects. If you inhale ammonia, the butterfly may eventually die, but it will have time to become a mess. The same ammonia in the form of an injection - almost instant death. Ethyl acetate-on the contrary, works better through the respiratory system: it puts the insect to sleep, although it also works as an injection.

As for Cassidinae, unfortunately, there are no ideal ways to preserve their natural color. Mother-of-pearl (and so on. in this genus, the bands on their elytra generally depend on circulation during the life of the hemolymph, and it is impossible to preserve them after death.
As for Coccinellidae, there are more or less 2 less suitable ways:
1) Killing with high temperature (beetles are placed in a test tube or a penicillin-type vial, which are lowered for about 20 seconds into boiling (just boiled) water (option-coals of a fire).
2) soaking in snuff (I do this: in a jar like from under a cosmetic cream, I pour tobacco on the bottom, make a layer of gauze, and on it - beetles. It takes quite a long time (at least a day), but the result is quite acceptable. I even once as an experiment Cassida vibex retained its natural color, not to mention the cows.

Dear Viktor Dmitrievich,
I really liked the method of staining with tobacco. vibex with natural coloring - TOP class! I've been collecting leaf eaters myself for a long time. hence the question-what tobacco? and then in the store of its varieties ...tsat?
question number 2 - when mounting (as fresh, and to a greater extent, soaked), some ladybugs emit a "yellow muck" that fills the entire die and white spots of the elytra and lower parts (for example, dark versions of harmony axidiris). with the die, I solved the problem-I buy plastic transparent ones-and it doesn't get colored and the bottom is visible and the copy is intact than on the corner.
maybe the elytra can be bleached with something? clean gasoline?
or maybe it's the loosen-up?

Dear Viktor Dmitrievich,
I really liked the method of staining with tobacco. vibex with natural coloring - TOP class! I've been collecting leaf eaters myself for a long time. hence the question-what tobacco? and then in the store of its varieties ...tsat?
question number 2 - when mounting (as fresh, and to a greater extent, soaked), some ladybugs emit a "yellow muck" that fills the entire die and white spots of the elytra and lower parts (for example, dark versions of harmony axidiris). with the die, I solved the problem-I buy plastic transparent ones-and it doesn't get colored and the bottom is visible and the copy is intact than on the corner.
maybe the elytra can be bleached with something? clean gasoline?
or maybe it's the loosen-up?

1) As for tobacco, the main thing is that it should be smelling, and as for the variety - the one that is simpler and cheaper (additional perfumes are not needed here).
2) As for the "muck" released by beetles (by the way, not only cows), from which the die is colored, turns brown - I myself suffer from this scourge very often. In most cases, this is due, in my opinion, to "fattening up". In principle, if it is really fat, you can clean it with gasoline (best for Zippo lighters).

in my opinion, this is not exactly fat. it gives a different color. let's experiment

To Dmitrich: 1) To combat the so-called "zazhirvanie" I use a mixture of acetone and ethyl alcohol, immersing the insect in them for 1-2 hours.
2) From the bottom of my heart I want to congratulate you on your last Birthday As they say, better late than never.

To Dmitrich: 1) To combat the so-called "zazhirvanie" I use a mixture of acetone and ethyl alcohol, immersing the insect in them for 1-2 hours.
2) From the bottom of my heart I want to congratulate you on your last Birthday As they say, better late than never.

1) What is the ratio of acetone and alcohol? And how is it applied - upon the fact of zazhirivaniya, with peeling from the die, or in relation to each instance before mounting, as a preventive measure?
2) Thank you for your congratulations! Very nice!

to Alexanders.

Nail polish remover: on the right side - the one that kills beetles well, on the other side-bad (without acetone) and costs twice as much as the first one.

Pictures:

IMG_7490.JPG — (2.63мб)

1) What is the ratio of acetone and alcohol? And how is it applied - upon the fact of zazhirivaniya, with peeling from the die, or in relation to each instance before mounting, as a preventive measure?

I take the ratio of 1:1 alcohol and acetone as the mounted insect zazhirivaniya with pre-peeling.

A fun fact happened in Dosang. Live scarabs had to be disinfected. We decided to carefully wash them with Faeries. Washed beetles died in less than a day, and even in ethyl acetate, they sometimes do not immediately die.

Yes, yes. I also heard about the use of Feri for washing and soaking dung beetles. Despite the fact that the "Feri" itself is not a toxic substance.

Probably, it "hits" the lipids in the cell membranes very hard.

Seneka, why did you need to disinfect it?
I read somewhere about this method of washing dung beetles from manure-live beetles are placed in a container with wet toilet paper, and after a short time they are completely wiped off in the process of their active movement.

Surfactants of synthetic detergents, reducing the surface tension, "conduct" the liquid into various pores, including spiracles. As a result, obturation asphyxia, close to drowning, but developing much faster. Film-forming agents and chemical components that are potentially toxic to insects (perfumes, bactericides, etc.) further accelerate the process.

Seneka, why did you need to disinfect it?

A boy to pick up, keep at home.

This post was edited by Seneka - 23.05.2011 09: 38

A boy to pick up, keep at home.

Hands are still better to wash later - they carry different helminth eggs

I tried this summer here is a tool for lack of pure ethyl acetate.
In principle, it works fine, but the composition of glycerin is confusing (although it is non-volatile).
Do they all contain it, or do they still have it without it?

Pictures:

_____________.jpg — (215.09к)

I'm crawling like this:
Insects stay soft long enough if they are kept in the vapors of this liquid.

Pictures:

CIMG9893.jpg — (344.06к)


CIMG9894.jpg — (1.27мб)

Enlighten the beginner, is it possible to simply freeze beetles, I throw them in the freezer and in 15 minutes they are ready?

if I don't need them soon, then I put them in a small room with cotton wool(so that it absorbs moisture), and the next day most of them are ready, but if it's urgent, you can also put them in the freezer, I kill moths like that, but caterpillars...even after complete glaciation, thawed-come to life!


by the way, no one knows why they don't die?

can 70% vinegar be used as a stain?

can 70% vinegar be used as a stain?

NO, this is a 70% aqueous solution of acetic acid! Use either pure ethyl acetate.
Or a nail polish remover containing it (when buying, you need to read the composition on the bottle).

Thank you for the information, but how does long storage in the freezer affect insects, maybe someone has such information?

If the insects are not in sealed containers, the liquid is frozen out and they dry out (soaking is required)

Elizar, thank you!

+ some moths after overexposure are very difficult to spread

If the insects are not in sealed containers, the liquid is frozen out and they dry out (soaking is required)

This is how I dry soft-bodied insects.. colorado potato pupa, wasp larvae, etc.

I went to the chemical reagent store today - there was no ethyl acetate, I decided to take butyl acetate. Has anyone used it? Is there a difference, can it be applied?

I read what I could. They are not particularly different.

A fun fact happened in Dosang. Live scarabs had to be disinfected. We decided to carefully wash them with Faeries. The washed beetles died in less than a day, and even in ethyl acetate, they sometimes do not die immediately.

And here is the question. Bought Heliocopris bucephalus, dry. They stink really bad. The smell of dung beetles, which I collected myself, disappeared after "bathing" in alcohol and drying. But it was all a small matter. What to do with these bucephalus-can you buy them in Faerie? Or hope that it will wear off by itself.

And here is the question. Bought Heliocopris bucephalus, dry. They stink really bad. The smell of dung beetles, which I collected myself, disappeared after "bathing" in alcohol and drying. But it was all a small matter. What to do with these bucephalus-can you buy them in Faerie? Or hope that it will wear off by itself.

Still soak. Try soaking in a hot solution of fairy perfume, and then hold in alcohol for an hour, then straighten. The rest of the smell will disappear by itself.