Features of light catching

that's it!Who sucks the accumulator to the end?!The machine is a generator.Everything comes from the car running.That's why I don't want to take the second generator.Well, if such an accident still happens,I will remove the accumulator from the motorcycle (just in case) and light up.Not in the first I think, an inverter with a capacity of 600-800 watts will be just right

that's it!Who sucks the accumulator to the end?!The machine is a generator.Everything comes from the car running.That's why I don't want to take the second generator.Well, if such an accident still happens,I will remove the accumulator from the motorcycle (just in case) and light up.Not in the first I think, an inverter with a capacity of 600-800 watts will be just right

I use an inverter with a power of 375 W paired with DRL-250 (sometimes I change it to DRV-160), 25 meters of wire to it. The fourth season works, only a couple of times the fuse blew. So think about whether you need extra watts, the difference in price is very noticeable and there is no benefit. I start the engine only after the inverter is cut off when the voltage drops. And most importantly, take the one that hangs directly on the battery terminals and does not stick into the cigarette lighter socket. Car wiring is not always ready for such loads and may melt. Or take it with a plug for a cigarette lighter and change it to clips of the "crocodile" type.

If you can-throw off the marking.And even better-photo

If you can-throw off the marking.And even better-photos

I took it here:
http://shop.key.ru/shop/groups/764/

Label: Tripp-lite PowerVerter® 375-Watt Ultra-Compact Inverter

Also see here:

http://tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2552

There are pictures there.
I repeat once again, do not connect through the cigarette lighter, the wiring may not stand.

This post was edited by entomolog - 10.08.2007 15: 48

As I promised to post a photo of our generator.  

Well, this is your humble servant during fishing
  

And just a photo of the screen
  

Pictures:
PICT4705.jpg — (44.67к) 11.08.2007 — 25.08.2007
PICT4741.jpg — (24.21 k) 11.08.2007-25.08.2007
PICT4744.jpg — (20.88к) 11.08.2007 — 25.08.2007

As I promised to post a photo of our generator.

I wonder how much it costs?

Beautiful, there are no words. I want to go back to the Far East.

I wonder how much it costs?

it cost about 8 tr., by acquaintance, Chinese, but high-quality, on the Honda engine. Ask around for the Endress brand, this kilowatt, there are models and 600W, I have not heard any complaints about them (yet )

Gentlemen,
Now the first season of my work with the generator is over...
The result is very poor!
I climbed into the very wilderness, without light pollution, and the results were zero...
while connecting to the dacha plot gave good results!
Who can tell you what the reason is?
Maybe the noise from the generator? But especially for this purpose, I bought a 50m extension cable, and it was almost inaudible near the screen...
I don't have any more guesses!
I am waiting for your thoughts!
Thank you in advance!!!

The same mess-there is almost nothing in the wilderness, near populated areas, much better.

There was such a question. Has anyone compared the years on DRL and DRV lamps? Is there a difference? I had a neighbor light a lantern near my dacha all summer 2005, apparently there was a DRL there. And every evening the butterflies flew in a cloud. And in 2006 and 2007, the lantern was no longer there, but I bought a DRV and caught it. It flew normally, but not in the same amount as then on the lantern. The difference was still in the height (the lamp is high, on a telegraph pole). So I think-whether the year was like this, or can forget about DRV and DRL buy?

to okoem

I have the same sadness... For two years now, the neighbor has not turned on the DRL on the pole and has noticeably become impoverished. I catch on the pricked DRL. Apparently, some illumination nearby is still necessary. Especially when the lamp is high on a pole and you have a UV source just above your head.... And more..I read somewhere that, for example, female hawk moth are more likely to fly to a lamp hanging high enough... Apparently you will have to dig in the lighting mast next to it now

Oh, I'm sorry, I didn't explain it correctly!
I wanted to say that in 2005 I did not catch the light at all, and I did not have a lamp yet, but a tall lantern with a DRL was burning nearby and everything was flying at him like a cloud. And in 2006 and 2007 I fished on the DRV, but the lantern was no longer there.

I found a question from Sergeich, a long-standing one:

"Colleagues, can you tell me who used germicidal lamps (from the hospital) to catch the thread, and if so, how successfully. In general, is it worth contacting them?"

What is its essence - its protective cap is divided into 3 parts-the upper one is white, as usual; the middle, it seems to be white too, but more transparent; the bottom is transparent, i.e. passes UV.
I once had a situation when my lamp was covered with a copper basin during transportation, and only this one, a bactericidal 400W, was at hand. Since it is a throttle, which, of course, was not there, I consistently turned on a regular 500W incandescent lamp. As a result, the power was less than 400 watts, and it flew perfectly (I think thanks to the lower transparent part). I compared it later, including the usual 400W DRL in the same way - the bactericidal one works like a trap, better (in my opinion). His face was tanned, though. And yet, unlike the throttle-free one, which can temporarily shut down when the voltage drops, this one just winks and works on.
Here's the story ...

I don't know about you, but my DRL is constantly cut off when I have changes. I even bought a "pilot" already.

cajarc, and the DRL-400 was with a split outer flask?

No

Then omar: I don't have a throttle, but an incandescent lamp instead.
P.S. what happens when the voltage drop occurs when the DRL works with the throttle, I don't remember anymore - it was so long ago that it was the last time. And the throttle-free ones are all cut off.
Here a friend was in the Altai, so he has this lamp (used) generally refused to turn on at least somehow.

No

This is probably the case - on the split, they fly as a powerful source of zh0stky UV. And the face does not tan, but burns

Therefore, I like the option of a bactericidal lamp more

My DRV goes out during changes and I have to turn it off for a couple of minutes to start. But I very rarely have swings.
I don't want to mess with ultraviolet light - my health is more expensive. I once worked as an electric welder for a year, and I haven't liked him since. The skin is still not so scary, but it's a pity for the eyes, glasses (or a welding helmet) are not an option, you'll still get enough somewhere.

But I still want to know if there is a difference when fishing on DRL and DRV.

My DRV goes out during changes and I have to turn it off for a couple of minutes to start. But I very rarely have swings.
I don't want to mess with ultraviolet light - my health is more expensive. I once worked as an electric welder for a year, and I haven't liked him since. The skin is still not so scary, but it's a pity for the eyes, glasses (or a welding helmet) are not an option, you'll still get enough somewhere.

But I still want to find out if there is a difference when fishing on DRL and DRV.

Sunscreen helps. Plus a wide-brimmed hat. And the difference is

But there is a difference

Which one?

On the stab DRL flies stronger-UGH, you know...

As far as I understand okoem, he is not going to prick anything. And he is interested in what is the effectiveness of fishing for DRL (non-pinned) and DRV. Such statistics are interesting when collecting in places that do not really spoil catchers with large fees. DV is not indicative, because there these butterflies "flocks" will fly to both lamps.

I found a question from Sergeich, a long-standing one:

"Colleagues, can you tell me who used germicidal lamps (from the hospital) to catch the thread, and if so, how successfully. In general, is it worth contacting them?"

What is its essence - its protective cap is divided into 3 parts-the upper one is white, as usual; the middle, it seems to be white too, but more transparent; the bottom is transparent, i.e. passes UV.
I once had a situation when my lamp was covered with a copper basin during transportation, and only this one, a bactericidal 400W, was at hand. Since it is a throttle, which, of course, was not there, I consistently turned on a regular 500W incandescent lamp. As a result, the power was less than 400 watts, and it flew perfectly (I think thanks to the lower transparent part). I compared it later, including the usual 400W DRL in the same way - the bactericidal one works like a trap, better (in my opinion). His face was tanned, though. And yet, unlike the throttle-free one, which can temporarily shut down when the voltage drops, this one just winks and works on.
That's the story ...

Maybe I didn't quite make it clear, but I was interested in what is the effectiveness of fishing for a bactericidal lamp used for quartz movement. It is very similar to a regular fluorescent lamp, only there is no phosphor on the inner wall, it is transparent. And its power is from 20 to 40 watts. In your post, neskolko did not catch what kind of lamp you used? If possible, write a label.

Such statistics are interesting when collecting in places that do not really spoil catchers with large fees. DV is not indicative, because there these butterflies "flocks" will fly to both lamps.

I completely agree, no matter how much Ekos and I tried to find out which lamp is the most catchy, it didn't really work out. Flying on both sides and crowds

"Maybe I didn't quite make it clear, but I was interested in what is the effectiveness of fishing for a bactericidal lamp used for quartz movement. It is very similar to a regular fluorescent lamp, only there is no phosphor on the inner wall, it is transparent. And its power is from 20 to 40 watts. In your post, neskolko did not catch what kind of lamp you used? If possible, write the label"

Because I don't have the lamp now - just for memory: it's a lot of years old, it says DRLB400 (on the package it says "bactericidal, for quartz, etc.). I think that then the lamps you mentioned were never there.

Because I don't have the lamp now - just for memory: it's a lot of years old, it says DRLB400 (on the package it says "bactericidal, for quartz, etc.). I think that then the lamps you mentioned were never there.

The marking suggests that this is an internal flask from DRL-400,
converted into a bactericidal lamp

I tried to use bacterecid - nothing flew.. is that a little mosquitoes and 1 mole like..

"The marking suggests that this is an internal flask from DRL-400,
converted into a bactericidal lamp"

And then, most likely, only such products were produced.

On the stab DRL flies stronger-UGH, you know...

I understand. But something else is interesting: who has compared the DRL (whole) thread with the DRV?

I understand. But something else is interesting: who has compared the DRL (whole) thread with the DRV?

I think there will be almost no difference - the proportion of UV radiation is small in both cases, but it will depend on the power, altitude, etc.

I'm also going to buy DRL 250 and throttle! Only now, after reading the entire topic, it became very dumb to work with the DRL! How to protect yourself better (fully meaning-eyes, head, hands, etc.)

Tyomochkin, we smoke this forum thread
If in short - sunscreen on the skin, a wide-brimmed panama hat on the head, do not look at the lamp, just in case-glasses with protection from UF

But it seems to me that you need to fight "greed", and then you won't have to prick the lamp, and all these problems will be avoided.

vo vo.. I did not split and so far there is nothing to regret, since everything is still in place

I have observed that the effect of UV on the skin is largely determined by individual variability. Me DRL-250 split "does not take", sometimes after a night of tingling sensations on the skin of the face, for the day pass. Protective equipment - only glasses with glass lenses (normal, not protective). At the same time, I saw in people who gathered next to me on the same lamp, in the morning strong keratitis and a good "tan". And greed is an even more individual quality.

I have observed that the effect of UV on the skin is largely determined by individual variability.

That's for sure! In our south, this is noticeable even without UV lamps. One of them turns from white to black in a week, and the other one doesn't stick to the tan all summer.
I don't know about greed, but I would like more diversity not in quantity, but in terms of species. The third year I collect the light in my country, most of the species are repeated from year to year. So I think what to do - either try the DRL, or hang my DRV higher somewhere (at what height?). And I don't want to do this, I wrote above already. Especially since I'm not the only one there, I would have to smear cream and put on glasses for all the people around me.

This post was edited by okoem - 24.10.2007 08: 56

From my experience - 1.5 or 2.5 meters - no difference. I didn't raise it any higher, I don't know. DRL, even without a stab, is still somewhat more effective than DRV. But even a non-punctured DRL emits a lot of hard ultraviolet light near (10-15 cm), so if you lean over it for a long time and look at all the little things near the lamp, you can burn your face to blisters. By the way, I have a lamp made in Ukraine.