Features of light catching

Why would fans of "split" DRL not use DRL lamps Blacklight, such as Sylvania HSW or similar. They are relatively low-power (125W), do not emit very hard UV (90% of the radiation power in the range of 350-400nm, peak 365nm), although glasses and skin protection are needed. At the same time, the 125W lamp provides 400mW / sq. m of UV-A at a distance of 1m, which is at least 4 times more than the 26W BLB CFL (Camelion) gives, and 100 times more than the Silvanievsky special lamps for LL T5 BL368 traps give. At the same time, HSWs are not very expensive (~20-25 cu). The service life, however, is much less than that of conventional DRL or CFL, but it is not so small for our purposes (4000h is claimed). There is also a throttle-free analog of the Sylvania HSBW 160W BL E27, but its intensity is almost three times less than that of the HSW 125, while it is twice as expensive, its service life is half as long, and it is more difficult to buy it.

Thank you very much. I'll definitely find out - I've never heard of such things before. I've only used Camellions, but I don't think they're any good

Why would fans of "split" DRL not use DRL lamps Blacklight, such as Sylvania HSW or similar. They are relatively low-power (125W), do not emit very hard UV (90% of the radiation power in the range of 350-400nm, peak 365nm), although glasses and skin protection are needed. At the same time, the 125W lamp provides 400mW / sq. m of UV-A at a distance of 1m, which is at least 4 times more than the 26W BLB CFL (Camelion) gives, and 100 times more than the Silvanievsky special lamps for LL T5 BL368 traps give. At the same time, HSWs are not very expensive (~20-25 cu). The service life, however, is much less than that of conventional DRL or CFL, but it is not so small for our purposes (4000h is claimed). There is also a throttle-free analog of the Sylvania HSBW 160W BL E27, but its intensity is almost three times less than that of the HSW 125, while it is twice as expensive, its service life is half as long, and it is more difficult to buy it.

I don't know what everyone is worried about, I switched to DRV a long time ago, and earlier, I was smart enough to catch a sprinkled DRL250 and even a DRL400, from which, as I realized later, there is no sense, everyone sits down in the grass within a radius of 30 meters! It all depends on the place, time and weather, the rest.... my opinion is DRV, I am satisfied.

Tell me, what is the most efficient lamp that can be connected to a low-power car inverter (12-220v, 150W)? Terrain with no other light sources.

This post was edited by Egor4ick - 05/04/2016 10: 25

I use a Philips BLB 26w power saving nut. And any energy-saving backlight is better for at least 40 W. It flies quite well.

Meanwhile, in the future, fishing for light may become generally ineffective occupation.
At least in places where there is light pollution.

Instead of honestly flying on lamps at night and thereby perpetuating themselves in history and in our collections, cunning "moths" develop behavioral adaptations to avoid light sources

http://naked-science.ru/article/sci/nochny...a-letet-na-svet

Soon, when choosing places to catch light, we will have to first check with these maps...

In principle, a natural phenomenon. True, in Ukraine, they say, there is less light compared to other countries, which is not good for people, but it turns out that it is good for butterflies.

Well, on the map of this Ukraine is very well highlighted. But to the west and northwest of it, a wide dark band stands out: the Baltic States, Belarus, Poland, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, and the countries of the former Yugoslavia. So those other better-lit countries that you are talking about are either further away, in Western Europe, or on the opposite side.

Meanwhile, in the future, fishing for light may become generally ineffective occupation.

Yes, and quite soon, but, as it seems to me, not because of light pollution. This has never bothered me with modern lamps. The full moon is much more critical. The material is interesting, but over millions of years of evolution, insects have so much tied to light that they will still fly, maybe they will have to drive away. But another problem - the signing by developed countries of the convention on limiting and in the near future stopping the production of mercury-containing lamps-may greatly complicate our lives in 2018-2020. Russian lamps will probably not be affected so soon, but our lamps, frankly, are not ice. Sylvania has already reduced the line. LED technologies are not yet developed enough to offer serial sources that are similar in terms of attracting, say, 125-250W DRL, for any reasonable money.

Yes, and quite soon, but, as it seems to me, not because of light pollution. This has never bothered me with modern lamps. The full moon is much more critical. The material is interesting, but over millions of years of evolution, insects have so much tied to light that they will still fly, maybe they will have to drive away. But another problem - the signing by developed countries of the convention on limiting and in the near future stopping the production of mercury-containing lamps-may greatly complicate our lives in 2018-2020. Russian lamps will probably not be affected so soon, but our lamps, frankly, are not ice. Sylvania has already reduced the line. LED technologies are not yet developed enough to offer serial sources that are similar in terms of attracting, say, 125-250W DRL, for any reasonable money.

We will switch to UV-LEDs, especially since they are more economical than others, because in all LEDs, the primary radiation is UV, and energy is lost for re-radiation.

This post was edited by Seneka - 05/20/2016 11: 47

Where does this data come from?

From a specialist. I just believe him, because this is his profile.

We will switch to UV-LEDs, especially since they are more economical than others, because in all LEDs, the primary radiation is UV, and energy is lost for re-radiation.

Rather, this applies to mercury lamps, where most of the primary radiation is in the UV range, and phosphor is used to produce visible light. For the vast majority of LEDs, this is not the case. "Single-color" LEDs (blue, green, red, etc.) emit light in a fairly narrow wavelength range, usually depending on what the semiconductor is made of. There are both UV LEDs and IR LEDs.
There are basically two types of" white " LEDs. In the first type, three or more different monochrome emitters are combined by a single lens, reflector, and housing, and the mixing of their radiation is perceived as white light of different color temperatures (according to the RGB principle, or similar). Since each of the monochrome sources can be adjusted separately, using electronic control units, you can achieve a fairly high color rendering coefficient for LEDs and the desired color temperature, but this is not cheap, and the efficiency is not very high. In the second, cheaper type, the emitter itself is one and is a monochrome, usually blue, LED, but a phosphor film is added to it, and part of the initially "blue" light is converted by this film into "yellow" and "red" light, which when mixed with "blue" also give the effect of white light. This second type is sometimes made on the basis of a UV LED rather than a "blue" one, and this is the only case I know of where primary UV is converted into light of a different wavelength in LEDs. This is rarely used, because UV LEDs themselves do not have high efficiency (blue ones are still the best in this indicator), a lot of energy is lost on the phosphor (by definition, the phosphor re-emits quanta with lower energy values), and the residual UV of the LED does not participate, unlike blue light, in the formation of the visible part of the light flux.

Good afternoon, dear forum participants! To be honest, I haven't read all 68 pages of the topic, but I'm still asking a question. Tell me, is there a way (not necessarily very effective) to use a regular car battery (12V) to attract moths? Which light bulbs should I use? Also automobile ones?
Let me explain the goal. To compile a general description of protected areas, we would like to add 5-10 species of moths to the list of entomofauna.
Should I bother? Thanks!

Good afternoon, dear forum participants! To be honest, I haven't read all 68 pages of the topic, but I'm still asking a question. Tell me, is there a way (not necessarily very effective) to use a regular car battery (12V) to attract moths? Which light bulbs should I use? Also automobile ones?
Let me explain the goal. To compile a general description of protected areas, we would like to add 5-10 species of moths to the list of entomofauna.
Should I bother? Thanks!

For the sake of 5-10 types, it's not worth it. They can be caught during the day with a net by scaring them out of grass, bushes, and trees.

Let me explain the goal. To compile a general description of protected areas, we would like to add 5-10 species of moths to the list of entomofauna.

You can go there at dusk or at night with a flashlight and a net. You will also collect a larger number of species. The net and flashlight weigh less than the battery.

Thanks! ))

Recently I started using the installation with a split drl-250.3 nights shone in Elatma, Ryazan region, powered from the 220V network.2 savings banks and 1 split one were burning.The difference in the arrival of insects, I checked specifically, is indubitable.I noticed that the throttle was heated to a decent temperature, the PVC box was melting, and it smelled like carbolite resin if you didn't turn it off regularly.But everything worked.When traveling to a remote location, I used an autoinverter,1200W working power and 2400maximal.As a result, the DRL did not light up,and the lamp sometimes flashed when the inverter switch was turned on again and again...Question-what can be wrong in the described case, maybe the power to ignite the lamp requires more than 1200W, or replace the throttle,this one burned out during continuous operation, reduce the length of the wire between the lamp and the throttle as much as possible?

I noticed that the throttle was heated to a decent temperature, the PVC box was melting,...
, 1200W working power and 2400maximal.As a result, the DRL did not light up,and the lamp sometimes flashed when the inverter switch was turned on again and again...Question-what can be wrong in the described case, maybe the power to ignite the lamp requires more than 1200W, or replace the throttle,this one burned out during continuous operation, reduce the length of the wire between the lamp and the throttle as much as possible?

My throttle is also warming up. Don't turn it off, let it warm up. Just do not place fusible materials nearby.
What might be wrong is difficult to determine in absentia. It may be that the actual power of the inverter is much less than the declared one. Or the lead wires are too thin. Or the AC shape is far from a sinusoid. It may make sense to add a compensating capacitor to the circuit.
Try connecting the DRL-125. It also flies perfectly.

The inrush current during ignition is not known to me, and the lamp power is in principle small-what is 250, what is 125, the question is a split drl 125 happens?Probably the principle of operation is the same-a high-pressure mercury lamp inside a flask covered with phosphor...A 1200W inverter-freshly purchased, 6300rub, weighs 4 kg, with all methods of protection from everything, screwed specifically to the acc.battery,max. power-2.4 kW...it looks like an antimony device from the future...

The inrush current during ignition is not known to me, and the lamp power is in principle small-what is 250, what is 125, the question is a split drl 125 happens?Probably the principle of operation is the same-a high-pressure mercury lamp inside a flask covered with phosphor...A 1200W inverter-freshly purchased, 6300rub, weighs 4 kg, with all methods of protection from everything, screwed specifically to the acc.battery,max. power-2.4 kW...it looks like an antimony device from the future...

Maybe the battery doesn't pull? IMHO, for a regular car acc. - this is too much for a long-term load. For normal use in the field, such a powerful lamp needs a generator.

This is one of the reasons.Most likely, it is necessary to reassemble the circuit, check the operation from the mains and then switch to power from the inverter and make current measurements, and recommendations for inductive load are not available, although for example, starting a compressor or refrigerator does not differ from starting a lamp and with a refrigerator operating power of 150 W, the starting power is up to 2.4 kW...It's a shame if it turns out that without a generator on the spot, you can't set a stab on fire-the extra 6300rub went from the cash register to the toilet-they don't take it back on the Internet....and a good gene-even 12-15tr, you need to rob someone...

I use the throttle and prick DRL-250 Philips, ignite from a car inverter 2000 watts. Everything works fine for hours, although the car has to work all the time. Maybe you're turning off the car's engine? I tried DRL-400, but my inverter does not pull, it works for about 10 minutes, then turns off. Be careful with the generator, choose more powerful software. My Kippor 770 watt pricked DRL-250 does not pull, but with a non-pricked one it works fine. Keep in mind that the power needs to be calculated by adding the lamp power and throttle power, and now I realized from experience that the power requirements for a pricked DRL are increasing.

The engine is running,and the lamp flashes when the toggle switch is turned on,I will go through the entire circuit, reduce the length of the wire to the lamp and try to somehow reduce unnecessary losses-but apparently 1200W is not enough, I need to find out...

The engine is running,and the lamp flashes when the toggle switch is turned on,I will go through the entire circuit, reduce the length of the wire to the lamp and try to somehow reduce unnecessary losses-but apparently 1200W is not enough, I need to find out...

Most likely, the matter is in the stuffing of the inverter. Something is missing in it that does not allow you to light the DRL connected through the external throttle. The DRV lamp of similar power is most likely lit by it.

By the way, advice to those who connect via an inverter, you need to monitor the cleanliness of the car radiator. It should be thoroughly cleaned at least once every two years under a high-pressure jet. Otherwise, constant overheating can lead to sad consequences in the heating system and the car engine.

The idea itself is not bad, but there are a couple of "buts":
1) for lamps with a power of more than 100 W, the plastic cartridge is short-lived and even dangerous when the lamp is heated;
2) there is no protective cover against precipitation and sealing the input, and in case of unexpected precipitation or dew, the whole structure is quite dangerous;
3) for connecting DRL with an independent throttle, the wire is better flexible rubberized KG type with a cross section of 2x1, 5 and sealing of all inputs. The more flexible the wire, the less contact problems there are with regular use. It is better not to take the throttle itself far from the base of the rack, but to protect it from dew and precipitation, cover it with a ventilated casing (I use a canister made of dense polyethylene with a cut-off bottom and cutouts in the walls from below for ventilation, 10 centimeters more than the throttle for each of the measurements, put together with the throttle on a spacer made of laminated plywood or boards with a thickness of 4-5cm).
I recommend using the base of the cheapest NP-2 type lamp instead of the bakelite cartridge (removing the ceiling and protective grille). It is metal with a suspension eye and a hermetic lead, which is additionally sealed by pouring sealant. The cartridge is ceramic. On the base, you can make a cap from a plastic bowl of a suitable size, which is fixed with an existing washer on the hermovod.
I sometimes use a similar design, but instead of a rod, I use a three-section duralumin handle from a fishing podsak with an M8 socket on top and a corresponding stray hook-bracket (the rest of the time it is used as a crown net handle or a mowing net, up to 2.45 m long). It is much tougher, but, of course, shorter than the rod. Since it is muffled from the bottom by a handle, instead of a pointed stick, I use a screw plastic holder (for picnic umbrellas, etc.), which is screwed into the soil and has a hole on top with a screw and a gasket for installing the rod.

Thank you very much! I'll take it into consideration.
1.I haven't noticed it yet. We need to take a closer look. I always burn DRL / DRV 125 W in a plastic cartridge - so far everything seems fine.
2. There is a sealing of the input-the wire input is filled with "liquid nails". There is never a protective ceiling anyway - I mostly use lamps on the Czech Ento Sphynx screen, and you can hardly attach a ceiling lamp to it.

The idea itself is not bad, but there are a couple of "buts":
1) for lamps with a power of more than 100 W, the plastic cartridge is short-lived and even dangerous when the lamp is heated;
2) there is no protective cover against precipitation and sealing the input, and in case of unexpected precipitation or dew, the whole structure is quite dangerous;
3) for connecting DRL with an independent throttle, the wire is better flexible rubberized KG type with a cross section of 2x1, 5 and sealing of all inputs. The more flexible the wire, the less contact problems there are with regular use. It is better not to take the throttle itself far from the base of the rack, but to protect it from dew and precipitation, cover it with a ventilated casing (I use a canister made of dense polyethylene with a cut-off bottom and cutouts in the walls from below for ventilation, 10 centimeters more than the throttle for each of the measurements, put together with the throttle on a spacer made of laminated plywood or boards with a thickness of 4-5cm).
I recommend using the base of the cheapest NP-2 type lamp instead of the bakelite cartridge (removing the ceiling and protective grille). It is metal with a suspension eye and a hermetic lead, which is additionally sealed by pouring sealant. The cartridge is ceramic. On the base, you can make a cap from a plastic bowl of a suitable size, which is fixed with an existing washer on the hermovod.
I sometimes use a similar design, but instead of a rod, I use a three-section duralumin handle from a fishing podsak with an M8 socket on top and a corresponding stray hook-bracket (the rest of the time it is used as a crown net handle or a mowing net, up to 2.45 m long). It is much tougher, but, of course, shorter than the rod. Since it is muffled from the bottom by a handle, instead of a pointed stick, I use a screw plastic holder (for picnic umbrellas, etc.), which is screwed into the soil and has a hole on top with a screw and a gasket for installing the rod.

By the way, advice to those who connect via an inverter, you need to monitor the cleanliness of the car radiator. It should be thoroughly cleaned at least once every two years under a high-pressure jet.

Only with pressure it is better not to overdo it, otherwise you can bend the "honeycomb" of the radiator.

And how does the inverter affect the contamination of the car radiator???

And how does the inverter affect the contamination of the car radiator???

The radiator is polluted by frequent driving on dirt roads, long grass, etc. dirt, dust, plant pollen and dead insects are clogged into its cells. And if when driving a dirty radiator is somehow blown by headwind currents, then when catching on the inverter, the car and its engine work standing still for a long time.

Well that's understandable) I thought the inverter itself was somehow affected. And in this regard, we can say that everyone who moves off the asphalt at least once a week should clean it.

We connected DRV-125, the main thing is not to stick anything else into the inverter, when trying to charge the phone, the lamp went out - and so everything works

We connected DRV-125, the main thing is not to stick anything else into the inverter, when trying to charge the phone, the lamp went out - and everything works like this

First you need to connect the charger, then the lamp, and both of them should work.

Good afternoon.
Tell me where you can read about morals and how you can manage the insects that come into the world.
This is my second night hunting trip. My task is to transfer an insect from the screen to some more successful place, take beautiful photos (as far as I can), and then let it go. The problem befell me at the stage of transplantation, okay, with the scoops that sleep, you can still somehow cope, but the same sickle-wings or moth-flies do not accept such a thing, taking pictures on the screen is extremely unethical,and you can't work with the light without an assistant.

You can use a stain with ethyl acetate.
If you hold the butterfly in the stain exactly until it is immobilized and immediately remove it, then even a small moth, not to mention scoops and larger raznousyh, will "wake up" in 10-15 minutes, and after 20-30 minutes it will calmly fly further. While she "wakes up", you can shoot.

Good afternoon.
Tell me where you can read about morals and how you can manage the insects that come into the world.
This is my second night hunting trip. My task is to transfer an insect from the screen to some more successful place, take beautiful photos (as far as I can), and then let it go. The problem befell me at the stage of transplantation, okay, with the scoops that sleep, you can still somehow cope, but the same sickle-wings or moth-flies do not accept such a thing, taking pictures on the screen is extremely unethical,and you can't work with the light without an assistant.

Dear forum participants,
Please tell me a beginner in the issue of lighting. In the first three photos, the UV BLB lamp is 26 W., and different screens depending on which the brightness of the visible spectrum changes. In the fourth photo, a fluorescent lamp with a black bulb - Feron Feron, 18W T8 G13, FLU10 and a screen of dense agrofibre with a piece of cotton cloth hung on it. The screen is almost invisible (not to mention the white window sill) and x / w glows. Question. Does the brightness of the visible spectrum matter or not? As I understand it, if the screen glows, then it reflects UV, and when it is dark, on the contrary, it absorbs? Or not?

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No, of course not. If a material under UV exposure begins to glow brightly in the visible spectrum, this is fluorescence. What is its albedo in the UV range can be understood only by seeing / measuring the UV in some way. What looks black in the visible spectrum may well reflect UV strongly, and vice versa. I think, in your case, it is better to take all three screens for a test catch (at least on the balcony) and just see which one will fly more. After all, insects are attracted not only to UV, but also to visible light, and what is the optimal balance for each species in this case is unknown.

Thank you for your participation! I just started working on the comparison method, but the weather has deteriorated. I noticed that it flies better on any of the screens if I first turned on the 80 W split DRL for 40 minutes and then the blue turntable. So after switching off the DRL in 10-15 minutes, Catocala promissa flew in for the second time nupta. I want to try a black tube UV lamp 18 W.

If you are not afraid of a stab DRL, why do you need BLB at all? Count during breaks with the usual white energy saving card - your eyes will say "thank you". For catocalories, no lamps are needed at all, the brew steers by a very large margin.