Keeping and breeding butterflies

Hello, Roman!
If it is not difficult, where to write-adesok... I think there will be something to exchange.

Colleagues, I will be happy to buy peacock pupae
from 2 dozen pieces (the question is the price) and maybe more from each
type of your list.
There is also an interest in bears and hawkmoth.

what types are needed?

Colleagues, I will be happy to buy peacock pupae
from 2 dozen pieces (the question is the price) and maybe more from each
type of your list.
There is also an interest in bears and hawkmoth.

I can offer pupae of more than 30 species of higher moth species (Saturnia, hawk moth and bramea). Please contact us. Discounts for large orders. All material is F0-F1.

ICQ: 218688280
e-mail: daph@list.ru

This post was edited by Hemaris - 05/23/2008 11: 18

I caught this caterpillar today in the morning, in the rain, on the asphalt.
The length is about 3 centimeters.

question:
please tell me, is it possible to grow a butterfly out of a caterpillar in my case? how to keep a caterpillar, what to feed(I won't find a rotten stump at home))??

Thank you in advance for your answer(s))

The post was edited by metallman.92 - 23.05.2008 14:18

generally drevotochets odorous, as far as I know, krasotelya is ground beetles...

oh..... this is a glitch)))mix up...sorry, I was in a hurry))

a jar of dirt and a soaked loaf of bread, depending on what he chooses. If the caterpillar is not very large, it can devour bread, if it is an adult, it will bury itself in the ground and relatively soon it will come out with a babko.

The caterpillar pupates not in the ground, but in wood, biting into it and making a rather long move. To exit the butterfly, most likely, you will need to freeze the pupa. The caterpillar is 3 cm long and still very small, it still needs to grow and grow

As a child, I collected them in winter (January-February) in stumps, brought them home, where I put them in an aquarium with a piece of wood from the same tree from which I collected them. After some time, the caterpillar itself bit into the wood, pupated, and then the butterfly came out. In the first photo, just a butterfly (straightened), to the right of it - the upper part of the pupa shell. The second photo shows an adult caterpillar at the end of summer, going for the winter (looking for a tree for pupation).

Pictures:

20031013_1.jpg — (22.83к)


20060821_01.jpg — (62.65к)

"For the butterfly to come out, it will most likely require freezing the pupa."

The caterpillar ALWAYS overwinters, which immediately pupates after wintering.

"For the release of the butterfly, most likely, freezing of the pupa will be required."
The caterpillar ALWAYS hibernates, which immediately pupates after wintering.

Yes, of course! My blunderer Himself wrote below that he collected caterpillars in the winter, which then pupated

I've heard that this animal can be suckled with apples. cool probably looks, "wormy apple"=)

Has anyone brought out other woodworms from the forum? Z. piryna, for example?

In August last year, I brought home two caterpillars from different places. I put it in the refrigerator in the lower section "for vegetables". I have all the bait for fishing there: worms, maggots, bloodworms-all in boxes. The bottom of the section is covered with a cotton cloth. This is my section and no one climbs tudy! They chewed up the cigarette packets in which they were sitting and crawled under the rag. The cobwebs spun and fell silent. Well, I think they'll pupate and hatch in the spring. Nifiga. In March, I put on a marathon. Sitting under a rag! I rolled them together with a rag, put them in a 3-liter jar, sprinkled earth and a large piece of raw sphagnum on top. Put it in the room.
Yesterday, already falling asleep, one o'clock in the morning, quiet, dark, buzzing and fluttering of wings...
I ask my wife, who brought Maisky home? He says you said not to bring it, and the window was closed. I get up and turn on the light... A butterfly crawls on the moss in the jar.
I don't have one in my collection. I made it out in the morning, it's already drying on the straightener...
The second wusen died, found a corpse under the moss. Buried it.
So, your observations and conclusions, dear colleagues, are quite realistic.

I found a healthy adult caterpillar in the spring, and once in the winter in the stump, too. I put it in a jar with earth - it was buried and pupated, why:
once we went for a walk with Trofim in the spring, he found a newly hatched odorous woodworm that came out of the ground.
The caterpillar itself was found on the ground.
+ to everything. In some literature, they found a note long ago that the woodworm can be bred in the crumb of white bread. Once we found several caterpillars in the wood, some larger, some smaller. A friend put caterpillars on the advice from the literature and gave out woodworms.

Breeding generally consists of several cycles:
1. Egg production,
2. Growing caterpillars,
3.Creating conditions for pupae and breeding butterflies,
4.Mating of adults,
as well as wintering is one of the important, and sometimes difficult, links in the cycle.

You can get eggs from butterflies in small cages. For most types, 5-liter transparent plastic mineral water bottles are suitable.
Take a 5-liter plastic bottle, cut off the bottom, turn it over - the cage is ready. Cover the top with a sieve. Place the forage plant inside the cage, passing the stems through the neck and dropping them into a jar of water. On a sieve it is necessary to put twice a day cotton wool moistened with a 10% solution of fructose or honey-nutrition. Fructose is a fruit sugar that is sold in supermarkets and grocery stores. (and change 2-3 times a day for fresh ones!). It is also advisable to spray the entire cage with water from a spray bottle and force-feed the butterflies in the evenings - see the part about manual mating. Put all this household equipment in the sun - they will not be carried in the shade. For pigeons-caudates and podaliriya, it is necessary to put a plant growing in a tub or pot in the cage. Parnassius (but not all) and moths do not need a food plant in the cage. You can simply hang strips of paper inside the cage.

Eggs for breeding should be kept in a closed petri dish (or something like that) with a napkin on the bottom and a leaf of the feed plant. Change the napkin and leaf daily so that they don't get moldy.
For Parnassius, the technology is somewhat different.
With Apollo and other scavengers, the method is simple. Take plastic containers (first the smallest jars) from under margarine "Rama" or similar (now there are all sorts of plastic containers for food on sale), put a napkin and a sprig of a feed plant on the bottom. A very good plant for the entire APOLLO group is Sedum telephium, but you can use any other plant that is readily eaten by caterpillars (they must grow at the same time), for example, I feed all Sedum caucasicum, because it grows in abundance in the surrounding area, and in terms of biomass it is almost like telephium. You can use Radiola rosea, Sedum telephium, Sedum album from the available ones. First, you need to use young twigs with tender leaves - it will be easier for the caterpillars to eat. The stalk can be wrapped with cotton wool soaked in water, and wrapped on top with a piece of plastic bag (only food!) and tie it with a thread - so that the water does not flow out. So the plant will last fresh longer. It is advisable to change the food daily, especially at the first age. Put strips of black paper in the container (you can wrap packs of photo paper) - caterpillars like to warm up on it and grow faster. Above the container, put an incandescent lamp of about 20-40 watts at a distance of about 20 cm. That's all. You don't need to put water in the cage - the caterpillars will drown. Put the croutons (eggs) directly in the container.
If the caterpillars do not come out of the eggs well after wintering, then they can be slightly stimulated by placing the eggs in a container under a lamp on a wet (but without puddles, so as not to drown) napkin: heat, light and humidity changes stimulate the exit. Parnassians in general instantly come out of the eggs as soon as they get into the heat. This is one of the snags of their wintering season.

At the first 2 instars, the caterpillars of most butterfly species are kept in closed containers with ventilation, napkins on the bottom and twigs of a food plant, which are changed daily.
In general, it is best to feed butterfly caterpillars on live plants in pots, and you can also make a sieve bag and put it on the branches of a feed plant right in the garden, and put caterpillars inside the bag. Tie the bag tightly so that ants, spiders and other predators do not eat the caterpillars.
It is possible on bouquets placed in water, but some species will die at the same time from excess water in the leaves, while it is necessary to tightly seal the neck of the bubble or cans so that the caterpillars do not get there and do not sink. Do not put the caterpillars in the open sun in closed cages!

Pupae should be kept in a mesh cage, periodically sprayed from a spray bottle. Hatching butterflies will crawl out on the walls and ceiling of the cage and spread their wings. They dry in butterflies in different ways-depending on the size, from 2 to 12 hours.

Sailboats and saturnii can be paired manually - they have an open general apparatus.
Saturnias don't feed. therefore, it is easier to work with them, but for sailboats, the technology is the same.
The male should be prepared in the cage for 3-4 days. The cage can be an ordinary aquarium, covered from the inside with gauze or tulle (to make it easier to crawl). Warm them with a lamp and feed them well with a 5-10% solution of fructose or honey. To do this, a bowl with a moistened cotton wool of fructose solution is placed in the cage (change daily). It would also be good to feed them additionally, holding the wings and carefully unwinding the proboscis with a pin, submerging it in a drop of solution. Hungry butterflies begin to greedily drink it at the same time. Males should be actively flying and ripe for mating, while females should be as fresh as possible. A female who has lived for 2-3 days may already be unsuitable for mating. Although, if you keep females in the refrigerator at +4C and light humidity, they can remain "suitable" for mating for 2 weeks. Parnassus females are the fastest to fail, while swallowtails and polyxenes last longer. When mating, the male and female are joined by the genitals, while the male's valvae and uncus should be wide open, and then close on the female's abdomen. The male freezes and hangs on to the female. If the couple does not want to mate, then after 2-3 attempts it is necessary to give them a rest. Try changing pairs.
After mating (which in swallowtails and polyxenes lasts 1-2 hours, and in Parnassus almost half a day), the female is put in a cage with fresh food plants, which is placed in the sun or under a lamp. The female must eat well so that her eggs mature. Feed in the same way as males before mating. Most Parnassians do not need a forage plant for laying eggs - they throw them anywhere. For polyxena, you need kirkazon, for swallowtail-dill, fennel and other umbrella plants. Males can be mated again (after a 2-3-day break and feeding), but the percentage of fertilized eggs will decrease. Females need a place to flutter, otherwise the eggs will not mature normally.
The most convenient species for breeding and mating are swallowtail and polyxena.

Wintering pupae and eggs can be carried out in the refrigerator, caterpillars are better in nature.
You can overwinter eggs and pupae in the refrigerator, at -5C (+4-0C is enough for pupae). For this purpose, a freezer is suitable, in which it is not lower than-10C. It is necessary to remove eggs for wintering in October. At first, keep them at +10+7C for 1.5-2 weeks, then the same amount at +5-0C, and only then you can take them to minus. According to the same scheme, but on the contrary, withdraw from wintering. You can put eggs in a plastic tube from under the juice, plugging it with cotton wool. But the best way is in clay baked tubes, tightened with a grid on both sides, the tubes are placed in a plastic container with ventilation and a double bottom. Under falshdno put wet moss-sphagnum. About once every two weeks, the moss is checked and wetted as needed. At the same time, you need to make sure that the eggs do not get into the heat.
Pupae are placed on a layer of moist (not wet) peat or moss-sphagnum, on a napkin inside a plastic container with ventilation. Check the humidity every two weeks.
You can also overwinter eggs and caterpillars in nature. To do this, in the garden, in the shade of the house on the north side, where the snow lies for a long time, a hole about 50 cm deep is torn out. It should be filled up to half with expanded clay or broken bricks in order to avoid getting wet. Put the eggs in a clay baked pot (you can use a flower pot). Tighten it with a fine sieve so that eggs or hatched caterpillars do not get out of the pot (caterpillars easily hatch during thaws). The pot is placed on expanded clay with a sieve sideways. The top of the pit is covered with boards so that moisture does not get inside the pit. When snow falls, you can sprinkle it on top. The main thing is that mold does not get started, so there should be ventilation. According to this scheme, you can overwinter any caterpillars, even pigeons of the 1st age. The scheme in the garden is good because there are no problems with power outages, as in the refrigerator. Plus ventilation is better. Personally, I advise you to divide the eggs into two equal batches, and overwinter according to these two schemes.

Satyrs can be grown (and eggs obtained) on lawn grass sown in pots.

Can you feed a red-tailed fir with spruce?

Recently pupated caterpillar Arctia caja, when to expect a butterfly?) And since last year there are two pupae of a large harpy, too, I can't wait to get out... Will they be released soon or wait another year?)

"Can you feed the red-tailed fir with spruce?"

And conduct an experiment? In fact, if it is C. abietis, then it is in the North-West. they only eat Christmas trees.

"Recently pupated caterpillar Arctia caja, when to expect a butterfly?) And since last year there are two pupae of a large harpy, too, I can't wait to get out... Will they be released soon or wait another year?)"
1 part - 2 weeks later-2.5
2 part-they can die (I usually did, although there were usually no delays).

Tell me how to grow Cossus Cossus at home. Found recently - 8 cm. How to feed a treetop (odorous treetop)?

http://www.macrolepidoptera.ru/info/110#110

It seems to have pupated in sawdust, you can't look carefully - it weaves sawdust into the cocoon, but it's a pity to slow down )). I wonder how old she is before she hatches.

What is known about attempts to breed hawkmoth pine and bindweed?

I've never bred butterflies, but I love all kinds of animals, and today I saw a crowd of caterpillars, medium fluffy, crawling across the road. About 20 cars were crushed, so I went back to the place as soon as possible and collected those who hadn't been crushed yet. I literally had to fight off one of the forest red ants, which were trying to cope with the prey with five of them. I dragged the ants away, the caterpillar was cheerful, but then somehow it fell down. The others have traveled around the bank for a long time, and then hung on its different walls and do not show signs of life. (However, when I pulled one out to take a picture, it showed that it was quite alive).
I post a photo and ask you to help me: who knows what kind of animals they are? Which one of them will hatch? (I think it's a Peacock's eye ) Do I need to give them something to eat and what is better, and finally, what should I do in general to help them to be reborn, rather than put them down ?
(I did not dare to let go to the site, because we have a lot of ants and birds)..
I stuffed herbs and raspberry leaves into the jar.

This post was edited by Rafia - 14.07.2008 01: 18

Pictures:
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  DSC03853.JPG — (92.18к) 13.07.2008 — 27.07.2008
  DSC03855.JPG — (373.22к) 13.07.2008 — 27.07.2008

daytime peacock eye they want to pupate. don't bother them.

Is there anything you can do to help them? Do you need to maintain humidity somehow, change the leaves? etc.? You don't need food anymore?
The one I beat off from the ants-will she die? Or is there a chance?

It is desirable that in the place where you planted them, there is plenty of space so that the butterflies can spread their wings.

One seems to have died-it's lying upside down with its paws . The rest were glued to the top of the jar. I still don't understand - do I need to spray them or do something else?
Thank you to those who answered - I hope that with your help, the new seven beauties will come to the world!

I wouldn't do anything. Just don't disturb them and that's it.

It's amazing how quickly they pupate! Literally 30-40 seconds and the whole caterpillar is covered with a green shroud. It's a pity that you can't shoot a video through the jar! Five are already hanging, green ones!
You can still ask a few stupid questions - they can not be "outweighed" after pupation? The fact is that I have them in a 3-liter jar and it seems to me that it will be too crowded for them to spread their wings there! Therefore, the idea arose to transplant them, if possible, into a terrarium (empty)... I read somewhere about sticking pupae on "moment"
The second question - all pupae, when pupated, threw back a piece of "priests", about 3 mm long, these pieces are lying at the bottom! But one failed and a piece hangs above it, in the place where the pupa is attached to the ceiling! Will it not hurt her, or is it better to separate it?
And finally , how much time will they spend in this guise? Somewhere it says 2 weeks, somewhere three... ?

You don't need to separate anything. a piece of popa is the skin of a caterpillar. It is impossible to predict how many days they will be in the pupal phase. This is about the same as predicting the date of birth. They won't be cramped. The main thing is that the butterfly has the opportunity to hang down its back, you need a rough surface so that it can cling to it with its paws.

Yes, they are not easier to touch, but if possible, create something next to the pupa that the hatched butterfly could safely cling to and hang upside down without any problems to spread its wings.I can't remember how much time they need.But you wait and you will have seven beautiful peacock eyes!By the way, they winter in the adult state so you can safely let them go free.And these caterpillars prefer hops or nettles.and they also like to move everywhere in droves.

Yes, I want to release them right away, but not here, but outside the city, in nature! That's partly why I was worried about the jar - because then they would have to live in it for a day-moving! And what can you think of for seven pupae in such a small container?

I don't know,if only nezhalko, you can break the jar with a gentle hammer, then the pupae on the pieces of glass will turn out, there is already freedom of action!shit for God's sake be careful, so that the pupae do not crumple!

No, I won't risk that..

Well, then stick a couple of branches in the jar and wait.let's hope that the butterflies themselves will climb exactly where it will be more convenient for them.

I only grow butterflies from pupae (tropics, en masse), and some of our own butterflies-which is interesting-I'll be happy to share information.

So I urgently need one answer to the question:
butterfly.Kiev offers to hang pupae of the tropics on the slats, tying the end of the abdomen. I saw on the site on one foam "pieces" with holes in the center, where the pupae are inserted, I began to use this method. I also think, isn't it even easier to just put ekukolki on cotton wool and on the bottom of the terrarium? Which method is better and why, YOUR OPINION IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!! Because there is a lot of work and large volumes-now 250 pupae, and then they promise to bring 500 more, and gluing and tying each one to the bar, sorry, is painfully stressful.

And in general, what conditions do you most recommend? While there is 25 heat and 60-80 humidity.

Conditions are good,only 70% humidity, T-27.With styrofoam,it is best to apply on the ground and on the sand in a terarium.The pupa must be motionless and indexed, otherwise 30% of the butterflies will have their wings spread out at the end.I need the eggs of mourner,urticaria, kaya.I have many pieces of polyxene.Thank you.

Greetings to all. With interest I look through all the materials related to the breeding of insects, including butterflies. When he was an employee of the Institute of Plant Protection of the Ministry of Agriculture of the Republic of Kazakhstan, he bred a brown fat bear (Phragmatobia fuliginosa L., Arctiidae, Lepidoptera) in the laboratory. If anyone is not interested, I can share my experience.

Today a miracle happened - green cocoons were hanging in the jar in the morning, and half an hour ago I looked in and saw butterflies!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They hung in different positions and didn't move. I went outside and picked them some leafy twigs and clover-I couldn't find any other flowers that night. And when I opened the jar and began to push it there, it turned out that one was quite strong and flew!!!
The tragedy occurred where it was not expected
She flew into the chandelier and was instantly killed. I still hoped that I would save her when I unscrewed the light bulb, but alas ((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((
The others are sitting in a jar of clover, not yet eager to fly.
I want to release them, but, to be honest, I would like to do it in the country-in nature. Do you think they will spend tomorrow in a jar (wrapped in a black cloth) or will they fight? And then I have to go to work and only then take them to the country!