Features of light catching

Well, how would it have worked without it before? The device is fully equipped and in order.

The described signs indicate unstable operation of the system. First of all, you need to check the output voltage of the generator and its stability under load. Perhaps, at low load (DRL-250 consumes about 1A), the generator voltage floats. m. b., on the contrary, the load is too large. To check, you need to connect a regular analog tester-a voltmeter-to the output. What is the current range at the generator output according to the passport? Theoretically, unstable operation of the throttle+DRL system is possible both when the output voltage is lowered and when the output voltage is too high (the latter is unlikely). But in general, all this is strange if the system worked steadily from the network. It is necessary to carefully read the manual, because in this case, the load is not reactive, but inductive. Here, in general, under certain conditions, depending on the design of the generator, a resonant autogeneration mode may occur. Nonsense, I guess...

But in general, all this is strange if the system worked steadily from the network.

In the network-the sine wave is running. Well, what is there at the output of the generator?

I'll try again. Thank you, gentlemen. A week later. Generator in the country

It seems to me that it is necessary not to steam, but to screw in another lamp. I had a similar situation when working from a network. Monitoring the voltage in the outlet, stripping contacts, etc. did not give results: today it can work normally, and tomorrow it lights up and goes out. When the light bulb was changed, the problem disappeared. True, there was another case when the cord was partially frayed in one place from frequent transportation / twisting and the lamp also burned or not, but this is less likely than the problem of the light bulb. At least I have a good system that works the same way through the generator and through the network.

Yes, I think so too... This year there was such a problem with the DRL400... By the way, I noticed a strange thing - when a lamp works here for example (it doesn't matter 250 or 400), you turn it off, and then turn it on again - it lights up, but dimly, dimly, and does not light up... You put in a new lamp , and everything is fine. And that lamp burns properly again the next night... I've seen this happen more than once... I thought maybe it was because while I was changing the lamp, the throttle was cooling down or something...

As promised, about Nepal.
I took with me DRV lamps of 160 and 250 watts.
I didn't bother with the generator, because there are small villages and hoteliers in the mountains. There were almost no problems with lecturing. But!!! 250 W in the villages cuts down traffic jams completely!!!
I had to catch either on the territory of the hotel at 250, or in other places at 160 watts.
It was mostly bad flying. Only towards the end-more or less.
In terms of variety-well, probably, in spring, it is probably an order of magnitude higher.
It began to get dark at eight o'clock in the evening, under normal conditions it was possible to catch up to 11 pm, since by this time it was raining so hard that it swept away everything in the world. intermittently, the rain continued until 3-4 o'clock in the morning.

There were no" three layers on the screen", but still, I'm happy.

Gentlemen, please consult us. After much hesitation and hesitation, an independent power source was purchased - that is, a Europover Honda generator. When connecting the DRL-250 lamp, the same one that was used when connecting to a regular network, this lamp goes out after a few minutes of operation, then lights up again.

Check if your generator has a "Start/run"switch. The generator must be started in the "Start" mode, and the load is switched on after switching the generator to the "Work" mode. In any case, on my Kipor generator with the Honda engine, this is exactly what happens. If you turn on the lamp in the "start" mode, then exactly what you describe will happen. But the problem may not be in this of course...

Someone tried to catch on LEDs with a glow angle of 90 degrees,the light output
is like 70 cotton wool.They cost $ 10, called super bright, in a diameter of 20mm (plate)
and 6mm thick, lit from 3.5 watts.They are very expensive,I used them at
someone else's expense(I put stops on the bike)I only worked with reds.
By the way, they are produced in Russia.Who can find out, write, or something about them.
I want to try it in my reserve,after reading 14 pages, you can
go crazy!!!!!!!!So it was written that if there are no competing sources
, you can use 20, so there are places where there is a forest on both sides(100-130m
from each other)the nearest light source in 5-7 km and then in 100 watts is an incandescent lamp.

This post was edited by DIMID-09.08.2008 23: 44

I dug up a photo here on Flickr and spent a long time deciding where to put it.
Night, light, the process of fishing is-so in this topic. A group of amateur entomologists was caught in the lens of an amateur photographer. Japan.
Link http://www.flickr.com/photos/troutfactory/229854239/

This post was edited by Morozzz - 08/20/2008 10: 02

Pictures:

229854239_930159f15d_b.jpg — (608.69к)

Gentlemen, please tell me. Here's a vacation, I want to finally catch. The deadline is the first half of September. Is it really possible to catch several dozen types of butterflies in the MO at this time, or is the time no longer flying?
And more. I'll drive you here." Just don't roll around on the floor and forgive my ignorance. Very interested in the operation of direct spreading of the butterfly's wings before placing it under the needles in the rasravilku. This is especially true at night, folding the wings roof-like. How to give the butterfly a standard position on the straightener without damaging the wings or brushing off the scales? This is apparently done with special tweezers? In general, tell us, and. Or send it to another topic. As they say-och. it is necessary.

And more. I'll drive you here." Just don't roll around on the floor and forgive my ignorance. ............
In general, tell us, and. Or send it to another topic. As they say-och. it is necessary.

Learn to use search, Mr. Niko.
http://molbiol.ru/forums/index.php?showtop...hl=spreading out
http://molbiol.ru/forums/index.php?showtop...hl=spreading out

All DRLki after switching off should cool down. If you are in a hurry to turn it on again, you can speed up the cooling process by wiping it, for example, with a damp cloth. More lamps are clearly divided into throttle and throttle-free. The first ones work longer, but it's more convenient for us to have no-browser versions - they have recently become available for sale. If the lamp goes out with the gas generator, the matter is definitely in the gas generator.

Are throttle-free vehicles inferior in terms of power and performance?

in theory, yes.. But this is not fully proven and it is not known for what animals... Sometimes an ordinary light bulb is more attractive..

More lamps are clearly divided into throttle and throttle-free. The first ones work longer,

In what sense do DRLs last longer and why?
Both are capable of shining all night.

Are throttle-free vehicles inferior in terms of power and performance?

Throttle-free (DRV) ones are supposed to have a more yellow glow spectrum. So we should probably give in.

But in practice, I did not notice this concession. In addition, the results of summer during 2 neighboring evenings when the weather is almost the same and everything else can also be very different. They work longer - in general, the lamp life in hours is longer.

and I noticed. when the DRV and DRL work together within a meter of each other the DRV really shines yellow

drv shines more yellow, although when we put them not far from each other with Shastik, it flew almost the same..

So it is that yellowness is not yellowness, the result is the same.

A long time (approximately 15 years) caught on DRL and DRV. I can definitely say that the DRL is much more effective in terms of the total number of incoming butterflies, but a small number of species prefer DRV and more people fly to it than to DRL. But in general, the DRL is certainly better. And the split DRL on which I catch only since the end of last year is even more effective, as it is not sad to admit (the face of course burns, and also some nearby plants).

What don't you say, but a stab DRL alone is significantly more effective. in the spring, I posted DRL and DRV through the house. On DRL-53 May beetles, on DRV-4, specially counted. And what would not burn the face-I use a wide-brimmed hat. No problem at all.

To avoid sunburn on your face (hands), use a sunscreen with a high protection factor (SPF 35 or 40, the more the better)

The most still somehow you can hide, but how to save plants that are bent from UV?

Plants-perhaps that in any way...

The most still somehow you can hide, but how to save plants that are bent from UV?

And you also smear them with sunscreen

And no one has tried to catch them?
http://vitawater.ru/shop/index.php?cPath=231_287

And no one has tried to catch them?
http://vitawater.ru/shop/index.php?cPath=231_287

I catch this in combination with DRV 160 or 400, very satisfied. There is a difference if you use just DRV, as I do, but only in the combination, since in the field from this lamp of light, as from a firefly
If more powerful than 18 W were not so huge in length, I think it would be super, but so, I use one or two 18 W lamps. Try it, I think you won't regret it.
For example, here is a photo of my contruction using this lamp.
     

Pictures:
______________________________________18______2007__2_.jpg — (861.1к) 12.10.2008 — 26.10.2008
______________________________________5______2007__3_.jpg — (168.5 k) 12.10.2008-26.10.2008

And how dangerous / safe is such a lamp for the eyes?

100 % security, believe me. It is also used for other purposes as well. This is only a split DRL no one uses for other purposes

And how can ultraviolet light be safe for the eyes?!

I've been using it for two years and there are no problems. If you can see, the lamp is still covered by the cover from the lamp in which it is inserted, although I removed the cover and so caught, and still no problems. And I catch directly in the vicinity of the lamp. By myself, I can say that there wasn't even any discomfort.

This post was edited by Musson_max - 10/13/2008 22: 04

So the spectrum is wrong

I've been using it for two years and there are no problems. If you can see, the lamp is still covered by the cover from the lamp in which it is inserted, although I removed the cover and so caught, and still no problems. And I catch directly in the vicinity of the lamp. By myself, I can say that there wasn't even any discomfort.

I understand that if there is UV, it causes burns. If there are no burns , then either you have a unique immunity to UV, or the UV spectrum of the lamp is practically absent. By the way, according to the link that swerig gave, your lamp is not visible.

Most likely, the spectrum is not the same in my lamps, I don't know anymore. I write what I really am and don't invent anything. These are most likely special lamps for terrariums. I have it written on the box black UV lamp 18 W, I insert it into the ceiling / wall lamp for fluorescent lamps, that's the whole story. And the flight became really better. What is, is. And then look as you know, it's up to you to decide.

it's just that 250W and 20W are two different things
20 and will not burn, and the composition of the lamps is different.
Naskolkyo understand, drl'ok ultraviolet-there are mainly mercury vapor + a little tungsten, and in luminescent mainly tungsten and maybe something else..

Already 16 pages have been piled up, and did any of the questioners in Terskov-Kolomiyets manage to look at light traps? Here you can read about the influence of the spectral composition of light and the emitter power on the arrival of insects to the trap, the design and main types of light traps (up to electrical circuits, conduits, chokes, etc.), the species composition of insects arriving in the traps, and the influence of wind, air temperature, rain, etc. on the arrival of insects to the trap.
The books are written. to read them; many questions, after reading, would disappear by themselves.

Already 16 pages have been piled up, and did any of the questioners in Terskov-Kolomiyets manage to look at light traps? Here you can read about the influence of the spectral composition of light and the emitter power on the arrival of insects to the trap, the design and main types of light traps (up to electrical circuits, conduits, chokes, etc.), the species composition of insects arriving in the traps, and the influence of wind, air temperature, rain, etc. on the arrival of insects to the trap.
The books are written. to read them; many questions, after reading, would disappear by themselves.

Actually, the book is this one:
Terskov I. A., Kolomiets N. G. Svetovye pitushki i ikh ispol'zovanie v zashchity rasteniy [Light traps and their use in plant protection]. Moscow: 1966. 146 p.

P.S. I don't have it

This post was edited by Bad Den - 10/14/2008 10: 58

2 Ripper: The point is not what is the source of UV, but the point is the characteristic of the UV itself. The split DRL emits UV over the entire range, including hard ultraviolet. The Monsoon Max lamp, if it is really intended for terrariums, has a more balanced spectrum, hard UV rays are practically excluded. Such lamps are designed for long-term stay of animals under them without harm to them. Well, the power is different.

P.S. I don't have it
Should I go to the library" in lomy"?

You are right, there is only one non-renewable resource in a person's life at times-time.