Features of light catching

Well, finally the forum has started working!
I wanted to reply back on the 8th, but since that's the case, I'm writing now.
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  okoem: "Something's not right here. Let the converter with all losses eat even one and a half Amperes - it should still burn for three hours on a fresh battery. The laws of physics have not yet been abolished."


There is such a clever formula that extracts the amount of approximate battery life when using the converter, but not when the engine is running. It is listed in the operating instructions of this device. The formula is as follows:

T = (C x 8,5) / P

where T is the approximate battery/battery life (h)
C is the battery power (Ah)
P is the amount of power consumed (Watt)

Sorry, I posted this idea and deleted it in a couple of minutes, because I realized that I was mistaken, I didn't count correctly, my head doesn't cook well at night .
But since it has already been quoted, I will correct my mistake.
We have a load of 160 watts, and the battery is 12 V 4 A/h. Taking efficiency =100% for simplicity, we get 160/12=13.3 Amps. 4/13. 3 = 0.3 hours (or 18 minutes). This is an ideal option. In reality, the efficiency is always less than a hundred percent, if I'm not mistaken, it is about 70%. This means that the working time will be 18*0.7= 12.6 minutes.
According to the formula you have given, the same 12 minutes also come out.

Well, finally the forum has started working!
I wanted to reply back on the 8th, but since that's the case, I'm writing now.
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Sorry, I posted this idea and deleted it in a couple of minutes, because I realized that I was mistaken, I didn't count correctly, my head doesn't cook well at night .
But since it has already been quoted, I will correct my mistake.
We have a load of 160 watts, and the battery is 12 V 4 A/h. Taking efficiency =100% for simplicity, we get 160/12=13.3 Amps. 4/13. 3 = 0.3 hours (or 18 minutes). This is an ideal option. In reality, the efficiency is always less than a hundred percent, if I'm not mistaken, it is about 70%. This means that the working time will be 18*0.7= 12.6 minutes.
According to the formula you have given, the same 12 minutes also come out.

I understand that this is a comment on my post "accumulator12v+battery+lamp160watt".

Formally, it is calculated correctly, but we must take into account that the car itself consumes quite a bit of energy. Perhaps the reason is still in the low compatibility of these aggregates. They were not originally created for shared use. The power of the lamp is not comparable to the power of the battery, and this is probably why it "burns out" it very quickly.

In summer, fishing can last for hours. For example, from 21: 00 to 3: 00 the next day, or even longer. If the car is rented fine, but not to turn off your own 6 hours in a row is too much.

Why too much? The load on the engine is minuscule (only idle speed), on the suspension - no at all...

Why too much? The load on the engine is minuscule (only idle speed), on the suspension - no at all...

No problem!

Why too much? The load on the engine is minuscule (only idle speed), on the suspension - no at all...

In fact, the load is considerable, an injection-type automobile gasoline engine is not very useful for many hours of work without load. Much has been written about this on motorist forums. generators also have such a thing as a motor resource, i.e. a certain amount of time after which the motor needs to be repaired or replaced. So using a car as a generator that costs tens of thousands of U.S. pupaars is a luxury. Although I regularly do just that...)))))

This post was edited by entomolog - 12/11/2008 07: 35

In fact, the load is considerable, an injection-type automobile gasoline engine is not very useful for many hours of work without load. Much has been written about this on motorist forums.

Can you find out more about where it was discussed, a link? Or why exactly is it harmful?

Formally, it is calculated correctly, but we must take into account that the car itself consumes quite a bit of energy. Perhaps the reason is still in the low compatibility of these aggregates. They were not originally created for shared use. The power of the lamp is not comparable to the power of the battery, and this is probably why it "burns out" it very quickly.

The energy consumed by the converter is taken into account in the calculations.
As for power, I don't recall seeing this term applied to batteries. But in general, I understand the meaning, you are right. Indeed, different batteries are capable of handling different loads. For example, acidic ones can work with a large load (the same starter), and alkaline ones can only work with a small one. That is why car batteries are never alkaline. Also, high-capacity accumulators can generally work with a higher load than low-capacity ones. The characteristic of the battery that determines whether it can operate with a higher or lower load is called "internal resistance". In other words, due to the fact that the above calculations do not take into account the internal resistance of the battery, these calculations can only be correct when working with not too heavy loads.
The reason that the lamp on your accumulator went out much faster than the estimated time is probably because it had too much internal resistance.

The energy consumed by the converter is taken into account in the calculations.
As for power, I don't recall seeing this term applied to batteries. But in general, I understand the meaning, you are right.

Okoem, don't be so strict In everyday speech, you can often hear - "powerful battery".
The main thing is that we understand each other

Can you find out more about where it was discussed, a link? Or why exactly is it harmful?

The critical mode is starting the engine, as well as idling. The idling operation of the oil system is not sufficient for the normal functioning of the engine, and prolonged idling causes negative consequences in the form of increased wear of the rubbing surfaces in the engine due to oil starvation (connecting rod-piston group). Idle mode the most optimal mode of engine operation for wear and tear! In any textbook on the design of internal combustion engines, this is written, since the initial calculation of the engine begins with this parameter. In this mode of operation, the engine generates the right amount of energy to overcome internal friction, in other words, to turn itself and not stall, unlike any other modes.
Shitty candles to boot. And this is a deterioration of sparking, up to misfires in the cylinders. And this is the real trouble, for the neutralizer in the first place.

This post was edited by entomolog - 12.12.2008 22: 48

In this mode of operation, the engine generates the right amount of energy to overcome internal friction, in other words, to turn itself and not stall, unlike any other modes.

Mmm... I probably disagree with this thesis. At XX, almost all attachments start spinning (power steering, air conditioning - if turned on, the generator again). And the speed changes depending on the load (turn on the heated glass-the speed will rise slightly).

This post was edited by Bad Den-12/13/2008 01: 19

Where you can not use DRL, you can successfully catch butterflies on such a lamp (tube)

Where you can not use DRL, you can successfully catch butterflies on such a lamp (tube)

Very interesting! And you can learn more about what kind of tube is this, where to get it (what is it used for in general)? The power supply is 12 Volts, as I understand it?

It's a lightsaber!!

Very interesting! And you can learn more about what kind of tube is this, where to get it (what is it used for in general)? The power supply is 12 Volts, as I understand it?

In the photo, the tube is 15 watts (220 volts) powered via an inverter from a battery (12 volts). The most convenient battery for me is 4.0 a/h.1,7 kg (pictured). There are even smaller batteries, which are better suited to 8-watt tubes.
Tubes can also be "white". There is no difference between "black" and "white". Butterflies fly the same way. I prefer "black" ones, and sometimes I combine them.

I don't know where these tubes are used. Sold in Slovenia. In Hungary, you can only find 8 watt batteries. Much more difficult is the inverter. The cost of the tube is 15, - euro, the inverter is 37, - euro.

Well, an inverter for 15 watts can be found cheaper here... i.e. 300 watt rubles costs 700, I took a kilowatt for 2300r in Moscow.

I saw black pipes in Moscow at some construction market, but I don't know if they are the same or not. And so still in the Germans in the Bioform prodayutsa...

Black ones with a throttle are not a problem to find in Moscow, only they are of a different design, i.e. not 360, but 270 degrees approximately illuminate, but you can change the principle yourself

Until last year, I fished in the field on a bacterocydic 8-wat. the lamp is powered by a 7A / h battery with a self-made small converter, the output of the converter is 220V with a frequency of several kHz(I don't remember how much), the lamp is connected directly to the output( to ignite the lamp, you need, as you know, either a pulse of increased voltage or an increased frequency(here is a different glow mode) or heat the spiral). UV specr is preserved, but the lamp does not burn as brightly, i.e. it consumes less, the battery lasts for a full two nights, the year in the forest and field is good.
As for the inverter, I don't know if there are low-power ones, I tried, in my opinion, a 500-watt one(somewhere lying around), but the efficiency is lousy, from 7A/h battery. 8-wat. , light lasts no more than 3 hours.
In recent years, I still caught two lamps, the previous one+a lamp torn out with a power supply block( a small handkerchief) from the Mustek scanner (I don't remember how to spell it correctly).that there were a lot of broken ones.The 7A/h battery for this lamp was enough for the whole night, it is lit with a voltage of about 800 V, therefore it is afraid of rain.
As for what it flies, then on April 4 in the Polessky nature reserve it turned out such an experimet. From the genkrator burned 160-250 DRV, spaced somewhere 40 meters between them 30 watts bacterocidal without a screen was simply glued to the tree trunk and somewhere on forty meters were attributed to the two above-mentioned battery lamps.On the drv, the age is almost the same( although the female endromis flew to 250), on the UFL, the age was slightly less, but two of the three females of the endromis flew to her and all the nebuculoses.On small lamps from the accumulator only scoops mostly last year's ,a few spadenits and micro, perhaps not enough because there were many bright sources nearby.

This post was edited by svm2 - 23.01.2009 17: 13

and how much less brightly does it burn? maybe it makes sense to power 20 watt tubes like this?

Well, how difficult it is to say , in any case, everything is illuminated around, I once put up a photo.As for 20 watts(in general, bactericidal 15 watts are available, and it makes sense to charge lamps with the UVL spectrum in this way), since the preobrazoatel is homemade . then it is designed for me to output up to 8 watts, i.e. you need to do another one.

It's a lightsaber!!

All right. It's a lightsaber.
Last summer, I put several light traps with such tubes at a distance of several hundred meters from each other. The terrain is hilly, there is a forest and open areas. I catch it myself by the big lamp and go check the traps from time to time. It is necessary to check constantly, because many butterflies settle around the world, but do not go inside the trap. During one of these rounds, I got so carried away crawling in the grass that I forgot about everything in the world. It's not unusual at such times. Suddenly I hear a growl and an unfriendly grunt very close by. Eeeee! I'm on the boar trail, and they need to pass right now. Then everything was like in one cult movie. I have a burning tube in one hand and a battery pack in the other. I wave the lamp around and back up the hill.
I've encountered wild boars many times, but this one is particularly funny.

Anyone who knows what a soldering iron is, but does not know where to get the money to buy a ready-made converter, can independently make a simple converter for connecting economy lamps to the battery (daylight/ultraviolet lamps that are screwed into a regular cartridge.)
Attention! At the output of the converter, a CONSTANT voltage of approximately 300-350 V. It is strictly forbidden to turn on an ordinary incandescent lamp! Burn the converter!

1. Take an old faulty computer power supply
(you can ask a computer repair service)

2. We solder out such details from it:


3. Buy more in the store (or via the Internet) two more transistors + two diodes.
(their total cost is about $ 5 - $ 6)

4. We make a printed circuit board. This is the most dreary stage, however, nothing particularly complicated. Simple "home" technology explained here.

5. We solder all our 15 parts into place, connect the light bulb and battery, and check their performance.

6. We go to nature and catch butterflies.

The entire manufacturing process of the converter is described in detail here. To the author-respect!
TL494 chip, this is the same as KA7500, DBL494, M5T494P, MB3759, KIA494, 1114EU4, any of them can be in the power supply.
The only thing that remains unclear is how high the efficiency of the converter is. Probably, this converter can also work with conventional tubular LDS or UV, but of course, if they are already equipped with a conventional starting device for the ~220V network.
update:
The efficiency of the converter is 85.4%
Tubular LDS from the converter does not work.

This post was edited by okoem - 03/11/2009 15: 49

I understood correctly, with the help of this converter through the battery, you can turn on the usual DRL in the field (if they are designed for 300 V). And the accumulator has some characteristics (they are different)? And how long will it last?

I understood correctly, with the help of this converter through the battery, you can turn on the usual DRL in the field (if they are designed for 300 V). And the accumulator has some characteristics (they are different)? And how long will it last?

No, you misunderstood. Did I mention DRL somewhere?
If you turn on the DRL, either the converter or the DRL will burn out.
There are different types of batteries. The larger the capacity, the longer it will last.
The author reports that with a power consumption of 16 watts, it had a current of 1.4 amps. Thus, the battery capacity of 60 AH should theoretically last for about 43 hours.

I'm leaving for Moscow on February 1. Who can tell you where to find a good UV lamp for night fishing? Very necessary!!!

So then you can use a 15-watt lamp without a drosel. Please forgive me, I never liked physics

Dear forumchane, and how do you like this approach:

http://www.insect.com.ua/product_info.php?...&products_id=45

Poor butterflies

And if you borrow only a 40V UV lamp, and turn off everything else.... probably it will be very cool



the question remains in its use and connection (if without this crap for $ 75)?

This post was edited by Musson_max - 02/01/2009 03: 13

Dear forumchane, and how do you like this approach:
[...]

...does not harm the environment
You can be stunned!

The further I get into the topic of "Insect Exterminators", the more I wonder what insects have done so bad for the producers and buyers of "this"








I'm just shocked, it's.....

Как сказал Классик - "Природу треба міняти і знищувать все, що в ній непотрібно" (с) Лесь Подерв'янський, "Цiкaвi дослiди"

Continuing the topic of the converter for base lamps-econometrics.

I made a printed circuit board, soldered the parts, checked for short circuits, turned on...
Hooray! It's working!

The converter was even cheaper than I expected. A pair of transistors cost only$ 1, and diodes $ 0.3 per pair. And I also decided to put smaller capacitors than those that I removed from the power supply. For this whim, I gave another $ 1.5. I took the rest of the parts from an old faulty computer power supply.
Measurement results under load (20 watt lamp, pictured):
Converter supply voltage 11.7 V
Current consumption 1.89 A
Output voltage 295 V
Lamp consumption current 0.064 A
Total efficiency = 85.4% This is an excellent indicator!
For those who are not friends with electricity and numbers - when connecting such a lamp with a converter to a 60 Ah battery, the operating time will be about 30 hours. Let me also remind you that the brightness of energy-saving lamps is about 5 times higher than incandescent lamps. Thus, the lamp (shown in the photo) has a glow brightness approximately equivalent to a conventional incandescent lamp with a power of 100 watts.

economical lamps are certainly good, but they fly many times worse than on DRV/DRL. I myself started fishing with a 60Ah battery and a purchased 300W inverter + a 75W lamp (it shines like a regular 375 W). Something certainly flies, but not in any comparison with mercury or UV lamps. But when there is no other way out, then you can catch on such a system.

Something certainly flies, but not in any comparison with mercury or UV lamps. But when there is no other way out, then you can catch on such a system.

That's the beauty of this converter, that you can connect to it and the basement UV lamp . Or you can connect both at the same time.
I think that if you take an 8-watt UV + motorcycle battery, then the glow time can last for the whole evening. At the same time, the system turns out to be light and portable. You can take it with you on trips and catch it in any interesting place. Or you can go in the evening to shine a light in the nearest forest. Naturally, it is relevant for those who do not have a personal vehicle to carry a generator with them. But, in general, we need to try how it will show itself in practice, because this is still only theory

But, in general, we need to try how it will show itself in practice, because these are still only theories

Try it and you will be surprised (pleasantly) by the result

This post was edited by barko - 10.02.2009 19: 16

That's the beauty of this converter, that you can connect to it and the basement UV lamp . Or you can connect both at the same time.
I think that if you take an 8-watt UV + motorcycle battery, then the glow time can last for the whole evening. At the same time, the system turns out to be light and portable. You can take it with you on trips and catch it in any interesting place. Or you can go in the evening to shine a light in the nearest forest. Naturally, it is relevant for those who do not have a personal vehicle to carry a generator with them. But, in general, we need to try how it will show itself in practice, because these are still only theories

what do you mean, both at the same time? Parallel or something? Will the preobzamer pull it?
What is the maximum plug-in power?

This post was edited by Sungaya - 10.02.2009 21: 27

and another question - do tubular LDS work from this thing?

what do you mean, both at the same time? Parallel or something? Will the preobzamer pull it?
What is the maximum plug-in power?

1. Yes, both at the same time.
2. The lamps can only be connected in parallel.
3. It will pull. The number of lamps and power are not directly related. For example, instead of the 20-watt lamp that I have in the photo, you can connect two 10-watt lamps or three 7-watt lamps. There is no difference.
4. Here with the maximum power it is difficult to say. In principle, the computer power supply is designed for 250 watts, which means that this maximum capability can also be passed through the converter transformer (ex-power supply). The second limitation is the capability of transistors. To increase the power, you need to put more powerful transistors + fasten the radiator to them. The power of the converter will also be affected by its operating frequency. Given all these factors, it is likely that in practice you can easily get 30-50 Watts, but if you set a goal and experiment, then you can probably raise the power even higher. In short, the question of maximum power is open to me. However, I don't assume the 20 Watt bulb is on, I don't need it anymore.

and another question - do tubular LDS work from this thing?

I think that theoretically they should work. the issue is the correct starter. Industrial starters are designed for alternating current, so I don't think they will work on direct current. Although I do not exclude that there are also suitable starters.
In addition, there are many different schemes for starting up tubular fluorescent lamps on the Internet. I think that something can be selected or adapted - the schemes themselves are based on two or three details.
I have a counter question - does it make sense to do this? After all, there are already basement lamps in the assortment.

PS At the expense of increasing the power - nothing prevents you from making two or three converters. Under each lamp - its own. IMHO, this may turn out to be easier and faster (and cheaper) than experimenting with raising power.

This post was edited by okoem - 02/11/2009 00: 03

tell me pliz, no one used emergency lighting lamps ala "Scat" - rechargeable, in divayse 2 bulbs of 8 watts each? since now I do not have the opportunity to use 250 W-ny lamps, then let me ask you-what is the minimum power of the light bulb should be so that something arrives on it other than mosquitoes, and what can be used in the quality.an energy source in the field, in the absence of a generator, or a ready-made device?it is desirable that you can carry it on yourself in a backpack.

Naturally, it is relevant for those who do not have a personal vehicle to carry a generator with them.

This is also very relevant for light traps!

let me ask you-what is the minimum power of the light bulb should be so that something flew on it other than mosquitoes, and what can be used in the quality.an energy source in the field, in the absence of a generator, or a ready-made device?it is desirable that you can carry it on yourself in a backpack.

Read my posts a bit above. In the field, on yourself-battery + housekeeper lamp.