Features of light catching

Thank you for helping me figure out the problem. Probably really need to buy a new lamp.

There is an option to buy an OSRAM UV lamp like this:



or Camelion.:



For the first on sale so far found 18, 36 and 125 Watts, for the second 26 Watts. What power is optimal in general? For example, if you catch along with the DRL-250?
And how do they connect: via throttle or not?

I wonder if such a lamp (No. 1) is sold in Ukraine? Have you met anyone?
In terms of power, it is more suitable than different tubes.
The activation method is also interesting. There is an assumption that HQV is the same DRL, only with a special filter bulb that cuts off visible light and short-wave UV. Therefore, apparently, a throttle is required?

I wonder if such a lamp (No. 1) is sold in Ukraine? Have you met anyone?
In terms of power, it is more suitable than different tubes.
The activation method is also interesting. There is an assumption that HQV is the same DRL, only with a special filter bulb that cuts off visible light and short-wave UV. Therefore, apparently, a throttle is required?

In Feodosia, it is sold as in the photo, only from a different manufacturer.

Google reports this::

The HQV®, L 18/73 and L 36/73 lamps are long-wavelength ultraviolet irradiators

HQV ® lamps typically operate at 220 VAC. Work is carried out with a throttle.
http://www.lampa28.ru/osram/HQV.htm

In Feodosia, it is sold as in the photo, only from a different manufacturer.

Google reports this::

The HQV®, L 18/73 and L 36/73 lamps are long-wavelength ultraviolet irradiators

HQV ® lamps typically operate at 220 VAC. Work is carried out with a throttle.
http://www.lampa28.ru/osram/HQV.htm

Thank you for using the search. I was interested in practical experience And also the question of what prevents the same lamp from being, for example, 250W. This is exactly what we need! But I found only 400W and with some wild price. Either Google isn't coming, or I am ... Why. own, and asked a question here.

Recently,for the first time in my life, I bought a DRL-250 lamp.In this regard, I have a large number of questions.After reading this forum topic, most of them disappeared by themselves, but something remained:
1)Wire for DRL-250 (0.75 cm diameter) should be single or double, or no difference?And what specific brand (SHVP,or any other, or also no difference)?
2) The plug for connecting to the DRL-250 network with a throttle should be the most common,or is there any special one required for the DRL?
Sorry for the maybe somewhat stupid questions,just dealing with DRL for the first time in my life.Thank you in advance for your answers.

To the question of electrical tapes.

Apparently, everyone is talking about funny colored plastic electrical tapes (classic blue), such electrical tapes are used for temporary isolation of contacts (during installation or so it will not do for themselves) and by schoolchildren for winding on all sorts of garbage so that it is colored and fun.
If it is necessary to isolate something normally, fabric rubber electrical tape is used, it does not dry from time and heat, it does not melt, the tightness and strength of the insulation are much higher, the only drawback is that it sticks to everything and gets dirty.

Recently,for the first time in my life, I bought a DRL-250 lamp.In this regard, I have a large number of questions.After reading this forum topic, most of them disappeared by themselves, but something remained:
1)Wire for DRL-250 (0.75 cm diameter) should be single or double, or no difference?And what specific brand (SHVP,or any other, or also no difference)?
2) The plug for connecting to the DRL-250 network with a throttle should be the most common,or is there any special one required for the DRL?
Sorry for the maybe somewhat stupid questions,just dealing with DRL for the first time in my life.Thank you in advance for your answers.

1. any cable in double insulation with a cross-section (cross-sectional area, it is indicated in the cable brand) of at least 0.5 square millimeters;
2. any plug for connecting to the 220V network. They do not have a current of less than 6A. The choice is yours, depending on the type of outlet to which you need to connect (eurovilka does not fit into every domestic outlet).

Recently,for the first time in my life, I bought a DRL-250 lamp.In this regard, I have a large number of questions.After reading this forum topic, most of them disappeared by themselves, but something remained:
1)Wire for DRL-250 (0.75 cm diameter) should be single or double, or no difference?And what specific brand (SHVP,or any other, or also no difference)?
2) The plug for connecting to the DRL-250 network with a throttle should be the most common,or is there any special one required for the DRL?
Sorry for the maybe somewhat stupid questions,just dealing with DRL for the first time in my life.Thank you in advance for your answers.

1. What do you mean? It is more convenient to use a single one, in which there are 2 insulated cores (from a set of thin copper wires). These two cores are wrapped in a single insulation layer:




2. Do not worry and buy a PVA wire with a regular plug. If you will power the lamp from the home network and if the house has a ground connection, then you can buy a 3-wire wire and a ground choke, then you will protect yourself during the breakdown (the choke will not hit you). But this is a matter of taste.

Most likely, this question was asked many times, but the search for specifics did not give out much....
In general, the DRL400 throttle has an IZU (it seems to be called such a white fenka). So actually, having 2 contacts from the throttle, 2 contacts from the lamp, 2 contacts from the IZU and two contacts of the outlet. how to connect this miracle? There is a sample, but it is not at home((( And we urgently need to test the throttle ((((
Help!

Most likely, this question was asked many times, but the search for specifics did not give out much....
In general, the DRL400 throttle has an IZU (it seems to be called such a white fenka). So actually, having 2 contacts from the throttle, 2 contacts from the lamp, 2 contacts from the IZU and two contacts of the outlet. how to connect this miracle? There is a sample, but it is not at home (((And we urgently need to test the throttle ((((
Help!

First, a search for the combination "IZU connection diagram" gives a lot of links and ready-made diagrams. You can formulate a more sophisticated request. Secondly, for DRL lamps, the connection of the ECU is not required at all, so do not fool yourself with the connection to the throttle of the ECU is required for sodium and similar lamps.
Here, for example, is the link http://www.expertunion.ru/istochniki-sveta...oystva-izu.html

Most likely, this question was asked many times, but the search for specifics did not give out much....
In general, the DRL400 throttle has an IZU (it seems to be called such a white fenka). So actually, having 2 contacts from the throttle, 2 contacts from the lamp, 2 contacts from the IZU and two contacts of the outlet. how to connect this miracle? There is a sample, but it is not at home (((And we urgently need to test the throttle ((((
Help!

Actually, the circuit is right on the throttle...
But just in case on:

EL–lamp, LL-choke, C-capacitor.

Pictures:

lamp_drl_1.gif — (1.42к)

Y-yes, and what can I recommend for a walking trip when there are no large sources of electricity with you and there are no settlements around either? Is an ordinary lantern enough for anything? Or maybe you can even stir up something from the fire?
Anyone who has been in such conditions - please suggest how best to proceed...

Tourist shops sell battery-operated lanterns equipped with fluorescent lamps.

Based on the experience gained during the May holidays, I can say that butterflies fly to the UV lamp, but they practically do not land on the screen. In general, this is all very strange, because these lamps give a soft long-wave ultraviolet. Although maybe he is something butterflies just very exciting. Scoops do not sit down at all, moths occasionally (nothing else but small things and did not fly). The lamp is like this, 26 W:


This post was edited by Dr. Niko - 05/21/2009 21: 04

As for the camping option , there is also a gas lamp option. The spectrum should be similar to an incandescent lamp with a slight shift. One polkiloshny cylinder is enough for up to 10 hours. I.e. in terms of size/weight/price, everything is very attractive. But here's who is flying at it and how... Maybe someone tried the thread?

Based on the experience gained during the May holidays, I can say that butterflies fly to the UV lamp, but they practically do not land on the screen.

The other day for the first time caught in parallel on DRV-250 and housekeeper-UV, 35 Watts. The lamps were located at a distance of about 7 ... 10 m from each other. I can say that the flight to the DRV was clearly better. The SUN also flew, but two or three times less. By the way, the butterflies normally landed on the screen, there were no questions about this. The species composition for both lamps was approximately the same.

I had the following question related to catching the light. The lamp that I hang at the dacha is separated from the forest by a two-meter fence of gray areas. It is about 30 meters away from it. As a result, the lamp can be seen from a small height only at a relatively large distance.
I would really like to know at what altitude most of the butterflies fly at all.
If they saw a lamp from a small height at a great distance, will they fly directly at it, changing the height of the flight, or will they fly at the same height until the fence hides the lamp from them.

 
If they saw a lamp from a small height at a long distance, will they fly directly at it, changing the height of the flight, or will they fly at the same height until the fence hides the lamp from them.

Butterflies don't fly straight to the lamp. Always in a variety of zigzags. Therefore, they will not fly either at a steady altitude or directly at the lamp, although in general they will fly at it. I think that the fence in 30 meters will not interfere with them much.

For Dr. Niko and okoem
, I have a similar observation to Dr. Niko. Starting from the Crimea (early May),
not only were there not enough butterflies flying, they also landed poorly on the screen.
After that, I had three trips to the area. Same picture. Butterflies fly
up and "leave". I have to work a lot with a net.
At the same time, the set of lamps is as always: DRL-250 plus an incandescent lamp (60-100W.).
Since last season, we additionally include UV 40-ku.
(a photo of the screen is in the "Fishing Reports" from 15.05.09, 56 pages.)
Since everything was fine before these observations, I think that it's not the lamps,
but the butterflies. They still have some work to do.
Or "intruders" enchanted the screen and it should be consecrated

I know, I know, dear colleagues, that this is already a painfully hackneyed topic. But it was impossible to read, comprehend, digest and draw grammatical conclusions (although I tried it repeatedly, but was crushed by an avalanche of information). And so I ask you to answer me a number of questions:
1.Do beetles fly well in the light of an ultraviolet lamp (I'll clarify the brand later), so do not confuse them with DRLKS.
2. What lamp can you recommend for collecting beetles

This post was edited by Black Coleopter - 09.07.2009 00: 38

Tell me plz how to catch the light? I already understood about the lamp after reading the forum... What else do you need? Some kind of sheet or something?

Probably, you still did not read the topic "features of fishing in the light" very carefully.There, almost everything related to fishing in the CIS is described.And screens, and power supplies, and lamps.
Of course, you need a lamp(which one, choose in the topic and if possible), a screen (can be a professional stationary or a white sheet) and a power source(network, generator, accumulator)

As far as I've noticed,beetles still fly in smaller numbers than butterflies.And I don't think it's all about the lamps.Such are they, beetles.

Probably, you still did not read the topic "features of fishing in the light" very carefully.There, almost everything related to fishing in the CIS is described.And screens, and power supplies, and lamps.
Of course, you need a lamp(which one, choose in the topic and if possible), a screen (can be a professional stationary or a white sheet) and a power source(network, generator, accumulator)

And where can I get a "professional stationary screen"??? In Ukraine plz who knows!

This post was edited by Yunnat - 13.07.2009 13: 12

And where can I get a "professional stationary screen"???

For example, here:
http://www.entosphinx.cz

http://www.entosphinx.cz/_CZ/foto/Stan.JPG

Should I buy a DRV?Is it much better years compared to a regular incandescent light bulb?(I now catch on the usual 150W.)

Should I buy a DRV?Is it much better years compared to a regular incandescent light bulb?(I'm currently catching on the usual 150W.)

Did you read the topic somewhere?
If we take some average conditions - the middle band of the Russian Federation, July, +15 at night, then the DRV will naturally fly much better than on a conventional incandescent lamp, since the share of UV radiation in its spectrum is greater. Let it be known to you (I hope that you already know) that it is UV radiation that attracts insects, and the harsher it is, that is, the shorter the UV wavelength, the more intense the years.
If you want to increase catchability, use a DRL-arc mercury lamp. The optimal power, as we found out with the guys here , is 250 watts. Lamps of this type should be connected to the network only through a start-up and control device called a throttle. If you can easily get to Moscow, I recommend the shop "Elektromontazh" - there you can buy all the necessary components. And they will tell you about connecting via the throttle if you ask.
Well, there remains the last-extreme-method of fishing-on the split DRL. This is if you need a lot of butterflies. In the DRL, the external bulb is unscrewed or neatly split, and in fact, everything that remains is connected to the network (again through the throttle). but! It is necessary to protect the eyes and skin very carefully, since such a lamp emits very harsh ultraviolet light. It burns grass and flowers.

This post was edited by Dr. Niko - 13.07.2009 17: 59

1. Has anyone collected on DRB-8???
2. Is it worth buying an ultraviolet bactericidal irradiator for 4000 rubles? or is it still better to beat the DRL (to collect BUGS)

P. S. My questions may seem silly to some, but don't get me wrong, the topic of collecting beetles in the light is a stumbling block for me (by the way, like collecting water beetles, but everything is much simpler there)

2. Is it worth buying an ultraviolet bactericidal irradiator for 4000 rubles? or is it still better to beat the DRL (to collect BUGS)

Budget prick DRL-250

It is better not to prick anything, but to feel sorry for yourself, your beloved. Burned eyes and skin are not worth a slight increase in catchability compared to a non-gold lamp.

It's like the proverb: "Don't go into the woods to be afraid of wolves!". For the sake of a good bug, you have to take risks And what to do...

This post was edited by Black Coleopter - 17.07.2009 01: 59

A friend adjusted two UV lamps for a bactericidal radiator, all that is needed for its operation is a 30 W throttle, a friend is an excellent electrician said that the radiation from it will be more powerful than from a pricked DRL, the lamp length is 90 cm, if anyone needs to contact!

I forgot to say, only ode and only in Moscow and the region!

This post was edited by Bolivar - 07/19/2009 23: 20

Sorry for my inexperience but how to decipher DRL and DRV and where in Kiev if anyone knows you can take them?

Sorry for my inexperience but how to decipher DRL and DRV and where in Kiev if anyone knows you can take them?

So ask "DRL-250" in stores will understand, I'm going to look for tomorrow in Kiev

Go to the nearest "Epicenter" and buy a lamp, still more convenient DRV, if you want to add more hard UV, on Kurenevka on the market 8,15 or 30 watts of bactericidal can buy, but here you need to protect your eyes especially from 30 watts(how not to watch out, but you still get a burn from this lamp). I use DRV and put 8 watts in a hundred meters from the battery, less flies there ,but it can be interesting

This post was edited by svm2 - 24.07.2009 08: 13

And all so, for the sake of interest, how do DRL and DRV decipher?

arc mercury lamp(DRL),arc mercury tungsten (DRV)

arc mercury lamp(DRL),arc mercury tungsten (DRV)

DRL is also popularly called a mercury choke lamp, in order to emphasize this technical feature.

Here I bought a DRL-250 lamp, I have a question: Should I protect myself from light on my skin and eyes?

If it is not chipped (i.e. with the outer glass flask preserved), then no special protective equipment is required. "Treat" it as an ordinary but bright lamp: do not look at it during operation and at the most illuminated part of the screen, and it is also advisable to have a cap with a long visor (especially for long-term work). All UV radiation harmful to the eyes and skin appears only after the glass shell is removed. Good luck!