Features of light catching

Guys, as a person who doesn't know much about electrical engineering, but is eager to learn at least the basics of it, I want to know this. How many amperes are suitable from the 250 W throttle to the DRL-250 and what is the operating voltage on the lamp? I ask, because my wiring holds 6 A and 250 V and I'm afraid that when I turn on the whole farm it won't break or burn to hell.

I'm not a specialist in technical specifications. But in the village, the old wiring, which is about 30 years old, pulls everything (by the way, and the DRL400). At first, quite often the same ancient traffic jams flew out. I replaced them - I don't know any problems.

I'm not a specialist in technical specifications. But in the village, the old wiring, which is about 30 years old, pulls everything (by the way, and the DRL400). At first, quite often the same ancient traffic jams flew out. I replaced them - I don't know any problems.

But the postings are different! I mean that at the output of the choke and / or current and / or voltage are different than at the input! And there is a chance that at times!

Postings are different, but I have the oldest and loosest.

This post was edited by Aaata - 04/20/2009 19: 58

Guys, as a person who doesn't know much about electrical engineering, but is eager to learn at least the basics of it, I want to know this. How many amperes are suitable from the 250 W throttle to the DRL-250 and what is the operating voltage on the lamp? I ask, because my wiring holds 6 A and 250 V and I'm afraid that when I turn on the whole farm it won't break or burn to hell.

The entire system is supplied with 220V, the power(250W) is equal to the product of voltage and current and the cosine phi (the angle of phase shift between the voltage and current vectors). If you forget about the throttle (i.e. cos=1), then the current will be 250W/220V=1.14 A
In the case of using DRL with a throttle of 0.73 < cos<1, i.e. the current will not exceed 1.6 A Sleep well with your wiring Just in case I can inform you that the DRL lamp itself should be supplied (after throttle) is about 120V, but you don't need to remember this, you just need to buy the throttle exactly at the right power.

Guys, as a person who doesn't know much about electrical engineering, but is eager to learn at least the basics of it, I want to know this. How many amperes are suitable from the 250 W throttle to the DRL-250 and what is the operating voltage on the lamp? I ask, because my wiring holds 6 A and 250 V and I'm afraid that when I turn on the whole farm it won't break or burn to hell.

And why actually know the current from the lamp to the throttle? or do you use the same wires as in the wiring? 6A is equivalent to 1.3 kW, so 0.25 will definitely withstand....
P.S. and how did you find out what exactly 6A can withstand?

and how did you find out what exactly 6A can withstand?

On the end of the fork, however, it says. This is my opinion on all forks so.

On the end of the fork, however, it says. This is my opinion on all forks so.

The problem is that the old wiring can withstand less than the plug)))
Plugs (and together with them sockets) burn out due to poor contact, even at low currents, for example, if you insert Soviet plugs into a Euro socket.

On the end of the fork, however, it says. This is my opinion on all forks so.

... and on the fuses, like, too.

This post was edited by Aaata - 04/20/2009 23: 29

On the end of the fork, however, it says.

You never know what and where it says

You never know what is written and where

not on the fence, though...

You never know what is written and where

Well, yes, Vladimir, if there is a piece of shit lying on the road and a piece of paper with the inscription "SHIT" next to it, then you will probably say " Hmm. Or maybe it's not true? You never know what they'll write"

If I'm a newbie and you're a professional, then be understanding.

This post was edited by Dr. Niko - 04/20/2009 23: 53

The plug and wiring are still somewhat different things. If the other plug says 10 Amps tomorrow, it doesn't mean the wiring can handle 10.

"Insulation" is "electrical tape", I suppose? If so, will it burn out? The cartridge is not made of ceramic for nothing.

Yes yes yes, this is another reason to ask: what current goes to the lamp from the throttle??? As previously mentioned, the current will not exceed 1.6 A. Well??? I don't know.
And you need to wrap it up with something.

More danger in the other. If the electrical tape goes very low down the ceramic to the lamp, then yes, if it doesn't burn out, it can melt (from the lamp). Therefore, I make it so that my electrical tape reaches less than the middle of the side surface of the base. And the wires that go after the "bifurcation" to the terminals of the cartridge, I do not isolate at all, they already have an insulating winding, and only the very ends are cleaned-inside the plug they are not additionally isolated, besides, they diverge and are separated by a partition.

This post was edited by Aaata - 04/21/2009 01: 12

and only the very ends are cleaned out

Well, that's about it!!! What if it rains? And drops will fall on the live terminals. Great.

Well, that's about it!!! What if it rains? And drops will fall on the live terminals. Great. Why then wrap the cartridge at all???

According to the rules of electrical safety in the rain, you can not catch at all. In any case, care must be taken to ensure that water does not get on the exposed terminals. One way is to wind the insulation on the cartridge.

Cool discussion .
It is desirable that the rain does not fall anywhere at all - usually a canopy is made over the lamp, respectively, all the connecting electrical parts fall under it. And the rain, falling on a hot lamp, can turn it into a "split" one.

This post was edited by cajarc - 04/21/2009 14: 33

how much current goes to the lamp from the choke??? As previously mentioned, the current will not exceed 1.6 A. So???
And you need to wrap it up with something.

That from the throttle, that to the throttle-the current in the entire circuit is naturally the same. On that it and the current Only to the insulation of bare sections of conductors, the current strength has nothing to do.

Wrap - do not wrap-sealing is not directly related to the functions of electrical tape. Water will still leak out to the contacts. Especially if you consider that on a red-hot cartridge, the electrical tape should start to melt and shrink, slide. If not immediately, then over time it will harden from the high temperature, and cracks will appear from temperature changes.
I think that if you need insulation, you can try to cover the contacts with a heat-resistant sealant (sold in auto shops, it costs a penny).
As for fishing in the rain, Yu. I. Budashkin catches daily in any weather. His practice has shown that the DRL breaks down very rarely from rain, about 2 times a year.
Personally, I do not isolate contacts at all, but I still haven't caught them in the rain.

It is often a very good day in the rain. DRL that is chipped or intact does not deteriorate from rain on it. And of course it is necessary to isolate the contacts.

It is often a very good day in the rain. DRL that is chipped or intact does not deteriorate from rain on it. And of course it is necessary to isolate the contacts.

And DRV?

And in the rain super flies!

And in the rain super flies!

Oh, yes! In the rain, something can arrive that normally does not arrive. The biggest hindrance to flying is the wind.

In Borneo, they caught in the rain (normal, not violent tropical). So on my screen for an hour two throttle-free lamps were covered (scattered into pieces).... However, there was a strong wind.

Oh, yes! In the rain, something can arrive that normally does not arrive. The biggest obstacle to flying is the wind.

And the Moon and lanterns

In Borneo, they caught in the rain (normal, not violent tropical). So on my screen for an hour two throttle-free lamps were covered (shattered into pieces).... However, there was a strong wind.

You had a DRV (since it is throttle-free), putting it in the rain is like putting an ordinary incandescent lamp - it will burst, absolutely. A workingDRL lamp does not react to rain in any way, it happened, and repeatedly, that I got it under a downpour "like a bucket" - it would at least have something.

I probably already fucked up with my current, but still. Here's what I was told on an electrical engineering forum:

So, when buying any DRL-400 or 700, take the appropriate wiring. It'll burn up."

Dr. Niko
I finally got it! You want to ask: - Is the cross-section of your wire sufficient to connect a 250-watt load?

Wiring is what is laid in the room from the meter and further to sockets, light bulbs, etc
. The supply wire (cord) is actually a conductor that supplies voltage from the outlet to your lamp, and is characterized by the material(copper, aluminum) and cross-section.
For the wire, the operating current is important, not the starting current. The inrush current lasts for a fraction of a second, during which time nothing will happen to the wire.
Your wire has a cross-section of 0.75 mm, which means it is designed for a current of 13 amps and a load of 2900 Watts. Thus, the cross-section of your wire is more than enough, you can use a thinner one, it costs less and weighs less.
If the operating current is greater than the value for which the wire is designed, then it will be very warm, and if it is too thin, it will generally heat up, but first of all, of course, it will heat up and the insulation will start to melt.

This post was edited by okoem - 04/24/2009 11: 12

  Dr. Niko
I finally got it! You want to ask: - Is the cross-section of your wire sufficient to connect a 250-watt load?

Wiring is what is laid in the room from the meter and further to sockets, light bulbs, etc
. The supply wire (cord) is actually a conductor that supplies voltage from the outlet to your lamp, and is characterized by the material(copper, aluminum) and cross-section.
For the wire, the operating current is important, not the starting current. The inrush current lasts for a fraction of a second, during which time nothing will happen to the wire.
Your wire has a cross-section of 0.75 mm, which means it is designed for a current of 13 amps and a load of 2900 Watts. Thus, the cross-section of your wire is more than enough, you can use a thinner one, it costs less and weighs less.
If the operating current is greater than the value for which the wire is designed, then it will be very warm, and if it is too thin, it will generally heat up, but first of all, of course, it will heat up and the insulation will start to melt.

some strange calculation. If 0.75 is the diameter of the wires, then the cross-sectional area is about 0.4 mm square. For household purposes, with short wires, the maximum operating current can be considered 10A per 1 sq. mm, i.e. for these wires, this current will be 4A. That's enough.
If we are talking about a cross-section of 0.75 square meters. mm, then the maximum operating current will be 7.5 A
, which is also enough.

  
If we are talking about a cross-section of 0.75 square meters. mm, then the maximum operating current will be 7.5 A

About the cross section. I pointed it out.
At the expense of the specific dependence of current and cross-section - it also seemed to me that in the plate on the link, the currents are somewhat overestimated. However, on another site even greater currents were reported. But, in principle, the current can certainly be both higher and lower - but these are more likely questions of losses on the supply wires.

I found a screen for catching light on a foreign website. Since they charge a low-budget price tag, and there is a crisis in the yard, the idea was born to find something cheaper or even make it yourself.
The screen is like this: http://www.leptraps.com/rigs.htm

By thinking and putting a certain object to the nose, I determined for myself that the frame for awnings (tents), with the help of which they trade on the market, will be used as a material. The question (or rather 2 questions) is this - has anyone met anything like this ready-made (meaning the screen) and where can I buy these awnings for markets?

The idea is not bad,but if you make or buy, then 4-way.By the way, in technology, 4-sided is easier and, if desired
ecessary (wind), can be made 2-sided.

What are the advantages of a 4-sided screen? What does it look like?Is it assumed that each side has its own lamp, or is 2 enough? And will the catcher , if he is alone, constantly run around the structure, checking each side?

There were already photos of such Czech-made screens.The lamp is hung alone(a special cutout in the central upper part),or 2. Each side does not need to be illuminated.
Advantages:instead of 1-2 sides of 4, which is already good, the same spectrum of lighting on all sides, simple assembly/disassembly(16 pegs entering one into the other consists of 2 supporting sticks to which the screen itself is attached).Construction size 1.5*1.5*2 which, in principle, is not much,you won't get tired of running, and here's something else-the screen fabric is translucent,you can see what is happening on the opposite and adjacent sides

I bought a DRL 250 lamp, connected it - it burns, but every 20-30 minutes it goes out for about four minutes. Tell me what you need to do to keep it burning all the time.

Is there a choke in the circuit?
If so, the problem is probably with the local power grid. When we were fishing in a remote village, we had to choose whether to turn on the heater or the DRL.

This post was edited by Vabrus - 03.05.2009 21: 06

Is there a choke in the circuit?
If so, the problem is probably with the local power grid. When we were fishing in a remote village, we had to choose whether to turn on the heater or the DRL.

There is a throttle (without it, the lamp does not light up). By the way, I wanted to buy a DRV lamp so as not to worry about the throttle, so the seller in the market sold me DRL under the DRV sign. I found the substitution only at home, when traffic jams began to kick out when I turned on the network.
As for the problems with the network, I had a lamp near my house that was powered directly from the power line with the DRL lamp, so it also periodically went out.
In general, we have problems with the voltage in the village: it does not reach 220W. Maybe the lamp goes out because of this.

If so, the problem is probably with the local power grid.

Or maybe the lamp itself is defective?

Or maybe the lamp itself is defective?

This is exactly how one of the DRL lamps (gradually) failed for me. I sinned on the mains voltage, on the electrical substation, on the contacts, on the wiring, and, of course, on the throttle (and even bought a new one). But everything turned out to be easier - it was enough to replace the light bulb . And the old one still shines in this intermittent mode. In general, when troubleshooting problems, especially with the exception method (i.e., the poke method), you need to start with the simplest and most accessible: replacing a light bulb, checking the plug, socket, etc...

This post was edited by Aaata - 03.05.2009 23: 23

I found the substitution only at home, when traffic jams began to kick out when I turned on the network.

It may very well be that the lamp was damaged during this freelance switching on. Imagine what a surge of current went through it, if it knocked out the traffic jams.

It may very well be that the lamp was damaged during this freelance switching on. Imagine what a surge of current went through it, if it knocked out the traffic jams.

Therefore, it is not easy to replace a lamp of this type (DRL) from the seller: no one knows which network and how (through the throttle or without) You tried to turn it on. Moreover, the seller often does not know anything about the rights of consumers.