Spreading insects

Read the topic "Butterflies in fat"... It's also suitable for beetles.

http://molbiol.ru/forums/index.php?showtopic=408356

in "fairy" - "initial treatment" to remove dirt and top layer of grease. if after mounting the beetle zazhirilsya ( and this happens with all families and out of 50 beetles of the same species, caught and so on at the same time, and so on. one can give fat) then see the topic "butterflies in fat"
but first you need it !Good! straighten-so that the whiskers and legs are in their places and touch the dies, because after degreasing the whiskers and other parts become very fragile and the beetle should be GENTLY transferred to the corresponding die and glued. and if at first the beetle was straightened "crookedly", then its parts may not coincide with the plane and eventually fall off

problem! tell me how to solve it! spreading day butterflies!
I constantly encounter a problem in all families (except thick-headed ones): butterflies of the same species are caught, starved, soaked/fresh, spread out, dried next to each other.... one has normal wings, the other has dropped, the third has the edges up!!! how to fight? please help

And if the beetle is already mounted on the die and it is a little zazhirilsya.
You can just wipe it with a cotton swab with aciton, it seems to me that since aciton is a solvent of oils,fats, it should degrease the surface of the beetle.

For AGG, I recently discussed this issue with my colleagues. In general, it is unclear.
Two people have this problem. I don't have. I don't know if this helps or not, but
I have an ex before installing it. in the straightener, I "develop" the wings a little
with tweezers, very carefully, 2-4 times I lower the wings down to the pin and transferring
the tweezers from below, I raise the wings up to a vertical position, slightly squeezing the body with tweezers. After that, the wings are installed without tension in goriz.
position - and in the straightener...

for scarabaeinae, it will not help very well and will not last very long. It is necessary to"wash" the fats from the entire beetle, sometimes it takes 3-4 days.
Zy-Gy more and more convinced that the pin is more convenient
Additional case: recently I tried to examine the abdomen of a bedbug glued
to a transparent die... I was very nervous...

And if the beetle is already mounted on the die and it is a little zazhirilsya.
You can just wipe it with a cotton swab with aciton, it seems to me that since aciton is a solvent of oils,fats, it should degrease the surface of the beetle.

I wiped, it helps, but very much not for long

Strange, I have something only ground beetles zazhirivayutsya, though specifically so. And the rest of the beetles are worth nothing, not even a hint, although I've never worked with faeries.

I only have copra fattening up, and not all of them. I once rubbed them well with aciton and the fat content did not happen, and again the fat content does not appear.

Well, I have-cossus ' s, burdock, some beetles, ditiskus, lepturus and some more, BUT NONE of my ERECT wings are covered with fat..ugh ugh ugh

And if the beetle is already mounted on the die and it is a little zazhirilsya.
You can just wipe it with a cotton swab with aciton, it seems to me that since aciton is a solvent of oils,fats, it should degrease the surface of the beetle.

That's what I wrote about it: first, you straighten it out, then it gives you fat, you remove it from the die/or send it together to nefras (pure gasoline) depending on the size from 3 days to 2 weeks/or re-soak, and then transfer it to another die.
I zdarovuyu female ditiskusa bathed already 2 times, and with it as with a pig fat drips until now...I will repeat the procedure
, I spread out about 30 sycophants, so one dripped so that there is now a spot on the floor of the box, all the others are fine...do not please..
Egorus
I also do this, and sometimes even more than. in fact, the question is that three simultaneously prepared copies. you'll end up with three different results
and 4 eversman I have all turned out-finally ass

another problem occurred: they gave several ornithopters for distribution. I soak it like normal, but when I start to pull the lane up, it breaks 5 mm from the base of 5 straightened out normally, and 3 is nothing created, I'm afraid to prick with ammonia (dear and not mine) and with a large tweezer "kneaded/developed" in any way. it can risk puncturing or pruning

This post was edited by AGG-05.01.2012 20: 53

for AGG
, I was delayed with the answer, as the topic dropped out...

I've never tried pruning them, but I can also prick them (large ones) this is often...
Moreover, I prick with vodka (palenka), in pairs of which I soak.

for AGG
, I was delayed with the answer, as the topic dropped out...

I've never tried pruning them, but I can also prick them (large ones) this is often...
Moreover, I prick with vodka (palenka), in pairs of which I soak.

and what is the best way to do-urine in the sand (not "on" and "in") on the water. I don't understand how "vodka"can help me-it can only take away moisture at the expense of alcohol, which will further aggravate my situation. at the moment there is no place for experiments what to do if there is no "palenka"? what's wrong with it, or is it just the cheapest option?

Well, first of all, I wrote how I do it. (There is a question, there is an answer.)
This has already been discussed, water or vodka? Naturally, everyone was left with their own opinion.

In my case: I somehow got this vodka by barter, a lot... once I tried
to apply it for soaking... liked....I continue to apply it.

The material does not mold, it turns out soft and mobile, the softening rate is higher.
Perhaps it's the water used to make this particular vodka -
softness/hardness, degree of purification. It is possible in alcohols, which help
to increase the penetration of water into the fabric of the material. Or alcohols contribute
to the dissolution of fats (old fats) in the tissues and joints of the material and, as
a result, improve the mobility of the components....???
Fick knows him...

Well, in the end - alcohol destroys the neurons of the butterfly's brain and it
finally relaxes! (joke)

I am very happy with the parchment from Entomon

P.S. my nickname is not in honor of this store

This post was edited by Entomon - 28.01.2012 21: 44

I clicked it accidentally, I apologize.
I use plastic, which is not electrified, I don't remember where a lot of bags came from, the material is not polyethylene, but something similar.

I clicked it accidentally, I apologize.

No big deal

Who uses glasses, please tell us more. You can often see it in Western photos.

With glass ???

Maybe an offtop, tell me who gets rid of ticks that sometimes remain on the joints of the cephalothorax of beetles( after spreading)?

Maybe an offtop, tell me who gets rid of ticks that sometimes remain on the joints of the cephalothorax of beetles( after spreading)?

Leave an indicative symbiosis.
In general, this is done after soaking. You can also carefully remove it from dry beetles. Use the end of an entomology pin, and then use sharp tweezers.

Maybe an offtop, tell me who gets rid of ticks that sometimes remain on the joints of the cephalothorax of beetles( after spreading)?

I wouldn't take them off, because someone might need them someday.

Maybe an offtop, tell me who gets rid of ticks that sometimes remain on the joints of the cephalothorax of beetles( after spreading)?

Personally, I get rid of it (in dung beetles, ground beetles, dead eaters, little babies...). I remove it when straightening fresh or soaked specimens with tweezers with thin "sponges" and a pin.

IMHO, if you choose from plastic, it is much better to use cellophane sheets of transparent a4 film, designed for printing on a laser printer. It is dense, does not stretch under the needle and everything is visible

With glass ???

Well yeah Pressed down, straightened the corners and dried (there were no pins at hand then). The moth dried without any problems, the scales were not damaged.
But, I repeat, it was an experiment, the material was massive.

Personally, I get rid of it (in dung beetles, ground beetles, dead eaters, little babies...). I remove it when straightening fresh or soaked specimens with tweezers with thin "sponges" and a pin.

Yes, I have the same representatives often meet, most of them fall off when morphing. Yesterday, the Crimean rhino was removed from the straightener, after drying, so I picked with a preporoval needle for half an hour, I still couldn't remove it completely - I was afraid to break it

Yesterday, I removed the Crimean rhino from the straightener, after drying, I picked at it with a preporoval needle for half an hour, but I couldn't remove it completely anyway - I was afraid to break it

Duc, clean before straightening and drying

Maybe an offtop, tell me who gets rid of ticks that sometimes remain on the joints of the cephalothorax of beetles( after spreading)?

Before spreading the beetle, I put it in water. Ticks pop up .

Before spreading the beetle, I put it in water. Ticks pop up .

The phoretic stages of ticks cannot be removed in this way, they are firmly attached - only physically.

Plastic is best, but you can only use the strips twice (the second time by turning the strip over), then you need to change them. The pins leave burrs that can scratch the wings.

When there were no free adjustments, it was necessary to correct them on the speakers. A butterfly is placed between the columns, foil is placed on the wings, books are placed on the foil, and then a butterfly is spread out.

And I think you can glue the elytra together with glue, and then dissolve the glue with gasoline or something else. I think they will hold up normally!

with a ball at the end, it is inconvenient-there is nothing to cling to-it will break. I priparovalnuyu needle made from a collet pencil-och. conveniently. If you are interested, you can cut it off from the ent.needle #1 head and use it instead of a pencil lead. You can also make different attachments( needles with different bends/hooks-according to your needs). Keep the needles in the gifel compartment-inside the pencil.In my model, they stick into the eraser and hide in the case at the end of the pencil. If necessary, I will post a photo

Spread it out, we are interested in everything, with a large number of options, everyone can choose the right one!

with a ball at the end, it is inconvenient-there is nothing to cling to-it will break. I priparovalnuyu needle made from a collet pencil-och. conveniently. If you are interested, you can cut it off from the ent.needle #1 head and use it instead of a pencil lead. You can also make different attachments( needles with different bends/hooks-according to your needs). Keep the needles in the gifel compartment-inside the pencil.In my model, they stick into the eraser and hide in the case at the end of the pencil. If necessary, I'll post a photo

Interesting is not only the photo of your "tools", but also the position of them and hands at the time of straightening.

with a ball at the end, it is inconvenient-there is nothing to cling to-it will break. I priparovalnuyu needle made from a collet pencil-och. conveniently. If you are interested, you can cut it off from the ent.needle #1 head and use it instead of a pencil lead. You can also make different attachments( needles with different bends/hooks-according to your needs). Keep the needles in the gifel compartment-inside the pencil.In my model, they stick into the eraser and hide in the case at the end of the pencil. If necessary, I'll post a photo

I have been using this probe for
five years, very convenient and no punctuation

I have been using this probe
for about five years, it is very convenient and there are no punctures

Is it a probe, or a pencil-based needle?


I'll post a photo the other day

I tried to straighten using a "ball" instead of a needle, the result was not unambiguous, I could not straighten some butterflies without a needle. Please show the whole process and photos of the places where the ball comes into contact with the wing.

I tried to straighten using a "ball" instead of a needle, the result was not unambiguous, I could not straighten some butterflies without a needle. Please show the whole process and photos of the places where the ball comes into contact with the wing.

Obviously, we misunderstood each other - I use a needle, cat.made from a collet pencil. Here:












This post was edited by Bolivar - 24.02.2012 20: 27

describe the technology of spreading lepidoptera under glass if anyone knows how

About a year I spread butterflies under the windows. Moreover, for ease of action when spreading, I use a combined approach.
First, the butterfly wings are covered with strips of plastic from a stationery folder (you need to choose the right folder - there are such whitish - translucent ones. The plastic in them is quite dense on one side, and on the other, after puncturing with pins, there are no burrs on the side adjacent to the wings). I make strips of plastic one for each plane of the straightener and also make incisions in them along, so that when spreading the wings, you can move them with a pin not only at the root, but also where it is convenient. Then the wings are spread out under the plastic, as it is usually done under tracing paper or something else, and first on one side. The plastic is stretched and fixed with two pins (for each butterfly) for the edge that is closer to the groove of the straightener.
Glass. I use 2 mm thick. I have them cut based on the size of the spread butterflies. The glass is placed on top of the plastic tape, moved gently towards the fixing pins, the pins are quietly removed (if this operation is done correctly, the position of the butterfly's wings after spreading will not change) and the glass is moved further to the butterfly's body, thus covering the roots of the wings. Depending on the size of the butterfly, you can place several panes of glass on top of each other. So it will be heavier and the plane of the wings will be better maintained after removing it from the straightener.
Compared to tracing paper, it turns out better. There are no difficulties with drying (in the sense that you can dry as much as usual. I dry for 14 days).